\ 


> 


Shp  i.  H.  HtU  IGibrarg 


5fortl|  (EaroUna  ^tatF  limnerflilg 


K6?. 


NORTH  CAROLINA  STATE  UNIVERSITY  LIRRarip"; 

'I  iiMii|iiii||i|f|ii|iii|iii||ii||im 

I       II    II  'III    I    II   II  J  Ml   !  Ill   II 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  DATE 
INDICATED  BELOW  AND  IS  SUB- 
JECT TO  AN  OVERDUE  FINE  AS 
POSTED  AT  THE  CIRCULATION 
DESK. 


lAPR^^  ^ 


■'yjf  ^ 


.i^ 


"r^w^ 


11984^ 


** 


lOOM/1-77 


Digitized  by  tine  Internet  Arciiive 

in  2009  witii  funding  from 

NCSU  Libraries 


littp://www.arcliive.org/details/kitclienfruitgardOOpliil 


THE 


KITCHEN  AND  FEUIT  GMDENEE. 


A  SELECT  MANUAL 


or 


KITCHEN  GARDENING, 


AN  D 


CULTURE  OF  FRUITS, 

COXTAINING 

FAMILIAR   DIRECTIONS    FOR    THE    MOST    APPROVED 
PRACTICE  IN  EACH  DEPARTMENT, 

DESCRIPTIONS  OF  MAN7  VALUABLE  FRUITS, 

AND 

A  CALENDAP.  OF  V7"0F.K  TO  EE  PEE-FORMED 
EACH  MONTH  IN  THE  YEAR. 

THE  WHOLE  ADAPTED   TO 
THE   CLIMATE   OF   THE  UNITED   STATES. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
LEA    AND    BLANCHARD. 

DiDision  of  Horlicallure, 


Entered,  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1844,  by 

LEA  AND  BLANCHARD, 

in  the  clerk's  office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  in  and 
for  the  Eastern  District  of  Pennsylvania. 


J.  Fagao,  btereotyper. 


J.  &  W.  Kite,  Printers. 

(2) 


'^Jt^i- 


PUBLISHERS'  NOTICE. 


With  a  view  of  improving  the  English  virork, 
from  which  this  has  been  printed,  it  was  placed 
in  the  hands  of  the  same  person  who  so  ably 
revised  the  ''Complete  Florist."  His  additions 
have  been  as  numerous  as  could  be  expected  for 
so  small  and  unpretending  a  volume ;  and  it  is 
now  submitted  with  a  hope  that  it  may  aid  in 
extending  information  on  the  subject  on  which 
it  treats. 

Philadelphia,  June,  1844.  (3) 


INTRODUCTION 

TO   THE  AMERICAN   EDITION. 


Most  persons  who  possess  a  garden,  whether  it  be 
for  flowers,  fruit,  or  kitchen  vegetables,  it  is  probable 
desire  to  hear  the  remarks  of  others,  on  the  best 
mode  of  culture,  provided  the  cost  be  not  dispropor- 
tioned  to  the  information  given ;  but  nearly  a-11  pub- 
lications on  Horticulture  have  been  in  such  expensive 
forms  as  to  confine  the  circulation  to  the  few ;  on  the 
contrary,  the  plain  unpretending  style  which  has  been 
adopted  for  this  work  (a  reprint  from  an  English  pub- 
lication, received  with  favour  at  home,  and  amended 
to  suit  the  climate  of  the  United  States,)  will  enable 
all  who  feel  an  interest  in  the  subject  to  benefit  by  the 
hints  presented,  and  we  hope  it  may  prove  service- 
able to  the  class  of  enquirers  which  it  is  specially 
designed  to  benefit — those  who  from  taste  or  conve- 
nience cultivate  a  plot  of  ground  without  incurring 
the  expense  of  a  regular  gardener. 

The  great  extent  of  territory  in  the  Union,  and 
consequent  diversity  of  climate,  render  it  difficult  to 
specify  periods  for  the  performance  of  work,  which 
shall  apply  equally  throughout  the  country,  for  whilst 
in  the  south  they  may  be  luxuriating  in  the  earlier 
vegetables  of  the  spring,  we  of  the  north  may  still  be 
bound  by  the  frosts  of  winter.  To  overcome  that 
obstacle  as  far  as  practicable,  the  seasons,  not  the 
I*  (5) 


Vl  INTRODUCTION. 

months,  have  been  named  in  the  directions  cm  kitchen 
gardening,  and  it  is  believed  the  exercise  of  a  little 
judgment  will  enable  the  cultivator,  whatever  may 
be  the  latitude  of  his  location,  correctly  to  time  his 
operations.  The  methods  for  performing  the  work 
may  be  the  same  in  all  places — good  modes  apply 
with  equal  benefit  in  every  section. 

A  matter  of  primary  importance  in  kitchen  garden- 
ing, it  must  be  self-evident,  is  the  selection  of  good 
seed;  without  that,  land,  skill,  diligence  are  thrown 
away.  When  the  cultivator  has  occasion  to  purchase 
his  supply,  (which  is  generally  the  case  in  small  gar- 
dens, where  the  produce  of  many  sorts  within  narrow 
limits  would  be  a  heterogenous  mixture)  true  economy 
will  be  found  to  consist  in  procuring  the  best,  even  at 
an  advanced  price  on  the  trashy  seeds,  which  are  fre- 
quently vended.  If  the  question  be  asked  how  are 
the  best  to  be  obtained,  we  answer,  purchase  only 
from  responsible  persons,  and,  so  far  as  practicable, 
from  a  well-known  grower  himself,  or  those  who  re- 
present him  in  the  sale,  and  stake  their  credit  for  the 
quality  of  what  they  vend.  Vast  quantities  of  seed 
are  imported  into  this  country  from  Europe  which 
are  worthless:  the  vitality  of  many  is  seriously  im- 
paired by  the  confined  air  of  the  ship,  others  appear 
to  have  been  the  stale  refuse  of  the  shops,  and  some, 
which  prove  sound,  are  found  to  be  unsuited  to  our 
climate.  There  are  a  few  kinds,  among  them  Cauli- 
flower and  Broccoli,  which  it  may  be  necessary  to 
import;  but,  with  those  exceptions,  it  is  safer  to 
depend  on  seeds  of  American  growth,  but  by  no 
means  on  such  as  are  casually  collected  and  sold  to 


INTRODUCTION.  vfa 

dealers,  to  be  again  vended  without  the  slightest 
knowledge  of  their  age  or  quality.  We  have  else- 
where, in  these  pages,  alluded  to  the  importance  of 
procuring  fruit-trees  from  sources  to  be  relied  on ; 
that  is  even  a  more  serious  consideration  than  the 
purchase  of  seeds,  for  in  the  latter  case,  vexatious  as 
may  be  an  imposition,  one  season's  labour  only  may 
be  lost ;  but  in  fruit  the  imposture  can  in  most  in- 
stances only  be  detected  after  years  of  culture,  and 
anticipation  of  return  for  the  care  and  anxiety 
incurred. 

It  was  the  design  of  the  publishers  to  have  issued 
the  Manual  of  Kitchen  Gardening,  and  the  Fruit- 
Garden,  distinct,  but  they  finally  concluded,  with  a 
view  of  making  it  still  more  acceptable,  to  unite  the 
two,  without  enhancing  the  price.  Another  work 
from  the  same  publishers,  the  Complete  Florist, 
treats  of  ornamental  plants,  and,  with  the  present 
work,  affords  instruction  on  the  several  branches  of 
Gardening,  which  they  hope  may  prove  useful  to  such 
as  feel  an  interest  in  the  subject. 


CONTENTS. 


Preliminary  Observations IS 

Situation  of  ^  Garden 14 

Aspect  of  a  Garden 14 

Comparative  Properties  of  Soil 14 

Variety  and  Properties  of  Manures 15 

Cultivation  of  Kitchen  Vegetables 17 

Artichoke,  (Jerusalem) 18 

Asparagus 18 

Beans,  (tlie  Mazagan,  the  Broad  Windsor,  and   Early 

Long  Pod) 19 

Beans,  (Kidney,  or  Bush — the  Haricot  of  the  French).  20 

Beans,  (Scarlet  Runners) 20 

Lima  Bean 20 

Carolina,  or  Sewee  Bean 21 

Beet 21 

Borecole 21 

Broccoli 21 

Brussels  Sprouts  .  , 22 

Cabbages 22 

Red  Cabbage 23 

Capsicum,  Pepper 24 

Carrots 24 

Cauliflower 25 

Celery 26 

Chives 27 

Corn,  Indian 27 

Corn  Sallad,  Fetticus  or  Lamb's  Lettuce.  .  . , 28 

Cress 28 

Cucumbers * 28 

for  Forcino; ■.  . . .......  .  .  28 

under  Hand-Glasses 29 

Egg  Plant  or  Melongene 30 

Endive 31 

Eschalots 31 

Horse-radish , 32 

(0 


X  CONTENTS. 

Leeks 32 

Lettuce 32 

Melon   33 

To  force  Melons , 34 

Mushrooms 42 

Mustard 44 

Nasturtium 45 

Onions 45 

Okra 46 

Parsneps 46 

Parsley , 47 

Peas 47 

Potatos 50 

Pumpkin 51 

Radishes 51 

Rhubarb • 52 

Salsafy  or  Oyster  Plant 53 

Sr  a  Kale 53 

Spinach 55 

Squash 55 

Tomato  or  Love  Apple 56 

Turnips 66 

PART   SECOND. 

CULTIVATION  OF  CULINARY  HERBS, 

Balm 68 

Bazil,  Sweet 68 

Borage 58 

Camomile 58 

Dill 59 

Fennel 59 

Hyssop , 59 

Lavender  , 59 

Liquorice 59 

M.'i  rjoram 60 

Marigold 60 

Mint 60 

Penny  Royal 61 

Purslane 61 

Kampion 61 


CONTENTS.  XI 

Rape,  or  Colewort 61 

Rosemary 61 

Rue 62 

Sage 62 

Savory 62 

Sorrel 62 

Tarragon,  or  L'Estragon  of  the  French 62 

Thyme 62 

Wormwood * .  63 

PART   THIRD. 

DESTRUCTION  OF  VERMIN  INJURIOUS  TO  CULI- 
NARY CROPS. 

Destruction  of  the  Turnip  or  Cabbage  Fly 64 

Destruction  of  Ants 64 

Destruction  of  the  Aphides 65 

Destruction  of  the  Black  Grub 65 

Destruction  of  Caterpillars 65 

Destruction  of  Mice 66 

Destruction  of  Slugs 66 

Destruction  of  Snails 66 

Destruction  of  the  Rookworm 67 

PART   FOURTH. 

MONTHLY  OPERATIONS  IN  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

January 67 

February 67 

March 67 

April 69 

May 70 

June 71 

July 73 

August 73 

September 73 

October  and  November 74 

December 75 


Xa  CONTENTS. 


THE   FRUIT-GARDEN; 


Apple-Trees , 77 

Pruning 77 

Espalier  Training 79 

Plantinsr 80 

Apricot 85 

The  Barbary 88 

Cherries  .  /. 88 

The  Chestnut 90 

Currants 90 

The  Fig  Tree 91 

Filberts 92 

Gooseberry 92 

Medlars 93 

The  Mulberry 93 

The  Nectarine 94 

Peaches 94 

The  Pear 96 

Plums 102 

Quinces 103 

The  Raspberry 103 

Strawberries 104 

The  Grape  Vine 105 

Walnuts 108 

Grafting  and  Budding 109 

Cleft  Grafting Ill 

Inarching,  or  Grafting  by  Approach 113 

Root  Grafting ,....,,.  114 


THE  MANUAL 


OF 


KITCHEN  GARDENING. 


PRELIMINARY   OBSERVATIONS. 

There  are  a  great  number  of  persons  who  inhabit  the  vicinity 
of  large  towns,  and  resident  throughout  the  country  generally, 
who  possess  the  means  of  cultivating  a  small  garden,  and  who 
would  find  both  health  and  pleasure  in  the  pursuit,  but  who  are 
deterred  from  the  attempt  because,  not  possessing  any  knowledge 
of  the  subject,  they  could  only  do  so  by  employing  a  gardener, 
which  would  not  only  considerably  increase  the  expense,  but  frus- 
trate all  the  advantages  which  would  result  from  a  personal  cul- 
tivation of  the  ground.  It  is  principally  for  the  use  of  such  this 
little  work  is  designed  ;  and,  by  its  assistance,  any  one  before 
unacquainted  with  the  subject  may  safely  undertake  the  manage- 
ment of  a  garden  with  reasonable  hope  of  success. 

The  cultivation  of  culinary  vegetables  is  a  primary  object  with 
many  families  who  possess  a  garden;  and,  therefore,  this  work 
is  exclusively  devoted  to  that  division  of  the  art.  In  two  other 
works,  similar  to  this,  the  art  of  managing  a  Flower  and  Fruit 
Garden  is  described  and  explained. 

Ail  systems  of  gardening  must  be  acted  upon  with  some  dis- 
crimination ;  that  is  to  say,  while  ]>roper  attention  be  paid  to  the 
general  directions  and  rules  laid  down,  allowance  must  be  made 
'for  the  diiference  and  variety  of  soils,  of  situation,  and  of  climate, 
which  require  a  strict  attention  to  the  mode  of  management,  pecu- 
liarly adapted  to  each  ;  and  it  is  the  almost  proverbial  inattention 
to  those  very  important  points,  which  is  the  principal  cause  of  that 
want  of  success  which  proves  often  so  dis(;ouraging  to  the  inex- 
perienced gardener.  The  situation  proper  for  a  garden  cannot  in- 
variably be  selected ;  though,  where  it  can,  it  is  of  no  inconsiderable 
importance,  and  should  be  assiduously  attended  to. 

^  (13) 


gf0SKrr  UBRART 


16  THE    MANUAL    OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING. 

only  notice  those  Avhich  are  considered  the  most  useful ;  and  of 
these,  tlie  dung  of  horses,  if  not  the  best,  is  certainly  the  most 
general  in  use.  Next  to  the  dung  of  horses,  that  of  oxen  and 
cattle  is  in  the  greatest  request,  and,  if  slightly  fermented,  is  an 
excellent  manure  for  light,  hot  soils;  it  is  also  well  calculated  for 
soils  of  a  dry  absorbei.t  nature,  as  it  retains  its  moisture  for  a 
greater  length  of  time  than  most  others.  During  warm  weather  there 
is  a  process  in  action  in  the  manure  heap,  the  effect  of  which  is 
the  abstraction  by  votalization  of  a  valuable  portion  of  the  manure ; 
the  evolution  of  gaseous  ammonia^  which  the  experiments  in  che- 
mistry as  applied  to  agriculture  have  proved  to  be  of  vast  import- 
ance. 

The  strong  affinity  of  this  volatiye  product  for  sulphuric  acid, 
is  well  known,  and  hence  by  incorporating  gypsum  or  plaster  of 
paris,  into  which  this  principle  largely  enters,  with  the  animal 
manure,  we  obtain  a  compound,  without  scent,  and  of  the  most 
important  character  to  the  farmer  and  gardener. 

Green  vegetable  matter  is  an  excellent  manure,  but  less  at 
tended  to  than  it  ought  to  be.  Instead  of  collecting  all  the  weeds, 
useless  vegetables,  &c.  in  a  garden  into  one  heap,  let  the  following 
simple  mode  be  adopted : — When  a  piece  of  ground  is  going  to 
be  dug,  go  round  and  collect  all  the  decaying  vegetables,  and 
immediately  dig  them  in.  The  sweepings  of  grass-walks  and 
lawns  are  also  of  much  use  as  a  vegetable  manure;  and  on  being 
brought  every  day  into  the  garden,  they  should  be  dug  in,  before 
fermentation  commences.  But  it  must  be  observed,  that  they 
should  not  be  buried  at  too  great  a  depth,  otherwise  fermentation 
will  be  prevented  by  compression  and  the  exclusion  of  air. 

Sea-weeds,  where  they  can  be  procured,  make  excellent  manure 
for  most  vegetables,  but  particularly  for  sea-kale,  artichokes,  and 
asparagus.  This  manure,  however,  is  very  transient  in  its  effects, 
and  does  not  last  more  than  for  a  single  crop,  which  is  accounted 
for  by  its  containing  a  large  portion  of  water,  or  the  elements 
thereof. 

The  dung  of  birds,  either  wild  or  domesticated,  afTbrds  a  power- 
ful manure,  particularly  that  of  the  former.  Pigeons'  dung  was  and 
still  is  in  great  repute ;  but  it  should  only  be  used  as  a  compound, 
or,  if  used  as  a  simple  manure,  the  greatest  care  must  be  observed 
in  the  distribution  of  it.  It  has  been  found  to  be  the  best  manure 
for  strawberries  of  any  that  has  been  tried. 

The  dung  of  sheep  and  deer  affords  good  manure,  but  is  seldom 
used  in  gardens.  Soot  is  a  very  powerful  manure,  and  ought  to  be 
used  in  a  dry  state,  and  thrown  on  the  surface  of  the  ground.  It 
has  been  advantageously  used  in  crops  of  onions.  It  is  used  at  all 
times  with  good  effect,  and,  where  it  has  been  used,  no  maggot 
has  appeared. 

The  ashes  of  wood,  if  not  too  much  burnt,  are  considered  to  bo 


THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN   GARDENINO,  17 

a  lasting  manure :  they  are  generally  used  amongst  turnips,  and 
are  supjjosed  to  be  of  use  in  protecting  them  from  the  fly. 

Of  ail  mineral  manures,  lime  is  most  known,  and  generally 
used  :  it  should,  however,  never  be  applied  with  animal  manures, 
unless  they  be  too  rich,  or  for  the  purpose  of  preventing  noxious 
effluvia.     It  is  injurious  when  mixed  with  any  common  dung. 

Manures,  whether  animal  or  mineral,  are  of  such  importance  to 
vegetation,  that  all  possible  diligence  should  be  used  in  the  col- 
lecting and  preparing  of  them  for  the  ditferent  purposes  for  which 
they  may  be  required.  By  a  proper  application  of  them,  and  by 
a  rotation  of  cropping,  founded  on  just  principles,  the  worst  gar- 
den-ground may  be  not  only  improved,  but  rendered  fit  for  the 
production  of  every  vegetable  that  is  usually  cultivated. 

CULTIVATION  OF  KITCHEN  VEGETABLES. 

Artichoke.  —  This  vegetable  is  propagated  either  from  seed  or 
offsets.  If  from  the  seed,  it  should  be  sown  in  rows  a  foot  apart, 
early  in  the  spring,  (middle  of  March)  and  thinned  to  about  the  same 
distance  as  soon  as  they  are  an  inch  high.  They  should  be  kept 
clean  from  weeds,  and  the  ground  about  them  tilled  now  and  then 
during  the  summer,  and  in  the  autumn  they  will  be  large  enough 
to  plant  out,  where  they  are  to  stand  and  to  bear.  They  are  plants 
which  require  a  good  deal  of  room,  and  a  very  rich  soil.  If  pro- 
pagated from  offsets,  the  old  plants  should  be  examined  for  the 
strongest  and  most  healthy,  which  must  be  separated  with  as  much 
root  as  possible.  Some  holes,  about  fifteen  inches  in  diameter,  and 
twelve  inches  deep,  must  then  be  made  at  the  distance  of  about 
three  feet  from  each  other,  with  intervals  of  four  feet  filled  in  with 
good  dung  and  rich  compost.  Two  or  three  of  the  offsets  must  be 
put  into  each  hole,  six  or  eight  inches  asunder,  with  a  few  inches 
of  the  tops  trimmed  off.  Water  them  occasionally,  and  dig  the 
ground  well  between  them.  The  middle  of  spring  (15th  of  April) 
is  favourable  time  for  making  these  plantations,  v.hich  will  yield 
a  crop  in  the  autumn  of  the  same  year.  The  artichoke,  although 
in  appearance  a  very  robust  plant,  is  extremely  susceptible  of 
frost.  Each  clump  or  stool  should  therefore  have  the  earth  drawn 
up  pretty  much  about  it  in  the  fall  of  the  year;  but  in  dry  weather, 
if  possible,  and  in  very  severe  weather,  some  litter  should  be  laid 
on  the  top  of  each  stool,  being  always  taken  off  as  soon  as  the 
frost  is  completely  out  of  the  ground.  In  the  spring,  the  whole 
of  the  gfround  ought  to  be  carefully  du?,  and  the  earth  levelled 
down  from  the  sides  of  the  stools;  the  offsets  should  then  be  taken 
off,  and  the  plants  left  to  produce  their  crop.  The  artichoke  enjoys 
a  deep,  rich  soil,  and  should  be  well  manured  every  second  year  at 
farthest,  but  manure  every  j'ear  is  to  be  preferred.  There  are  two 
sorts, — the  French,  or  oval-headed;  and  the  Globe:  the  latter  is  the 
best.  When  it  is  intended  to  save  the  seed,  some  of  the  earliest 
2* 


18  THE   MANUAL   OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING. 

heads  should  remain  uncut,  which  will  flower  like  a  thistle  in  the 
summer,  and  the  seed  will  be  ripe  in  the  fall.  Gather  il  when 
perfectly  dry,  rub  it  out  of  the  husk,  and  put  it  by  in  a  dry  place, 
where  it  will  be  good  for  three  years  at  least. 

Artichoke  (Jerusalem.)  —  Early  in  the  spring  (middle  of 
March,)  is  the  proper  time  for  planting  the  Jerusalem  Artichoke, 
and,  being  of  a  very  hardy  nature,  it  will  thrive  in  any  situation, 
and  even  in  a  soil  of  an  ordinary  kind.  It  is  not  easily  eradicated 
when  once  introduced  into  a  garden.  The  Jerusalem  Artichoke  is 
propagated  in  the  sam«  manner  as  the  potato,  by  planting  the  bulb 
or  tuber  in  rows  about  a  yard  asunder,  and  nine  or  ten  inches  dis- 
tant from  each  other  in  the  row,  covering  them  with  three  inches 
depth  of  earth.  The  ground  should  be  well  manured  for  them,  and 
no  further  trouble  is  required,  except  to  keep  them  clear  from  weeds, 
and  give  a  lio-ht  difjffinfj  between  the  rows. 

Asparagus. — In  the  making  of  Asparagus  beds,  the  chief  point 
to  be  considered  is  to  make  choice  of  a  proper  soil  :  choose  the 
best  which  the  garden  affords;  it  must  not  be  wet,  nor  too  strong, 
nor  stubborn,  but  such  as  is  moderately  light  and  pliable,  so  that 
it  will  readily  fall  to  pieces  in  digging  or  raking,  and  in  a  situation 
that  enjoys  the  full  sun.  The  ground  intended  for  Asparagus  beds 
should  have  a  large  supply  of  rotten  or  other  good  dung,  laid  sev- 
eral inches  thick  ;  it  should  then  be  regularly  trenched  two  or  three 
feet,  and  the  dung  buried  equally  in  each  trench  as  the  process  goes 
on.  The  ground  being  made  level,  it  should  be  divided  into  beds, 
four  feet  and  a  half  wide,  with  paths  t\\  o  feet  wide  between  bed 
and  bed.  Four  rows  of  Asparagus  should  be  planted  in  each  bed, 
and  ten  or  twelve  inches  distance  to  be  allowed  between  plant  and 
plant  in  the  row,  letting  the  outside  rows  of  each  bed  be  nine  inches 
from  the  edge;  or  they  may  be  planted  only  in  single  rows,  two 
feet  and  a  half  apart,  or  in  narrow  beds  containing  two  rows  of^' 
roots  only.  It  is  of  very  great  importance  for  ensuring  success  in 
the  planting  of  Asparagus  to  lift  the  roots  carefully,  and  to  expose 
them  to  the  air  as  short  a  time  as  possible.  While  planting,  there- 
fore, it  would  be  proper  to  keep  the  roots  in  a  hamper  or  basket 
amongst  a  little  light  earth,  and  covered  with  a  mat.  No  plant 
feels  an  injury  in  the  root  more  keenly  than  Asparagus,  and,  from 
the  brittleness  of  the  roots  when  they  are  once  broken,  they  do  not 
readily  shoot  again. 

The  following  is  the  most  approved  method  of  planting  them  :— 
strain  the  line  parallel  with  the  beds,  nine  inches  from  the  edge; 
then  with  a  spade  cut  out  a  small  trench  or  drill  close  to  the  line 
about  six  inches  deep,  making  that  side  next  the  line  nearly  up- 
right; and  when  one  trench  is  opened,  plant  that,  before  you  open 
another,  placing  the  plants  upright  ten  or  twelve  inches  distant  in 
the  row,  or  the  ground  may  be  drilled  for  the  roots  to  the  depth  of 
four  or  five  inches  with  the  garden  hoe.     The  plants  may  be  placed 


THE   MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN    GARDENING.  19 

flat  in  the  bottom  of  the  trench,  or  nearly  upright  against  the  back 
of  it,  so  that  the  crown  of  the  plants  may  stand  upright,  and  two 
or  three  inches  helow  the  surface  of  the  ground  :  let  them  be  all 
placed  an  equal  depth,  spreading  their  roots  somewhat  regularly 
against  the  back  of  the  trench,  at  the  same  time  drawing  a  little 
earth  up  against  them  with  the  hand  as  you  place  them,  in  order 
to  fix  the  plants  in  their  due  position,  till  the  whole  be  planted. 
Wlien  one  row  is  planted,  draw  the  earth  immediately  with  a  rake 
into  the  drill  over  the  plants,  and  open  another  drill  or  trench  as 
before  directed.  When  they  are  all  planted,  let  the  surface  of  the 
beds  be  raked  smooth,  and  clean  them  from  stones. 

The  Asparagus  being  planted,  the  next  care  is,  when  the  plants 
come  up,  which  will  be  about  the  latter  end  of  the  spring,  suppo- 
sing the  plantation  to  have  been  made  early  in  the  spring  (middle 
of  March)  or  the  previous  autumn,  which  is  a  good  time,  if  the 
soil  be  light,  to  keep  them  clear  from  weeds,  which  must  be  well 
attended  to  during  the  summer.  It  will  be  three  years  from  the 
time  of  planting  before  the  Asparagus  plants  pre  duce  buds  large 
enough  to  be  cut  for  use,  though  sometimes  in  good  ground,  a  few 
of  the  largest  may  be  cut  the  second  year  after  planting,  which, 
Ivowever,  is  by  no  means  advised,  as  it  greatly  weakens  the  plants 
and  retards  their  growth. 

In  making  new  plantations,  instead  of  forming  the  beds  with 
plants,  the  seeds  may  be  sown  at  once  in  the  beds;  by  this  prac- 
tice, the  plants  are  not  disturbed  by  being  removed,  and  conse- 
quently produce  more  regular  crops.  When  the  plants  are  about 
six  inches  high,  they  must  be  thinned,  leaving  the  strongest  about 
nine  or  ten  inches  apart.  During  the  first  season,  keep  them  clear 
of  weeds,  as  they  will  be  very  tender,  and  easily  hurt  by  them. 
In  about  three  3'ears  after  sowing,  a  few  buds  may  be  cut:  the 
fourth  or  fifth  year  the  buds  will  be  both  stronger  and  more  abun- 
dant. 

Beans  (the  Mazagan,  the  Broad  Windsor,  and  Early  Long 
Pod.) — The  best  soil  for  these  varieties,  is  a  stiff,  heavy  loam,  and 
the  time  for  sowing  is  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  weather  will 
admit.  Unless  they  blossom  before  the  heat  of  summer,  the  yield 
will  not  compensate  the  trouble  of  planting.  For  five  rows,  each 
five  yards  long,  one  pint  of  seed  will  be  enough  in  early  sowings, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  more  for  late  sowings.  The  best  sorts  are 
the  Mazagan,  and  Early  Long  Pod.  The  Broad  Windsor,  though 
in  sonie  respects  preferable  for  the  table,  is  not  so  certain  a  crop, 
and  unless  in  cool  climates,  or  when  planted  very  early  in  the 
spring,  seldom  makes  return  for  the  trouble.  When  sown  in  drills, 
they  should  be  exactly  similar  to  those  for  the  dwarf  kind  of  peas, 
with  subsequent  similar  diggino-s  and  hoeings,  but  they  will  not 
require  so  much  earthing  up.  When  a  crop  of  Beans  is  intended 
to  be  produced  between  the  rows  of  cabbages  or  kale,  it  will  be 
found  to  be  more  convenient  to  sow  the  seed  in  beds  on  a  warm 


'20  THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN    GARDENING. 

border,  and  plant  them  in  the  required  situation  by  a  dibble,  when 
they  are  about  tw  o  inches  high.  They  should  be  liberally  watered 
at  the  time  of  planting,  as  well  as  on  any  subsequent  occasion, 
when  they  may  require  it.  It  is  a  very  profitable  plan  to  plant 
rows  of  beans  at  four  or  five  feet  distant,  and  place  cabbages  or 
other  crops  between  them.  When  the  plants  are  just  coming  into 
bloom,  the  dolphin  or  black  fly  commits  frightful  ravages,  if  not 
timely  checked.  Tlie  best  remedy  is  cutting  off  the  parts  with  a 
pair  of  scissors  ;  but  even  when  the  dolphin  does  not  appear,  it  is 
advisable  to  take  about  an  inch  from  the  top  of  each  bean  plant, 
which  will  prevent  them  growing  any  higher,  and  exhausting  their 
strength  to  no  purpose.  This  should  be  done  just  as  the  f.rst 
blossoms  are  beginning  to  fade.  It  is  not  profitable  in  a  small 
garden  to  save  this  seed. 

Beans  (Kidney,  or  Bush — The  Haricot  of  the  French.) — A 
light  rich  soil  is  almost  indispensable  for  French  Beans ;  and  to 
have  them  in  perfection  it  will  be  necessary  to  open  trenches  about 
four  inches  deep,  to  dig  in  some  good  manure,  to  draw  back  the 
earth  over  it,  and  to  open  drills  with  the  hoe  two  and  a  half  inches 
deep.  The  time  for  sowing  is  from  the  middle  of  spring  (15th 
April,)  to  close  of  summer,  (20th  Aug.)  If  sown  earlier,  without 
protection,  the  frost  will  almost  inevitably  destroy  the  young  plants  ; 
they  may,  however,  be  sov^'n  in  a  sheltered  seed-bed,  and  planted 
out  when  the  frost  is  past,  which  will  expedite  the  crop.  For  an 
early  crop,  the  best  sort  is  the  Six  Weeks  ;  for  the  next,  the  China 
Red-eye,  Red-speckled  Valentine,  Brown  Valentine  or  Refugee. 

Beans  (Scarlet  Runners). — This  kind  of  Bean  may  be  planted 
in  any  soil  which  is  not  too  damp,  three  or  four  inches  asunder, 
along  the  bottom  of  a  wall,  and  trained  to  strong  junk  or  pack- 
thread ;  or  they  may  be  planted  in  the  open  ground,  at  a  distance 
of  from  four  to  six  feet  between  the  drills,  and  trained  to  poles 
eight  or  ten  feet  high,  or  along  the  two  sides  of  a  path,  with  sticks 
seven  feet  high,  bent  over  so  as  to  form  an  arch. 

For  four  rows,  four  yards  long  each,  half  a  pint  of  seed  is  enough  : 
the  seed  should  be  planted  about  the  middle  of  spring;  or  if  the 
weather  be  cool  and  wet,  defer  it  till  the  close,  (1st  May)  in  drills 
two  inches  deep,  covering  them  with  the  same  quantity  of  earth, 
and  observing  to  sow  them  in  double  rows  when  the  situation  is 
exposed.  It  is  advisable  that  the  rows  should  run  from  north  to 
south,  in  order  that  they  may  be  duly  exposed  to  light.  This  bean, 
though  very  profitable  in  England,  is  not  of  much  value  here,  as 
in  dry,  warm  summers,  the  blossoms  drop  prematurely  without 
setting  fruit.  Snails  and  slugs  must  be  carefully  guarded  against 
when  the  plants  are  young.  The  best  way  is  to  search  for  them 
very  early  in  the  morning,  and  likewise  to  scatter  quick-lime  on 
the  ground. 

The  Lima  Bean  is  a  delicate  variety,  and  requires  care  in  start- 


THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN   GARDENING.  21 

ing  it  in  spring.  It  is  useless  to  attempt  forcing  it  in  advance  of 
warm  weather;  and  thougli  some  practice  sprouting  the  beans  in  a 
hot-hed,  and  transplanting  them  to  the  hills  in  which  they  are  to 
grow,  but  little  is  gained  thereby.  If  there  be  any  advantage,  it 
is  simply  in  securing  the  vegetation  of  the  seed,  which,  when 
planted  in  the  open  air,  is  not  unfrequently  destroyed  by  a  cold 
damp  spell  of  weather. 

The  made  of  cullure,  is  to  form  hills  slightly  elevated,  in  which 
a  liberal  quantity  of  w'ell  decomposed  manure  has  been  incorpo- 
rated ;  in  these  hills  half  a  dozen  beans  are  planted  to  secure  a  suf- 
ficiency ;  but  three  vines  at  most,  in  each  hill,  should  stand;  at 
the  time  of  forming  the  hills,  or  subsequently  as  may  be  most  con- 
venient, insert  securely  a  stout  pole  nine  or  ten  feet  in  height,  to 
which  assist  the  vine  in  its  efforts  to  adhere ;  when  it  has  got  firm 
hold  it  will  take  care  of  itself.  But  little  culture  can  be  given  this 
crop,  further  than  to  keep  down  weeds. 

The  Carolina  or  Seivee  Bean  resembles,  the  Lima,  but  is  not  so 
large  ;  it  is,  however,  more  hardy,  and  bears  abundantly. 

Beet. — The  seed  for  an  early  crop,  should  be  sown  early  in 
spring,  (15th  March)  though  they  are  then  sometimes  destroyed 
by  frost,  and  the  labour  has  to  be  repeated  ;  for  the  main  autumn 
and  winter  supply,  sow  at  any  time  until  early  in  summer,  (^Oth 
June)  on  deep,  rich  and  well-manured  ground,  in  drills  at  eighteen 
inches  asunder,  and  eight  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  Tvvo  or  three 
seeds  sho\ild  be  put  in  each  place,  and  about  half  an  inch  deep. 
The  rows  should  then  be  trodden  firmh',  if  the  ground  be  dry,  and, 
when  the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  the  weakest  should 
be  drawn,  leaving  but  one  remaining  in  each  space.  In  the  autumn, 
on  the  approach  of  frost,  (15th  Oct.)  the  roots  should  be  taken  up, 
the  leaves  cut  off  within  a  quarter  of  an  inch  of  the  crown,  and 
then  put  away  in  some  dry  place,  or  packed  in  sand  like  carrots, 
for  winter  use.  Beets  may  be  transplanted,  and  will  under  that 
management  attain  to  a  very  good  size.  They  should  remain  in 
the  seed-bed  till  about  the  size  of  a  radish,  and  be  put  immediately 
into  very  fine  earth,  although  they  will  not  be  as  free  from  fibres 
as  those  that  are  left  to  stand  where  they  are  sowed. 

Borecole. — Sow  the  seed  in  the  middle  of  spring,  (15th  April) 
like  other  cabbage  seed ;  let  the  plants  be  set  in  a  rich,  well-ma- 
nured soil,  at  intervals  of  two  or  two  and  a  half  feet  by  eighteen 
or  twenty  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  to  be  earthed  up  as  they  rise. 
This  applies  to  the  uprigrht  varieties;  the  dwarf  kinds  are  usually 
sown  early  in  autumn  (13th  Sept.)  either  in  drills  or  broad  cast, 
and  protected  during  winter  by  straw,  cedar  brush,  or  any  cover- 
ing which  will  lay  lightly.  It  is  in  use  as  greens  during  the  win- 
ter, and  in  the  spring  until  it  shoots,  w'hen  it  is  no  longer  good. 

Bboccoli. — ^There  are  three  or  four  varieties  or  kinds  of  Broccoli, 


22  THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN    GARDENING. 

the  purple,  the  white,  the  sulphur  and  the  green.  The  time  for 
sowing  is  the  middle  of  spring,  (15th  April)  and  they  maybe 
transpTanted  about  the  middle  of  summer,  (20th  July)  or  a  portion 
may  be  put  out  rather  earlier,  and  thus  a  succession  secured.  The 
Broccoli  nearly  resembles  the  Cauliflower  in  flavour,  and  the  white 
variety  is  scarcely  distin^ruishable  from  it,  by  an  ordinary  obser- 
ver; but  the  purple  cape,  is  the  more  certain  in  this  climate;  when 
managed,  as  herein  described,  they  commence  heading  early  in 
autumn,  and  in  favourable  seasons  a  regular  supply  may  be  had 
until  early  in  winter. 

Brussels  Sprouts. — This  plant  rises  up  with  a  very  long  stem, 
which  has  a  spreading  open  head  at  the  top,  but  which  sends  out 
from  its  sides  great  numbers  of  little  cabbages,  each  being  of  the 
bulk  of  a  large  walnut.  The  large  leaves  are  broken  down  in 
order  to  give  the  little  cabbages  room  to  grow ;  and  in  the  autumn 
these  begin  to  be  in  perfection,  and  continue  to  be  an  excellent 
vegetable  throughout  the  winter.  The  time  of  sowing  the  seed  is 
the  middle  of  spring  (15th  of  April).  The  treatment  of  the  plants 
until  planted  out,  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  cabbage,  and  the  dis- 
tance at  which  the  plants  ought  to  stand,  the  same  as  those  men- 
tioned for  the  Broccoli.  Mnch  care  is  required  in  the  saving  of  the 
seed  of  this  plant;  to  effect  which,  the  crown  should  be  cut  oflf, 
and  the  seed  stems  and  flowers  allowed  to  come  out  nowhere,  but 
from  the  little  cabbages  themselves.  It  is  most  likely  owing  to 
negligence  in  this  respect,  that  we  hardly  ever  see  such  a  thing  as 
real  Brussels  Sprouts. 

Cabbages. — Cabbages  will  thrive  well  in  any  richlj'-mamired 
soil,  provided  it  be  not  too  dry.  A  deep  mellow  loam  is  better 
suited  to  them,  than  a  sandy  or  gravelly  one.  The  time  for  sowing 
the  seed  is  very  important,  and  should  be  regulated  according  to 
the  time  the  crop  is  wanted.  For  an  early  summer  crop,  the  sow- 
ing should  be  made  early  in  autumn  (15th  September).  The  beds 
should  be  raked  smoothly,  and  beaten  well  with  the  back  of  the 
spade,  or  trodden  dow-n  when  the  soil  is  dry  and  friable.  It  will 
be  found  to  be  of  great  advantage  to  strew  some  soot  over  the  beds 
when  sown,  or  when  the  plants  have  come  up. 

On  the  approach  of  winter  weather,  they  should  be  dibbled  in  as 
thickly  as  they  can  stand,  in  a  cold  frame  or  box,  provided  with  a 
cover,  which  may  be  removed  at  pleasure,  and  which  should  be 
raised  every  day  or  two,  during  clear  weather,  to  admit  light  and 
air.  It  will  be  advisable  to  examine  closely  from  time  to  time  to 
guard  against  the  depredations  of  moles  and  mice,  which  some- 
times mfike  great  havoc  among  them  ;  early  in  the  spring  (15th 
of  March)  they  should  be  transplanted  to  the  compartment  of  the 
garden  designed  for  them.  "When  transplanting,  particular  care 
should  be  taken  not  to  break  the  roots,  and  to  have  as  much  earth 
as  possible  attached  to  them.     Always  cut  off  the  extremities  or 


THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN   GARDENING,  23 

tails  of  the  roots,  that  is,  the  lono^  tapering  root  that  descends  from 
the  centre  of  the  stem  perpendicularly  into  the  soil,  as  this  opera- 
tion will  increase  and  facilitate  the  formation  of  librous  roots.  At 
the  time  of  performing  the  operation  of  p licking  out  the  plants, 
they  should  be  sorted,  so  as  to  collect  all  those  of  the  same  size 
together  ;  otherwise,  when  afterwards  planted  out,  the  crop  will 
come  in  irregularly,  for  the  larger  plants  will  always  be  ready  for 
use  before  the  smaller  ones. 

The  better  kinds  for  the  early  crops  are  the  Large  Early  York, 
Landreth's  Large  York,  and  Sugar-loaf.  The  Bullock-heart  is  a 
superior  variety,  but  from  being  exceedingly  tender  is  kept  with 
difficulty  through  the  w inter.  There  are  many  other  early  sorts 
scarcely  distinguishable,  except  by  name,  but  the  above  are  the  more 
desirable.  x^ 

If  from  any  cause  a  supply  of  plants  were  not  obtained  in  au- 
tumn, the  crop  may  be  advanced  by  sowing  the  seed  in  a  hot-bed, 
at  the  close  of  winter,  or  very  early  in  the  spring  (1st  March);  for 
the  formation  and  management  of  which  see  page  31;  but  if  that 
expense  and  trouble  be  inexpedient,  a  few^  plants  may  be  forwarded 
in  pots  and  boxes,  kept  in  a  kitcl'.en  window,  care  being  taken  to 
give  them  plenty  of  air  in  suitable  weather,  and  water.  For  the 
late  autumn  and  main  winter  supply,  the  seed  may  be  sown  about 
the  middle  of  spring  (lOlh  to  15ih  April),  and  the  transplantation 
may  be  at  various  times  from  the  early  part  to  middle  of  summer 
(•20th  June  to  ^Ot'a  July).  Tlie  sorts  best  adapted  for  late  crops  are 
Drumhead,  Flat  Dutch  or  Bergen,  Drumhead  Savoy,  and  Curled 
Savoy.  The  two  former  produce  hard,  firm  heads,  and  are  grown 
extensively  in  the  vicinity  of  Philadelphia  for  "sour  kraut,"  and 
for  shipping  to  southern  ports — but  for  family  use,  and  where  quality 
is  the  object,  the  Drum:  Savoy,  and  Curled  Savoy,  are  far  prefer- 
able ;  tliey  boil  more  tenderly  and  are  without  the  strong  flavour 
possessed  by  ftie  hard  heading  kinds. 

Tlie  sm.all  kinds,  the  York,  Sugar-loaf,  &c.  may  be  planted  from 
sixteen  inches  to  two  feet  of  interval  between  the  rows,  and  from 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart.  The  larger  sorts,  the  Drumhead, 
Flat  Dutch,  &c.  from  two  feet  and  a  half  to  three  feet  between  the 
rows,  and  with  two  feet  at  least  between  plant  and  plant  in  the  rows. 

The  Red  Cabbage  seed  may  be  sown  at  the  same  time  with  the 
Drumhead,  &c.  and  treated  in  the  same  manner — they  are  used 
solely  for  pickling. 

Room  should  be  given  in  proportion  to  the  richness  of  the  ground, 
which,  for  these  larger  sorts,  ought  to  be  dug  very  deep,  and  be 
extremely  well-manured.  When  planting  out  in  summer,  if  the 
earth  be  very  dry,  it  should  be  stirred  deeply  \Ahere  the  plants  are 
to  be  placed  ;  tliey  should  be  firml}^  planted,  the  earth  pressed 
tightly  around  them,  especially  near  the  roots,  and  water  freely  ap- 
plied ;  where  the  plantation  is  extensive  the  latter  part  of  this  di- 
rection is  not  easily  observed,  and  in  such  cases  it  may  be  better 


24  THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN   GARDENING. 

to  await  rainy  weather.  Till  they  are  well  established,  water  must 
be  occasionally  given;  and  when  they  are  so,  digging  betAveen  the 
plants  and  earthing  must  be  regularly  performed.  Indeed,  digging 
is  of  the  utmost  consequence,  because,  as  it  is  by  the  roots  that 
cabbages  derive  their  principal  sustenance,  every  operation  of  the 
spade  which  allows  those  roots  to  spread  freely  in  search  of  food 
through  the  surrounding  earth  must  greatly  tend  to  increase  their 
growth. 

When  any  little  knobs  or  clubbings  are  seen  bulging  on  the  roots, 
they  ought  to  be  pared  off  with  a  sharp  knife,  as  they  often,  but 
not  always,  contain  a  burrowing  grub,  which  checks  the  growth 
of  the  plant,  and  which  also  becomes  a  little  sharp-beaked  weevil, 
that  eats  the  young  leaves  like  the  turnip  fly. 

When  the  Cabbages  have  been  cut,  if  the  ground  be  not  irame- 
diately  wanted,  the  stumps  may  stand  till  a  crop  of  sprouts  be  ob- 
tained ;  or,  where  the  ground  is  required  for  another  crop,  they  may 
be  taken  up  viiih  large  balls  of  earth  to  the  roots,  and  planted  in  a 
trench  in  any  spare  corner  of  the  garden,  at  half  a  foot  apart,  al- 
ways observing  to  deprive  them  of  all  their  old  leaves  as  soon  as 
the  head  is  cut  off,  that  the  young  sprouts  ma}'^  not  be  robbed  of 
their  nourishment. 

The  cabbage  j\y  is  frequently  so  voracious  as  to  devour  the  young 
plants  as  soon  as  they  appear  above  ground,  and  inexperienced 
persons  are  thereby  led  to  doubt  the  vitalit}'^  of  the  seed.  With 
every  exertion  it  is  difficult  to  destroy  the  fly — a  solution  of  tobac- 
co freely  sprinkled  over  them,  or  air-slacked  lime  dusted  on  the 
leaves  when  damp,  is  sometimes  effectual.  Another  method  is  to 
secure  a  hen,  having  a  young  brood,  in  a  coop,  the  chickens  having 
free  access  to  the  plants,  exterminate  the  flies.  As  a  last  resort, 
sow  in  boxes  elevated  two  or  three  feet  above  the  earth  ;  when  the 
plants  are  established,  place  the  boxes  on  the  ground,  else  the 
plants  may  burn. 

To  keep  the  heads  during  Winter,  bury  the  stalk  and  part  of  the 
head  with  earth — over  which,  if  the  cold  be  severe,  sprinkle  straw. 

Capsicum,  Pepper. — The  seed  maybe  sown  in  a  gentle  hot-bed 
early  in  spring  (15th  March),  or  late  in  spring  (1st  to  15th  May), 
on  a  warm  border,  and  when  the  plants  are  of  a  suitable  size  to 
transplant,  set  them  out  after  the  manner  directed  fnr  cabbage 
plants.  The  large  sweet,  and  bell-shaped,  are  principally  used  for 
pickling — the  cayenne  for  grinding. 

Carrots. — Early  in  the  spring  (15th  March)  is  the  best  season 
for  sowing  the  seed,  for  which  a  spot  of  light  ground  should  be 
chosen  in  an  open  situation.  The  ground  should  be  trenched  one 
good  spade  deep  at  least,  or  rather  it  should  be  double  dug.  Ob- 
serve in  dig  ing  to  take  but  thin  spits,  and  be  careful  to  break  all 
clods,  that  the  roots  may  have  full  liberty  to  run  down  long  and 
straight;  for  if  the  earth  be  not  well  divided  or  separated,  the  roots 
are  apt  to  grow  both  short  and  forked. 


THE   MANUAL   OF   KITCHEN   GARDENINO.  25 

The  seeds  may  either  be  sown  broadcast  all  over  the  surface,  or 
the  ground  may  be  previous!  y  (livided  into  beds  four  or  five  feet 
wide.  In  either  method,  hov\ever,  sow  the  seeds  thinly  with  an 
even  hand,  and  rake  them  in ;  but,  previously  to  raking,  observe, 
that  if  the  ground  be  quite  light  and  dry,  the  seed  may  be  first 
trodden  in  evenly,  in  doing  which  take  care  to  tread  it  lightly  and 
regularly,  pretty  closely  together,  then  let  the  seed  be  raked  in 
moderately.  In  sowing  these  seeds,  however,  it  will  be  proper  to 
observe,  tliat  when  the  ground  has  a  disposition  to  be  wet,  or  is  apt 
to  bind,  it  will  be  proper  in  that  case  to  divide  it  into  beds,  four  or 
five  feet  wide,  with  narrow  alleys  about  a  spade  wide;  then  sow 
the  seed.  The  ground,  however,  must  not  be  trodden,  but  the  seed 
must  be  raked  in  regularly,  taking  particular  care  not  to  draw  the 
earth  in  heaps.  The  seeds  have  numerous  forked  hairs  on  their 
borders,  by  which  they  adhere,  and,  th-erefore,  previously  to  sow- 
ing, they  should  be  well  rubbed  between  the  hands,  and  mixed 
with  dry  sand,  in  order  to  separate  them  as  much  as  possible  ;  they* 
are  also  very  light,  and  therefore  a  quiet,  still  day  should  be  cho- 
sen for  sowing.  The  seed  ought  not  to  be  more  than  a  year  old, 
and  is  often  bad. 

The  plants  as  they  rise  should  be  kept  clear  of  weeds,  and  when 
two  or  three  inches  high  they  should  be  thinned  out  at  intervals  of 
four  inches,  and  again,  at  dillerent  thinnings,  to  distances  of  six, 
eight,  or  ten  inches.  The  produce  of  these  latter  thinnings  will 
supply  the  table,  until  the  main  crop  be  taken  out  late  in  Autumn 
(1st  Nov.)  In  taking  them  up  they  should  not  be  broken  nor 
wounded  with  the  tools  employed  for  that  purpose:  their  tops 
should  be  cut  off  about  half  an  inch  above  the  root:  they  may  be 
stacked  in  a  shed  or  spare  house,  in  dry  sand,  laid  in  layers  of 
roots  and  sand  alternately,  or  they  may  be  stored  in  the  open 
ground,  protected  from  the  severity  of  winter  by  a  covering  of  straw 
over  the  earth. 

For  the  early  crop,  the  early  Horn  sort  is  preferable,  but  is  small, 
and  not  so  profitable  as  the  long  Orange,  which  is  better  adapted 
for  the  main  crop. 

Cauliflower. — The  season  of  sowing  for  Cauliflowers  to  be 
eaten  in  the  spring,  is  about  the  time  directed  for  sowing  early  cab- 
bage, namely:  early  in  autumn  (15th  Sept.)  The  best  method 
for  preparing  the  ground  is  to  open  small  trenches,  and  to  dig  in 
lightly  some  fresh  earth  in  good  compost  to  receive  the  plants. 
When  the  plants  are  a  proper  size  they  should  be  pricked  out  in  a 
careful  and  regular  mr.nner,  and  tlie  spot  should  be  one  of  the  warm- 
est in  the  garden.  The  cauliflower  being  a  very  tender  plant,  it  is 
almost  useless  to  attempt  to  rear  them,  unless  there  be  glass  to  put 
them  under  in  very  severe  M'eather.  'i'hey,  however,  should  not 
be  covered  until  the  weather  demands  it,  and,  in  the  mean  while, 
the  hoe  should  be  freqiientl}^  used  between  them,  and  by  that 
means  the  earth  kept  as  dry  about  their  stems  as  the  season  will 
3 


26  THE   MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN    GARDENINO. 

permit.  In  very  severe  weather  they  must  be  covered,  but  never 
any  longer  than  is  absolutely  necessary,  for  too  much  covering  and 
too  much  deprivation  of  air  make  them  weak,  and  disqualify  ihera 
for  bearing.  From  these  beds  they  may  be  planted  out  in  rows, 
like  cabbages,  only  at  rather  greater  distances,  and  taking  care  to 
move  a  little  earth  along  with  them,  about  the  middle  of  spring 
(1st  to  15th  April).  In  the  south  they  may  be  planted  out  late  in 
autumn,  in  clumps,  of  three,  four,  five,  or  six  in  a  clump,  and  there 
stand  the  winter,  covered  by  hand-glasses,  which  are  taken  off 
when  the  weather  is  fine,  and  raised  up  at  the  bottom  by  the  means 
of  bricks,  to  prevent  a  drawing  up  of  the  plants.  Towards  spring, 
that  is  to  say,  in  the  month  of  February  or  March,  the  weakest  of 
the  plants  in  each  clump  should  be  taken  up  and  planted  elsewhere. 
As  the  dry  weather  approaches,  the  earth  should  be  drawn  up  round 
the  clumps,  so  as  to  form  a  dish  for  each,  and  when  the  head«  be- 
gin to  appear,  water  should  be  poured  into  these  dishes,  for  the 
■dower  is  greatly  improved  by  abundant  watering ;  in  fact,  it  ought 
never  to  be  neglected. 

To  have  Cauliflowers  in  the  autumn,  the  seed  should  be  sown 
in  the  middle  of  spring  (15th  April).  These  plants  should  be 
transplanted  into  rows  two  feet  or  two  feet  and  a  half  distant,  the 
plants  being  from  eighteen  to  twenty  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 
The  cauliflower  is  at  the  best  an  uncertain  vegetable  in  this  cli- 
mate, and  the  only  mode  of  culture  in  which  success  may  be  relied 
on,  is  in  hot-beds,  where  the  temperature  most  congenial  to  them 
can  be  secured  by  artificial  means. 

Celery. — Very  early  in  the  spring  (1st  to  15th  March),  if  the 
frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  prepare  a  small  bed  of  light  rich  earth, 
in  a  warm  sheltered  situation,  in  which  the  seed  must  be  sown  for 
an  early  crop.  Break  the  mould  very  fine,  as  the  seed  is  small,  and 
rake  the  surface  even  ;  sow  the  seed,  but  not  too  thickly,  and  cover 
with  light  rich  mould,  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep.  The  plants 
should  be  kept  thin  in  the  seed  bed,  and  pricked  out  when  fit  upon 
a  surface  of  fresh  earth,  well  manured.  They  should  be  watered 
and  shaded  until  they  take  root;  and,  in  drawing  from  the  seed- 
bed, let  some  of  the  strongest  plants  remain,  to  be  put  out  for  an 
early  drill.  They  should  be  planted  out  before  they  become  too 
strong ;  and,  if  they  have  acquired  a  large  ball  of  earth  and  roots, 
these  and  the  straggling  leaves  on  the  sides  should  be  cut  away,  in 
part,  before  planting  out  to  remain. 

Trenches  must  be  made  early  in  summer  (20th  June)  for  tho 
early,  and  a  month  later  for  the  main  crop,  at  four  and  a  half  or 
five  feet  distance,  a  foot  broad,  and  a  foot  deep.  At  the  bottom  lay 
four  inches  of  well-rotted  dung,  digging  it  in,  or  placing  over  it  a 
covering  of  three  inches  of  rich  earth,  raked  even,  in  which  the 
plants,  now  about  six  inches  high,  must  be  planted,  six  inches 
apart,  taking  care  to  remove  all  side-shoots.  In  hot  weather,  tho 
plantation  should  be  made  in  the  evening,  and  a  liberal  supply  of 


THE   MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN   GARDENINQ.  27 

water  be  administered.  When  the  sun  is  powerful,  they  should 
be  shaded  until  they  take  root,  which  will  assist  in  keeping  the 
soil  uioist. 

As  the  plants  begin  to  grow,  hoe  them  on  each  side,  and  between 
them,  with  a  small  hoe;  and,  as  they  further  increase  in  growth, 
proceed  to  earth  or  blanch  them;  in  doing  which,  the  soil  to  be 
used  should  be  in  a  pulverized  state,  and  prepared  properly  with 
the  spade.  The  stalks  of  the  outside  leaves  should  be  kept  close 
up,  to  prevent  the  earth  from  getting  between  the  stems  of  the  out- 
side leaves  and  the  inner  ones ;  for  if  it  be  allowed  to  get  there,  it 
checks  the  plant  and  makes  the  Celery  bad.  A  little  earth  may 
be  added  every  week  or  ten  days,  accordingly  as  the  crop  advances, 
always  leaving  about  six  inches  of  the  leaves  above  the  surface  of 
the  soil.  Particular  attention  should  be  paid  in  earthing  up  that 
the  soil  be  dry,  otherwise  it  is  apt  to  rot  the  plants,  and  render  them 
unfit  for  use. 

For  the  autumnal  crop,  the  white  is  superior  in  flavour,  but  the 
red  is  said  by  some  to  be  better  calculated  for  standing  through  the 
winter.  If  long  and  hard  frost  be  apprehended,  a  quantity  of 
Celery  should  be  taken  up,  and  laid  in  a  bed  of  sand  or  light  earth, 
in  a  shed  or  cellar;  for  when  the  ground  is  deeply  frozen,  it  is 
sometimes  impossible  to  get  it  out  without  tearing  it  to  pieces,  and 
it  may  be  kept  very  well  for  several  weeks  in  a  cellar. 

Chives. — Chives  are  used  by  many,  both  in  the  kitchen  and  in 
salads,  and  are  a  substitute  for  spring  onions.  They  will  grow 
almost  in  any  soil,  and  are  easily  propagated  by  offsets.  They 
may  be  planted  in  rows  eight  or  nine  inches  asunder,  and  four  or 
five  in  the  row.  Any  time  early  in  the  spring  will  be  proper  for 
'planting. 

Corn,  Indian. — This  vegetable  belongs  more  properly  to  the 
farm  than  garden,  but  as  it  is  very  generally  used  in  this  country 
in  a  green  state  as  a  culinary  dish,  it  may  not  be  out  of  place  to 
rank  it  with  the  kitchen  vegetables.  The  varieties  are  more  nu- 
merous than  needful.  For  roasting  ears  or  boiling,  Adams'  early^ 
sweet  or  sugar,  and  the  early  white  Jlint,  are  perhaps  as  good  as 
any:  the  first  named  is  cultivated  because  of  its  extreme  earliness; 
the  best  is  probably  the  "  sugar,"  which  remains  in  a  milky  state 
until  quite  old. 

Mode  of  culture. — Plant  in  hills  three  or  four  feet  apart,  per- 
mitting two  or  three  stalks  only  to  stand  in  each  hill,  at  intervals 
of  two  or  three  weeks,  from  middle  of  spring  (15th  April)  to  mid- 
dle of  summer  (15th  July);  if  the  ground  be  not  very  rich,  add  a 
shovel-ful  of  decomposed  manure  to  each  hill,  especially  when 
intending  to  plant  the  sugar  variety,  which  seems  to  demand  strong- 
er land  than  any  other;  digging  or  deep  hoeing,  where  the  plough 
is  inadmissible,  will  prove  useful,  and  when  the  stalks  have  risen, 
two  or  three  feet,  the  lateral  or  side  shoots,  termed  suckers,  should 
be  taken  off. 


2S  THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN    GARDENING. 

Corn  Sallad,  Fetticus  or  Lamb's  Lettuce. — This  plant  is  a 
native  of  Erigland,  and  is  culti%'ated  in  the  gardens  as  a  sallad;  it 
is  sown  early  in  autumn  (15th  Sept.)  either  in  drills  or  broad-cast, 
the  former  is  the  better  plan,  as  the  crop  may  more  readily  be  kept 
free  from  weeds,  and  gathered  for  use.  Late  in  the  autumn  give 
a  slight  covering  of  straw;  and  should  the  winter  not  prove  unu- 
sually severe,  it  may  be  had  throughout  it  and  the  spring.  It  is 
generally  brought  to  table  mixed  with  scuiTy  grass,  which  is 
highly  pungent,  and  conects  the  tame  flavour  of  the  Fetticus. 

Cress.^A  small  quantity  should,  in  the  salad  season,  be  sown 
every  six  or  eight  days,  for  it  should  be  cut  before  it  comes  into 
the  rough  leaf.  It  is  sown  in  shallow  drills,  and  covered  slightly 
wuth  very  fine  earth.  The  common  garden  Cress  is  generally  not 
cut  till  the  fourth  or  fifth  leaf  has  made  its  appearance,  but  the 
curled  Cress  will  remain  good  for  a  considerable  length  of  time, 
if  the  outside  leaves  only  be  picked  oflT,  as  it  will  soon  produce 
more,  and  in  this  respect  bears  a  great  sm;ilarity  to  parsley. 

One  ounce  of  seed  will  be  sufiJicient  tor  a  bed  three  feet  broad 
and  five  feet  long. 

Cucumbers. — For  an  early  crcp  for  table  use.  start  some  plants 
in  pots  middle  of  spring  (15th  April),  anrt  when  all  probability  of 
frost  is  over,  set  them  out  on  a  well  sneliered  oorder,  in  hills,  with 
a  spade-ful  of  well  rotted  manure  inroiporated  with  the  soil  of 
each  hill ;  at  the  same  time  the  seed,  for  a  succeeding  crop,  may 
be  planted.  For  pickles  plant  middle  of  summer  (20th  July). 
The  early  frame  is  the  best  variety  for  table  use,  and  the  Irng  green 
for  pickling.  The  Cucumber,  like  the  squash,  is  liable  to  be  preyed 
upon  by  yellow  bugs,  which  are  very  destructive;  to  counteract^ 
them  prepare  a  mixture  of  air-slacked  lime  and  wood  ashes,  which 
sprinkle  freely  over  the  leaves  and  stems  \s4iilst  the  dew  is  on,  that 
it  may  adhere. 

Cucumbers  for  forcing,  are  sometimes  sown  as  early  as  mid- 
winter, or  earlier  by  the  market-gardeners,  but  this  is  very  hazar- 
dous ;  such  as  are  grown  in  boxes  and  lights,  and  will  succeed 
without  linings,  are  sown  from  the  middle  of  March  to  the  middle 
of  April  ;  and  somewhat  later,  seed  may  be  sown  for  putting  under 
the  hand-glass.  Cucumbers,  sown  in  the  middle  of  March,  require 
stronofer  beds  than  those  sown  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  later. 
Let  a  trench  be  dug  the  size  of  the  frame,  about  eighteen  inches 
deep,  and  if  the  soil  is  light  and  rich  that  is  drawn  out,  the  bed 
may  be  formed  of  it;  but  a  strong  loam  will  not  be  available. 
Make  the  bed  even,  and  tread  it  down  well  with  a  fall  of  about  six 
inches  from  back  to  front ;  place  on  the  boxes  and  lights,  and  when 
the  heat  rises,  admit  one  or  two  inches  of  air.  In  about  a  week 
put  in  about  a  barrowful  of  mould  to  each  light,  for  the  hills.  The 
mould  must  be  levelled  about  an  inch  all  over  the  bed  to  prevent 
the  rank  steam  injuring  the  plants.    The  next  da}^  ridge  out  the 


THE    MANUAL    OK   KITCHEN    GARDENING.  29 

plants,  press  the  mould  close  round  the  roots  and  apply  a  little 
water,  sprinkling  a  little  regularly  all  over  the  bed  ;  admit  plenty 
of  air  both  night  and  day  until  the  bed  becomes  perfectly  sweet, 
after  which  the  frame  may  be  closed  at  night. 

The  hot-bed  for  cucumbers  requires  a  stronger  heat  than  that  for 
melons,  otherwise  the  management  is  similar  to  what  will  be  here- 
after directed  in  the  culture  of  that  plant.  The  seed  for  the  cucum- 
ber should  be  at  least  two  years  old,  as  new^  seed  is  more  produc- 
tive of  vigorous  shoots  than  much  fruit. 

Particular  care  is  requisite  in  the  culture  of  the  late  cucumber, 
to  prevent  the  canker ;  the  best  method  is,  to  keep  the  plants  thin 
of  vine,  and  never  water  later  than  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
that  the  vines  may  dry  before  night,  and  always  apply  soft  water. 

When  you  ridge  out  the  plants,  put  two  in  small  licjhts  and  three 
in  larger  ones ;  when  the  roots  appear  through  the  hill  of  earth  in 
which  you  have  placed  them,  add  more  mould,  and  when  they  have 
been  ridged  out  about  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  mould  them  up  fully.  Care  must  be  taken  to  stop  the 
plants,  by  removing  the  eye  or  bud  carefully  with  the  nail  or  a 
knife  at  the  second  joint  when  they  have  made  two  rough  leaves, 
and  then  let  them  run  six  joints,  stopping  them  again,  when  they 
"Swill  generally  show^  fruit  if  properly  attended  to.  Do  not  let  more 
than  one  fruit  swell  on  each  shoot,  which  will  thus  be  very  fine. 
Nothing  is  more  important  than  laying  the  plant  in  a  proper  man- 
ner. This  should  be  attended  to  every  fortnight  or  three  weeks 
after  the  plants  have  come  into  bearing;  if  the  laying  is  continued 
in  a  regular  manner,  good  fruit  may  be  obtained  until  the  crop 
from  the  open  ground  is  fit  for  use.  After  the  plants  have  been 
ridged  out  a  fortnight,  it  will  be  necessary  to  shut  them  down  in 
the  afternoon.  They  will  however  require  air  in  the  night,  gener- 
ally till  the  fruit  is  cut,  even  though  the  weather  be  mild,  or  they 
are  liable  to  change  colour  and  gain  a  yellow*  cast  in  a  strong  heat. 

Cucumbers  under  Hand-Glasses — May  be  sown  from  the  first 
to  the  middle  of  April,  and  the  plants  may  be  brought  forward  in 
the  early  cucumber  or  melon  beds.  When  they  are  potted,  place 
three  in  each  pot ;  do  not  fill  the  pots  more  than  three  parts  full, 
as  they  are  very  liable  to  draw  up  long  in  the  stem;  merely 
cover  the  roots  with  mould  at  first,  adding  a  little  more  a  day 
or  two  afterwards ;  and  in  about  a  week  fill  the  pots  to  the  brim. 
Give  them  as  much  air  as  possible,  and  place  them  at  the  back 
of  the  hot-bed  as  near  the  glass  as  convenient;  supply  them  weil 
with  water,  and  stop  them  at  the  second  joint;  they  will  thus 
become  strong  plants  fit  for  the  hand-glass,  in  three  weeks  or  a 
month  at  most.     They  must  then  be  ridged  out  in  a  light  rich  earth. 

If  you  have  a  piece  of  disengaged  ground,  two  or  three  months 

before  you  want  it  for  the  cucumber  bed,  mark  it  out  six  feet  wide, 

putting  in  six  inches  of  dung  or  leaf  mould,  laying  it  up  in  ridges 

of  two  feet  six  inches  in  width,  and  afoot  in  depth;  when  wanted, 

3» 


80  THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN    GAEDENIKG. 

level  it  down  and  dig  a  trench  three  feet  wide  for  the  dung,  leaving 
it  nine  or  ten  ini'lies  deep,  taking  care  to  leave  it  a  little  higher  in 
the  middle  where  the  dung  is  placed  ;  then  mark  out  six  feet  wide 
beds  for  each,  and  three  feet  alleys;  afterwards  pl;ice  the  line  to 
the  middle  of  the  ridge,  and  mark  out  three  feet  six  inches,  which 
must  be  the  distance  from  the  centre  of  each  glass.  Take  out  two 
spades-ful  of  the  mould,  level  it  on  the  ridge,  and  put  one  spade- 
ful of  light  rich  earth  in  its  place  for  the  purpose  of  receiving  the 
plant  when  you  turn  it  out  from  the  pot.  If  the  hand-glasses  are 
laro-e  and  the  plants  have  been  prcperly  stopped,  llie  fruit  will  be 
ready  to  cut  early  :  do  not  suffer  them  to  run  to  too  much  vine,  six 
joints  are  quite  sufficient  at  the  first,  and  afterwards  always  stop 
them  at  the  first  or  second  joint.  Let  them  be  kept  under  ihe 
glasses  as  long  as  possible  without  injury,  admitting  air  in  the  day- 
time by  means  of  a  wooden  wedge,  and  before  placing  the  vine 
outside  the  glasses,  it  will  be  necessary  to  admit  a  larger  qisantity 
of  air,  both  night  and  da}',  for  three  or  four  days,  to  harden  the 
plants.  Lay  out  ihe  vines  regularly,  peg  them  down,  and  raise  the 
glass  to  the  south  by  means  of  a  piece  of  stick  about  a  foot  in 
length,  with  three  notches  cut  in  it,  about  two  inches  apart,  for  the 
purpose  of  resting  the  glass  upon.  The  ridges  must  always  front 
the  south. 

Egg  Plant  or  Melongene. — This  vegetable  is  a  native  of  Af- 
rica, hence  the  name  Guinea  Squash,  by  which  it  is  designated 
among  the  slaves  of  the  south.  Of  late  years  it  has  become  of 
very  general  use,  and  large  numbers  of  them  are  grown  for  the 
supply  of  the  Philadelphia  market ;  they  are  used  in  stews  and 
soups,  but  are  usually  cut  in  thin  slices  and  fried.  ^I'he  original 
species  is  tchiie^  but  the  varieties  most  cultivated,  are  ihe  smooih- 
stemmed  purple,  and  the  pricJfly  stcntnicd  purple;  both  grow  large, 
and  are  equally  good  ;  but  the  smooth  stemmed  is  the  earlier.  To 
have  them  early  it  is  requisite  to  sow  them  in  a  hot-bed,  very  early 
in  the  spring  (15th  March),  transplanting  them  into  another  when 
they  attain  the  height  of  three  or  four  inches.  Li  the  second  bed 
they  m.ay  be  planted  in  rows,  at  the  distance  of  four  inches,  or 
may  be  put  in  small  sized  pots,  one  in  each,  and  th.e  pets  plunged 
up  to  the  rim  in  the  mould.  This  latter  plan  is  prefi  rahle,  as  the 
roots  are  not  disturbed  at  the  final  transplantation.  They  should 
not  be  put  out  in  the  open  ground  before  the  weather  becciues  mild 
(middle  of  May),  because  the  plants  are  very  tender,  and  should 
they  even  escape  frost,  may  become  stinted  from  long  continued 
cool  weather.  These  who  have  net  the  convenience  of  a  hot-bed, 
may  sow  in  pots  or  boxes,  middle  of  spring  (15th  April),  keeping 
them  in  a  south  window :  or  may  place  them  in  a  frame,  without 
dung,  covered  by  sash,  carefully  sheltering  them  from  frost  and 
cold  winds.  When  about  to  plant  them  in  the  open  ground,  choose 
a  well  cultivated  spot,  and  if  not  rich,  or  even  if  in  good  condition, 


THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN   GARDENING.  31 

add  plenty  of  thoroughly  rotted  stable  manure;  allow  the  piants 
tiiree  feet  space  each  way. 

Endive.— The  principal  season  for  the  sowing  of  Endive  is  about 
the  middle  of  summer  (-JOth  July);  if  sown  much  earlier,  it  gen- 
erally runs  olT  to  seed.  Make  a  bed  very  fine,  and  sow  the  seed 
in  drills  at  eighteen  inches  apart,  and  about  half  an  inch  deep  ia 
the  drill,  the  earth  being  pressed  down  very  closely  upon  the  seed. 
The  plants,  which  will  be  quickly  up,  must  be  thinned  as  soon  as 
possible  to  eighteen  inches  in  the  row,  and  thus  they  will  stand 
throughout  the  bed  at  eighteen  inches  from  each  otiier.  Ep.dive 
may  be  transplanted,  but  it  does  not  transplant  so  well  as  lettuce, 
and  the  plants  are  never  so  fine  as  those  which  remain  on  the  spot 
where  they  were  sown.  When  the  plants  have  attained  something 
like  their  full  size,  they  must  undergo  the  process  of  blanctiing, 
which  is  performed  as  follows  : — gather  the  whole  plant  up  in  your 
hands  in  a  conical  form,  end  then  tie  it  round  with  matting,  which 
is  to  go  several  times  round  the  plant,  causing  it  to  end  so  point- 
edly at  the  top  as  to  prevent  the  rain  or  dew  from  penetrating  to  the 
interior.  Particular  care  must  be  observed,  in  blanching  the  plants, 
that  the  leaves  are  all  dry,  otherwise  corruption  is  apt  to  ensue, 
and  the  plant  entirely  spoil.  The  great  difficulty  in  the  case  of 
Endive  is  to  have  it  for  use  in  the  winter,  for,  though  it  is  hardy 
enough,  it  will  rot,  if  it  stand  tied  up  too  long.  A  good  method  is 
to  take  up  the  roots,  with  balls  to  them,  late  in  autumn  (1st  Nov.), 
when  they  are  perfectly  dry,  and  then  planting  these  balls  in  sand 
or  earth  in  a  shed  ;  but  on  this  plan  you  can  hardly  make  the  plant 
last  for  use  beyond  the  middle  of  December.  The  only  effectual 
way  to  have  Endive  in  winter,  is  to  cover  them  with  glazed  frames 
in  the  fall  of  the  year,  or  with  hoops  and  mats,  taking  all  covering 
off  in  mild  weather,  just  protecting  the  plants  from  hard  frosts, 
and  proceeding  with  bleaching  and  cutting  for  use  as  previously 
directed. 

Eschalots  may  be  planted  early  in  the  spring  (15th  March,  or 
earlier,  if  the  frost  admits),  if  they  have  not  been  planted  in  au- 
tumn, which  is  the  best  season  for  that  operation.  They  require  a 
gnod,  rich,  light  soil,  and  an  open  situation.  Choose  a  piece  of 
dry  ground  which  has  been  manured  for  the  preceding  crop,  as  they 
are  apt  to  canker,  and  be  infested  with  maag-ots,  if  planted  in  fresh 
dung.  They  may  be  planted  in  rows  one  foot  apart,  and  the  roots 
nine  inches  distant  in  the  lines.  If  necessary  to  manure  the  ground, 
we  have  found  the  dung  of  pigeons  or  poultry  the  best,  and  least 
liable  to  breed  grubs.  Let  the  tops  appear  over  the  ground,  and, 
early  in  June,  take  all  the  earth  away  from  them  with  the  hoe, 
leaving  them  quite  bare,  which  will  cause  them  to  bulb  "well,  and 
in  a  great  measure  prevent  the  canker.  When  the  tops  begin  to 
turn  yellow,  the  roots  should  be  taken  up,  and  dried  in  the  same 
manner  as  garlic  and  onions. 


32  THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN    GARDtNlNG. 

Horse-radish. — This  plant  is  propairnted  by  cutting-s  ;  procure 
a  nuiriber  of  proper  gets,  which  may  be  » ither  the  small  offsets  that 
rise  from  the  bottom  or  sides  of  the  main  roots,  and  of  which  take 
cuttings  of  their  tops,  two  or  three  inclies  lont^;  or  use  the  tops 
and  crowns  of  the  old  roots,  when  taken  up  for  use,  in  cuttings  of 
tlie  above  lentrth.  Being  thus  furnished  with  a  proper  number  of 
sets,  trench  the  ground  to  the  depih  of  two  feet,  and  add  a  slight 
body  of  manure;  plant  the  sets  wiih  a  spade  or  large  dibble,  rake 
the  surface  smooth,  and  sow  it  with  spinach,  if  that  should  be 
wanted.  As  Horse-radish  is  a  coarse-growing  vegetable,  it  would 
be  advisable  to  plant  it  in  some  part  of  the  slip,  or  outer  parts  of 
the  garden,  where  it  may  be  seen  as  little  as  possible;  neverthe- 
less, plant  it  in  a  situation  where  it  will  not  be  under  the  shade  of 
trees. 

In  taking  up  these  roots,  it  should  be  done  regularly,  not  taking 
up  a  stick  or  root  here  and  there,  as  is  often  practised  in  private 
gardens,  but  beginning  at  the  first  row,  and  proceeding  from  row  to 
row,  as  it  is  wanted. 

Lef.ks. — This  is  a  vegetable  which  for  certain  purposes  is  pre- 
ferred to  onions.  "The  time  for  sowing  is  as  early  in  the  spring  as 
the  weather  and  ground  will  permit  (say  15th  March).  Sow  in 
little  drills,  made  across  a  bed  of  fine  earth;  put  the  rows  eight 
inches  asunder,  and  thin  the  plants  to  three  inches  apart  in  the  row. 
Keep  the  ground  clean  by  nice  hoeing  until  the  middle  of  summer 
(20th  July),  or  thereabouts  ;  then  take  the  plants  up,  cut  the  roots 
off  to  an  inch  long,  and  cut  off  the  tops  of  the  leaves,  but  not  too 
low  down ;  make  deep  drills  with  a  hoe  at  two  feet  apart.  Plant 
the  Leeks  in  these  drills  with  a  setting  stick,  fastening  them  well 
in  the  ground,  and  leaving  the  drill  open.  As  the  plants  grow, 
put  to  their  sides  the  earth  that  came  out  of  the  drill ;  after  that, 
draw  more  up  to  them  on  each  side  from  the  interval,  and,  if  your 
ground  be  really  good,  each  leek  will  have  attained  a  sufficient  size 
for  use.  They  will  stand  the  winter  perfectly  m  ell  without  any 
covering  at  all ;  but,  as  a  provision  against  hard  frost,  some  plants 
should  be  always  taken  up,  aud  put  into  earth  or  sand  in  a  shed  or 
cellar. 

An  ounce  of  seed  will  be  enough  for  a  bed  four  feet  broad  and 
twelve  feet  long ;  the  London  tall,  or  the  Musselburg  Flag,  being 
the  best. 

Lettuce. — If  the  weather  be  mild  and  dry  towards  the  early 
part  of  spring  (15th  March),  the  seed  of  Lettuce  may  be  sown. 
A  rich  light  soil  and  an  early  warm  spot  are  to  be  chosen.  The 
brown  Dutch,  the  early  Cabbage,  the  white  Cos,  and  green  Cos, 
are  the  kinds  most  proper  for  this  sowing.  Let  the  seed  be  sown 
rather  thiq,kly  ;  let  it  be  lightly  covered,  and  raked  in  smoothly  and 
neatly  :  the  seeds  must  not  be  trodden  nor  beaten  in.  When  the 
plants  come  up,  thin  them  quickly  to  four  inches  apart :  when  they 


THE   MANUAL    OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING.  33 

have  attained  the  height  of  about  four  or  five  inches,  leave  one  and 
take  up  two  throughout  all  the  rows,  and  then  hoe  the  ground  nicely 
between  the  remaining  plants,  having  previously  made  another  bed 
to  receive  the  plants  thus  taken  up  ;  plant  these  in  rows  across  a 
bed,  the  rows  fifteen  inches  apart,  and  the  plants  fifteen  inches 
apart  in  the  row.  To  have  Lettuces  to  eat  in  the  winter,  they  must 
be  sown  in  autumn  (15th  to  •20th  Sept.),  in  the  natural  ground,  and 
in  December  they  must  be  taken  up  without  much  disturbance  of 
their  roots,  and  put  into  a  pretty  good  hot-bed  made  for  the  purpose, 
the  mould  for  which  ought  to  be  eight  inches  deep  at  the  least. 
They  should  be  watered  a  little  at  planting,  and  stand  nine  inches 
apart  every  way.  They  should  be  shaded  from  the  sun  for  a  couple 
of  days,  and  then  have  as  much  air  given  to  them,  constantly  as 
the  weather  will  permit.  Rotten  leaves  and  putrified  matter  of 
every  description  should  be  removed  from  them,  and  be  kept  as 
safely  as  possible  from  being  touchedby  the  frost.  If  these  direc- 
tions be  attended  to,  fine  Lettuces  may  be  had  by  the  latter  end  of 
December,  as  well  as  through  the  months  of  January  and  Febru- 
ary. In  order  to  have  Lettuces  early  in  the  spring,  the  seed  must 
be  sown  in  autumn,  and  on  the  approach  of  winter  weather  the 
plants  must  be  transplanted  into  the  warmest  and  best  .sheltered 
spots  in  the  garden,  in  beds  about  three  feet  wide,  with  hoops  and 
rods  placed  over  the  beds  soon  enough,  in  order  to  cover  them  with 
mats  in  severe  weather,  or,  instead  of  hoops  and  mats,  they  may 
be  covered  with  a  glass  frame  and  shutter ;  but  whatever  the  cover- 
ing may  be,  it  must  be  taken  off  the  moment  the  weather  will  per- 
mit it  with  safety. 

Earth-worms  will  be  apt  to  draw  into  their  holes  the  pricked-out 
plants,  and  snails  and  slugs  will  devour  the  leaves,  even  to  tho 
very  heart,  if  due  diligence  be  not  used  to  check  the  depredations 
of  those  vermin.  Lettuces  may  be  sown  with  great  advantage 
amongst  onions,  and  in  alternate  drill  with  spinach,  radishes,  or 
potatos. 

Lettuce  may  be  blanched  as  directed  for  endive. 

Melon. — This  delicious  fruit  is  said  to  have  been  introduced 
from  Asia,  it  is  now,  however,  reared  wherever  the  sun  is  warm 
enough  to  perfect  it,  but  in  England,  where  the  climate  is  more  prod- 
igal of  rain  than  sun-shine,  it  is  extensively  cultivated  by  artificial 
heat,  for  which  ample  directions  are  annexed.  The  Philadelphia  mar- 
ket is  supplied  from  the  neighbouring  shore  of  New  Jersey,  the  soil 
of  which  is  of  a  light  sand,  precisely  adapted  to  the  culture  of  the 
Melon;  they  are  there  grown  in  fields  of  some  acres  extent,  culti- 
vated by  the  plough.  The  mnde  of  culture  in  the  garden,  is  pre- 
cisely as  directed  for  early  cucumber.  The  soil  should  bje  some- 
what lighter  if  practicable,  especially  for  the  Water  Melon,  and 
the  plantations  should  be  made  apart  from  those  of  Squashes.  Cu- 
cumbers, and  other  plants  of  the  same  family,  which  are  peculiarly 
liable  to  hybridize.     The  varieties  of  the  Cantelope  or  Musk  Mel- 


34  THE   MANUAL    OP   KITCHEN    GARDENING. 

on  tribe,  are  a  dozen  or  more.  For  the  supply  of  Philadelphia, 
the  Nutmeg  and  Citron  are  preferred  ;  they  are  both  highly  aro- 
matic, and  well  acclimated.  The  kinds  of  Water  INJelon  there 
grown  are  the  Black  and  White  Spanish,  the  Muuntain  Sprout  and 
Carolina,  all  excellent  varieties. 

7b  force  Melons,  the  hot-beds  for  the  reception  of  this  fruit  must 
be  commenced  in  January  or  February,  by  providing  a  quantity  of 
good  stable-dung  to  make  a  small  hot-bed  for  the  reception  of  the 
seed,  and  to  raise  the  plants  to  a  proper  growth  for  ridging  or  trans- 
planting out  into  the  larger  bed  the  next  month ;  a  cartload  or  fif- 
teen large  wheel-barrows,  full  of  proper  hot  dung,  will  be  sufficient, 
and  will  form  a  bed  for  a  one-light  box  for  the  hot-bed.  You  must 
also  provide  the  requisite  quantity  of  good  stable-dung,  consisting 
of  that  formed  of  the  moist  stable  litter  and  droppings  of  the  horses 
together;  it  must  be  moderately  fresh,  moist,  and  full  of  heat, — 
dry  long  strawy  or  exhausted  parts  must  be  rejected.  The  prepar- 
ation of  the  dung  is  a  very  important  process ;  it  should  be  turned 
and  well  shaken  together  every  fourth  day  for  a  fortnight  at  least, 
and  be  kept  rather  dry,  which  will  cause  the  bed  to  heat  moderately 
and  equally,  and  to  sink  little  and  retain  its  heat  long.  The  spot 
selected  for  the  hot-bed  should  be  an  enclosed  well-sheltered  place, 
open  to  the  morning  and  south-sun ;  the  surface  should  be  cover- 
ed with  gravel  or  sand,  and  be  made  sloping  to  the  southward. 
The  spaces  for  the  hot-beds  are  sometimes  level  with  the  surface, 
or  are  raised  on  a  bottom  of  gravel  or  solid  brick  ground ;  and 
sometimes  pits  are  made  on  well-drained  ground,  deep  and  wide 
enough  for  the  beds  and  linings.  Judicious  management  is  of  more 
importance  than  the  disposition  of  the  hot-bed,  which  may  be  de- 
termined by  local  circumstances  or  private  opinion ;  but  as  the  heat 
of  dung  or  leaf-beds  must  be  kept  up  by  occasional  linings,  they 
are  the  best  built  on  some  raised  base,  which  will  save  a  more  con- 
siderable quantity  of  dung,  and  will  also  allow  the  bed  to  receive 
more  benefit  by  the  lining. 

The  ground  for  the  hot-bed  must  be  a  foot  larger  each  way  than 
the  frame.  As  you  make  the  bed,  shake  and  mix  the  dung  well  as 
you  lay  it,  and  beat  it  down  with  the  back  of  the  fork  as  you  go 
on,  but  do  not  tread  it :  for  a  bed  which  is  trodden  hard,  w'ill  not 
work  so  kindly,  and  is  more  liable  to  burn,  than  when  suffered  to 
settle  down  gradually  of  itself;  proceed  thus  till  the  bed  is  fully 
three  feet  high ;  as  soon  as  finished,  put  on  the  frame  and  glass, 
and  keep  them  close  till  the  heat  comes  up,  then  raise  the  glass 
behind,  that  the  steam  may  pass.  You  should  be  provided  with 
little  props  for  this  purpose,  one  for  each  light,  made  wedge-shaped  : 
one  end  should  be  three  inches  and  a  half  thick,  being  regularly 
sloped  off  to  nothing  at  the  other  end.  These  will  readily  raise 
the  lights  to  any  height  you  may  judge  proper,  according  to  the 
heat  of  the  bed,  or  the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere.  Melons 
are  sometimes  raised  in  brick  pits,  covered  with  stone  or  oak,  about 


THE   MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN   GARDENING.  35 

twelve  feet  wide,  and  two  and  a  half  deep.  The  length  must  be 
determined  by  the  number  of  frames  to  be  employed  ;  the  dung 
should  be  worked  up  in  the  centre  of  the  pit,  allowing  a  space  of 
two  feet  and  a  half  on  each  side,  for  the  purpose  of  admitting  fresh 
linings  of  dung  when  required.  The  size  of  the  lights  for  early 
melons,  should  be  five  feet  long,  by  three  broad ;  but  for  others, 
they  will  be  required  six  feet  by  four. 

The  most  convenient  mode  of  making  a  hot-bed,  is  to  let  the 
earth  be  first  laid  in  an  inclined  plane  of  about  15  degrees,  laying 
the  dung  and  mould  parallel  with  it ;  and  the  frame  should  also  be 
equally  high  on  both  sides,  taking  its  slope  towards  the  south,  from 
the  elevation  of  the  earth  ;  this  prevents  the  plants  at  the  back  of 
the  frame  being  too  far  from  the  glass,  and  the  plants  and  mould 
of  the  bed  are  regularly  exposed  to  the  influence  of  the  sun.  In 
'order  to  earth  the  bed  on  which  the  seed  is  to  be  sown,  you  should 
have  a  proper  supply  of  rich,  light  earth,  made  properly  dry,  com- 
posed of  light  maiden  loam,  leaf  mould,  and  well-rotted  dung,  in 
equal  proportions,  which  should  be  previously  prepared  and  kept 
ready  for  use  when  wanted. 

Three  or  four  days  after  the  bed  is  made,  is  the  proper  time  to 
earth  it,  observing  if  it  has  settled  equally,  to  take  off  the  frame 
and  glasses,  and  level  any  inequalities;  then  make  the  surface 
smooth,  and  put  on  the  frame  again,  and  lay  therein  as  much  of  the 
above-mentioned  earth,  as  will  cover  the  whole  surface  of  the  bed, 
about  three  or  four  inches  thick;  then  fill  three  or  more  small  gar- 
den pots  with  some  of  the  rich  earth  just  described;  place  these 
pots  within  the  frame,  and  put  on  the  glass,  letting  them  remain 
till  the  earth  in  the  pots  is  warm.  Then  sow  seeds  in  the  pots 
according  to  the  quantity  of  plants  required,  covering  the  seeds 
about  half  an  inch  deep ;  pots  used  for  this  purpose,  must  be  per- 
fectly clean  and  dry;  or  the  balls  containing  the  roots  will  not 
turn  out  well.  Old  seed  is  the  best;  that  from  ten  to  twenty  years 
old  is  preferred. 

When  the  seeds  are  sown,  place  the  pots  towards  the  middle  of 
the  bed,  plunging  the  bottom  part  a  little  way  into  the  earth,  draw- 
ing up  some  of  the  mould  round  each  pot;  either  at  the  same  time 
or  two  or  three  days  afterwards,  you  may  sow  a  few  seeds  in  the 
earth  of  the  bed  to  have  a  double  chance;  by  sowing  in  pots,  you 
have  this  advantage — if  the  bed  should  heat  too  violently,  as  is 
sometimes  unavoidably  the  case,  the  pots  can  be  drawn  up  more  or 
less  out  of  the  danger  of  the  heated  earth  :  this  gives  the  sowing 
in  pots  the  advantage  over  sowing  in  the  earth  of  a  new-made  hot- 
bed. 

Close  the  lights,  and  when  the  steam  rises  copiously,  give  it 
vent  by  raising  one  corner  of  the  upper  end  of  the  lights,  from 
half  an  inch  to  an  inch,  to  prevent  burning.  The  Melon  requires 
a  minimum  heat  of  about  65  degrees  of  Fahrenheit,  from  the  time 
of  germination,  till  that  of  fructification,  and  a  heat  of  about  75 


36  THE   MANUAL    OF   KITCHEN  GARDENING. 

degrees  to  fruit  it.  During  January,  and  longer  if  the  weather  is 
severe,  cover  the  lights  of  the  melon  frames  every  evening  about 
an  hour  before  sun-set  -with  garden-mats,  and  do  not  uncover  them 
before  nine  in  the  morning.  While  the  strong  heat  and  steam  of 
the  frame  remains,  it  may  be  as  well  to  cover  wiih  only  a  single 
mat  in  the  evening  for  the  first  three  or  four  nights,  but  as  the  heat 
decreases,  increase  the  covering,  being  careful  not  to  let  the  ends 
of  the  mats  hang  doMn  far  below  the  frame,  over  the  sides  of  the 
bed,  as  that  would  draw  up  a  hurtful  strong  steam  from  the  dung, 
and  confine  the  heat  too  much,  causing  the  plants  to  come  up 
weakly,  and  appear  of  a  sickly  yellowish  hue.  During  the  strong 
heat,  when  the  mats  are  put  on  in  the  evening,  it  would  be  proper 
to  raise  the  upper  end  of  the  lights  about  half  an  inch,  occasion- 
ally, to  let  out  the  rank  steam  and  admit  fresh  air,  letting  one  of  the 
mats  hang  dov.n  a  little  way  over  the  open  part,  to  prevent  the  ex- 
ternal air  from  rushing  suddenly  into  the  frame,  particularly  after 
the  plants  begin  to  advance. 

It  is  necessary  to  take  great  care  that  the  earth  in  the  pots  have 
not  too  much  heat,  and  it  is  requisite  to  examine  the  temperature 
of  the  hot-bed  every  day,  to  ascertain  this.  For  this  purpose,  as 
soon  as  the  hot-bed  is  made,  a  straight  stick,  about  three  feet  long, 
and  about  one  inch  diameter,  should  be  thrust  into  the  dung  in  the 
middle  of  the  hot-bed,  from  behind,  to  be  frequently  pulled  out 
and  examined,  until  the  great  heat  begins  to  decline,  and  if  any 
appearance  of  burning  is  visible  on  the  stick,  you  may  readily  raise 
the  pots  higher  above  the  dung,  without  disturbing  either  the  seeds 
or  plants.  In  two  or  three  days  after  the  seed  is  sown  you  may 
expect  the  plants  to  appear,  and  then  it  is  proper  to  admit  Iresh  air 
to  them,  raising  the  upper  end  of  the  frame  an  inch  or  two  every 
day;  place  a  liitle  water  in  a  watering-pot  within  the  frame  all 
night,  and  if  the  earth  in  the  pots  appears  at  all  dry  refresh  it  by 
watering  with  some  of  this  chilled  water  at  about  noon,  or  a  little 
before,  putting  the  water  principally  about  the  roots  of  the  plants, 
by  no  means  wetting  the  tops ;  this  done,  close  the  glasses  for 
about  half  an  hour,  or  an  hour,  and  then  open  them  again  for  a 
lilile  time,  then  shut  them  close  towards  the  evening,  and  continue 
to  cover  the  glass  every  night  with  garden-mats.  When  the  heat 
is  moderate  the  glasses  may  be  shut  close  every  night,  admitting 
fresh  air,  sun,  and  daylight  every  morning,  and  be  careful  to  admit 
fresh  air  at  all  opportunities  in  the  daytime,  or  the  plants  will  be- 
come very  long  and  weak.  On  the  first  day  the  plants  appear,  sow 
a  little  more  seed  in  the  same  bed,  repeating  this  three  times  ;  for 
as  these  plants  are  very  tender,  it  is  desirable  to  have  some  more 
seed  coming  forward,  lest  those  first  sown  should  fail.  When  the 
plants  are  three  or  four  days  old,  they  should  be  planted  in  small 
pots,  which  should  be  filled,  the  day  before  3'ou  intend  to  remove 
the  plants,  with  some  rich  dry  earth,  and  set  within  the  frame  till 
the  next  day  when  the  earth  will  be  warm  ;  then  take  the  plants 


THE   MANUAL    OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING.  37 

up  in  the  seed  pots,  raising  them  as  carefully  as  possible,  keeping 
the  roots  entire,  and  with  as  much  earth  as  possible  adhering  about 
the  fibres.  The  earth  in  the  pots,  which  are  to  receive  the  plants, 
should  be  formed  a  little  hollow,  for  a  small  depth,  and  the  plants 
must  be  placed  in  the  hollowed  part  of  the  earth  slopingly,  with 
their  roots  towards  the  centre.  The  roots  and  stems  must  be  cov- 
ered with  earth  about  an  inch  thick  ;  one  or  two  plants  only  must 
be  placed  in  each  pot,  and  if  the  earth  be  quite  dry,  give  each 
plant  a  very  little  water,  at  the  roots  only;  then  plunge  the  pots 
into  the  earth  on  the  bed  close  to  one  another,  and  fill  up  all  the 
spaces  between  them  with  earth,  and  let  every  part  of  the  bed 
■within  the  frame  be  covered  with  as  much  earth  as  will  prevent  the 
rising  of  the  rank  steam  immediately  from  the  dung  which  would 
kill  the  plants.  That  the  seedlings*may  be  moved  with  more 
safety,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  place  small  nobules  of  rotten  dung  on 
the  surface  of  the  seed-pot,  on  each  side  of  which  lay  a  single  seed 
and  cover  it  up,  the  roots  will  fix  themselves  on  the  dung,  and  will 
thus  be  easily  removed.  The  plants  will  have  taken  root  in  two 
or  three  days  after  planting,  if  the  bed  be  in  good  condition,  and  it 
is  sometimes  effected  in  twenty-four  hours.  When  they  are  rooted,  ^ 
if  the  earth  appears  dry  give  them  a  little  slightly  warm  water  in  '^ 
the  warmest  time  of  the  day,  and  if  the  sun  shines,  so  much  the 
better ;  repeat  this  watering  very  moderately,  as  the  earth  in  the 
pots  becomes  dry,  and  always  use  soft  water  which  has  stood 
within  the  frame  a  few  hours. 

While  there  is  a  brisk  growing  heat  in  the  frame,  and  in  order 
to  preserve  it  as  long  as  possible,  apply  some  outward  protection, 
such  as  long  stable  litter,  straw,  waste  hay,  or  dried  fern,  round 
the  sides  of  the  bed,  raising  it  by  degrees  round  the  outsides  of  the 
frame,  to  defend  from  cold  piercing  winds,  or  driving  rains  or  snow, 
which  would  otherwise  chill  the  bed  and  give  the  plants  a  great 
check.  If  a  lively  heat  remains,  you  may  admit  air  to  the  plants 
every  day  to  strengthen  their  growth,  by  tilting  the  glasses  in  pro- 
portion to  the  heat  of  the  bed  and  temperature  of  the  external  air, 
but  when  there  happens  to  be  a  sharp  wind  it  will  still  be  advisable 
to  hang  a  garden  mat  from  the  upper  part  of  the  glasses,  so  as  to 
fall  over  the  part  that  is  left  open  to  admit  the  air;  let  it  be  sup- 
ported or  hang  a  little  hollow  from  the  frame,  and  thus  it  will  pre- 
vent cutting  winds  from  entering  immediately ;  but  in  calm  mod- 
erate weather  this  is  not  requisite.  In  about  a  fortnight  after  the 
bed  is  made,  carefully  examine  if  the  heat  begins  considerably  to 
decline,  and  if  this  should  be  the  case,  remove  the  temporary  pro* 
tection  of  straw,  hay,  or  fern,  if  any  has  been  laid,  and  replace  it 
by  a  lining  of  fresh  prepared  horse-dung,  close  to  one  or  both  sides 
as  it  may  be  necessary,  as  a  regular  degree  of  internal  heat  must 
be  supported  to  resist  the  external  cold,  and  continue  the  plants  in 
a  proper  state  of  advancing  growth.  If  the  heat  has  not  greatly 
subsided,  it  is  advisable  to  line  only  one  side,  first  applying  thd 
4 


9$  THE   MANUAL    OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING. 

dung  to  the  back  of  the  bed,  and  in  a  week  or  fortnight  aftei  line 
the  front,  &c. ;  form  the  lining  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches 
wide,  raise  it  very  little  higher  than  the  dung  of  the  bed,  lest  it 
throw  in  too  much  heat  to  the  earth  and  the  roots  of  the  plants ; 
the  top  of  this  fresh  dung  should  be  covered  with  earth  two  inches 
thick,  to  preserve  the  heat  and  prevent  the  rank  steam  of  the  new 
dung  from  entering  the  frame,  which  would  prove  destructive  ;  this 
lining  will  greatly  revive  the  heat  of  the  bed,  and  keep  it  in  good 
condition  a  fortnight  longer.  At  intervals  of  ten  or  twelve  days, 
proceed  to  treat  the  remaining  side  and  ends  of  the  frame  in  the 
same  manner  ;  after  applying  these  successive  linings,  if  the  weath- 
er should  still  continue  very  cold,  wet,  or  snowy,  it  may  be  advisa- 
ble to  lay  a  quantity  of  dry  long  litter  all  round  the  general  lining, 
which  will  protect  the  whole  from  driving  cold  rains  and  snow, 
and  preserve  the  heat  of  the  bed  at  a  fine  growing  temperature  ;  be 
careful,  however,  not  to  draw  up  the  steam  of  the  lining  into  the 
frame  by  this  covering,  and  do  not  allow  the  covering-mats  to  ex- 
tend over  it.  By  applying  these  linings  of  hot  dung  in  due  time, 
and  by  renewing  them  as  there  shall  be  occasion,  you  may  preserve 
the  bed  at  a  warm  temperature  for  a  sufficient  time  to  keep  the 
plants  in  a  fine  growing  state,  till  they  are  of  a  proper  size  for 
ridging  out  into  the  larger  hot-bed,  where  they  are  to  remain  to 
produce  their  fruit.  When  the  plants  have  advanced  in  growth 
with  their  two  first  leaves  about  two  or  three  inches  broad,  and 
they  have  pushed  their  two  first  running-buds  in  the  centre,  or  are 
a  little  advanced  in  the  formation  of  one  or  two  short  runners,  they 
are  of  a  right  size  for  ridging  out  into  the  large  hot-beds,  which 
will  generally  be  before  the  end  of  February.  To  strengthen  the 
plant  and  promote  the  growth  of  fruitful  runners,  each  plant  must 
be  stopped,  as  the  gardeners  term  it — that  is,  the  top  of  the  first 
advancing  runner  should  be  pinched,  or  cut  off,  close  to  the  joint. 

This  operation  should  be  performed  when  the  second  rough  leaf 
is  about  the  breadth  of  a  shilling;  you  will  then  see,  in  the  centre 
of  the  plant,  at  the  bottom  of  this  leaf,  and  as  it  were  inclosed 
within  it,  the  end  of  the  first  runner  like  a  bud  ;  this  must  be  taken 
off  close,  either  with  the  point  of  a  knife  or  scissors,  or  else  pinched 
carefully  off  by  the  fingers,  taking  care  not  to  wound  the  joint ; 
this  will  strengthen  the  plant,  and  in  about  ten  or  twelve  days  it 
will  send  forth  two  or  three  runners,  which  will  probably  show 
fruit  at  their  second  and  third  joints ;  but  if  the  first  or  main  run- 
ner was  not  stopped,  it  would  run  perhaps  two  feet  without  throw- 
ing out  any  more  runners,  or  showing  a  single  blossom  ;  and  when 
the  lateral  shoots  have  three  joints,  and  do  not  show  fruit  at  either 
of  the  joints,  it  will  be  proper  to  pinch  oflf  the  tops  of  such  of  the 
shoots  also  at  the  third  joint,  to  promote  the  putting  out  a  good 
supply  of  new  shoots,  some,  or  all  of  which,  will  most  probably 
be  fruitful. 

In  ridging  out  Melons,  it  will  be  proper  to  be  provided  by  the 


THE   MANUAL    OP   KITCHEN  GARDENING.  89 

middle  or  latter  end  of  February  with  a  large  hot-bed,  in  which 
the  plants  are  to  remain.  You  will  require  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
fresh  horse-stable  dung,  which  has  laid  some  time,  but  moderately- 
fresh,  abounding  in  a  good  moist  steamy  heat,  taking  the  short  and 
long  dung  together  as  it  comes  ;  making  the  bed  three  feet  and  a 
half  high,  and  for  that  size  the  proper  quantity  is  one  tolerable  cart- 
load to  every  light.  Begin  the  bed,  by  shaking  some  of  the  long- 
est dung  into  the  bottom,  then  fork  it  in  equally  on  every  part,  and 
beat  it  down  with  the  fork  as  you  go  on.  In  this  way  let  the  bed 
be  carried  up  nearly  three  feet  and  a  half  high.  When  the  bed  is 
finished,  put  on  the  frame  or  lights  to  defend  it  from  wet,  and  to 
bring  the  heat  up  the  sooner ;  the  upper  end  of  the  lighfs  must  be 
tilted  a  little,  to  let  the  steam  escape.  When  the  bed  has  been 
made  a  week,  if  it  has  settled  down  unequally,  take  off  the  frame 
and  make  the  bed  level,  putting  on  the  frame  immediately  after- 
wards to  remain.  When  you  find  that  the  violent  heat  has  sub- 
sided, but  not  before,  put  in  the  earth — the  proper  kind  employed  for 
this  purpose  should  be  rich  and  dry.  When  the  bed  is  arranged, 
lay  about  half  a  bushel  of  earth  just  under  the  middle  of  each 
light,  raising  it  up  in  a  round  hillock  ten  or  twelve  inches  high ; 
then  let  the  spaces  between  the  hillocks  and  sides  of  the  frames 
be  covered  with  the  same  sort  of  earth,  only  about  two  or  three 
inches  thick,  while  the  bed  is  in  strong  heat;  but,  when  it  has 
moderated,  it  is  to  be  raised  by  degrees  to  the  height  of  the  hills. 
The  reason  for  laying  the  earth  in  little  hills,  and  not  earthing  the 
bed  fully  at  once,  is  by  w^ay  of  precaution  against  violent  after- 
heat  ;  as  by  this  means  it  will  more  readily  pass  off  in  steam  be- 
tween the  hills ;  thus  we  may  venture  to  use  the  bed  some  days 
sooner  than  if  it  was  earthed  all  over  at  once  to  the  full  thickness  : 
for  if  the  earth  should  burn  after  the  plants  are  in,  you  can  more 
readily  prevent  the  earth  thus  raised  up,  and  also  the  roots  of  the 
plants,  from  burning,  by  drawing  the  earth  away  from  round  the 
bottom  of  the  hills,  and  supplying  the  places  with  more  fresh 
mould  ;  then  put  on  the  glasses,  and  by  the  next  day  these  hillocks 
will  most  probably  be  warm ;  in  that  case,  level  the  top  of  each  a 
little,  so  that  they  may  be  about  eight  or  ten  inches  thick,  and  then 
put  in  the  plants,  which  we  before  directed  to  be  placed  two  in  a 
pot ;  they  must  be  turned  out  of  the  pot  with  the  ball  of  earth 
entire,  and  one  pot  of  plants  be  placed  in  each  hillock  ;  but  it  would 
be  advisable  to  select  the  strongest  and  most  healthy  plant  of 
each  pot  only,  cutting  off  the  other  close  to  the  earth.  In  order  to 
have  the  whole  ball  entire,  give  the  plants  a  little  water  the  day 
before;  when  you  turn  the  plants  out,  place  your  hand  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  pot,  taking  the  stem  of  the  plant  carefully  between 
your  fingers,  then  turn  the  mouth  of  the  pot  downwards,  and  strike 
the  rim  gently  on  the  frame, — the  plants,  with  the  ball  of  earth  to 
their  roots,  will  then  come  out  clean.  Make  a  hole  in  the  middle 
of  each  hill  of  earth,  place  one  plant  (that  is,  supposing  you  have 


40  THE   MANUAL   OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING. 

destroyed  the  second  plant,  as  just  directed)  with  the  ball  of  earth 
to  the  roots  in  each  hole,  closing  the  earth  well  round  the  hall, 
cover  it  about  an  inch  over  the  top,  and  bring  the  earth  close  round 
the  stem  ;  then  give  a  very  moderate  supply  of  water,  pour  it  to- 
wards the  outside  of  the  ball  of  earth  ;  when  you  have  thus  turned 
out  the  plants,  shut  the  lights  close  down,  till  the  heat  rises  again 
strongly,  then  tilt  the  light  a  little  behind  to  give  vent. 

When  the  plants  are  thus  ridged  out,  the  lights  must  be  covered 
every  night  with  mats,  and  air  must  be  admitted  every  morning 
when  the  weather  is  favourable,  by  raising  the  upper  end  of  the 
glasses  from  about  half  an  inch  to  an  inch  or  two,  in  proportion  to 
the  sharpness  or  mildness  of  the  weather,  or  the  internal  steam  of 
the  bed.  The  principal  thing  to  be  attended  to  now,  is  to  support 
a  constant  heat  in  the  bed,  so  as  to  keep  the  plants  in  a  regularly 
growing  state. 

In  a  little  more  than  a  week  after  ridging  out,  it  will  probably  be 
necessary  to  give  some  outward  protection,  of  dry  long  litter,  &c., 
laying  it  close  round  the  sides  nearly  a  foot  thick,  and  as  high  as 
five  or  six  inches  up  the  sides  of  the  frame,  and  particularly  attend- 
ing to  it  in  wet,  cold  or  snowy  weather.  In  about  three  weeks  or 
a  month  it  will  be  requisite  to  renew  the  heat  by  fresh  dung  as  be- 
fore directed.  For  the  first  week  or  ten  days  after  the  plants  are 
ridged  out,  take  care  that  their  roots  do  not  get  too  much  heat,  by 
examining  the  bottoms  of  the  hillocks  at  times,  drawing  away  a 
little 'of  the  earth  below;  and  if  any  burning  appears,  remove  the 
burnt  earth  and  replace  it  by  some  fresh,  draw  some  of  the  earth 
away  round  the  hills,  and  let  these  be  kept  so  narrow  that  they 
will  only  just  support  the  plants,  and  continue  them  so  till  the 
danger  of  their  burning  is  over,  then  put  the  earth  back  again. 
"W'hen  the  heat  abates  or  the  roots  of  the  plants  begin  to  appear 
through  the  sides  of  the  hills  of  earth,  lay  some  fresh,  light  and 
rich  earth  that  has  previously  lain  a  night  in  the  frame  against  the 
sides,  all  round  them,  and  again  in  three  days  you  may  lay  some 
more  of  the  same  warmed  earth ;  in  three  or  four  days  after  that 
you  may  earth  the  bed  all  over  to  the  full  thickness,  that  is,  make 
it  all  equal  with  the  tops  of  the  hillocks. 

The  plants  must  be  trained,  as  they  advance  in  growth,  in  regu- 
lar order:  cut  out  very  weakly  vines  and  thin  those  which  are 
crowded.  Some  seed  may  be  also  sown  to  supply  any  accidents, 
and  when  fit  to  prick  out,  the  plants  may  be  placed  in  small  pots 
as  before  directed,  and  plunged  in  the  back  part  of  the  bed. 

Melons,  which  are  designed  to  continue  under  bell  or  hand- 
glasses, must  be  sown  in  the  hot-bed  in  the  latter  part  of  March, 
and  they  will  be  ready  for  ridging  out  in  the  latter  end  of  April,  or 
beginning  of  May. 

When  the  Melons  are  about  setting  their  fruit,  they  must  be 
watered  very  sparingly,  as  much  humidity  retards  the  setting,  and 
prevents  the  fruit  from  swelling  freely.     Let  decayed  flowers  and 


THE   MANUAL   OF   KITCHEN  GARDENING.  41 

damaged  leaves  be  taken  off  as  soon  as  they  appear.  As  the 
spring  advances  it  will  be  proper  to  shade  the  plants  for  two  or 
three  hours  during  the  greatest  heat,  with  a  thin  mat  or  a  little 
loose  hay  strewed  thinly  over  the  glasses.  The  male  flowers  are 
sometimes  erroneously  called  false  blossoms,  but  they  are  essential 
to  the  growth  of  the  fruit,  as  these  flowers  contain  the  farina,  with- 
out being  impregnated  with  which  the  infant  fruit  turns  yellow, 
withers  and  drops  ofl*.  Therefore  it  is  of  importance  to  preserve  a 
sufficiency  of  male  blossoms.  Covering  over  the  glasses  with 
mats  must  be  continued  at  night  till  the  end  of  May  or  the  middle 
of  June,  according  to  the  season. 

In  May  the  fruit  will  begin  to  set,  and  it  then  requires  particular 
care,  principally  to  keep  up  a  regular  supply  of  heat  by  occasional 
linings  of  hot  dung,  which  must  be  continued  for  some  time  after 
the  fruit  has  begun  to  set,  for  cold  winds  and  cutting  nights  are 
common  all  through  May,  even  when  there  has  been  very  warm 
days,  and  these  must  be  guarded  against.  Once  a  week  or  ten 
days  will  generally  be  found  often  enough  to  water  the  Melons,  as 
too  much  moisture  chills  them  and  prevents  the  fruit  from  swelling. 
The  Melon  plants  under  bell  or  hand-glasses,  are  managed  in  every 
respect  the  same  as  those  in  a  hot-bed,  except  that  they  are  ridged 
out  later,  and  produce  their  full  crop  of  fruit  about  August  or  Sep- 
tember. When  any  of  the  plants  have  filled  the  bell  or  hand- 
glasses, the  runners  must  have  liberty  to  escape  from  under  them, 
but  they  must  not  be  permitted  to  do  this  before  the  middle  or  latter 
end  of  June.  When  the  vines  are  trained  from  under  the  hand- 
glasses, it  would  be  advantageous  to  place  oiled  paper  frames  oVer 
the  beds,  first  removing  the  hand-glasses.  Let  the  paper  frames 
remain  over  them  night  and  day,  and  admit  the  light  and  heat  of 
the  sun  when  available. 

When  the  weather  happens  to  be  very  wet  in  July,  which  is 
frequently  the  case,  the  Melon  plants  must  be  carefully  preserved 
from  the  effects  of  this  humidity.  Those  in  frames  are  easily  pro- 
tected, but  those  under  bell  or  hand-glasses  will  require  particular 
attention. 

A  second  crop  of  Melons  may  sometimes  be  raised  from  cuttings 
taken  from  the  extremities  of  the  shoots  which  show  the  most  fruit. 
These  cuttings  should  have  two  advanced  joints,  prepared  by 
taking  oflT  the  tw^o  largest  leaves  at  the  bottom.  Insert  these  cut- 
tings in  pots,  placing  two  in  each  pot;  water  and  plunge  them  into 
a  hot-bed  ;  keep  the  frame  close  and  shaded  ;  in  a  week  the  cut- 
tings will  have  struck.  The  old  Melon  plants  with  the  soil  in 
which  they  grew  are  now  to  be  cleared  out  of  the  frame,  fresh  soil 
is  to  be  put  in,  and  the  bed  well  lined ;  the  cuttings  are  to  be  treat- 
ed precisely  like  young  plants.  When  they  have  pushed  about 
four  inches,  stop  them,  and  fresh  runners  will  be  produced,  which 
will  bear  abundantly. 

In  dry  weather  Melons  are  very  apt  to  be  infested  with  an  insect 
4* 


42  THE   MANUAL    OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING. 

called  the  red  spider,  and  you  may  observe  symptoms  of  their  pre- 
sence long  before  they  are  visible  to  the  naked  eye.  Whenever 
you  observe  the  leaves  curling  and  cracking  in  the  middle  in  fine 
varm  sunny  weather,  you  may  water  them  all  over  the  leaves  from 
a  watering-pot  or  engine  about  six  in  the  morning,  and  about  eight 
o'clock,  shade  them  with  mats,  if  the  sun  shines,  keeping  the  frame 
shut  close  till  about  eleven;  then  admit  a  small  quantity  of  air, 
letting  the  mats  remain  till  about  three  in  the  afternoon,  when  they 
should  be  taken  off.  Shading  with  mats  will  prevent  the  leaves 
from  being  scorched  by  the  sun  while  they  are  wet.  If  the  wind 
be  south  or  south-west,  you  may  water  them  again  about  three  in 
the  afternoon,  shutting  them  up  close  to  keep  the  heat  in  :  this  will 
cause  a  strong  exhalation  and  destroy  the  spiders,  as  they  by  no 
means  love  moisture.  When  watering,  throw  as  much  as  possible 
on  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves,  as  it  is  there  the  insects  generally 
lodge;  the  vines  maybe  gently  turned  for  this  purpose,  taking 
great  care  not  to  hurt  them ;  the  water  must  be  thrown  on  in  a 
gentle  shower,  so  as  not  to  w'ash  up  the  mould  on  the  plants  :  at 
the  same  time  throw  plenty  of  water  on  the  lights  and  sides  of  the 
boxes.  When  you  have  done  watering,  lay  the  vines  gently  down 
again.  If  it  be  sunny,  let  the  mats  remain  on  till  the  leaves  are 
perfectly  dry,  admitting  air  according  to  the  heat  of  the  day.  These 
insects  may  also  be  killed  with  the  fumes  of  sulphur,  urine,  &c., 
raised  from  a  flue,  or  boiling  hot  liquor  in  a  vessel.  When  old 
frames  and  lights  are  used,  they  must  be  washed  well  both  inside 
and  out,  first  with  clean  soft  water,  and  then  with  soap  suds  and 
urine  mixed,  using  a  brush  or  woollen  rag  for  the  purpose.  This 
■will  kill  the  eggs  of  the  spiders  and  other  insects  that  may  have 
bf  en  deposited  the  preceding  season. 

Mushrooms. — At  the  close  of  summer  (20th  Aug.)  take  some 
stable-dung  that  is  not  fresh  and  fiery,  or,  if  no  other  can  be  pro- 
cured, mix  with  it  an  equal  quantity  of  old  hot-bed  lining;  turn 
and  mix  them  well  together,  and  throw  it  up  in  a  compact  heap  to 
ferment.  As  early  as  possible  in  September,  when  the  dung  is 
sufficiently  fermented,  and  has  lost  all  the  disaareeable  efl^uvia, 
mark  out  a  bed  in  any  dry,  warm  situation.  Three  or  four  feet 
will  be  quite  wide  enough.  The  length  must  be  regulated  accord- 
ing to  the  quantity  of  Mushrooms  which  it  is  intended  to  grow.  A 
shed  with  a  southern  aspect,  or  at  the  back  of  hot-houses  in  which 
fires  are  kept,  would  be  a  very  eligible  place  for  abed.  The  dung 
must  be  well  shaken  up,  and  if  it  be  long,  it  must  be  beaten  well, 
only  it  must  be  kept  drawn  in  by  degrees,  until  it  assume  the  shape 
of  the  roof  of  a  house :  it  must  not  only  be  beaten  at  the  top,  as  it 
is  gradually  carried  up,  but  it  must  be  particularly  beaten  at  the 
sides,  for  it  is  there  that  the  bed  must  be  perfectly  even  and  firm. 
Having  in  this  manner  finished  the  bed,  it  must  be  protected  not 
only  from  the  rains,  but  from'the  sun,  by  covering  it  over  with  long 
straw,  old  thatch,  or  mess,  for  the  bed  must  be  neither  too  wet  nor 


THE   MANUAL    OP   KITCHEN   GARDENING.  43 

too  dry.  It  must  remain  in  this  state  for  about  a  week,  or  until  the 
fermentation  has  moderated  to  about  blood-heat.  Then  put  on  a 
layer  of  strong,  rich,  fresh  mould,  about  two  inches  thick,  in  which 
some  holes  must  be  made  about  eight  inches  apart  every  way. 
Into  each  of  these  holes  put  some  little  pieces  of  spawn  of  Mush- 
rooms, which  must  be  covered  over  with  a  layer  of  mould  about 
an  inch  in  thickness,  and  beaten  down  smoothly  with  a  spade. 
The  covering  of  straw  or  matting  must  still  be  kept  over  the  bed, 
for  it  must  not  be  exposed  immoderately  to  either  the  sun  or  the 
rain.  Success  now  greatly  depends  upon  the  proper  moisture  of 
the  bed.  If.  in  summer-time,  the  covering  must  now  and  then  be 
taken  off,  to  admit  of  gentle  show'ers  falling  upon  it,  or,  if  in  a 
very  dry  season,  it  should  be  gently  watered  with  luke-warm  water. 
The  spawn  should  be  dry,  with  a  pleasant  smell,  like  a  good  Mush- 
room ;  not  advanced  into  white  threads,  similar  to  the  spawn  which 
is  collected  in  the  fields,  but  having  a  small  spotted  whitish  ap- 
pearance. In  a  month  or  five  weeks,  the  young  Mushrooms  will 
begin  to  appear,  w^hen,  if  the  clay  appears  dry,  and  the  weather 
mild,  a  liberal  supply  of  tepid  water  should  be  given.  In  fine 
weather,  the  covering  should  be  taken  oft'  for  a  few  hours,  which 
has  a  tendency  to  keep  the  bed  in  a  healthy  state,  but,  should  the 
weather  be  cold,  a  few  minutes  will  be  sufficient. 

The  covering  must  in  all  cases  be  regulated  according  to  the 
temperature  of  the  atmosphere,  being  increased  or  diminished  from 
three  to  eighteen  or  twenty-four  inches. 

The  following  is  the  method  of  making  Mushroom  spawn :  In 
June  or  July,  to  any  portion  of  fresh  horse-droppings,  mixed  with 
short  litter,  add  one-third  of  cow-dung,  and  a  small  quantity  of 
mould  to  cement  it ;  mash  the  whole  into  a  thin  compost,  and  spread 
it  on  the  floor  of  an  open  shed,  until  it  becomes  firm  enough  to 
make  flat  square  bricks,  which  being  done,  set  them  on  edge,  and 
frequently  turn  them  until  half  dry ;  then  \yith  a  dibble  make  two 
holes  in  each  brick,  and  insert  in  each  hole  a  piece  of  good  old 
spawn,  the  size  of  a  walnut ;  the  bricks  should  then  remain  until 
they  be  dry.  This  being  completed,  level  the  surface  of  a  piece, 
of  ground,  if  the  floor  of  a  shed  or  house  be  not  convenient,  three 
feet  wide,  and  of  length  sufficient  to  receive  the  bricks,  on  which 
lay  a  bottom  of  dry  horse-dung,  six  inches  thick;  then  form  a  pile, 
by  placing  in  rows  the  bricks  one  upon  another,  the  spawned  side 
being  uppermost,  until  the  pile  be  three  feet  high ;  next  cover  it 
with  a  small  portion  of  warm  horse-dung,  sufficient  in  quantity  to 
effuse  a  gentle  heat  throughout  the  whole.  When  the  spawn  has 
spread  itself  through  every  part  of  the  bricks,  the  process  is  ended, 
and  they  must  be  laid  up  in  a  dry  place  for  use.  Spawn  made  in 
this  manner,  if  well  dried  before  spring,  will  preserve  its  proper- 
ties for  many  years. 

A  very  ready  mode  of  having  Mushrooms  all  the  winter  is,  by 
taking  the  earth  of  an  old  hot-bed,  turning  the  dung,  and,  if  without 


44  THE    MANUAL    OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING. 

heat,  adding  some  fresh  stable-litler.  Let  the  frame  and  glasses 
be  replaced,  and  the  bed  is  fit.  Spawn  it,  and,  to  insure  a  good 
return,  add  linintrs  of  hot  dung,  but  be  careful  not  to  over-heat. 
As  the  weather  becomes  cold,  cover  the  bed  and  glasses  with  hay, 
hut  admit  air  and  light  when  it  permits.  Soft  dry  hay  is  best  next 
the  earth.-  Be  careful  not  to  give  too  much  water,  particularly  in 
the  winter  months,  to  avoid  chilling  the  beds. 

Mushroom  beds  may  be  made  in  October,  November,  and  De- 
cember, and,  if  necessary,  in  the  spring. 

Ajlstard. — The  seeds  of  Mustard  soon  vegetate  in  almost  any 
temperature,  and  will  arrive  at  perfection  in  any  light  soil.  Rotten 
tan  and  vegetable  mould  are  most  generally  used  for  this  purpose, 
upon  which  the  seeds  are  sown  rather  thickly,  and  sometimes  co- 
vered with  half  an  inch  of  the  same  sort  of  mould,  or  left  uncovered  : 
by  the  latter  plan,  they  are  less  liable  to  be  gritty,  or  have  earthy 
particles  mixed  with  them  which  are  not  easily  washed  out.  There 
are  two  methods  of  procuring  this  wholesome  salad,  viz.  natural 
and  forcing: — the  former  consists  simply  in  making  a  shallow  drill, 
in  which  the  seed  is  sown,  and  then  covered  with  a  light,  thin 
layer  of  fine  mould,  due  precaution  being  taken  to  protect  the  seeds 
from  the  ravages  of  the  birds.  Water  is  indispensable  for  the  ve- 
getation of  this  seed.  For  the  forcing  of  mustard  and  cress,  boxes 
of  about  four  or  five  inches  deep,  one  foot  broad,  and  of  any  con- 
venient length,  are  used,  which  are  potted  with  any  light  mould, 
and  placed  over  the  flues,  or  in  a  slight  hot-bed.  The  seeds  are 
sown  in  them,  and  well  watered ;  in  a  few  days  the  salad  is  fit  for 
use:  one  box  of  the  above  size  sown  with  Mustard,  and  another 
with  cress,  will  produce  enough  for  any  ordinary  family  for  three 
days.  Where  the  consumption  is  great,  or  where  there  is  not  the 
convenience  of  hot-houses,  these  salads  may  be  produced  in  hot- 
beds put  up  purposely  of  dung  and  leaves  :  along  with  them  may 
also  be  sown  a  little  chervil,  rape,  or  any  other  salad  plants  of  like 
habits.  Cover  slightly  at  night  with  mats,  or  other  covering,  when 
the  weather  is  severe,  but  admit  as  much  light  as  possible,  by  re- 
moving the  covering  early  in  the  morning.  In  gathering  the  crop 
for  use,  whether  natural  or  forced,  it  should  not  be  pulled,  but  cut 
neatly  off  with  a  sharp  knife,  holding  the  tops  of  the  plants  in  one 
hand,  and  cutting  them  off  about  half  the  height  with  the  other. 
They  should  be  carefully  washed,  and  placed  in  a  clean  salad  bas- 
ket, but  not  allowed  to  remain  longer  in  the  water  than  is  necessary 
to  clear  them  of  any  particles  of  mould  that  may  be  attached  to 
them  ;  neither  should  they  be  gathered  long  before  using,  as  they 
will  lose  much  of  their  flavour  by  the  first,  and  soon  lose  their 
tenderness  by  the  second  mode. 

To  save  the  seed,  sow^  in  spring  in  rows  two  feet  apart ;  thin  the 
plants  to  six  inches  from  each  other,  and,  when  ripe,  cut,  dry,  and 
thresh  it.  A  row,  three  or  four  yards  long,  will  produce  an  abun- 
dance of  seed  for  one  year's  successive  sowings  for  a  family. 


THE  MANUAL    OP   KITCHEN  GARDENING.  45 

Nasturtium  may  be  sown  middle  of  spring  (15th  April),  either 
in  patches  or  in  a  bed  in  a  good  soil,  two  or  three  inches  apart, 
covering  the  seed  half  an  inch.  The  pod,  taken  before  the  seed 
becomes  ripe,  is  used  for  pickling.  The  plants  should  have  pretty 
long  bushy  sticks  put  to  them,  and  four  or  five  of  them  will  bear 
a  great  quantity  of  pods.  They  will  grow  in  almost  any  ground, 
but  the  better  the  ground,  the  fewer  of  them  are  necessary. 

Onions. — Onions  require  a  rich  mellow  soil  on  a  dry  sub-soil, 
and  are  an  exception  to  the  general  rule  of  never  cropping  the  same 
ground  successively  with  the  same  plant.  In  order  to  insure  a 
good  crop,  the  ground  should  have  a  deep  digging  in  the  winter, 
with  a  good  supply  of  manure,  laying  the  ground  up  as  rough  as 
possible,  so  as  to  present  as  large  a  portion  of  surface  to  the  action 
of  the  frost  and  rain  as  can  be  done.  Take  the  advantage  of  a  fine 
day  in  the  spring  (middle  of  March  to  middle  of  April),  when  the 
ground  is  dry,  to  point  over  or  slightly  dig  the  surface,  and  in  doing 
so,  break  the  clods  well  with  the  spade,  or  rake  the  surface  with  a 
large  rake,  as  the  operation  of  digging  proceeds.  Then,  when  the 
ground  is  in  good  order,  spread  on  it  some  very  short  and  rotten 
dung;  then  rake,  level  and  make  out  the  beds,  and  tread  them  well, 
first  fixing  the  line  on  one  side,  and  then  on  the  other,  leaving  the 
alley  as  free  and  loose  as  possible,  in  order  that  the  earth  may  be 
in  a  pulverised  state  to  cover  the  seed,  sown  pretty  thick,  about 
one-fourth  of  an  inch  deep ;  then  rake  the  beds  again  very  evenly, 
and  beat  them  smooth  with  the  back  of  the  spade.  Sea  sand, 
wheie  it  can  be  procured,  may  be  thrown  evenly  over  the  beds. 
Coal  ashes  are  also  frequently  used,  but  soot  is  far  the  best.  It 
should  be  shaken  plentifully  all  over  the  sowing :  even  when  the 
Onions  are  well  up  or  half  grown,  it  may  be  done  with  advantage. 

The  beds  should  be  carefully  weeded,  and,  when  the  plants  are 
about  three  inches  high,  thin  them  first  to  three  inches,  and  after- 
wards to  four,  six  or  eight  inches  apart.  It  is  important,  in  weed- 
ing Onions  with  the  carrot-hoe,  not  to  stir  the  earth  much,  or  raise 
it  round  the  plants,  which  will  prevent  them  forming  their  bulbs 
properly.  When  the  leaves  begin  to  lose  their  colour,  then  lay 
down  the  crop,  which  is  done  by  bending  the  stems  down  flat,  just 
above  the  bulb.  The  operation  may  be  performed  with  the  hand, 
but  much  time  is  saved  by  two  persons  Avith  a  pole,  or  the  handle 
of  a  rake,  each  holding  one  of  the  ends,  in  such  a  manner  as,  when 
walking  up  the  alleys,  to  strike  the  stems  about  an  inch  or  two 
above  the  bulb.  This  process,  which  is  called  "  laying  over,"  is 
of  great  benefit  to  all  crops  of  Onions,  as  the  growth  of  the  stem 
is  thereby  considerably  checked,  and  the  whole  nourishment  thrown 
into  the  bulb.  It  is  particularly  beneficial  to  the  late  crops  in  a  bad 
season,  for  a  stop  is  thereby  put  to  the  luxuriance  of  their  growth, 
and  they  are  consequently  in  a  great  degree  obliged  to  ripen. 

The  proper  time  to  take  up  the  crop  of  Onions,  is  soon  after  the 
tops  have  become  yellow :  they  must  be  spread  thinly  on  the 


46  THE    MANUAL    OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING. 

ground,  and,  if  the  weather  be  rainy,  it  would  be  more  advisable 
to  remove  them  into  a  gravel  walk,  or  to  a  space  covered  on  pur- 
pose with  sand  or  gravel,  and  exposed  to  the  full  influence  of  the 
sun.  They  must  be  turned  over  regularly  once  or  twice  a  day, 
until  they  be  thoroughly  dried,  and  then  stored  away  in  any  well- 
aired  loft,  barn,  &c.  If  they  be  here  spread  thickly,  they  must 
still  be  turned  occasionally,  or  they  may  be  strung  up  by  the  tails 
or  hung  in  nets.  If  it  be  not  intended  that  the  Onions  should  be 
strung,  the  better  plan  then  is,  before  they  are  housed,  to  deprive 
them  of  the  tails  as  well  as  tops. 

If  it  be  desired  to  have  very  large  Onions,  the  seed  should  be 
sown  very  thickly  in  the  spring,  in  a  good,  rich  soil.  At  mid- 
summer, when  they  will  have  ceased  to  grow,  the  bulbs  will  not 
be  larger  than  a  bean,  and  are  to  be  kept  for  planting  till  the  fol- 
lowing March  or  April  in  rows  or  drills  a  foot  apart,  and  from  eight 
to  ten  inches  between  the  sets.  They  must  only  be  pressed  a  little 
into  the  ground  with  the  finger,  and  no  earth  brought  up  to  cover 
the  bulb.  The  ground  must  be  kept  clear  from  weeds,  by  hoeing 
it  frequently  between  the  rows,  and  removing  those  by  hand  which 
come  up  between  the  plants,  and,  if  any  of  the  Onions  appear 
likely  to  run  to  seed,  the  roots  must  be  bent  down  as  before  direct- 
ed. In  this  manner,  they  will  grow  from  four  to  six  inches  in 
diameter. 

The  Yellow  Strasburg,  and  the  Silver  Skin,  arc  the  kinds  gene- 
rally preferred.  The  Red,  or  Annual,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  is  a 
good  keeping  sort,  and  where  the  seed  is  sown  with  the  intention 
of  raising  full-sized  roots  the  first  season,  it  is  perhaps  the  best. 

Okra. — The  Okra  is  a  native  of  the  West  Indies,  where  its 
green  seed-pods  are  much  used  in  soups  and  stews ;  it  is  now  a 
good  deal  cultivated  in  this  country,  and  its  use  is  rapidly  increas- 
ing, under  an  impression  that  its  mucilage  is  particularly  whole- 
some. There  are  two  varieties,  the  large  and  the  small  capsuled, 
but  no  essential  diflference  exists. 

Mode  of  cullvre.  —  The  seeds  are  planted  latter  part  of  spring 
(10th  to  15th  May),  an  inch  deep,  in  rows  or  drills,  three  feet  apart ; 
the  plants  should  not  stand  in  the  drills  nearer  than  eight  or  ten 
inches,  but  as  the  seeds  are  very  liable  to  rot,  to  insure  a  sufficiency 
it  is  necessary  to  scatter  them  pretty  thickly.  It  delights  in  rich 
soil,  inclining  to  dryness;  keep  them  well  hoed,  and  when  pretty 
well  grown,  draw  a  little  earth  around  the  stems.  In  gathering  for 
use,  choose  such  as  are  quite  tender,  for  if  they  be  the  least  hard 
or  sticky,  they  are  worthless.  The  ripe  seeds  of  the  Okra  are 
ground  and  used  as  coffee,  and  perhaps  more  nearly  resemble  the 
true  article  than  any  of  the  numerous  substitutes. 

PAReNEPS. — Early  in  the  spring  (15th  Alarch  to  1st  April)  pre- 
pare a  piece  of  ground  by  trenching  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet 
deep,  on  which  the  Parsnep  seed  is  to  be  sown.     Some  good  ma- 


THE   MANUAL    OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING.  47 

nure  should  be  spread  at  the  bottom  of  the  trench.  In  garden  cul- 
ture, it  will  be  found  to  attain  its  greatest  perfection  in  cottage 
gardens  in  chalky  countries,  and  should  be  cultivated  as  a  whole- 
some, nutritious  food.  They  should  not  be  sown  later  than  the 
latter  part  of  spring  (1st  May),  and  if  in  drills,  which  is  the  better 
plan,  from  four  to  six  inches  further  apart  than  the  carrot,  as  they 
require  more  room. 

In  all  other  respects  they  may  be  cultivated  precisely  in  the  same 
manner  as  carrots.  In  thinning,  they  should  first  be  left  in  pairs, 
and,  when  six  inches  high,  the  weakest  of  each  pair  must  be  taken 
up.  The  hollow  crowned,  or  sugar,  is  esteemed  the  best.  In  re- 
gard to  preservation  during  the  winter,  and  for  spring  use,  the 
Parsnep  stands  all  frost  without  injury,  and  even  with  benefit.  All 
that  is  required,  therefore,  is  to  put  up  only  as  many  as  are  likely 
to  be  wanted  during  a  hard  frost,  and  these  may  be  stored  in  the 
same  manner  as  directed  for  carrots  and  beets.  If  the  Parsneps 
are  to  stand  out  in  the  ground  all  the  winter,  the  greens  should  not 
be  cut  off  in  the  fall. 

Parsley — -This  vegetable  is  indigenous  to  Sardinia,  but  has 
been  known  in  Britain,  from  whence  we  date  most  of  our  horti- 
cultural acquirements,  since  1584.  There  are  three  varieties,  the 
plainer  single-leaved,  curled-leaved,  and  large-rooted  Hamburg; 
the  two  former  are  used  in  soups  and  stews,  and  for  garnishing; 
the  latter  is  cultivated  for  its  large  white  carrot-shaped  roots,  and 
used  in  autumn  and  winter  like  parsneps.  It  (the  Hamburg)  may 
be  grown  in  the'same  way  as  directed  for  the  carrot  and  parsnep, 
and  preserved  during  winter  in  sand.  For  soups,  Sic.  it  is  imma- 
terial whether  the  curled  or  plain-leaved  be  used,  but  as  a  garnish 
the  curled  is  decidedly  preferable. 

Method  nf  cul/ure. — Parsley  may  be  sown  either  in  rows  or  beds, 
middle  of  spring  (15th  April),  and  deeply  raked.  The  seed  does 
not  vegetate  under  two  or  three  weeks,  unless  previously  soaked, 
which  we  would  recommend  being  done  in  warm  water  for  twelve 
hours  immediately  before  sowing.  During  the  season  of  growth 
the  cultivator  will  of  course  keepit  free  from  weeds,  and  the  ground 
in  a  proper  condition.  As  a  preparation  for  a  winter  supply,  early 
in  autumn  trim  off  the  leaves  of  strong  plants,  which  will  speedily 
form  young  and  tender  growth,  and  on  the  approach  of  severe 
weather  give  a  covering  of  straw,  &c.,  to  preserve  the  leaves  from 
the  combined  action  of  frost  and  sunshine,  which  soon  discolours 
them.  If  a  portion  of  the  plants,  root  and  all,  are  taken  up  in 
November  and  laid  in  earth  in  some  convenient  situation,  there  is 
little  doubt  that  the  leaves  would  keep  in  fine  condition  throughout 
the  winter. 

Peas.— As  early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  will  admit  of  being 
tilled,  Peas  may  be  sown  on  an  early  border  or  other  warm  situa- 
tion, but  as  much  moisture  is  apt  to  rot  them,  and  the  labour  be 


48  THE    MANUAL    OF   KITCHEN    GARDENING. 

therebyjost,  observe  to  sprout  them  at  that  season,  before  planting-; 
the  method  is  to  pour  warm  water  over  them  and  keep  them  at  an 
even  temperature  for  a  couple  of  days,  when  the  germ  will  start, 
after  which  there  is  but  little  danger ;  Landreth's  Extra  Early, 
which  is  unquestionably  the  earliest  Pea  known,  the  true  Early 
Frame,  and  Early  Charlton  are  the  best  for. early  sowing. 

The  Early  Frame,  if  the  true  sort,  will  succeed  the  Landreth 
Extra  Early  in  about  ten  days  to  a  fortnight,  and  will  fruit  a  few 
days  sooner  than  the  Charlton.  The  Charltons  are  not  only  early, 
but  great  bearers,  and  excellent  Peas  for  the  table,  and  are,  there- 
fore, equally  fitted  for  the  early  crop,  and  forward  successive  crops, 
and  inferior  to  few  for  the  principal  summer  crops.  The  Hotspurs, 
which  closely  resemble  the  Charlton,  are  hardy  and  prolific,  and 
make  returns  nearly  as  quickly  as  it,  and  about  a  fortnight  before 
the  Marrowfat.  These  sorts  are,  therefore,  the  best  for  the  earlier 
sowings.  To  secure  a  regular  supply,  successive  sowings  should 
be  made  every  three  weeks  during  the  months  of  March,  April  and 
May,  and  twice  in  each  of  the  months  of  June,  July  and  August. 
The  seed  should  not  be  more  than  two  years  old,  and  a  pint  will 
be  sufficient  to  sow  four  rows,  each  five  yards  long. 

Peas  are  most  productive  in  a  light,  but  at  the  same  time  a  rich 
soil  ;  they  may,  however,  be  grown  with  care  upon  almost  any 
other  kind  of  soil,  if  it  be  well  manured,  when  too  poor  or  dry,  and 
well  drained,  if  inclined  to  be  wet. 

For  the  benefit  of  a  proper  exposure  to  light  and  air,  the  early 
dwarf  sorts  should  have  the  drills  three  feet  apart ',  and  the  taller 
kinds  four  feet.  In  a  moderate  sized  garden,  it  is  good  practice  to 
sow  the  rows  of  Peas  from  twelve  to  twenty  feet  apart,  filling  up 
the  intervals  with  cabbages,  onions,  carrots,  parsneps,  French 
beans,  or  any  summer  crops.  Early  crops,  sown  on  a  border,  if 
one  side  be  bounded  by  a  wall  or  close  fence  w^hich  may  obstruct' 
the  sun,  should  be  always  in  a  longitudinal  direction,  for  if  sown 
across  the  border,  the  one  end  of  the  rows  will  be  fit  for  use  when 
the  other  end  is  hardly  in  flower,  and  when  sown  longitudinally, 
one  row  will  be  enough  in  narrow  borders;  the  remaining  part  of 
the  border,  between  the  Peas  and  the  walk,  may  be  cropped  with 
early  cauliflower,  lettuce,  salads,  «&:c.,  which  being  low  growing 
crops,  will  not  shade  the  Peas.  In  practising  the  latter  system, 
however,  the  rows  should  run  parallel  from  north  to  south,  not 
from  east  to  w'est,  as  each  side  of  the  rows  will  thus  be  exposed  to 
the  sun,  and  the  crops  grown  between  them  will  not  be  shaded  by 
them. 

Peas  should  always  be  sown  in  double  rows,  that  is,  two  rows 
should  be  sown  nine  inches  from  each  other,  as  by  this  method 
much  ground  will  be  saved,  and  they  will  not  require  more  than 
half  as  many  stakes  as  they  would,  if  sown  in  single  rows.  The 
drills  should  be  made  at  least  three  inches  deep,  and  as  level  as 
possible  at  the  bottom,  so  as  to  have  the  crop  of  a  regular  height 


THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN   GARDENING.  49 

and  size.  The  seed  should  be  sown  moderately  thick,  to  allow  for 
the  depreciations  of  insects  or  vermin,  and  havinor  trodden  it  in, 
cover  it  with  the  same  depth  of  soil  as  that  taken  from  the  drills, 
after  which  again  tread  the  surf  ice  of  the  soil. 

It  will  he  important,  as  soon  as  the  tendrils  appear,  to  fix  sticks 
along  the  rows,  and  this  should  Grpnerally  be  done,  when  they  are 
about  six  or  seven  inches  high.  The  sticks  for  this  purpose  should 
be  from  four  or  five  to  seven  feet  high,  accordingr  to  the  growth  of 
the  ditferent  sorts  of  Peas.  They  should  also  be  furnished  with 
small  lateral  branches,  that  the  plants  may  readily  take  hold  with- 
out falling  on  the  ground,  and  they  should  be  prepared  in  a  fanned 
manner,  so  tiiat  the  side  branches  extend  only  the  way  of  the  rows  ; 
for  this  purpose,  no  wood  is  so  good  as  cedar-brush,  which  is 
usually  clothed  with  side  shoots,  and  is  durable.  Some  advise 
that  they  should  be  placed  on  the  most  sunny  side  of  the  rows,  at 
least,  towards  the  east  or  mid-day  sun,  where  the  position  or  range 
of  the  rows  admits  ;  for  the  sun  will  naturally  incline  the  plants 
that  way,  and  they  will  more  readily  catch  the  sticks,  which  should 
be  placed  at  such  distances  that  the  branches  of  each  other  may 
meet. 

When  the  early  crops  are  in  blossom,  the  leading  shoots  should 
be  stopped  (pinched  off),  which  accelerates  the  setting  and  matu- 
rity of  the  fruit.  This  diverts  the  growtii  into  the  pods  just  form- 
ing, and  forwards  them  in  a  considerable  degree.  The  time  for 
stopping  is  just  when  the  flowers  on  the  lower  part  of  the  stalk 
begin  to  fade.  The  plants  need  not  be  shortened  more  than  an 
inch  or  two.  The  system,  however,  is  only  applicable  to  early 
crops,  as  upon  a  large  scale,  it  w'ould  be  an  endless  task. 

Fowls  should  never  be  allowed  to  enter  the  garden,  or  they  will 
scratch  up  the  seed  ;  and  pigeons,  sparrows,  and  other  birds  must 
be  frequently  scared,  or  tliey  will  pull  up  the  whole  of  the  crop 
after  it  has  appeared  above  the  ground.  But  of  all  the  enemies 
most  to  he  feared,  the  mice  are  the  most  destructive,  for  they  fre- 
quently devour  the  whole  crop  soon  after  it  is  sown,  by  burrowing 
into  the  ground  for  it.  Traps  should,  therefore,  be  placed  along 
the  sides  of  t!ie  rows,  with  some  strong-smelling  bait,  which  may 
attract  them  from  the  f 'od  in  the  ground. 

'J'he  following  are  the  relative  distances  at  which  the  most  ap- 
proved kinds  of  Peas  should  be  sown.  The  Landreth's  Extra 
Early,  p]arly  Frame,  Hotspur,  Charlton,  and  Blue  Imperial,  may 
be  sown  from  three  to  four  feet  asunder.  Bishop's  Dwarf,  which 
does  not  require  stakes,  and  is  a  good  early  Pea,  may  be  sov,'n  at 
two  feet  and  a  half  asunder,  and  at  two  inches  distant  in  the  row. 
The  Prussian  Blue,  Royal  Dwarf  Marrow,  and  Knight's  Imperial 
Green,  should  be  sown  at  four  feet  intervals,  and  the  more  lofty 
kinds,  as  Knight's  Green  Marrowfat,  at  four  and  a  half  or  five  feet 
intervals.  It  may  be  well  to  observe  for  the  information  of  young 
gardeners,  that  there  are  many  kinds  of  Peas  named  in  the  cata- 
5 


50  THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN    GARDENING. 

logues  of  some  seedsmen,  which  may  be  classed  as  fancy  sorts; — 
and  there  are  many  synonymes,  the  same  kind  beincr  called  by  se- 
veral different  names  :  the  varieties  named  herein,  it  is  believed,  are 
amonor  the  better  kinds,  both  as  rej^ards  quality  and  productiveness. 

PoTATOS. — The  best  soil  for  Potatos  is  a  rich  sandy  loam,  for 
they  will  not  prosper  well  on  stiff,  heavy,  clayey,  or  wet  land. 
Stable  or  cow-dung,  with  plenty  of  litter  in  it,  is  the  best  manure 
for  a  sandy  soil,  and  a  previous  liming  for  land  that  is  wet  and 
heavy.  In  peat  soils,  without  the  application  of  lime,  the  potatos 
are  frequently  hollow-hearted.  The  middle  of  spring  (15th  April) 
is  the  time  for  planting  for  the  general  crop  ;  but  if  a  piece  of 
ground  be  planted  early  in  spring  (15th  to  20th  March)  a  good 
crop  may  sometimes  be  obtained,  without  being  liable  to  injuries 
from  frost,  which  too  frequently  occurs  with  those  that  are  planted 
still  earlier. 

The  Fox's  Seedling,  ashed-leaved  and  early  dwarf,  but  particu- 
larly the  former,  are  the  best  kinds  to  be  planted  for  the  early  crop, 
as  they  require  less  room  than  any  other  kinds.  They  may  be 
planted  six  or  eight  in  a  line,  and  about  fifteen  inches  between  each 
line.  If  the  ground  be  in  an}^  degree  wet  or  damp,  they  may  be 
planted  in  drills  about  three  inches  deep;  but  if  it  be  light  and 
dry,  they  may  be  dibbled  in.  The  Mercer  is  the  Potato  the  most 
cultivated  a])out  Philadelphia  ;  it  is  productive,  and  usually  of  good 
quality;  the  Foxite  (a  distinct  variety  from  Fox's  Seedling),  is 
most  esteemed,  but  yields  sparingly,  and  is  on  that  account  little 
cultivated. 

When  uncut  Potatos  are  used  for  seed,  all  the  eyes  but  one  ought 
to  be  scooped  out,  and  they  must' be  planted  at  greater  distances, 
in  order  to  give  room  for  the  plants  to  get  light  and  air.  The  eyes 
or  buds  nearest  the  root  fibre  sprout  a  week  or  more  later  than  those 
furthest  from  it.  In  planting  out  sets,  therefore,  the  two  sorts  of 
eyes  should  be  planted  in  separate  rows.  Potatos  for  planting  are 
always  found  to  answer  best,  when  procured  from  a  different  soil, 
as  they  seem  to  like  a  change  of  food. 

When  the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  above  ground,  the  space 
between  the  roots  ought  to  be  well  dug,  to  loosen  the  soil  and  en- 
courage the  spreading  of  the  roots.  When  half  a  foot  high,  the 
earth  should  be  hoed  up  to  the  stem,  so  as  to  cover  the  Potatos  at 
the  surface  from  the  light,  which  turns  them  green  and  acrid,  and 
to  permit  the  air  to  ])enetrate  to  the  roots  the  farthest  spread. 
Another  hoeing  will  be  afterwards  wanted,  to  keep  the  stems  from 
falling  down.  In  light  soils,  where  Potatos  have  been  dibbled  in, 
edge-hoeing  and  flat-hoeing,  without  earthing  up,  answers  best. 
Care  must  be  taken  not  to  choke  the  plants  by  drawing  the  earth 
too  close,  and  all  weeds  which  rob  the  crop  of  food,  and  shade  it 
from  light,  must  be  grubbed  up. 

The  withering  of  the  plant  points  out  the  proper  time  for  digging 
up  the  crop.     If  any  be  dug  up  before  those  symptoms  appear, 


THE   MANUAL    OP   KITCHEN   GARDENING.  51 

they  oufrht  not  to  be  exposed  to  the  sun,  which  will  render  them 
acrid,  and  injure  their  Havoiir.  Potatos  intended  to  he  eaten,  can- 
not, probably,  be  too  ripe:  such,  however,  as  are  intended  for  seed, 
should  not  be  allowed  to  become  too  ripe,  as,  in  that  case,  they  are 
more  subject  to  the  disease  called  the  curl,  which  is  often  verj'' 
detrimental  to  the  crop.  In  taking  up  Potatos,  whether  for  eating 
or  seed,  it  cannot  be  denied  that  by  far  too  little  attention  has  been 
paid  to  keep  each  sort  separate.  It  is  necessary  that  they  should 
be  taken  up  when  the  crround  is  perfectly  dry,  more  particularly  in 
damp  strong  soils,  and  either  housed  in  places  for  the  purpose,  or 
piled  up  on  dry  ground  in  a  conical  form,  and  covered  a  foot  thick 
with  straw,  and  then  a  foot  of  mould  placed  over  it,  leaving  the 
surface  of  the  whole  as  smooth  as  possible,  the  better  to  draw  off 
the  rain. 

The  curl  is  a  disease  very  injurious  to  Potatos,  and  hitherto  no 
remedy  has  been  discovered  for  it.  It  has,  however,  been  recom- 
mended by  the  Rev.  Henry  Cotes,  of  Bedlington  Vicarage,  near 
Morpeth,  as  a  cure,  to  raise  Potatos  occasionally  from  seed,  and 
the  produce  of  the  new  Potatos  fit  for  planting  to  be  marked  accord- 
ing to  their  growth  from  the  seed.  The  directions  herein  given 
for  the  culture  of  this  most  useful  esculent,  apply  to  the  gar- 
den ;  in  farm  tillage  the  plough  and  hnrse-hoe  are  used  instead  of 
the  spade  ;  and  it  will  generally  be  found  that  the  farm-land  will 
produce  Potatos  of  better  quality  than  the  garden.  New  land,  or 
such  as  has  been  recently  cleared,  or  old  pastures  broken  up  the 
preceding  autumn,  yield  the  finest  crops. 

Pumpkin. — This  vine  is  seldom  admitted  inside  the  garden, 
owing  to  its  ungovernable  habits.  When  the  fruit  is  required,  it 
is  better  to  depend  upon  the  farm,  or  purchase,  than  to  have  more 
important  vegetables  overrun  by  it. 

It  is  either  planted  by  itself  in  hills,  eight  or  ten  feet  apart  each 
way,  or  interspersed  among  the  crop  of  Indian  corn,  where  it  suc- 
ceeds equally  well.  The  varieties  are  something  like  half  a  dozen, 
but  the  one  most  esteemed  for  family  use  is  the  Caskaw ;  good  in 
an  unripe  state  as  Squash  or  Cimblin,  or  when  ripe,  for  pie  or 
pudding. 

The  Mammoth  is  principally  cultivated  as  an  object  of  curiosity 
and  on  good  ground,  in  favourable  seasons,  sometimes  attain  the 
weight  of  200  pounds. 

Radishes. — Early  in  the  spring  (15th  March),  Avhen  the  weather 
is  open  and  mild,  sow  scarlet  short-topped  Radishes,  to  come  in  as 
an  early  crop,  on  a  warm  border,  sloping  towards  the  sun,  and 
under  a  wall  or  other  fence ;  and  a  little  later  sow  a  crop  of  salmon 
Radishes,  to  succeed  the  short-topped.  Never  mix  the  seeds  of 
both  sorts,  but  let  each  sort  be  sown  separately,  for  the  short-topped 
will  come  into  use  ^ojiei  by  a  week  gr  ten  days  than  the  salmon 

-  -^^g^o33  of  Horfeulur^i 


52  THE   MANUAL   OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING. 

Radish,  even  if  both  be  sown  at  the  same  time.  A  little  carrot 
seed  may  be  mixed  and  sown  with  the  Radish  seed;  for  if  the 
Radishes  should  fail,  the  carrots  may  still  succeed,  and  if  both 
succeed,  a  double  advantage  will  be  obtained,  for,  when  the 
Radishes  are  pulled  up,  a  crop  of  carrots  still  remains,  which  will 
come  in  at  a  very  early  season ;  or,  instead  of  the  carrots,  a  small 
quantity  of  round-leaved  spinach  and  some  lettuce  may  be  sown, 
and  when  the  Radishes  come  off,  these  will  come  in. 

The  Radish  seed  should  be  sow-n  tolerably  thick  ;  for  as  soon  as 
the  plants  begin  to  appear,  the  weather,  if  it  should  prove  severe, 
will  cut  off  some,  and  the  birds  also,  being  apt  to  attack  them 
greedily,  will  destroy  the  excess.  Sow  the  seed  evenly  on  the 
surface,  and  either  rake  it  in  or  cover  it  with  fine  earth  from  the 
alleys,  about  half  an  inch  deep;  observing  that,  if  the  weather 
should  set  in  frosty  after  the  seed  be  sown,  it  will  be  of  great  ad- 
vantage to  spread  some  dry  long  litter  over  the  beds  two  or  three 
inches  thick,  which  will  keep  out  the  frost,  and  forward  the  vege- 
tation of  the  seed. 

When  the  plants  begin  to  appear,  proper  means  m.ust  be  used  to 
protect  them  from  the  frost  and  birds,  by  spreading  straw,  cedar 
brush,  or  thin  mats,  over  the  surface,  there  to  continue  till  the 
plants  have  attained  a  proper  size  ;  and  if  the  weather  prove  severe 
after  the  plants  appear,  cover  them  also  occasionally  with  straw, 
which  will  be  a  great  protection  from  the  injury  of  the  frost.  The 
covering  should  be  applied  every  night,  when  there  is  any  likeli- 
hood of  frost,  but  must  be  kept  off  in  fine  weather.  The  covering 
of  early  Radishes  should  be  continued  occasionally,  until  the  rough 
leaves  of  the  plants  have  appeared. 

For  the  late  crops  sow  the  yellow  turnip-rooted  and  summer 
white,  which  stand  the  heat  better  than  the  more  delicate  kinds; 
for  winter  use  the  white  and  black  Spanish  are  used, — they  should 
be  removed  to  a  secure  place  on  the  approach  of  severe  weather, 
and  in  that  way  kept  for  use  until  spring. 

For  a  bed  three  feet  broad  and  nine  feet  long,  one  ounce  of  seed 
will  be  enough  for  spring  varieties,  and  three  quarters  of  an  ounce 
for  autumn  and  winter  varieties.  When  sown  too  thick,  they  are 
apt  to  be  woody  or  to  run  to  seed.  The  late  crops  should  be  w-ell 
watered  in  dry  weather,  or  otherwise  the  flavour  will  be  injured. 
In  summer  they  must  be  sown  free  from  the  powerful  influence  of 
the  sun,  yet  not  under  the  shade  of  trees  or  of  other  crops. 

Rhubarb. — The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  the  middle  of  spring 
(15th  April),  in  a  border  with  a  northern  aspect,  and  scattered 
thinly  in  drills  of  about  two  inches  in  depth,  and  a  foot  apart,  and 
slightly  covered  with  soil.  When  the  plants  appear,  they  should 
be  thinned  out  to  about  six  inches  from  each  other,  and  afterwards 
to  a  foot;  and  the  thinnings  may  be  planted  in  a  similar  situation, 


THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN   GARDENING.  53 

if  required,  though  in  this  case  they  must  be  taken  up  with  care, 

so  as  not  to  break  the  roots. 

As  soon  as  the  leaves  are  decayed,  the  seedlinpf  plants  should  be 
taken  up  with  care,  and  planted  out  in  rows  two  feet  apart,  and  the 
same  distance  between  the  plants  :  when  they  are  planted  further 
apart  than  this,  a  great  portion  of  ground  will  be  wasted,  as  ihey 
are  not  injured  by  being  shaded  by  each  other.  Rhubarb  should 
always  be  planted  in  a  shaded  or  northern  situation,  as  their  stems 
will  be  finer  and  better  when  not  too  much  exposed  to  the  sun. 
Any  rich  soil  will  grow  good  Rhubarb,  which  will  require  an  an- 
nual top-dressing  of  well-rotted  manure.  This  should  be  applied 
in  the  autumn,  and  during  the  winter  the  nutriment  which  it  con- 
tains will  be  conveyed  down  to  the  roots  by  the  rain,  and  it  will 
also  cause  the  leaves  to  commence  growing  much  earlier  in  the 
spring.  As  seedling  plants  do  not  produce  stems  fit  for  use  till 
two  years  after  the  time  for  sowing,  if  plants  are  desired  to  be  ob- 
tained sooner  than  they  can  thus  be  brought  into  use,  the  old  roots 
may  be  taken  up,  and  separated  into  as  many  parts  as  there  are 
crowns  or  eyes,  leaving  a  portion  of  the  root  to  each  :  these  may 
be  planted  out  when  desired,  and  they  will  soon  produce  stems 
sufficiently  strong  for  any  re(juired  purpose. 

Rhubarb  may  be  -forwarded  by  turning  over  the  plants  as  they 
stand  in  the  open  ground,  empty  barrels  or  boxes,  which  may  be 
surrounded  by  coarse  litter  or  stable  manure  ; — the  warmth  thus 
imparted  will  cause  the  plants  to  shoot  vigorously.  The  use  of  the 
Rhubarb,  for  pies  and  tarts,  is  greatly  increasing;  many  persons 
esteem  it  quite  equal  to  the  gooseberry,  and  by  the  mode  of  forcing 
it  just  stated,  it  may  be  had  in  profusion  before  even  a  leaf  has 
put  forth  on  the  gooseberry.  It  is  said  that  one  cultivator  near  Lon- 
don has  twenty  acres  occupied  in  its  culture. 

Burk's  Scarlet,  the  Giant,  Victoria,  and  Tobolsk,  are  the  varieties 
most  highly  prized. 

Salsafv  or  Oyster  Plant. — This  vegetable,  which  somewhat 
resembles  the  Parsnep,  is  cultivated  as  a  substitute  for  the  oyster, 
and  in  the  interior,  where  the  real  article  cannot  readily  be  obtained, 
is  really  quite  acceptable.  ^ 

Mi)de  of  culture, — Sow  in  drills  sufficiently  wide  apart  to  admit 
of  easy  culture,  middle  of  spring  (1 5th  April),  and  keep  the  land 
well  tilled,  to  encourage  free  growth;  as  it  is  more  convenient  in 
the  preparation  of  this  root  for  table,  if  they  are  of  good  size. 
Many  of  the  seeds  are  defective,  and  to  secure  a  sufficiency  of 
plants  in  the  rows,  the  seed  should  be  strown  thickly,  and  if  they 
stand  too  closely,  thin  out  to  the  proper  distance  :  about  six  inches 
from  pi  mt  to  plant.  It  is  quite  hardy,  but.  that  it  may  be  obtained 
v.ith  little  trouble  during  winter,  remf^ivp  i;ie  rools  to  the  cellar,  or 
other  shelter,  on  the  approach  of  severe  frost. 

Sea.  Kale. — A  rich  sandy  loara  is  most  congenial  to  this  vege- 

5* 


64  THE   MANUAL   OF   KITCHEN  GARDENING. 

table.  Trenches  should  be  opened,  as  for  celery,  at  a  distance  of 
about  four  feet,  into  which  put  plenty  of  rotten  dung.  INIake  a  • 
compost  of  rich  earth,  sea  sand,  or  coal  ashes;  bog  mould  is  also 
very  good,  and  old  manure,  quite  decomposed.  Cover  the  dung 
in  the  trenches  with  the  compost,  and  a  proportion  of  the  earth 
taken  out  to  the  depth  of  nine  or  ten  inches,  so  as  to  have  the  rows 
raised  about  four  inghes  above  the  level  of  the  ground.  A  drill 
must  then  be  drawn  along  the  centre  of  each  row,  to  the  depth  of 
nearly  three  quarters  of  an  inch;  drop  two  or  three  seeds  close  to 
each  other,  in  holes  eighteen  inches  apart;  then  cover  the  drills, 
and  tread  the  ground  lightly.  When  the  plants  have  attained  the 
third  leaf,  pull  up  the  weakest,  leaving  only  the  best  plants  at  the 
intervals  before  mentioned.  In  October  or  November,  cover  each 
plant  with  coal  ashes,  old  tan,  or  bog  earth,  to  the  height  of  eighteen 
inches  or  two  feet.  They  will  be  fit  for  use  in  March  or  April, 
•when  the  plants  may  be  again  stripped.  Plants  of  one  or  two 
years'  growth  may,  with  good  effect,  be  transplanted  to  the  trenches. 

In  order  to  force  Sea  Kale,  fix  long  sticks  in  the  ground  close  to 
each  of  the  crowns  of  the  Sea  Kale,  to  mark  their  precise  situa- 
tion ;  then  put  on  abundance  of  sifted  coal  ashes,  rotten  tan,  turf 
mould,  or  light  sand,  whichever  can  be  had  with  the  greatest  con- 
venience. The  crowns  being  thus  covered,rv4et  wide  and  deep  fur- 
rows be  opened  between  the  rows,  and  raise  the  earth,  in  form  of  a 
celery  drill  when  highly  landed,  beating  the  sides  firmly  and 
smoothly  :  the  furrows  should  be  two  feet  wide  at  top,  but  not  more 
than  eighteen  inches  at  bottom,  lest  by  going  too  near  the  roots  of 
the  vSea  Kale,  they  should  be  scorched  by  the  heat  in  forcing. 
When  the  trenches  are  clear,  and  the  sides  of  the  ridges  carefully 
made  up,  let  good  stable-dung,  worked  as  for  a  hot-bed,  be  put  in, 
so  as  to  fill  tlie  furrows  ;  and  if  great  expedition  be  required,  it 
may  be  raised  above  the  tops  of  the  ridges. 

The  process  of  blanching  Sea  Kale  is  performed  in  a  variety  of 
ways  ;  the  most  convenient  and  best,  however,  for  Sea  Kale  Avhich 
is  not  forced,  is  to  cover  the  beds  in  autumn  with  leaves  raked  up 
from  the  woods,  covering  each  bed  in  thickness  according  to  the 
strength  and  age  of  the  plants,  giving  the  greatest  covering  to  the 
oldest  or  strongest  roots.  The  covering  may  be  from  five  inches 
to  fifteen  when  first  laid  on,  and  over  that,  place  a  slight  covering 
of  light  littery  dun?,  in  order  to  prevent  the  leaves  from  blowing 
about:  this  covering  is  to  remain  on  until  the  crop  be  all  cut,  when 
it  may  be  taken  away,  and  the  beds  dug  over ;  or  when,  from  par- 
ticular circumstances,  this  has  not  been  attended  to  in  autumn,  or 
at  the  time  the  buds  begin  to  appear,  fork  the  beds  regularly  over, 
and  cover  the  plants  from  twelve  to  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  with 
sawdust,  or  rotten  Ian,  w^hen  it  can  be  conveniently  procured  ;  if 
neither  can  be  had,  break  the  mould  on  the  surface  of  the  beds  as 
fine  as  possible,  and  mould  up  the  plants  with  it.  But  where  there 
-  are  blanching  pots  used  for  the  crops  of  Sea  Kale,  which  have 


THE    MANUAL    OP    KITCHEN    GARDENING.  55 

been  forcing  during  the  winter,  they  may  be  used  with  propriety 
to  blanch  the  spring;  crops.  Place  them  over  the  plants,  and  draw 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  mould  round  their  base  to  prevent  the  ad- 
mission of  air.  Large  flower-pots  turned  down  upon  them,  will 
answer  the  purpose,  provided  the  holes  in  the  bottom  of  the  pots 
be  stopped  :  the  plants  will  draw  sufficient  air  for  their  sustenance, 
however  well  the  holes  may  be  stopped.  The  flowers,  where  the 
seeds  are  not  wanted,  ought  to  be  nipped  off  with  the  finirer  and 
thumb  as  long  as  they  appear,  as  they  tend  considerably  to  weaken 
the  plants. 

The  culture  of  Sea  Kale  has  been  but  little  attended  to  in  the 
United  States.     It  is  reputed  to  be  a  wholesome  vegetable,  not  un- 
like  asparagus  when  similarly  cooked,  and  from  "the  ease  with 
which  It  may  be  obtained  very  early  in  the  spring,  is  more  deserving 
,of  notice.  ° 

--  Spinach.— This  vegetable  requires  a  richer  soil  than  almost  any 
other  culinary  vegetable,  to  bring  it  to  perfection,  as  it  has  to  yield 
frequent  gatherings  or  cuttings,  and  therefore  requires  a  repeated 
development  of  parts,  which  cannot  be  expected  without  an  abun- 
dance of  food.  The  finest  crops  of  this  vegetable  may  be  expected 
from  ground  glutted  with  manure,  so  far  as  the  attainment  of  vege- 
table matter  is  concerned.  The  time  of.  sowincr  for  a  winter  crop, 
to  come  in  from  November  to  May,  is  from  the  middle  of  August 
to  the  middle  of  September.  It  will  seldom  survive  the  winter 
in  the  climate  of  Philadelphia,  unless  protected  by  a  coverino-  of 
straw,  leaves,  or  anything  else  which  will  not  press  heavily  ,'11  it. 
For  an  early  summer  crop,  to  come  in  after  the  winter  cron  lias  run 
to  seed,  the  early  part  to  middle  of  spring  (15th  March  to  15th 
April)  IS  the  proper  time.  When  sown  after  the  close  of  sprino-, 
it  will  run  rapidly  to  seed.  The  best  sorts  are  the  prickly-seeded, 
for  the  autumn  sowing,  and  the  round-seeded  for  spring.  The  seed 
must  not  be  sown  too  thick,  and  may  be  covered  one-lhird  or  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch  deep.  It  should  be  moderately  trodden  in,  or 
beaten  with  the  back  of  a  spade,  unless  the  ground  be  in  bad  order 
from  too  much  moisture.  Let  water  be  given  when  the  weather  is 
dry;  and,  should  the  ground  be  very  rich,  the  plants  ouo-ht  to  be 
thinned  out  seven  or  eight  inches  apart.  Careful  weedino-,  and 
hoeing  up  the  earth,  so  as  not  to  choke  up  the  hearts  of  the  plants, 
are  indispensable. 

For  a  bed  five  feet  wide  and  twelve  feet  long,  an  ounce  of  seed 
will  be  enough,  or  half  an  ounce  for  the  same  space,  if  sown  in 
drills.  For  summer  crops,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  sow  the  seed  in 
drills,  between  the  rows  of  peas,  as  the  latter  will  afford  it  shelter 
'  and  shade,  and  assist  much  in  preventing  it  from  runnino-  to  seed, 
besides  which,  the  ground  will  thus  be  better  and  more  profitably 
occupied. 

Squash — This  fruit  is  in  general  use,  few  gardens  being  desti- 


5G  THE   MANUAL    OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING. 

tute  of  it  in  its  seasons  ;  there  are  many  varieties,  but  for  summer 
use,  those  most  grown,  are  the  large  green,  and  earit/  bush,  or  patty- 
pan shaped  ;  the  latter,  from  its  compact  mode  of  growth,  is  gen- 
erally preferred.  The  long  ramhling  kinds  are  out  of  place  in  the 
garden,  and  should  be  planted  with  the  potato  or  corn  crop.  There 
are  some  varieties  which  are  in  season  during  winter,  and  may  be 
cooked,  either  as  a  vegetable  dish,  or  prepared  in  pies,  like  the 
pumpkin. 

The  mode  of  culture  is  very  simple,  all  that  is  requisite  being  to 
deeply  dicr  patches  of  earth,  at  the  distance  of  four  or  five  feet 
each  way,  and  incorporate  with  the  soil  a  good  portion  cf  well 
decomposed  manure;  in  each  patch  or  mound  of  earth,  plant  half 
a  dozen  or  more  seed,  and  when  the  plants  are  well  established, 
remove  all  but  two  or  three  of  the  strongest.  The  seed  need  not 
be  planted  before  the  middle  of  spring  (15th  April),  as  the  squash 
is  susceptible  of  cold,  and  will  make  no  headway  until  the  wea- 
ther becomes  mild.  To  have  a  few  quite  early,  start  them  in  pots 
in  a  hot-bed,  or  in  the  window. 

Tomato  or  Love  Apple. — There  is  no  vegetable,  except  perhaps 
the  potato,  in  more  general  use  than  the  Tomato,  and  yet,  but  a  few 
years  since,  it  was  unknown  as  a  culinary  dish  to  most  persons  in 
this  country.  Near  the  large  cities,  where  high  prices  are  paid  for 
the  earlier  vegetables,  great  exertions  are  made  by  market  garden- 
ers to  advance  this  fruit.  The  plants  are  usually  started  in  hot- 
beds, very  early  in  the  spring  (1st  March),  and  as  they  advance  in 
growth,  transpl-.mted  to  more  roomy  quarters,  still  under  glass,  and 
by  the  time  it  is  prudent  to  expose  tliem  to  the  open  garden,  they 
have  become  strong  and  vigorous;  indeed,  after  they  are  set  out, 
shelter  is  still  afforded  in  unfavourable  Aveather,  usually  by  small 
boxes,  each  having  a  light  of  glass  in  the  top. 

The  commnn  rneihnd  (f  culture  is  to  prepare  the  ground  by  deep 
digging  (market  gardeners  use  the  plough),  and  incorporate  into 
the  soil  plenty  of  thoroughly  rotted  manure.  It  is  not  advisable, 
however,  that  the  manure  should  be  in  excess,  else,  though  the 
plants  will  grow  vigorously,  the  fruit  will  be  less  abundant. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  cover  the  surface  of  the  earth  around  each 
clump,  with  straw  or  litter,  which  prevents  rapid  evaporation  dur- 
ing the  hot  weather,  and  also  keeps  the  fruit  from  injury  by  heavy 
rain.  Some  brushwood  stuck  around  the  plants  to  support  them, 
is  also  useful. 

Turnips. — For  an  early  crop,  the  seed  should  be  sown  as  soon 
after  the  frost  has  left  the  ground  as  practicable,  for  unless  the  roots 
attain  their  growth  before  the  arrival  of  hot  weather,  they  will,  in 
this  climate,  be  worthless.  For  the  first  crops,  tlie  Karly  Dutch, 
or  Kf^d  Top,  aro  the  best;  frr  autumn  Pud  earlv  winter  i;se.  the 
Early  Dutch,  Strap-leaved  Red  Top,  and  Early  Stone,  are  desira- 
ble kinds  ;  for  late  spring  use,  the  Yellow  Aberdeen,  and  Swedish, 


THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN   GARDENING.  57 

or  Ruta  Baga,  are  preferable,  as  they  do  not  become  pithy.  For 
these  crops,  the  time  of«so\viiig  in  the  latitude  of  Philadelphia,  is 
about  the  middle  of  August  to  1st  September,  except  for  the  Ruta 
Baga,  which  requires  to  be  planted  two  or  three  weeks  earlier. 

The  early  crops  of  Turnips  should  always  have  a  warm  aspect, 
and  the  soil  should  be  of  the  lightest  and  driest  description.  Sand 
or  gravel,  with  a  proportionate  mixture  of  loam,  is  the  soil  best 
adapted  for  Turnips  ;  for  if  the  land  be  heavy,  or  excessively  rich, 
a  rank  taste  is  imparted  to  the  root,  and  induces  it  too  soon  to  run 
to  flower.  Tiie  most  successful  time  to  sow  the  seed  is  in  showery 
weather,  or  immediately  after  rain:  should  it  be  sown  in  dry  or 
hot  weather,  a  great  risk  is  run  of  a  total  loss  of  the  crop. 

The  seed  is  sown  either  thickly  broadcast,  or  in  drills,  a  foot  or 
a  foot  and  a  half  apart,  covering  with  two  inches  or  so  of  earth, 
which  should  be  lightly  beaten  or  trodden  down,  and  afterwards 
well  raked  in  the  same  direction  as  the  drills,  and  not  in  a  contrary 
direction,  which  would  disturb  the  seed,  and  cause  it  to  come  up 
irregularly.  For  a  bed  four  feet  broad  and  twelve  feet  long,  about 
a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  seed  is  sufficient.  The  operation  of  thin- 
ning should  be  performed  when  the  rough  leaves  are  about  an  inch 
in  breadth,  or  at  least  before  they  attain  a  much  greater  size,  as  the 
work  can  then  be  accomplished  with  greater  expedition  and  facility. 

When  weeding  with  the  hoe,  no  earth  ought  to  be  drawn  up  to 
the  roots,  as  this  is  apt  to  produce  bulgings,  or  what  is  commonly 
called  fingers  and  toes,  and  the  leaves  will  afford  the  roots  suffi- 
cient shade  to  preserve  them  from  becoming  green  and  acrid. 

The  winter  sorts  afford  excellent  greens  early  in  spring,  and  if 
they  be  suffered  to  remain  in  the  ground  till  the  spring,  with  a 
slight  protection,  two  or  three  successive  crops  of  these  greens  will 
be  produced. 

A  few  plants  of  the  different  sorts  may  be  allowed  to  stand  for 
seed,  as  distant  as  possible  from  each  other,  or  from  any  flowering 
cabbage,  in  order  to  prevent  cross  fertilization  by  the  bees  or  wind. 
Transplanting  Turnips  is  an  excellent  practice,  so  say  some  English 
gardeners,  as  it  renders  them  firmer  and  more  lasting  for  table  use. 

The  culture  of  the  Turnip  is,  after  all  has  been  said,  a  very 
simple  process  :  good  land,  good  seed,  and  timely  sowing,  being 
the  chief  requisites.  It  may  be  observed,  that  the  later  in  the  sea- 
son the  crop  be  put  in,  provided  there  be  time  for  it  to  reach  per- 
fection, the  finer  flavoured  and  more  tender  will  be  the  roots. 


SB  THE    MANUAL    OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING. 


PAET   SECOND. 


CULTIVATION  OF  CULINARY  HERBS. 

Balm. — This  is  an  herb  purely  medicinal.  A  very  little  of  it 
is  sufficient  in  any  garden.  It  is  propagated  from  seeds  or  from 
offsets.  When  once  planted,  the  only  care  required  is  to  see  that 
it  does  not  extend  itself  too  widely.  The  seed  may  be  sown  at 
any  time  during  spring,  and  when  the  plants  have  attained  the 
height  of  a  few  inches,  they  may  be  transplanted  to  a  permanent 
position. 

Bazil,  Sweet. — This  herb  is  an  annual,  and  requires  the  seed 
to  be  sown  for  every  crop.  It  thrives  w  ith  little  attention.  Sow 
at  middle  of  spiing  (15th  April),  in  drills,  and  keep  the  earth  free 
from  weeds,  and  in  a  state  to  promote  vegetation. 

Borage  is  a  very  prett}^  flowering  plant.  One  sort  of  it  has  blue 
flowers,  one  red,  and  another  tc-^zVe.  The  use  that  Borage  is  applied 
to,  in  England,  is  putting  it  into  w  ine  and  W' ater  along  with  nutmeg, 
and  thus  bearing  the  name  of  a  coul  tankard — let  not,  however,  the 
mention  of  this  nectar  tempt  any  one  to  test  its  quality — doubtless 
it  is  not  half  as  good  as  an  American  mint  julip,  which,  happily, 
in  these  temperance  times,  we  are  content  to  know  from  recollec- 
tion. Having  once  planted  it,  no  further  trouble  is  required  to  sow 
it.  ■  It  bears  an  abundance  of  seed,  some  of  which  is  ripe  while 
the  plant  is  still  in  bloom.  If  it  be  desired  to  have  it  young  at  all 
times,  it  may  be  sown  in  the  spring,  the  summer,  or  autumn,  or 
indeed,  at  any  time.  The  plants  should  not  stand  too  thick  upon 
the  ground,  and  the  ground  itself  should  be  kept  clean.  A  corner 
in  the  garden,  under  one  of  the  hedges,  will  do  very  well  for  Bo- 
rage, which,  however,  is  by  no  means  unornamental,  even  in  a 
flower  garden. 

Camomile  is  a  perennial  medicinal  herb,  of  great  use.  It  may 
be  propagated  from  seed,  but  it  is  most  easily  propagated  by  part- 
ing the  roots^  One  small  bit  of  root  will  soon  make  a  bed  suffi- 
cient for  a  garden.  The  flowers,  which  are  used  in  medicine, 
should  be  gathered  before  they  begin  to  fade,  and  at  a  time  w  hen 
they  are  perfectly  dry,  and  then  put  into  a  shady  and  airy  place  to 
dry,  which  they  will  do  perfectly,  but  not  in  less  than  a  month. 
"When  completely  dry,  they  should  be  put  into  a  paper  bag,  hung 
up  in  a  dry  place,  and  kept  from  all  dust. 


THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN    GARDENING.  59 

Dill  is  an  aromatic  herb,  very  much  like,  only  smaller,  than 
fennel, -dind^  it  is  used  by  many  amongst  cucumbers,  to  give  an  ad^- 
ditional  relish,  as  it  is  ?ilso  in  soups.  It  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant, 
and  a  small  patch  in  the  herb  garden,  of  two  feet  by  six,  will  be 
enough  for  any  family.  Sow  in  drills,  six  inches  apart,  in  the 
middle  of  spring  (15th  April),  first  making  the  ground  fine,  and 
raking  fine  earth  lightly  over  the  drills;  tliin  the  plants  out  when 
they  are  a  couple  of  inches  high,  and  let  them  remain  where  they 
ar* :  an  abundance  of  self-sown  plants  will  then  be  had  every 
spring  for  renewing  tlie  bed. 

Fennel  is  a  perennial  herb,  propagated  from  seed  or  from  offsets, 
sown  in  the  middle  of  spring  (15th  April),  or  the  offsets  planted  in 
the  fall.  The  pl^ts  should  stand  about  a  foot  asunder.  The 
leaves  are  used  in  salads,  or  for  making  a  part  of  the  sauce  for  fish. 
In  winter  the  seeds  are  bruised  to  put  into  fish-sauce,  and  they  give 
it  the  same  flavour  as  the  leaves  of  the  plant.  It  is  a  very  hardy 
plant :  two  yards  square  in  the  herbary  will  be  enough  for  any 
family,  and  when  once  in  the  ground  it  will  stand  for  an  age. 

Hyssop  is  a  sort  of  half  woody  shrub,  something  between  a  tree 
and  an  herbaceous  plant.  The  flower  spikes  are  used,  fresh  or 
dry,  for  medicinal  purposes.  It  is  propagated  from  seed  sown  in 
the  middle  of  spring  (I5th  April),  or  olTsets  removed  either  in  the 
spring  or  autumn.  A  couple  of  plants  in  the  herb  bed  will  be  suf- 
ficient tor  any  family. 

Lavender. — A  beautiful  little  well-known  shrub,  of  uses  equally 
well-known,  whether  used  in  the  flower,  or  in  the  water  which  is 
distilled  from  it.  Like  all  other  plants  and  trees,  it  may  be  pro- 
pagated from  seed;  but  it  is  easiest  propagated  from  slips,  taken 
off  early  in  the  spring,  and  planted  in  good  moist  ground  in  the 
shade.  When  planted  out,  the  plants  should  stand  three  feet  apart. 
The  flower-stalks  should  be  cut  off,  whether  for  preserving  the 
flowers  or  for  distillation,  before  any  of  the  blossoms  begin  to  fall 
off,  and,  indeed,  just  as  those  blossoms  begin  to  open  wide.  The 
Lavender  plant  grows  large,  and  it  should  therefore  be  cultivated 
in  the  outer  garden. 

Liquorice. — Prepare  some  ground  to  plant  Liquorice  where  re- 
quired :  the  ground  should  have  two  or  three  spades'  depth  of  good 
soil,  and  also  trenched  the  same  depth,  in  order  that  the  root,  the 
only  useful  part,  may  run  very  deep  into  the  earth. 

Procure  sets  of  the  small  horizontal  roots,  which  run  near  t' e 
surface  of  the  ground  :  cut  them  into  lengths  of  six  inches,  and 
plant  them  by  dibble,  in  rows  a  yard  asunder,  by  half  that  distance 
in  the  row,  placing  them  wholly  within  the  earth  as  soon  as  plant- 
ed :  sow  a  thin  crop  of  onions  on  the  same  ground  the  first  year. 
Keep  them  clear  from  weeds  all  summer,  and,  when  the  onions 


60  THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN   GARDENING. 

come  off,  hoe  the  ground  well,  and  in  winter  slightly  dig  the  ground 
between  the  rows. 

They  must  be  allowed  to  have  thiee  years'  growth,  cutting  down 
the  decayed  stems  every  October  or  November,  and  in  the  tliird  or 
fourth  year  the  main  roots  will  be  of  full  length  and  size;  then  dig 
them  up  in  winter,  beginning  at  one  end  cf  the  ground,  and  open- 
ing a  trench  quite  to  the  bottom  of  the  first  row  of  roots;  so  con- 
tinue, row  and  row,  taking  out  all  the  roots  as  you  proceed  to  the 
bottom. 

Marjoram. — One  sort  is  annual  and  one  perennial.  The  former 
is  called  Summer  or  Sweet  Marjoram,  and  the  latter  Winter  Mar- 
joram. The  Sweet,  or  annual  variety,  is  the  one  most  in  use.  It 
is  sown  about  the  middle  of  spring  (15th  April)rin  drills,  in  nicely 
prepared  ground.  The  seed^s  are  extremely  minute,  and  of  course 
the  drill  should  be  nothing  more  than  a  mark,  to  guide  the  hand 
■when  sowung,  and  tlie  covering  should  be  as  delicately  prepared 
as  possible,  merely  drawing  a  rake  lengthwise  with  the  drill.  The 
only  culture  it  requires  is  to  he  occasionally  hoed,  to  keep  the 
earth  loose  and  free  I'rom  w-eeds.  The  Winter  Marjoram  is  propa- 
gated by  offsets,  that  is,  by  parting  the  roots,  the  plants  standing 
pretty  close  to  each  other.  As  the  winter  sort  cannot  always  be 
procured  in  winter,  some  of  both  ought  to  be  preserved  by  drying. 
Cut  it  just  before  it  comes  out  into  bloom  ;  hang  it  up  in  little 
bunches  to  dry,  first  for  a  day  in  the  sun,  then  in  the  shade,  and, 
when  quite  dry,  put  it  in  paper  bags  tied  up,  and  the  bags  hung  up 
in  a  dry  place. 

Marigold  is  an  annual  plant ;  the  varietjr  used  in  cooking  is 
termed  the  Pot  Marigold,  very  distinct  from  the  ornamental  kinds; 
the  seed  to  be  sown  in  the  spring.  When  the  bloom  is  at  the  full, 
gather  the  flowers;  pull  the  leaves  of  the  flower  out  of  their  sock- 
ets; lay  them  on  paper  to  dry  in  the  shade.  When  dry,  put  them 
into  paper  bags.  They  are  excellent  in  broths,  soups,  and  stews. 
Two  yards  square  planted  with  Marigolds  will  be  sufllcient. 

Mint. — Any  time  during  the  spring,  is  a  good  season  to  make  a 
new  plantation  of  Mint.  It  is  propagated  either  by  parting  the 
roots,  by  slips  of  the  young  spring  plants  taken  up  with  root  fibres 
at  the  bottom  ;  also  by  cuttings  of  the  young  stalks  in  April  and 
May;  but  increasing  it  by  slips,  or  parting  the  roots,  during  the 
early  or  middle  part  of  spring,  is  most  generally  practised,  the 
method  of  which  is  as  follows  : 

Towards  the  end  of  March  have  recourse  to  such  old  beds  of 
Mint  as  are  well  stocked  with  young  plants,  and  thence  draw  out 
a  sufiicient  number  of  the  best  shoots,  properly  rooted,  observing 
to  draw  them  up  carefully,  and  with  the  assistance  of  a  knife,  at 
times,  raise  or  separate  them ;  by  which  care  every  plant  will  rise 
with  good  roots. 

Having  provided  the  plants,  let  them  be  planted  in  rows  about 


THE   MANUAL    OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING.  6X 

six  inches  apart,  and  five  or  six  inches  asunder  in  the  rows;  let 
thein  have  immediateiy  a  tolerable  watering,  to  settle  the  ev.rtli 
close  about  their  roots. 

The  method  of  increasing"  Mint  by  roots  is,  to  get  a  nnmber  of 
old  roots,  and  let  them  he  parted  in  a  proper  manner,  then  draw 
drills  with  a  hoe  six  inches  a}>art ;  plant  the  roots  in  the  drills, 
cover  them  about  an  inch  thick  with  earth,  and  then  rake  the 
ground. 

But  when  the  above  method  is  to  be  followed,  the  roots  should 
be  procured  and  planted  either  in  February  or  the  beginning  of 
March,  or  in  October  or  November. 

Mint  will  succeed  in  almost  any  soil  or  situation. 

Penny  Royal,  a  medicinal  herb,  that  is  perennial.  It  is  also 
used  f(»r  some  few  culinary  purposes.  A  little  patch,  a  foot  square, 
in  the  herb  bed,  is  quite  suificient.  This  patch  must  be  well  cut 
oil"  round  the  edges,  for  one  root,  if  left  alone  for  a  summer,  will 
extend  over  two  or  three  yards  square  in  good  ground.  This  herb 
is  usually  found  in  abundance  in  old  pastures. 

Purslane. — The  end  of  March  is  the  proper  time  to  sow  tliia 
salad,  for  if  it  be  sown  earlier,  it  runs  the  risk  of  being  injured  by 
the  frost,  owing  to  its  great  succulency.  It  should  be  sown  on  a 
bed  of  light  rich  earth  in  the  common  ground.  Sow  it  either  in 
drills  six  inches  asunder,  or  on  the  surface,  and  rake  it  in  lightly 
and  regularly.  Water  the  bed  often  in  dry  weather,  and  shade  it 
from  the  hot  sun,  till  the  plants  have  acquired  a  little  strength. 
But  if  in  April,  cold  or  dry  weather  set  in,  some  seed  must  ho  sown 
either  in  a  hot-bed,  under  the  shelter  of  glasses,  or  in  a  warm,  dry 
border,  and  defended  from  cold,  &c.  Tliis  plant  is  by  many  peo- 
ple much  esteemed,  although  Cobbett,  in  !us  customary  prejudiced 
manner,  describes  it  as  a  mischievous  weed,  eaten  by  Frenchmen^ 
and  pigSt  when  ihey  can  get  nothing  ehc. 

Rampion.  —  This  is  the  smallest  seed  of  which  we  have  any 
knowledge.  A  thimble-full,  properly  distributed,  would  sow  an 
acre  of  land.  It  is  sown  in  the  spring,  in  very  fine  earth.  Its 
roots  are  used  in  soups  and  salads.  Its  leaves  are  also  used  in 
salads.     One  yard  square  is  enough  for  any  garden. 

Rape,  or  CoLEWoar. — It  is  sown  exactly  like  mustard,  to  use  as 
salad,  and  is  raised  in  the  same  manner.  It  is  cultivated  in  large 
quantities  in  the  vicinity  of  liondon,  and  forms  the  principal  con- 
stituent of  the  early  salads,  being  sold  for  mustard,  from  which,  in 
its  early  growth,  it  is  scarcely  possible  to  distinguish  it. 

Rosemary  is  planted  in  autumn,  or  early  in  spring  (I5th  March), 
from  cuttino'S  of  the  vouno-  shoots,  from  five  to  eight  inches  long, 
ranged  closely  in  rows  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  asunder,  where 
they  remain  for  one  year,  when  they  may  be  transferred  to  any  part 
of  the  garden.  Rosemary  will  grow  almost  in  anv  soil,  and  forma 
6 


G2  THE   MANUAL    OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING. 

a  very  pretty  hedgerow,  when  neatly  kept.  In  the  Middle  States 
it  does  not  readily  withstand  tb.e  winter,  and  the  hetter  plan  is  to 
remove  the  plants  to  some  shelter  (the  cellar  will  answer,  if  no- 
thing better  offers),  on  the  approach  of  cold  weather. 

Rue — Is  propagated  from  slips  and  cuttings,  and  may  be  ranged 
out  any  time  during  spring,  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for 
rosemary;  particular  care,  however,  must  be  observed  not  to  cut 
off  the  tops  when  putting  in  the  cuttings. 

Sage. — This  herb  may  be  propagated  either  by  seed  or  by  cut- 
tings, or  slips  off  the  root.  April  is  the  proper  season  for  propaga- 
ting it  by  slips,  but  the  end  of  July,  or  the  beginning  of  August, 
is  the  niost  seasonable  time  for  its  propagation  by  cuttings.  The 
seed  may  be  sown  about  the  middle  of  spring,  and  the  plants  per- 
njitted  to  stand  where  the  seed  is  sown,  or  when  of  a  suitable  size, 
they  may  be  transplanted  to  any  other  position.  Although  they 
will  thrive  in  almost  any  soil,  yet  a  light  soil  is  preferable.  Wet 
ground  is  by  no  means  congenial  to  them,  as  in  winter  they  often 
perish  in  it;  a  few  slips  will  be  sufficient,  if  wanted  only  in  the 
green  state,  but  if  it  be  wanted  to  dry  for  winter  use,  a  greater 
number  will  be  required.  Two  kinds  are  used  in  the  kitchen,  the 
green  and  the  purple  ;  the  variegated  sorts  are  reckoned  ornament- 
al plants,  and  seldom  cultivated  for  the  kitchen. 

Savory. — There  are  two  sorts,  the  summer  and  the  winter;  the 
former  is  annual,  the  latter  perennial.  Both  may  be  propagated 
from  seed,  sown  in  a  little  patch  early  in  spring,  but  the  latter  may 
also  be  propagated  from  offsets.  The  summer,  or  annual  variety, 
is  more  generally  cultivated  :  treatment  precisely  as  directed  for 
sweet  marjoram.  In  order  to  have  these  herbs  in  winter,  with  the 
least  possible  trouble,  and  in  the  greatest  possible  perfection,  they 
should  be  cut  and  dried  in  the  manner  directed  for  sage. 

Sorrel — May  be  raised  from  seed,  sown  in  a  good  border,  in  a 
light,  rich  soil,  in'  the  months  of  March,  April,  or  May  ;  but  the 
visual  way  is  to  separate  the  stoles  into  small  offsets,  in  March  or 
April,  and  plant  them  out  at  ten  or  twelve  inches  asunder.  A  short 
row  is  quite  enough  for  a  private  garden  ;  it  is  perennial,  but 
should  always  be  covered  on  the  appearance  of  frost. 

Tarragon,  or  L'Estragon  of  the  French,  is  a  very  hot, 
peppery  herb,  used  in  soups  and  salads  ;  it  is  also  put  into  vinegar, 
to  which  it  imparts  a  delightful  flavour.  It  is  perennial,  and  may 
be  propagated  from  seed  sown  at  any  time  in  the  spring,  or  from 
offsets  put  out  in  either  spring  or  fall.  Its  young  and  tender  tops 
only  are  used.  It  is  eaten  with  beef-steaks,  accompanied  with 
minced  eschalots.  To  have  it  in  the  winter,  it  must  be  dried  in 
the  summer,  as  directed  for  sage  and  other  herbs. 

Thyme. — There  are  two  distinct  sorts  of  this  popular  and  most 


THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN    GARDENING.  63 

fraorant  herb.  One  is  called  common  Thyme,  and  the  other  lemon 
Thyme  ;  both  are  perennial,  and  maybe  propagated  from  seed,  but 
both  may  also  be  propagr-ated  from  oifsets  or  partings  of  the  roots, 
which  is  by  far  the  easiest  method.  A  severe  winter  will  frequent- 
ly destroy  a  plantation  of  Thyme,  and  protection,  therefore,  during 
severe  frost,  becomes  necessary.  Some  of  both  sorts  should  be 
preserved  for  winter  use,  cut  at  the  same  stage  as  is  described  for 
sage,  and,  as  in  tiie  case  of  all  other  herbs,  cut  when  perfectly  dry, 
and  dried  in  the  shade,  or  in  some  place  where  it  receives  no  wet 
either  from  rain  or  dews  during  the  drying. 

Wormwood  is  an  herb  purely  medicinal.  It  maybe  propagated 
from  seeds,  from  slips,  or  from  offsets.  It  is  perennial,  and  a  foot 
square  in  the  herb  bed  is  enough  to  be  allowed  for  it.  It  loses  its 
leaves  in  the  winter,  and  therefore,  for  winter  use,  it  must  be  cut 
and  dried  in  the  manner  directed  in  the  case  of  other  herbs,  and 
put  by  and  preserved  in  paper  bags. 


64  THE   MANUAL    OF   KITCKEN   GARDENING. 


PART   TRIED. 


DESTRUCTION  OF  VERMIN  INJURIOUS  TO 
CULINARY  CROPS. 


Destruction  of  the  Turnip  or  Cabbage  Fly, 
This  pernicious  and  active  little  insect,  is  probably  of  all,  the 
most  diflicuU  to  guard  against  in  garden  culture.  On  young  cab- 
bage plants,  when  put  out  in  spring,  especially  if  from  a  iiot-bed, 
or  on  cabbage  plants  in  the  seed  bed,  they  are  sometimes  provo- 
kingly  pestiferous.  On  ruta  baga,  and  turriips  generally,  they 
frequently  make  great  havoc,  many  times  rendering  it  necessary  to 
rework  and  recrop  the  land. 

Sleeping  the  seed  in  sulphur  water,  or  lime  slacked  with  urine, 
and  mixed  with  a  treble  quantity  of  soot,  and  sprinkled  in  with 
the  seed,  has  been  found  a  preventive  to  attack;  air-slacked  lime, 
ashes,  soot  or  plaster,  strewn  on  the  plants,  and  also  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground,  has  in  some  cases  proved  beneficial.  The 
application  should  be  made  w-liilst  the  dew  is  upon  the  leaves,  when 
it  will  more  firmly  adhere. 

We  have  tried  a  solution  of  "w"hale  oil  soap"  on  cabbage 
plants  in  the  seed  bed,  with  good  results;  a  solution  of  common 
brown  soap,  or  soft  soaj),  would  be  useful — care  must  be  observed 
that  the  solution  be  not  too  strong,  or  the  alkali  will  destroy  the 
plants,  as  well  as  the  flies.  The  market  gardeners  around  Phila- 
delphia protect  their  cabbage-plants,  by  placing  hens,  with  young 
broods,  near  the  seed  beds;  the  old  ones  are  confined  in  coops,  the 
young  ones  at  liberty  to  roam  over  the  beds ;  thousands  of  flies 
are  thus  destroyed,  and  others  are  so  much  disturbed  they  have 
not  time  to  feed  :  the  plants  meanwhile  gain  strength  to  resist  fur- 
ther attacks. 

Destruction  of  Ants. 
The  Ant  is  one  of  the  most  mischievous  of  all  things  in  a  gar- 
den, and  the  most  difficult  of  all  to  guard  against  or  destroy.  Those 
which  have  their  nests  in  little  hillocks  on  the  ground,  that  is  to 
say,  the  small  Ant,  is  the  sort  which  most  frequently  dispkys  their 
mischievous  industry  in  the  gardens.  There  is  nothing  but  fire, 
or  boiling  water,  or  squeezing  to  death,  that  will  destroy  Ants. 
The  first  thing  is  to  discover  their  nest,  which  is  accomplished  in 
the  following  manner:  by  looking  attentively,  it  will  be  found  that 


THE   MANUAL    OP    KITCHEN   QARDENlNO.  65 

in  the  morning,  very  early,  they  all  come  in  the  same  direction  to 
the  objects  of  their  depredation,  and  that  they  go  in  exactly  the 
same  way  back  at  night ;  then  trace  them  to  their  fortress,  and, 
when  it  is  quite  night,  surprise  them  with  a  bucket  of  water  that 
is  as  nearly  upon  the  boil  as  possible,  and  the  whole  colony  will 
be  then  destroyed.  Various  plans  have  been  recommended  by  the 
most  celebrated  gardeners,  for  the  destruction  of  the  ants,  many 
of  which  are  wholly  chimerical,  ai|^  attended  both  with  expense 
and  loss  of  time ;  there  is  no  more  efficacious  remedy  than  boiling 
water. 

Destruction  of  the  Aphides. 
These  are  generally  known  by  the  names  of  the  Green  Fly,  the 
Black  Fly,  &c.,  the  latter  of  which  are  particularly  injurious  to 
beans,  and  some  of  the  brassica,  or  cabbage  tribe :  they  are  very 
destructive,  and  every  endeavour  should  be  made  to  destroy  them. 
They  are  not  unfrequently  the  cause  of  an  entire  failure  of  the  bean 
crop,  from  which  tliey  are  difficult  to  remove  but  by  the  general 
plan  of  fumigation.  By  nipping  off  the  tops  of  the  plants  a  vast 
number  of  these  insects  will  be  destroyed  ;  but  the  most  approved 
method  of  eradicating  them  is  to  sprinkle  the  plants  which  they 
attack  copiously  with  tobacco  water,  or  to  fumigate  them  well  with 
tobacco  smoke ;  either  will  be  found  quite  efficacious. 

Destruction  of  the  Black  Grub. 
This  is  a  most  perverse,  as  well  as  a  most  pernicious  thing,  lying 
snugly  under  the  ground,  near  the  roots  of  the  plants,  in  the  day- 
time, and  coming  out  at  night  to  eat  the  plant  off  at  the  stem,  or 
to  eat  out  its  heart.  Lime  has  no  power  over  it;  nothing  will 
keep  it  off,  and  there  are  no  other  means  of  checking  its  depreda- 
tions than  by  taking  it  with  the  hand,  which  may  be  done  in  a 
garden,  by  examining  a  little  about  the  ground  just  round  the  stem 
of  every  plant,  for  as  soon  as  it  has  destroyed  one  plant  it  gets 
ready  for  another,  for  the  next  night's  work.  Tlie  ravages  of  this 
insect  should  be  particularly  guarded  against,  as  a  whole  crop  may 
be  destroyed  in  a  few  nights. 

Destruction  of  Caterpillars. 
These  are  the  larvae,  or  young  of  the  butterfly  tribe;  are  very 
destructive,  and  various  means  have  been  adopted  for  their  de- 
struction. Lime-water  has  been  used,  but  its  efficacy  is  partial  and 
uncertain.  Tobacco-water  possesses  greater  destructive  powers, 
but  it  is  apt  to  injure  the  flavour  of  the  plant.  The  most  effica- 
cious plan  is  to  employ  a  few  children  in  the  garden  for  a  few  days 
to  pick  them  off  the  plants,  and  then  destroy  them.  When  the 
butterflies,  particularly  the  common  white  ones,  are  observed  upon 
the  cabbages,  their  followers,  the  Caterpillars,  may  be  soon  expect- 
ed. Watch  the  plants  as  soon  as  you  see  them  attacked  ;  take  off 
the  leaves ;  for,  as  it  is  very  rarely  that  the  whole  or  any  consider- 
6* 


"gig  THE   MANUAL    OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING. 

able  part  of  a  piece  of  cabbage  is  attacked  at  once,  the  mischief 
of  tiiis  pernicious  insect  may,  in  some  measure,  be  guarded  against. 

Destruction  of  Mice. 

This  animal  is  a  most  destructive  creature  in  a  garden,  and 
should  be  dilio^ently -sought  after.  Poison  is  not  to  be  recommend- 
ed, as  it  mi"-ht  be  taken  by  other  animals  than  those  which  it  is 
intended  to  destroy.  Traps  ^  the  most  efficacious  remedy,  and 
we  can,  from  our  own  experience,  strongly  recommend  the  follovv- 
ino-  one  as  the  most  successful  :  soak  a  few  peas  in  water,  and, 
when  fully  soaked,  draw  a  thread  through  one  of  them  with  a 
needle,  then  place  two  little  sticks  in  the  ground,  at  the  exact  dis- 
tance from  each  otiier  of  the  breadth  of  a  brick  ;  tie  the  ends  of 
the  thread,  leaving  the  pea  in  the  middle,  to  the  two  sticks,  and 
then  let  the  brick  rest  upon  the  thread  ;  the  mouse  will  come  to 
devour  the  pea,  in  doing  which  he  will  gnaw  the  thread  in  twain, 
and  the  brick,  losing  its  support,  will  fall  upon  the  mouse  and  kili 

him. 

Destruction  of  Slugs. 

Have  them  gathered  by  the  hand  every  morning,  as  long  as  they 
appear  numerous,  carefully  looking  over  those  crops  to  which  they 
are  most  attached.  If  this  method  be  slow,  it  is,  nevertheless, 
sure.  A  very  infallible  trap  for  these  depredators,  is  to  mako 
small  thimble  holes,  about  an  inch  in  depth,  near  the  plants  at- 
tacked :  into  these  holes  the  slugs  are  certain  to  retreat  during  the 
day,  when  they  m.ay  be  destroyed  by  sprinkling  a  little  quicklime 
into  the  holes.  We  have  always  found  the  use  of  barilla  to  be  an 
efficacious  method  of  killing  these  vermin.  The  market  gardeners 
in  the  vicinity  of  London,  scatter  the  leaves  of  cabbages,  or  lay 
patches  of  straw  upon  the  ground,  under  which  the  slugs  retreat 
in  the  morning,  before  the  effects  of  the  sun  are  too  powerful  for 
them.  The  leaves  or  straw  are  examined  during  the  day,  and  all 
the  slugs  gathered  and  destroyed. 

Destruction  of  Snails. 

This  is  a  very  mischievous  creature  amongst  the  plants  of  the 
garden  in  general ;  but  its  size,  and  its  manners  and  habits,  make 
it  not  difficult  to  destroy.  Its  places  of  harbour  are  behind  tlie 
trunks  or  big  limbs  of  wall  trees  in  a  garden,  where  they  lie  all 
the  winter,  and  never  stir  till  they  are  wanned  into  life  in  the  spring. 
In  winter  time,  in  dry  and  frosty  weather,  snails  should  be  routed 
out  from  all  their  fastnesses,  and  destroyed.  This  is  the  most  ef- 
fectual way  of  guarding  against  their  depredations,  for  when  the 
leaves  come  out,  they  have  slielter,  and  are  exceedingly  cunning 
in  availing  themselves  of  that  shelter;  and  though  they  may  he 
finally  discovered,  it  may  not  have  taken  place  until  the  plants  or 
the  fmit  have  been  destroyed. 


THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN   GARDENING.      .  67 

Destruction  of  ike  Bookworm. 

This  is  an  underground  enemy,  and  will  clear  a  patch  of  cab- 
bages in  a  very  short  time  ;  a  garden,  however,  may  very  soon  be 
cleared  of  it.  First,  kill  every  one  that  you  meet  with  in  digging; 
next,  the  moment  you  see  a  plant  begin  to  flag,  dig  it  up  and  take 
up  the  worm.  If  the  worm  be  on  its  travels,  you  may  be  sure  that 
it  is  gone  to  the  next  plant,  to  ihe  right  or  to  the  left.  Pursue  it 
both  ways  with  the  spade,  and  ten  to  one  but  you  overtake  him. 
A  little  perseverance  in  this  way  will  soon  clear  a  garden  of  the 
Rookworm. 


PART   FOURTH. 


MONTHLY   OPERATIONS   IN   THE   KITCHEN 
GARDEN. 

The  precise  time  when  certain  descriptions  of  work  in  the  gar- 
den is  to  be  performed,  as  stated  in  the  following  calendar,  applies 
to  the  latitude  of  Philadelphia, — but  by  the  exercise  of  a  little 
judgment,  these  hints  may  be  made  serviceable  in  every  latitude  of 
our  widely  extended  country. 

January. 

During  this  month  but  little  may  be  done  in  the  kitchen  garden, 
and  w^e  may  as  well  pass  on  without  further  remark  than  that  it  is 
the  season  when  preparation  may  be  made  for  spring  labour,  by 
collecting  manure,  preparing  poles  for  beans,  rods  for  peas,  &c.  &c. 

Those  who  have  green-houses,  or  forcing-pits,  will  find  plenty 
to  attend  to,  but  this  work  does  not  profess  to  treat  of  such  matters. 

February. 
This  month,  like  January,  does  not  admit  of  much  out-door 
gardening  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Phi'n'elphia  :  though  fnrtiier 
south  it  is  the  season  of  most  active  labour.  From  the  Carolinas 
southward,  more  seeds  are  put  into  the  ground  in  February  than 
any  other  month  in  the  year,  and  in  that  respect  corresponds  with 
the  early  part  of  April  in  Pennsylvania. 

March. 

A  small  crop  of  Peas  of  the  early  kinds,  may  be  sow-n  about  the 

beginning,  and  of  marrowfats  and  other  larofer  sorts  towards  the 

end  of  the  month,  in   the  open  quarters  of  the  garden.     For  the 

early  and  dwarf  crops  sown  in  the  beginning  of  the  month,  from 


"UJB  THE    MANUAL   OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING. 

three  to  four  feet  will  be  quite  sufficient  between  the  rows,  and 
three  inches  deep. 

The  Early  York,  Landreth's  Large  York,  and  Early  Sugar-L  oaf 
Cabbage,  should  be  transplanted  this  month,  where  they  are  intend- 
ed to  remain.  When  the  plants  are  pretty  strong,  they  may,  in 
mild  open  weather,  be  planted  out  the  beginning  of  the  month  ; 
but  if  they  be  weakly,  or  much  hurt  by  the  frost,  they  should  not 
be  planted  out  before  the  end  of  the  month,  or  the  beginning  of 
April. 

Cauliflower  plants  in  frames  should  have  plenty  of  air  every 
mild  day,  by  entirely  removing  the  glasses.  Towards  the  end  of 
the  month,  transplant  some  of  the  stronger  plants  into  the  place  in 
the  garden  where  they  are  intended  to  remain.  Sliould  cold,  chilly 
weather  ensue,  great  benefit  will  be  found  from  protecting  them 
especially  at  night;  flower  jars  are  for  that  purpose  useful,  and  of 
easy  application. 

About  the  middle  or  end  of  the  month,  carrot  may  be  sown  for 
an  early  crop  on  a  light  border,  or  other  sheltered  spot,  but  the 
beginning  of  April  is  soon  enough  to  sow  the  principal  crop. 
Crops  of  such  seed  as  carrot,  and  some  others,  will  at  this  early 
season  be  much  benefited,  if  the  drills  in  which  they  are  to  be 
sown  be  half  filled  with  light  vegetable  mould,  on  which  the  seed 
must  be  sprinkled,  and  then  covered  with  the  same  kind  of  mould. 
In  strong  wet  soils,  this  should  be  particularly  attended  to,  as  seeds 
will  vegetate  quicker,  and  become  established  much  sooner  than 
if  sown  in  the  natural  ground. 

The  crops  of  lettuces  should  be  thinned  out  to  twelve  inches 
asunder  every  way,  and  those  taken  out  should  be  planted  in  a  rich 
and  sheltered  spot,  at  similar  distances. 

In  open  weather,  early  potatos,  such  as  the  Fox's  Seedling  and 
Ash-leaved  Kidney,  may  be  planted  ;  about  the  middle  of  the  month, 
sow  leeks,  onions,  and  lettuces,  and  Early  York  and  Landreth's 
Large  York  cabbages  for  succession.  A  small  sowing  of  early 
turnip  may  be  made  in  a  very  warm  situation,  and  on  very  rich: 
ground.  Asparagus  seed  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground.  The 
long-pod  and  Windsor  beans  should  be  planted  as  early  as  they 
can  be  put  into  the  ground,  so  as  to  blossom  before  the  heat  ar- 
rives ;  and  if  the  wea.*<':^f.r  be  mild,  sow  long  scarlet  and  red  turnip 
radish  for  the  first  early  crop;  also  spinach,  to  succeed  that  sown 
in  autumn. 

This  and  the  succeeding  month  are  favourable  for  transplanting 
fruit  trees.  If  the  reader  have  occasion  to  purchase,  let  us  caution 
him  against  doing  so  from  any  but  a  responsible  nurseryman — 
above  all,  avoid  aiidion  trees:  the  most  worthless  in  the  nursery 
are  frequently  selected  for  those  sales,  and  with  attractive  names 
sent  to  some  distant  point,  where  the  purchaser  cannot  have  redress 
when  the  deception  practised  on  him  is  made  evident  —  which, 
perhaps,  is  not  until  after  years  of  careful  culture. 


THE   MANUAL   OF   KITCHEN   GARDENING.  69 

Another  important  matter  connected  with  this  subject,  is  the 
method  in  which  the  trees  are  planted.  Let  it  be  done  deliberately 
and  with  care ;  if  the  ground  in  which  you  are  about  to  plant  be 
of  an  indifferent  quality,  provide  a  liberal  quantity  of  rich  earth  for 
each  tree,  and  cast  aside  that  which  is  taken  out  of  the  holes.  For  an 
ordinary  sized  nursery  tree,  the  holes  should  be  four  or  five  feet 
across,  and  nearly  as  many  deep;  the  excess  in  depth  to  be  filled  up 
with  the  good  earth  provided  for  that  purpose;  when  all  is  ready, 
place  the  tree  in  the  centre  of  the  hole,  w  ith  the  roots  and  fibres  spread 
out  horizontally  or  fan-shaped,  and  as  the  finely  pulverized  earth  is 
shovelled  in,  shake  the  tree  gently  to  admit  the  earth  among  the 
fibres.  When  the  hole  is  filled  up  to  the  proper  level,  the  tree 
should  not  stand  more  than  a  couple  of  inches  deeper  than  it  did 
before  removal,  which  can  be  readily  determined  by  the  colour  of 
the  bark.  A  stout  stake  to  keep  the  tree  steady  is  highly  useful,  and 
if  the  ensuing  warm  weather  be  dry,  give  a  little  water  from  time 
to  time — or  what  is  even  better,  protect  the  surface  of  the  ground 
for  a  few  feet  around  the  tree  with  litter,  or  any  other  material 
which  will  shade  and  arrest  evaporation. 

April. 

This  is  the  month  in  which  most  seeds  are  sown,  and  garden 
operations  performed  in  the  climate  of  Philadelphia.  The  weather 
has  usually  become,  by  the  first  fortnight  in  April,  comparatively 
settled;  severe  frost  may  no  longer  be  expected  ;  therefore,  if  the 
earth  be  sufficiently  dry,  and  the  weather  mild,  the  various  branches 
of  cropping  should  be  attended  to  with  diligence.  No  time  should 
be  lost  in  committing  to  the  soil  the  requisite  seeds  and  roots  of 
plants. 

In  light  dry  soils,  it  will  be  an  advantage  to  sow  and  plant 
early,  whereby  the  plants  will  gain  suflicient  strength  to  resist  the 
droughts  of  summer,  but  in  such  as  are  cold,  wet,  and  late,  the 
state  of  the  weather  must  determine  the  time  of  sowing.  It  is 
always  better  to  wait  until  the  ground  be  in  a  fit  state  to  receive 
the  seed,  than  to  sow  too  early,  as  many  of  the  less  hardy  seeds 
will  not  vegetate  freely,  indeed,  scarcely  at  all,  if  sown  at  this 
early  period  of  the  year,  when  the  ground  is  wet.  Rough-dig  all 
ground  not  immediately  required. 

The  gravel  walks  should  now  be  put  in  order  for  the  season. 

Plant  beans  of  any  kind,  for  all  sorts  succeed  well  from  this 
time  of  planting.  Now  plant  full  supplies  of  the  best  sorts  for 
principal  crops.  The  Windsor  and  long-podded  beans  may  still 
be  planted,  if  not  previously  done. 

Sow  marrowfat  or  other  late  peas,  once  a  fortnight,  or  three 
weeks  at  farthest,  particularly  some  dwarf  green  imperial  marrow- 
fats. All  the  sorts  should  now  be  sown  in  open  situations,  not 
under  low  spreading  trees.  Cover  the  peas  that  are  a  little  above 
ground  to  within  an  inch  of  their  whole  height  with  light  mould. 


70  THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN    GARDENING. 

•If  the  weather  be  dry,  give  a  little  water  to  settle  the  mould  about 
them  ;  if  frosty,  protect  them  for  a  few  nights  with  branches,  or 
any  other  slight  covering. 

Remove  the  cauliflower  plants  which  have  been  in  frames,  or  in 
warm  borders,  during  the  winter.  Raise  some  earth  to  the  stems 
of  the  plants,  which  are  under  bell  or  hand-glasses :  it  will 
Strenorthen  them,  and  assist  their  growth. 

Th->  glasses  may  still  be  kept  over  the  plants,  but  must  be  con- 
tinu.iUy  raised  at  least  a  hand's  breadth  high,  or  in  fine  days,  the 
glasses  may  be  taken  off,  and  let  the  plants  have  the  benefit  of 
warm  showers  of  rain. 

The  New  Zealand  spinach  should  be  sown  in  a  slight  hat-bed ; 
it  will  spread,  and  afford  an  abundant  supply. 

It  will  be  early  enough,  towards  the  middle  or  the  end  of  the 
month,  to  sow  broccoli ;  for  if  sown  earlier,  the  plants  are  apt  to 
start  or  button.  The  "  purple  cape"  succeeds  best  in  this  cli- 
mate. 

Both  red  and  white  celery  seed  should  be  sown.  If  the  seed  be 
sown  in  rich  vegetable  mould,  and  kept  rather  moist,  it  will  thrive 
the  better.     Water  the  bed  frequently  in  dry  weather. 

Drumhead,  Flat  Dutch,  and  Savoy  Cabbage  seed,  for  the  prin- 
cipal winter  crop,  should  be  sown  about  the  middle  or  towards  the 
latter  end  of  the  month,  in  an  open  situation. 

Transplant  cabbage  plants  of  all  kinds  into  the  pla«es  where 
they  are  to  remain  to  cabbage.  It  may  be  done  the  beginning  or 
middle  of  this  month,  but  if  the  plants  be  strong,  the  sooner  it  is 
now  done,  the  better.  Sow  the  seeds  of  cabbages  of  any  kind  for 
autumn  and  winter  use.  Red  cabbage  seed  should  also  be  sown 
towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  to  raise  some  plants  for  win- 
ter use. 

Sow  radishes,  both  the  earlier  sorts  and  the  yellow  turnip-rooted, 
for  a  succession. 

Continue  to  protect  mushroom  beds  from  frost  and  rain,  either 
of  which  would  destroy  the  spawn. 

Onions  should  be  sown  for  a  general  crop. 

May. 

Let  all  the  coverings  that  may  have  been  used  to  protect  either 
winter  or  early  spring  crops,  be  now  cleared  away.  Rough  dig 
all  vacant  ground,  and  hoe  and  rake  all  the  small  borders.  Use 
the  hoe  freely  amongst  crops  of  onions,  spinach,  &c.  Destroy  all 
weeds  as  they  appear.  Have  all  roots,  docks,  dandelions,  and 
similar  weeds,  carefully  dug  up  with  a  fork,  an'd  immediately  re- 
moved from  the  garden.     Be  careful  to  destroy  all  snails  and  slugs. 

After  a  shower  of  rain,  draw  the  earth  up  to  the  stems  of  cab- 
bages and  cauliflower  plants.  Birds  being  very  destructive  to  the 
seeds  of  all  the^  cabbage  tribe,  it  will  therefore  be  necessary  to 


THE   MANUAL   OF  KITCHEN  GARDENING.  71 

gaiard  them  by  covering  the  beds  with  mats,  or  with  old  fishing 
nets,  until  the  seeds  begin  to  vegetate. 

Sow  and  plant  all  sorts  of  cabbag^es,  and  earth  and  clear  from 
weeds  the  crops  already  planted.  Take  advantage  of  dry  weather 
to  stir  the  surface  about  the  stems  of  all  the  forward  crops  of  cab- 
bages, by  which  they  will  be  greatly  strengthened.  Sow  full  crops 
of  savoys  both  at  the  beginning  and  end  of  the  month. 

Peas  should  be  sown  t\\  it-e  this  month,  or  in  succession,  as  the 
previous  sowing  appears  above  ground.  Beans  likewise,  at  simi- 
lar intervals  of  time,  when  frequent  crops  are  required.  Of  the 
dwarf  kidney  or  bush  beans,  there  are  many  varieties;  among  the 
better  and  more  productive  kinds,  are  the  red  and  brown  valentine, 
and  China  red-eye. 

The  Lima  and  the  Carolina,  or  Servee  beans,  may  now  be 
planted. 

Rhubarb  may  be  sown  or  planted.  The  large  giant  rhubarb  is 
the  most  productive  in  the  open  ground,  and  Buck's  scarlet  for 
forcing. 

Carrots  should  now  be  sown, — the  long  orange  and  the  early 
horn,  are  the  finest  for  table  use.  A  full  crop  of  parsneps  should 
also  be  sown. 

The  celery  plants  which  were  sown  in  March  or  April,  for  an 
early  crop,  should  be  pricked  out  about  the  middle  or  latter  end  of 
this  month,  into  a  nursery-bed  of  rich  light  earth. 

Plant  the  main  crop  of  potatos.  This  is  the  best  month  in  the 
year  for  tlie  purpose.  Sets  should  now  be  used,  cut  to  two  or 
three  eyes  only. 

Continue  to  sow  and  transplant  lettuces  of  all  sorts.  Sow  each 
sort  separately,  and  repeat  the  sowings  and  plantings  once  every 
fortnight  or  three  weeks,  that  a  regular  supply  may  be  obtained. 
Sow  radishes  of  different  sorts  every  week  during  the  summer. 
Give  plenty  of  water  in  dry  weather  :  if  this  be  not  attended  to, 
tliey  will  be  hard,  and  unfit  for  use.     Thin  the  crops  already  sown. 

Peppers  or  capsicums,  and  tomatos,  may  be  sown  for  transplant- 
ing ;  cucumbers,  squashes,  nasturtiums,  and  otlicr  tender  vegeta- 
bles, may  now  be  safely  planted.  All  pot-herbs,  such  as  thyme, 
sage,  mint,  balm,  &c.,  should  now  be  planted. 

June. 

If  the  w^eather  in  this  month  prove  dry,  the  growth  of  many 
esculent  plants  will  be  considerably  retarded,  particularly  the  beans 
and  peas  which  are  in  flower,  the  blossoms  of  which  fall  off  before 
arriving  at  maturity,  and,  consequently,  are  not  succeeded  by  fruit. 
A  certain  degree  of  attention  is  therefore  necessary  to  give  a  reg- 
ular supply  of  water  to  the  growing  crops. 

There. is  no  work  in  the  kitchen  garden  which  at  this  time  re- 
quires greater  attention  tlian  the  eradication  of  weeds;  many  Avill 
liov.'  begin  to  perfect  their  seeds,  which,  being  shed  on  the  ground, 


Z2  THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN    GARDENING. 

will  occasion  a  considerable  de^ee  of  labour  for  several  j'ears  to 
accoinplisli  their  extirpation. 

Every  part  of  the  kitchen  garden  should  now  be  kept  in  a  neat 
and  well-regulated  coiidiu  jn  ;  and  a  constant  attention  should  be 
paid  to  the  progress  of  ail  seeds  committed  to  the  crround.  Those 
that  vegetate  freely  should  be  forwarded  by  hoeinir,  thinning,  and 
watering  ;  and  in  those  cases,  where  the  seed  has  failed,  it  should 
be  immediately  resown  :  no  time  should  be  lost  when  such  circum- 
stances occur.  vSome  crops,  such  as  beets,  onions,  parsneps,  and 
some  others,  may  be  restored  by  transplanting  ihem  from  those 
places  where  they  may  have  come  up  too  thick.  The  depredations 
of  insects  should  be  guarded  against  as  much  as  possible,  until 
the  crops  are  rather  advanced  ;  for  after  they  have  formed  their 
rough  or  perfect  leaves,  few  insects  attack  them,  at  least  not  so  as 
to  endanger  the  crop.  Wlien  recourse  is  had  to  watering,  it  should 
be  applied  as  late  in  the  afternoon  as  possible,  or  early  in  the 
morning,  but  never  during  the  middle  of  the  day.  When  the 
ground  can  be  kept  in  a  moist  state  during  the  warm  months  of 
summer,  the  most  luxuriant  crops  may  be  expected. 

Beans  and  Peas  for  late  crops  should  be  sown  both  at  the  begin- 
ning and  also  at  the  end  of  this  month.  Those  which  are  now  in 
blossom  should  be  examined  and  topped.  Earth  up  and  otherwise 
stir  the  surface  of  the  advancing  crops,  as  necessity  may  require. 
At  this  time,  the  crops  which  were  formerly  planted  should  be  hoed 
and  earthed  up.  Cabbage  and  broccoli  plants  which  are  fit  should 
be  planted  out.  Transplant  spring-sown  cabbage  of  all  sorts  for 
autumn  and  winter  use.  Earth  up  the  early  and  general  crops  of 
cabbage  as  they  advance;  the  former  will  now  be  advancing  to 
mat^irity,  and  may  be  forwarded  in  cabbaging,  if  the  leaves  be  tied 
together  with  strings  of  matting.  The  general  crops  of  onions 
should,  towards  the  middle  or  end  of  the  month,  be  cleared  from 
weeds  :  this  operation  should  be  performed  with  a  narrow  hoe, 
which  will  not  only  destroy  the  weeds,  but  by  stirring  up  the  sur- 
face, will  contribute  much  to  the  arowth  of  the  crop.  The  crops 
cf  p(;tatos  as  they  advance  should  be  earthed  up.  Prick  out  celery 
plants  sown  in  March  :  a  sli'^ht  watering  to  be  given  every  other 
evening.  Continue  to  sow  and  transplant  all  sorts  of  lettuces  :  give 
plenty  of  wat-.r  both  to  the  newly  sown  and  also  to  the  transplanted 
ones.  Tie  up  to  blanch  the  forward  crops  of  lettuces;  choosing 
a  dry  day  for  that  purpose.  A  full  crop  of  kidney  beans  may  now 
be  planted.  Propagate  by  sowing,  cuttings,  or  dividing  the  roots, 
all  sorts  of  herbs.  A  small  sowing  of  ruta  baga  may  now  be 
made,  deferring  the  })rincipal  one  till  the  middle  of  next  month. 
Beets  may  also  be  sown  for  a  late  v.inter  and  spring  supply  ;  the 
early  part  of  June  will  also  be  timely  for  the  sugar  beet,  if  not 
attended  to  tlie  preceding  month. 


the  manual  of  kitchen  gardening.  78 

July. 

Attend  to  many  of  the  directions  laid  down  for  the  month  of  June. 
Thin  all  crops  as  they  advance;  keep  the  hoe  in  full  employment  in 
every  part  of  the  garden.  Support  with  stakes  the  crops  that  may 
require  it,  and  water,  as  far  as  is  practicable,  every  thinor  that 
stands  in  need  of  it.  Destroy  insects,  eradicate  grubs,  which  at 
this  season  are  by  far  more  mischievous  in  the  garden  than  any 
other  object.  Destroy  slugs  by  picking,  or  by  watering  with  lime 
"water,  or  strewing  hot  lime  round  tlie  plants.  Where  watering  is 
necessary,  let  it  be  done  from  four  to  six  in  the  morning,  and  from 
six  to  nine  in  the  evening.  Sowing  may  be  principally  confined 
to  peas  and  ruta  baga  ;  of  the  former,  the  marrowfat,  once  in  ten 
days. 

August. 

From  the  10th  to  the  20th  of  this  month  is  the  usual  period  for 
sowing  the  main  crops  of  turnips  ;  if  the  weather  be  very  dry,  and 
the  earth  difficult  to  prepare,  it  may  be  deferred  for  a  few  days,  but 
it  is  better  to  get  the  crop  in  early,  inasmuch  as  the  fl}"^  sometimes 
makes  a  second  sowing  necessary.  Foudrette  is  said  lo  be  a  pro- 
tection against  their  ravages,  if  used  in  the  quantity  of  20  to  25 
bushels  per  acre. 

Hoe,  weed,  thin,  and  stir  the  surface  amongst  all  crops.  Water, 
shade,  and  attend  to  neatness  and  order.  Clear  off  all  crops  as 
soon  as  they  are  exhausted.  As  slugs  and  other  vermin  will  be 
now^ making  deplorable  ravages  amongst  crops  of  young  plants,  a 
constant  attention  is  r-equired  to  subdue  them.  Those  seeds  which 
are  ripening  should  be  gathered  when  dry,  and,  after  being  proper- 
ly hardened,  laid  by  for  use  in  a  dr}^  airy  seed-room. 

Some  seeds  retain  their  vegetative  properties  better  when  kept 
in  the  pods,  or  seed-vessels,  until  they  are  to  be  sown  in  the  spring ; 
these,  when  perfectly  dry,  should  be  hung  up  in  bunches  in  an  airy 
shed,  out  of  the  reach  of  frost.  Accordingly  as  the  crops  are  re- 
moved, let  the  ground  be  cleared  of  the  refuse,  either  by  iioeing  or 
raking,  or  rather  by  rough  digging,  which  w411  give  the  garden  a 
much  neater  appearance,  besides  very  much  improve  the  soil  by 
exposure  to  the  atmosphere. 

Watering  in  dry  weather  is  required  for  all  young  newly  pricked 
out  plants,  and  others  lately  planted  ;  and  to  seed-beds  in  particu- 
lar. In  rainy  or  showery  w^eather,  take  the  opportunity  to  sow, 
prick,  and  plant  all  necessary  crops  of  the  season  ;  and  to  plant 
slips,  offsets,  &c.,  of  aromatic  and  other  pot-herbs. 

September. 

In  this  month  several  principal  crops  are  to  have  the  finishing 
sowing  and  planting,  some  for  succession  in  the  present  autumn 
and  following  winter  ;  others  to  stand  the  winter  in  young  grow^th, 
to  come  in  for  early  crops  next  spring  and  summer.     The  ground 

7 


74  THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN    GARDENING. 

must  now  be  prepared  in  proper  time,  by  dunging  and  digging  for 
succeeding  crops.  Give  all  s))are  time  to  watering,  which,  if  the 
weather  be  without  rain,  is  essential  ;  and  attend  to  clearing  off 
all  decayed  crops,  and  to  fallowing  spare  ground. 

The  principal  sowing  crops  for  this  month  are  spinach,  lettuce, 
radishes,  turnips,  cabhage,  eoleworts,  and  succession  of  small 
salading,  as  cresses,  mustard,  &e. 

The  principal  planting  crops  are  included  under  celery,  endive, 
eoleworts,  and  leeks,  and  the  several  sorts  of  perennial,  aromatic, 
and  pot-herbs. 

This  is  universally  considered  tbe  chief  month  for  the  formation 
of  mushroom  heds.     {See  Mushroom.') 

About  the  middle  of  this  month  it  is  usual  to  sow  the  early  kinds 
of  cal)bage,  also  cauliflower  and  lettuce,  to  be  protected  during 
winter  in  cold  frames,  and  transplanted  to  tbe  open  ground  in 
March  and  April.  (See  directions.)  Cut  off  the  tops  of  parsley 
to  make  new  leaves  sprout  out  for  winter  use. 

October  and  November. 

In  these  months  all  sowing  and  principal  planting  should  b@ 
finished  for  this  year  ;  some  necessary  for  winter,  others  to  remain 
for  next  spring  and  summer.  At  this  season  many  crops  will  be 
consumed,  or  past  perfection.  The  ground  should  be  cleared  from 
the  refuse,  and  weeds  hoed  down,  or  the  ground  digged  ;  and  all 
advancing  crops  should  have  a  thorough  clearing  from  autumnal 
seed  weeds,  &c.  Some  want  earthing  up,  and  several  esculent 
roots  want  digging  up  to  preserve  for  winter  eating.  Take  up  all 
carrots  and  parsneps,  to  be  packed  in  sand  in  a  dry  place,  or  in 
pits,  like  potatos:  and  pare  off  the  crowns  clean,  in  order  to  pre- 
vent them  from  shooting  in  spring.  Horse-radish  may  now  be 
planted,  as  also  lettuce  and  endive.  Transplant  the  cabbages  of  the 
autumn  sowing,  and  any  other  greens,  the  planting  of  which  had 
been  neglected  last  month.  Dung  and  dig  vacant  ground,  ^^he 
business  of  sowing  and  planting  is  but  inconsiderable  at  this  sea- 
son ;  but  is  necessary  in  a  few  articles,  both  in  the  open  ground 
and  some  in  hot-beds.  Earth  up  celery,  and  prepare  it  to  keep 
during  winter  by  giving  proper  shelter.  Clear  the  advancing 
young  crops  from  weeds.  Winter  onions  and  spinach  to  be  care- 
full}'  hand-weeded  ;  hoe  between  advancing  young  crops  of  cole- 
worts,  cabbages,  broccoli,  savoys,  celery,  leeks,  lettuce,  endive, 
&c.,  loosening  the  surface  of  the  earth  about  the  plants,  which 
will  benefici.dly  encourage  their  growth,  and  the  hoeing  will  also 
kill  many  of  the  slugs  and  other  detrimental  vermin  lurking  in  the 
earth  at  this  season.  All  vacant  ground  should  be  forwarded  by 
dunging,  when  necessary,  and  digging  the  ground  in  ridges  to  im- 
prove for  planting  and  sowing  in  the  spring. 

This  is  the  season  for  setting  out  fruit  trees,  shrubbery,  &c.  If 
it  is  requisite  to  purchase  the  former,  be  sure  to  do  so  of  some  well' 


THE    MANUAL    OF    KITCHEN   GARDENING.  75 

knovm  nursery n^an^  else  the  chances  are  you  will  be  imposed  on. 
Little  reliance  ahould  be  p/aced  on  trees  sold  at  auction — they  are  fre- 
quently the  refuse  of  the  nursery,  and  probably  from  a  distance, 
where  redress  cannot  be  obtained  in  the  event  of  the  deception 
having"  been  detected.  For  full  directions  for  transplanting,  see 
page  80  of  this  work,  or  more  enlarged  remarks  in  the  Complete 
Florist,  a  little  work  in  which  many  hints  may  be  found,  useful 
to  country  residents. 

December. 

This  being  the  month  in  the  entire  year  in  which  the  least  is  lo 
be  done  in  the  way  of  sowing  and  planting,  the  active  gardener  is 
particularly  called  upon  to  prepare  to  the  best  advantage  the  soil 
for  succeeding  operations.  Everything  likely  to  suffer  from  the 
frost,  ought  to  be  well  protected.  If  the  weather  be  frosty,  and 
the  ground  hard,  and  unfit  for  the  spade,  let  the  manure  be  carried 
to  the  plots  which  are  to  receive  it.  If  the  weather  he  open,  let 
every  hour  be  occupied  by  the  spade ;  the  ground  to  be  laid  up  in 
ridges,  to  enrich  for  spring  sowing  and  planting.  Clear  away  de- 
caying stems,  dead  leaves,  and  all  useless  litter.  Dig  and  trench 
vacant  ground,  applying  manure  as  requisite.  Pick  out  from  stores 
of  edible  roots  such  as  are  decaying.  Take  away  damp  straw, 
and  keep  seeds  dry. 


THE  FRUIT-GARDEN. 


Apple-trees. — To  procure  fruit-trees,  perhaps  the  best  method 
is  to  purchase  the  young  trees  from  the  nursery-ground,  where  you 
may  obtain  good  young  trees,  generally  speaking;  bui  if  it  be 
preferred  to  propagate  the  trees  altogether,  they  may  be  grafted  on 
stocks  raised  from  apple  pips.  We  shall  subjoin  clear  but  concise 
directions  for  performing  the  operation  of  grafting  and  budding 
hereafter,  and  proceed  now  to  the  training. 

The  training  and  pruning  the  apple-tree  in  garden  culture  is  an 
art  but  little  practised  in  this  country;  in  Europe,  on  the  contrary, 
every^  garden,  however  limited  its  extent,  has  a  few  trees  trained 
on  espaliers  beside  the  walks,  or  against  the  walls  and  fences.  It 
would  surprise  those  unacquainted  with  that  mode  of  culture  to  be 
told  the  quantity  of  fruit,  of  the  finest  quality,  thus  obtained. — 
Perhaps  some  of  our  readers  may  desire  to  know  the  method  pur- 
sued in  such  culture  :   we  therefore  subjoin  the  following  details. 

Apple-trees  are  trained  in  three  different  ways:  first  as  standards, 
which  is  the  method  pursued  in  orchards  and  large  gardens;  then 
as  espaliers,  which  is  a  very  advantageous  method  for  small  gar- 
dens, but  trees  so  trained  require  very  constant  attention  to  keep 
them  in  good  order;  but  when  they  are  properly  attended  to,  per- 
haps more  fruit  is  obtained  thus  than  by  any  other  method.  Some 
kinds  of  apples  will  succeed  against  a  wall,  but  as  a  general  rule 
it  is  by  no  means  a  good  method  ;  when  it  is  resorted  to,  they  may 
be  either  trained  horizontally,  or  by  the  fan-training — the  latter  is 
best  where  the  wall  is  more  than  six  feet  high,  as  the  tree  will 
thus  sooner  fill  its  allotted  space. 

Pruning.  —  Apple-trees  produce  their  fruit  upon  short  spurs 
growing  from  the  sides  and  ends  of  the  branches,  and  the  same 
branches  continue  bearing  many  years,  increasing  their  quantity 
of  spurs  as  they  gradually  advance  in  length  :  it  may  therefore  be 
observed  that,  in  the  general  course  of  pruning  these  trees,  their 
branches  and  shoots  are  not  to  be  shortened,  but  trained  along 
horizontally  to  the  espalier  or  wall  at  their  natural  length,  at  least 
as  far  as  there  is  room  to  extend  them.  While  young  trees  are 
advancing,  and  require  a  farther  supply  of  young  wood,  retain  a 
proper  quantity  of  the  last  summer's  shoots  when  you  prune  in 
winter,  those  that  are  the  best  placed,  and  always  a  terminal  shoot 
to  each  mother  branch,  and  cut  out  all  the  superfluous  and  irregular 
7*  •  •     -  (77) 


78  THE   FRUIT-GARDEN. 

ones ;  but  in  full-trained  or  old  trees  retain  the  former  trained-bear- 
ing branches  as  long  as  they  continue  fruitful,  and  cut  out  worn  or 
decayed  branches,  or  any  that  are  too  much  crowded,  cutting  close 
to  the  main  branches.  In  pruning  have  particular  care  to  preserve 
all  the  fruit-spurs.  Trees  which  have  arrived  at  full  bearing,  and 
have  filled  the  space  allotted  to  them,  require  little  more  pruning 
than  merely  to  regulate  their  spurs. 

Standard  trees,  or  such  as  form  our  regular  apple  orchards,  re- 
quire comparatively  little  attention  after  they  are  well  established, 
further  than  to  prune  luxuriant  wood,  and  to  guard  against  the  in- 
sects, particularly  the  Wer,  which  is  now  making  dreadful  havoc 
with  the  apple-trees  in  the  region  around  Philadelphia.  Most  per- 
sons who  cultivate  the  apple,  which  is  par  excellence  the  fruit  of 
America,  do  so  in  the  standard  or  orchard  mode,  and  the  abundant 
supply  which  is  found  in  most  sections,  bears  evidence  that  no  im- 
penetrable mystery  enshrouds  the  mode  of  treatment.  In  too  many 
instances,  all  that  the  proprietors  seem  to  think  their  duty,  is  to 
plant,  leaving  chance  to  perform  the  rest.  How  many  orchards 
do  we  see  in  which  the  knife  or  pruning-saw  has  never  entered ! 
knotted,  snagged,  and  moss-grown,  browsed  by  cattle^  and  the  prey 
of  insects,  they  miserably  linger,  yielding  but  a  tithe  of  what 
might  be  looked  for  under  better  treatment.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that, 
as  the  light  of  horticultural  science  is  extended,  a  truer  course  may 
be  pursued — interest,  the  ruling  passion,  will  enforce  a  change. 

Renovating  old  trees  is  one  of  the  greatest  improvements  of 
modern  practice.  When  a  fruit-tree  has  covered  its  allotted  space, 
it  can  only  be  kept  in  bounds  by  the  knife,  and  this  counteracts  the 
natural  growth  so  much  that  the  vigour  of  the  tree  is  exhausted  in 
the  production  of  barren  shoots.  To  bring  such  trees  into  a  bear- 
ing state,  the  present  method  is  to  cut  oflf  carefully  and  smoothly 
all  the  largest  barren  branches,  which  have  grown  away  from  the 
wall,  leaving  the  main  branches  like  naked  poles.  The  summer 
shoots  from  these  are  regulated  by  displacing  all  the  fore-right  and 
the  weakest,  leaving  the  most  promising  to  be  nailed  to  the  wall ; 
the  points  of  these  reserved  shoots,  except  the  leading  ones,  are 
pinched  off  soon  after  midsummer;  this  swells  the  buds  below, 
and  at  the  winter  pruning  they  are  shortened  to  from  four  to  six 
inches  in  length,  and  in  a  year  or  two  they  become  covered  with 
fruit-buds  and  spurs.  Another  method  is  to  cut  out  every  other 
branch,  and  place  thereon  one  or  two  grafts,  which  are  to  be  trained 
up  to  take  their  place,  and  in  a  year  or  two  after  cutting  back  the 
remaining  branches,  which  are  also  grafted  and  trained  in  the  same 
manner ;  or  if  the  whole  tree  is  cut  down  and  grafted  at  once,  either 
with  its  own  or  a  superior  sort,  the  result  will  be  a  regenerated 
tree,  prolific  and  healthy.  In  the  same  way  all  naked  parts  of  fruit 
trees  may  be  brought  into  form  and  fruitfulness  by  grafting  and 
budding,  and  trees  so  treated  will  attain  a  large  size  in  four  years, 
and  give  more  fruit  than  a  new  planted  tree  will  in  ten. 


THE   FRUIT-GARDEN.  79 

^    Espalier  Training. — Espaliers  are  very  convenient  in  small 
gardens,  as  tliey  form  a  kind  of  liedge  on  each  side  of  a  path,  thus 
occupying  but  little  room,  and  generally  bearing  well.     'J'he  trees 
should  iirst  be  trained  to  one  central  shoot;  and  tiiis  must  be  con- 
stantly headed  down,  till  it  throws  out  a  sufficient  number  of  lateral 
shoots,  which  are  to  be  spread  out  in  a  horizontal  direction ;  never 
being  stopped  till  they  have  attained  the  length  you  choose  them 
finally  to  occupy,  when  the  end  should  be  cut  off,  which  will  cause 
them  to  throw  out  other  laterals  and   fruit-spurs.     In  planting  a 
tree,  which  you  design  to  train  as  an  espalier,  select  one  which  has 
a  good  strong  shoot  coming   up   from   the  graft.     Whether  it  is 
planted  in  the  spring  or  autumn,  (the  latter  is  best,  if  it  be  not  left 
too  late,)  let  the  tree  stand   till  the  buds  begin  to  break  in  the 
spring;  then  cut  the  shoot  down  to  within  three  buds  of  the  bot- 
tom ;  cut  in  a  sloping  direction,  and  let  the  cut  end  be  near  where 
the  top  bud  is  coming  out;  these  buds  will   make  three  upright 
shoots.     About  the  middle  of  July  take  the  two  bottom  shoots, 
and  as  they  stand  one  on  each  side  of  what  must  now  be  con- 
sidered as  the  main  stem  or  trunk,  bend  them  down  horizontally, 
and  tie  each  of  them  to  two  little  stakes,  driven  firmly  into  the 
ground.     These  stakes  should  be  made  of  spine  oak,  or  the  trunks 
of  young  locust  trees,  cut  down  in  winter,  and  their  branches  trim- 
med off  close;  these  will  last  for  many  years:  wliile  indifferent 
stakes  will  rot  off,  and  require  renewing  in  a  few  years.     The 
shoots  are  to  be  tied  to  these  stakes  by  bass  matting;  and  the  top 
shoot  is  to  be  suffered  to  go  on  till  about  the  end  of  the  month, 
when  you  should  take  off  the  top  from  that  shoot.     In  the  spring 
cut  off  the  top  shoot  again,  to  within  five  buds  of  the  first  lateral 
branches ;  cut  two  of  these  buds,  and   you  will  then  again  havs 
three  shoots,  two  for  training  horizontally,  and  one  to  grow  upright ; 
3'ou   must   train   the   horizontal   shoots  as  before,  which  will,  of 
course,  require  longer  stakes :  and  these  stakes  will  also  support 
the  lower  shoots,  which  having  grown  longer,  will  require  further 
support.      Proceed  thus  year  after  year,   leaving  the   horizontal 
shoots  at  from  seven  to  nine  inches  apart,  the  lowest  being  only  a 
few  inches  from  the  ground  ;  you  may  carry  thern  to  what  height 
you  please,  but  they  are  seldom  carried  higher  than   six  or  seven 
feet.     In  gathering  apples  grown  on  spurs,  care  should  be  taken 
not  to  pull  the  spur  off.    In  pruning  there  needs  no  new  supply  of 
limbs  or  shoots,  therefore  the  little  side  shoots  that  come  out  of  the 
limbs  may  be  cut,  either  clean  out,  or,  if  there  be  a  deficiency  of 
spurs,  leave  one  or  two  buds,  if  the  joint  be  short;  and  these  will 
often  send  out  spurs.     In  the  second  year  after  planting  the  tree, 
when  you  have  got  two  lateral  shoots  trained  horizontally,  and  one 
upright  shoot,  each  of  the  lateral  shoots  will   send  out  two   side 
shoots  near  their  point,  and  one  at  their  point;  the  last  is  to  be 
suffered  to  go  straight  forward,  but  the  others  are  to  be  cut  off, 
leaving  only  one  bud ;  the  same  is  to  be  repeated  each  year,  till 


80  THE   FRUIT-GARDEN. 

you  have  a  limb  as  long  as  you  may  require,  furnished  with  spurs 
its  whole  length  ;  and  when  you  do  not  choose  the  limb  to  extend 
any  further,  cut  off  its  point,  as  before  observed. 

In  pruning^  these  trees,  observe  that  the  same  branches  remain 
many  years  in  a  fruitful  state,  and  it  is  requisite,  when  the  bearers 
become  closer  than  from  four  to  six  inches  apart,  some  must  be 
pruned  out  in  January  or  February  ;  take  off  such  as  are  worst 
situated,  or  are  least  likely  to  bear,  from  being  worn  out,  or  not 
well  furnished  with  fruit-spurs.  \\  hen  it  is  requisite  to  make 
room  in  a  particular  part  of  the  tree  for  any  branch  that  is  evi- 
dently well  adapted  for  bearing,  let  some  of  the  most  irregular 
limbs  be  cut  out;  and  always  when  old  or  large  branches  are  taken 
out,  cut  them  close  to  the  stem,  or  to  any  lateral  branch  which  they 
support,  and  in  cutting  out  branches,  never  leave  any  part  above 
the  juncture  of  the  next  branch. 

A  new  and  very  successful  method  of  training  apple-trees,  simi- 
lar to  that  employed  for  the  red  currant,  has  been  recently  adopted. 
All  the  lateral  branches  are  cut  off  as  they  arise  to  within  one  or 
two  inches  of  the  main  branches,  after  a  few  3'ears  these  become 
well  furnished  with  fruit-bearing  spurs,  and  trees  thus  trained  not 
only  occupy  much  less  room  than  espaliers,  but  are  more  pro- 
ductive. 

Planting. — When  the  grafted  stock  is  well  established,  it  may 
be  desirable  to  remove  it  to  the  spot  it  is  finally  designed  to  oc- 
cupy ;  in  doing  this  it  should  he  kept  out  of  the  ground  as  little 
time  as  possible,  and  during  that  short  period  the  roots  should  be 
carefully  covered.  In  transplanting  a  young  tree  great  care  should 
be  observed,  particularly  if  it  has  stood  above  a  year  on  the  spot.  In 
removing  all  young  trees  out  avoid  as  much  as  possible  tearing  the 
roots:  you  should  commence  b)^  digging  away  the  earth  at  a  little 
distance  all  round  the  tree,  to  a  considerable  depth,  so  that  the  tree 
will  be  almost  ready  to  tumble  down  by  itself;  for  in  pulling  with 
any  violence  you  may  break  the  roots,  and  if  any  large  root  be 
broken  otf  near  the  stem,  the  tree  will  have  a  defective  root,  and  be 
a  considerable  time  before  it  recovers.  When  you  have  got  the 
tree  out  of  the  ground,  cut  off  all  the  larger  shoots  of  the  roots  to 
wilhin  six  inches  of  the  stem.  You  must  now  make  a  hole  to 
receive  the  tree,  which  hole  should  be  deeper  and  wider  than 
is  requisite  for  the  mere  reception  of  the  root.  Break  the  earth  at 
the  bottom  of  the  hole,  which  must  be  of  a  depth  to  place  the  tree 
about  the  same  level,  when  it  is  placed  in  it,  as  it  stood  before  it 
was  removed.  If  the  tree  is  placed  against  a  wall,  the  head  should 
lean  gently  against  the  wall,  and  the  bottom  of  the  trunk  stand 
about  eight  or  ten  inches  from  it.  But  if  it  is  to  be  a  standard,  it 
should  be  held  perfectly  upright,  and,  while  thus  held,  fine  earth 
should  be  shaken  gently  upon  the  roots.  The  tree  must  then  be 
shaken  a  little  to  cause  the  earth  to  fall  completely  in  among  the 
roots,  filling  up  the  interstices,  touching  and  covering  closely  all 


THE  FRUIT-QARDEN.  81 

round  the  roots.  When  you  have  covered  all  the  roots,  fill  up  the 
hole  with  the  soil  which  was  dug  out  of  it,  taking  care  to  break  it. 
Before  you  have  filled  in  all  the  earth,  tread  gently  round  the  tree, 
beginning  about  a  foot  distance  from  the  stem,  and  passing  round 
and  round  to  within  three  or  four  inches  of  it,  then  put  the  rest  of 
the  mould  over  the  treading,  and  leave  a  kind  of  trench  or  ditch 
beyond  the  trodden  part  to  convey  the  moisture  dov/n  to  the  roots. 
If  it  be  late  in  the  spring  when  you  plant,  lay  a  little  short  litter 
into  this  trench,  and  give  the  tree  a  watering  occasionally  until  the 
month  of  July,  unless  the  season  be  a  rainy  one. 

To  preserve  apples  for  late  winter  and  spring  use,  various  modes 
have  been  adopted.  We  have  now  before  us  (May,  1844)  some 
half-dozen  or  more  kinds  in  excellent  preservation,  whicli  have 
been  kept  in  a  cellar  packed  in  barrels,  the  interstices  filled  with 
dry  sand,  to  exclude  air.  A  very  successful  cultivator  of  this  fruit 
has  assured  us  that  for  thirty  years  he  has  pursued  the  above 
method  of  preserving  apples,  and  with  uniform  success. 

The  following  named  kinds  of  apples  are  such  as  the  inexpe- 
rienced may  plant  with  certainty  of  good  results;  they  are  well 
known  and  fully  tested  varieties,  suited  to  all  seasons.  Many 
other  kinds  having  equal  merit  could  be  added  to  the  list,  but  the 
limits  of  our  Manual  will  not  admit.  Those  who  seek  further  in- 
formation may  consult  "  Coxe  on  Fruit-Trees,"  and  "  Kenrick's 
American  Orchardist,"  both  excellent  publications ;  from  the  for- 
mer we  have  copied  the  following  descriptions: — 

Bough  Apple. — ^The  size  of  this  apple  when  on  young  trees,  in 
rich  ground,  is  sometimes  large;  the  form  is  rather  oblong — full, 
even,  and  fair;  the  skin  is  a  very  pale  yellow,  the  flesh  white, 
sweet,  tender,  juicy  ancl  well  flavoured  ;  it  is  the  finest  early  table 
apple  we  have ;  and  as  an  eating  apple,  is  preferred  to  any  other 
at  the  season  in  which  it  ripens,  which  is  in  July  and  August. 

Summer  Queen. — The  Summer  Queen  is  an  apple  of  the  finest 
quality,  and  its  appearance  is  uncommonly  beautiful.  The  size  is 
large;  the  skin  has  a  fine  rich  yellow  ground,  mixed  with  red, 
handsomely  striped  and  clouded,  sometimes  in  a  proportion  greater 
than  the  yellow ;  the  blossom  end  is  much  pointed,  and  full  of  lit- 
tle furrows  and  protuberances;  the  stalk  is  long,  and  planted  in  a 
deep  cavity,  with  projections  of  the  flesh  around  the  stalk,  like  the 
Roman  stem  ;  the  flesh  is  rich,  yellow,  and  highly  scented,  equally 
suited  for  eating  and  stewing.  It  is  not  fully  ripe  until  the  be- 
ginning of  August,  but  can  be  used  for  stewing  long  before  that 
time. 

Summer  Rose. — This  is  an  apple  of  singular  beauty  and  excel- 
lence, both  for  eating  and  stewing :  the  size  is  moderate,  the  form 
flat,  the  skin  smooth,  of  a  beautiful  yellow,  resembling  wax, 
blended  with  red  in  streaks  and  blotches;  the  flesh  is  sweet, 


82  THE   FRUIT-GARDEN. 

sprightly  and  juicy;  it  does  not  become  fully  ripe  till  August,  but 
is  an  excellent  stewing  apple  in  July. 

Early  Summer  Pear  main. — This  is  one  of  the  finest  fruits  of  the 
season  ;  frequently  preferred  to  a  fine  pear :  the  size  is  middling-, 
the  form  oblong,  uniformly  regular,  the  ends  both  deeply  indented 
— the  colour  in  the  shade  is  a  dull  red,  somewhat  streaked  and 
faintly  spotted  ;  in  the  sun  it  is  frequently  of  a  lively  red,  blended 
with  a  rich  yellow:  the  juice  is  abundant  until  too  ripe;  the  flesh 
sinorularly  tender — it  frequently  cracks  open  on  the  tree,  and  bursts 
from  its  own  weight  in  falling;  it  is  equally  adapted  to  the  table 
and  stewing,  and  is  probably  the  most  popular  apple  of  the  sea- 
son, which  commences  with  the  first  of  August — it  being  very  free 
from  rotting. 

Cvdling. — The  Codling,  called  also  the  English  Codling,  is  a 
very  fine  fruit  for  pies  and  stewing,  and  is  also  a  pleasant  table 
apple:  it  grows  very  large  and  fair;  the  form  is  oblong,  rather 
irreorular ;  the  skin  is  a  bright,  though  pale  j'ellow,  with  a  fine 
blush  frequently  towards  the  sun — it  is  somewhat  pointed  towards 
the  blossom  end;  the  stalk  short,  the  flesh  white,  tender,  and 
sprightly.  The  tree  is  uncommonly  handsome,  vigorous,  and 
fruitful ;  bearing  very  young,  and  constantly — the  leaves  are  large 
— it  makes  a  fine  appearance  in  an  orchard  :  the  fruit  is  fit  for 
stewing  from  the  first  of  August,  but  does  not  become  fully  ripe  till 
the  end  of  that  month,  and  continues  in  season  till  late  in  October: 
it  is  one  of  the  most  profitable  apples  for  market,  ripening  gradual- 
ly, and  being  very  free  from  rot. 

Maiden'' s  Blush. — This  is  an  apple  of  large  size,  and  great  beauty ; 
exhibiting  a  lively  contrast:  a  yellow  ground,  with  a  bright  red 
check,  whence  it  derives  its  name,  given  to  it  by  Samuel  Allinson, 
Esq.,  late  of  Burlington,  who  first  brought  it  into  notice;  the  form 
is  flat,  the  skin  smooth,  the  flesh  white,  tender  and  sprightl}'^,  re- 
markably light,  and  fitted  for  drying,  for  which  it  is  preferred  to 
any  apple  of  the  season :  the  stalk  is  short,  and  grows  in  a  deep 
hollow,  as  does  the  eye — the  fruit  ripens  in  August,  and  continues 
in  perfection  till  the  end  of  September,  and  is  fit  both  for  pies  and 
the  table:  the  tree  is  uncommonly  handsome,  as  well  as  vigorous 
in  its  growth,  forming  a  fine  open  and  spreading  head;  it  bears 
abundantly  and  constantly,  and  is  a  very  popular  apple  in  the 
Philadelphia  market. 

Fall,  or  Holland  Pippin. — This  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most 
beautiful  apples  of  the  season  ;  the  size  is  very  large — it  generally 
weighs  a  pound  ;  the  form  is  rather  long  than  flat,  the  skin  smooth 
and  fair — of  a  clear,  pale  greenish  yellow  ;  the  flesh  pale  yellow, 
juicy,  tender,  sprightly,  and  finely  flavoured  :  it  is  a  very  popular 
apple  for  market,  and  is  used  both  for  eating  and  cooking ;  the 
stalk  is  short — it  is  very  deeply  indented  at  both  ends;  it  ripens  in 
October,  and  keeps  well  as  a  fall  apple — the  tree  grows  very  vigor- 


THE    FRUIT-GARDEN.  83 

ously,  handsome  and  spreading,  with  uncommonly  large  shoots 
and  leaves. 

TVhite  Siueeiing. — This  is  a  large,  fair,  pale  yellow  apple,  rather 
of  an  oblong  shape ;  the  flesh  is  while,  sweet,  and  tough,  of  a 
pleasant  taste — and  makes  excellent  food  for  hogs,  and  very  fine 
cider  in  September.  The  tree  grows  very  handsomely  and  vigor- 
ously, and  thrives  uncommonly  well  on  sandy  ground  :  it  has  been 
much  cultivated  in  the  neiglibourhood  of  Burlington,  N.  J.,  where 
it  is  known  by  the  name  of  Wctheriil's  White  Sweeting. 

Pomme  D^ipis. — This  apple  is  called  in  New-York  the  Lady 
Apple,  from  the  beauty  of  its  appearance ;  it  is  of  a  very  small 
size,  and  flat  form — the  colour,  when  ripe,  a  brilliant  yellow,  with 
a  dark  red  cheek;  the  skin  smooth,  the  iiesh  white,  crisp,  breaking, 
and  of  a  very  delicate  taste,  with  very  little  core;  the  juice  mild 
and  agreeable,  the  seeds  small,  short  and  wide;  the  tree  ffrows  re- 
markably straight,  with  upright  branches,  and  is  of  middling  size. 
In  France,  from  whence  it  was  imported,  it  is  sometimes  called 
Long-bois,  or  Longwood — the  fruit  grows  in  clusters;  it  is  a  late 
but  abundant  bearer ;  it  keeps  well  during  the  winter,  and  hangs 
late  on  the  tree:  it  is  a  much  admired  dessert  apple;  no  trees 
make  a  more  handsome  appearance  in  an  orchard  ;  the  leaves  are 
small,  and  the  wood  dark,  approaching  to  a  black. 

Bell-Flower. — A  remarkably  large,  beautiful,  and  excellent  apple, 
both  for  the  dessert  and  for  cooking;  it  is  of  a  pale,  but  bright 
and  fair  yellow  colour;  the  cheek  next  the  sun  has  sometimes  a 
blush,  but  more  frequently  is  without  any  red  :  the  form  is  oblong, 
somewhat  pointed  at  the  blossom  end — both  ends  are  deeply  in- 
dented— the  flesh  is  rich, Juicy,  tender  and  sprightly;  it  has  un- 
commonly large  full  seeds,  which  are  lodged  in  a  pericarpium  of 
unusual  size,  and  if  shaken  can  be  distinctly  heard;  it  ripens  late 
in  October,  when  its  great  weight  causes  it  to  fall  in  windy  weather 
— if  carefully  picked  before  they  are  too  ripe,  they  will  keep  in 
high  perfection  through  the  winter,  till  late  in  the  spring,  especial- 
ly when  they  are  shrivelled  or  wilted. 

TVine  Jlpple. — An  uncommonly  large,  fair,  handsome  red  apple 
— the  form  is  round,  flat  at  the  ends:  the  skin  is  a  lively  red, 
streaked  and  spotted  with  a  small  portion  of  yellow :  the  stalk  end 
frequently  of  a  russet  colour,  both  en'ls  deeply  indented  ;  the  stalk 
very  short,  the  taste  is  rich  and  pleasant,  an  admired  table  fruit, 
and  excellent  for  cooking  as  well  as  for  cider;  it  ripens  in  October, 
and  keeps  well  through  the  fall  and  winter. 

Esnpus  Spifzemberg, — This  apple  possesses  great  beauty,  and 
exquisite  flavour  ;  it  is  said  to  have  originated  in  the  vicinity  of 
Albany  —  it  is  supposed  to  deteriorate  when  transplanted  to  the 
south  of  the  Hiirhlands  on  the  Hudson  River.  In  size,  it  is  a 
large  apple;  in  form  oblong — a  fur  and  smooth  skin,  t!ie  colour  a 
lively  and  brilliant  red,  approaching  to  a  scarlet,  with  numeroua 


84  THE    FROIT-flARDEN. 

small  yellow  spots — the  flesh  is  yellow,  and  singularly  rich,  juicy 
and  sprightly ;  the  stem  is  of  moderate  length,  planted  in  a  deep 
hollow,  the  end  projecting  a  little  beyond  the  level  of  the  fruit:  its 
maturity  is  about  Christoias. 

Kaighti's  Spitzcmberg. — This  apple  has  a  faint  resemblance  to  the 
Esopus  Spitzemberg,  but  is  more  pointed  towards  the  crown;  the 
colour  is  a  lively  but  pale  red,  faintly  streaked,  and  full  of  white 
spots :  the  skin  is  smooth,  the  stem  long  and  deeply  planted,  the 
crown  very  hollow — the  flesh  finely  flavoured,  yellow,  juicy  and 
tender ;  a  beautiful  early  winter  fruit,  highly  deserving  of  propa- 
gation. The  tree  is  of  spreading  growth,  and  a  very  unsightly 
form ;  its  name  is  derived  from  a  family  residing  in  Gloucester 
county.  New  Jersey,  where  it  was  first  cultivated.* 

Cumberland  Spice. — ^This  apple  was  brought  from  Cumberland 
county,  New  Jersey.  It  is  a  fine  fall  and  early  winter  fruit  for  the 
table — the  size  is  large,  the  form  rather  long,  lessening  towards  the 
point ;  the  colour  a  pale  yellow ;  the  stalk  short  and  thick,  with  a 
small  cavity  around  it;  tlie  flesh  is  remarkably  white,  tender,  and 
easy  of  digestion;  the  pericafpium  large  and  hollow;  the  skin  full 
of  clouds  of  black  dots  near  the  stem,  apt  to  shrivel  after  keeping 
some  time ;  the  trees  are  thrifty  and  fruitful. 

Newtown  Pippin. — This  is,  in  most  of  its  varieties,  the  finest 
apple  of  our  country,  and  probably  of  the  world.  It  varies  much 
in  quality,  with  soil,  aspect,  cultivation,  climate  and  age:  although 
peculiarly  adapted  to  strong  high  ground,  it  may  be  raised  in  great 
perfection  on  all  good  wiieat  and  clover  land;  the  better  the  soil, 
the  finer  will  be  the  fruit — for  the  growth  is  not  vigorous,  and  in 
every  soil  the  bark  has  a  rough  appearance ;  the  form  is  rather 
flat,  tliC  size  large,  the  skin  a  greenish  yellow,  with  black  clouds, 
and  frequently  with  red  spots  or  blotches;  the  ends  are  hollowed, 
the  stem  short,  the  flesh  rich,  yellow,  juic)%  breaking  and  highly 
flavoured ;  it  ripens  in  November,  and  is  often  kept  till  May  and 
June — it  is  a  superior  table  fruit,  and  an  excellent  kitchen  and 
cider  apple. 

JVincsap. — This  is  one  of  our  best  cider  fruits,  and  is  much  es- 
teemed as  a  good  eating  apple;  the  size  is  middling,  the  form 
round,  lessening  a  little  towards  the  crown  ;  the  skin  is  smooth, 
the  colour  a  dark  red,  with  a  small  portion  of  yellowy  and  some- 
times a  few  streaks  ;  the  flesh  is  rich,  yellow,  and  tolerably  juicy, 
pleasant,  and  sweet;  the  cider  produced  from  it  is  vinous,  clear, 
and  strong — equal  to  any  fruit  liquor  of  our  country  for  bottling. 
The  apples  hang  late,  and  make  good  cider  without  housing;  they 
will  however  repay  all  the  expense  of  complete  maturation  in  an 
airy  loft,  by  the  increased  flavour  of  the  liquor — the  tree  is  well 
adapted  to  light  soils :  of  one  hundred  trees  I  planted  on  a  sandy 


*  The  late  Joseph  Kaighn,  Esq.,  of  Kaighn's  Point. 


THE   FRUIT-GARDEN.  85 

blowing  knoll  eight  3'ears  ago,  and  well  cultivated,  not  one  has 
died — every  tree  bears  fine  fair  apples ;  it  is  becoming  the  most 
favourite  cider  fruit  in  West  Jersey,  The  form  of  °  he  tree  is 
irregular,  the  branches  often  grow  downwards,  and  render  it  diffi- 
cult to  train  in  a  handsome  sliape;  it  bears  more  uniformly  than 
any  fruitful  kind  with  which  I  am  acquainted. 

Carthimse. — This  apple  is  said  to  liave  been  brought  from  Vir- 
ginia— it  obtained  its  name  from  a  family  in  the  Delaware  State. 
It  is  highly  esteemed  for  its  excellence  as  a  table  apple  late  in  the 
spring,  and  as  a  good  cider  fruit:  it  is  a  most  abundant  bearer,  and 
hangs  on  the  tree  very  late  in  the  season;  the  tree  is  hardy,  of  a 
handsome,  open,  spreading,  and  vigorous  growth  —  the  fruit  is 
small,  the  colour  a  deep  red,  sometimes  a  little  streaked  with  yel- 
low— the  skin  of  a  polished  smoothness  ;  the  form  inclining  to  an 
oblong;  the  flesh  is  very  firm,  yellow,  and  rich,  not  fit  for'^eating 
until  mid-winter,  when  it  becomes  juicy,  tender,  and  finely  fl-^ 
voured. 

TewJishury  Winter  Blush. — This  apple  was  brought  from  the 
township  of  Tevvksbury  in  Hunterdon  county.  New  Jersey;  it  is 
a  very  handsome,  fair  fruit,  with  more  flavour  and  juiciness  than 
is  to  be  usually  found  in  keeping-apples ;  I  have  eaten  them  in 
good  condition  in  August  of  the  second  year,  preserved  without 

particular  care,  perfectly  plump  and  sound.     The  size  is  small 

the  form  round — the  skin  smooth  ;  the  colour  yellow,  with  a  bright 
red  cheek — the  flesh  yellow,  tolerably  juicy,' and  well  flavoured, 
with  a  considerable  degree  of  sprightliness ;  the  tree  is  of  vigor- 
ous growth,  straight,  and  well  formed — the  fruit  hangs  late  in^'the 
autumn. 

Apricot. — In  propagating  this  treo,  if  it  is  not  purchased  from 
the  nursery,  the  stock  proper  to  bud  or  graft  on  is  the  plum,  though 
it  is  more  generally  budded  on  the  peach,  and  we  have  heard  per- 
sons of  experience  give  that  stock  the  preference;  it  certainly 
grows  more  luxuriantly  on  the  peach,  and  with  due  care  attains 
comparatively  a  great  age.  The  apricot  is  not  subject  to  the  mil- 
dew, or  the  various  blights  that  so  much  affect  the  peach  and  other 
wall  trees.  It  is  a  free  bearer,  and  attains  a  great  age,  continuing 
to  bear  even  after  the  trunk  has  become  hollow  from  age.  The 
young  fruit,  when  about  the  size  of  large  gooseberries,  are  much 
esteemed  for  pies  or  tarts;  and  as  the  tree  very  commonly  pro- 
duces more  than  it  can  nourish  to  perfection,  they  shtuld  be  always 
thinned  out,  and  those  which  remain  will  be^the  finer,  and  the  tree 
will  produce  the  better  the  next  year. 

Budding  is  more  commonly  and  advantagejDusly  employed  for 
the  apricot,  and  indeed  for  all  stone-fruits,  than  graftingf,  as  they 
succeed  best  by  this  process ;  the  method  of  performing  this  will 
be  detailed  hereaiter. 

The  winter  is  tlie  proper  season  for  pruning  these  trees,  as  well 


g(J  THE   FRUIT-GARDEN. 

as  the  peach  and  nectarine.  The  rules  which  w-e  shall  now 
lay  down  for  the  pruning  of  the  apricot  vill  be  found  equally 
applicable  for  the  peach  and  nectarine,  as  they  all  produce  their 
fruit  principally  upon  the  younfj  shoots  of  the  preceding  summer, 
the  fruit  blossoms  rising  directly  from  the  eyes  of  the  shoots,  a 
good  supply  of  which  must  be  reserved  annually  to  train  in  for 
bearing;  the  apricot,  particularly,  bears  often  on  the  small  natural 
spurs  rising  on  the  two  or  three  years'  wood,  and  consequently  all 
Buch  spurs  should  be  carefully  preserved,  for  these  generally  hear 
good  fruit;  but  the  young  yearling  shoots  are  to  be  considered  as 
the  most  profitable  bearers.  The  general  branches  and  bearing 
shoots  are  to  be  trained  to  the  wall  horizontally,  at  from  three  to 
five  inches  distance,  and  you  must  prune  out  annually  all  super- 
abundant shoots  that  cannot  be  trained  in  with  regularity,  and  also 
a  considerable  part  of  the  old  or  two  last  years'  bearers.  A  supply 
of  the  best  of  the  last  years'  shoots  must  be  left  in  a  regular  man- 
ner in  every  part  of  the  tree,  shortening  these  shoots  more  or  less 
according  to  their  strength. 

Before  you  begin  to  prune,  unnail  all  the  young  shoots  and  most 
of  their  mother  branches,  by  which  means  you  will  have  room  to 
use  your  knife  properly.  Preserve  every  young  shoot,  whether 
promising  fruit  or  not,  which  is  produced  nearest  the  root  of  the 
tree,  or  the  trees  will  become  naked  at  bottom,  than  which  nothing 
can  be  more  unsightly.  In  pruning,  select  the  most  promising  and 
best  situated  shoots,  cutting  out,  to  make  room  for  them,  all  useless 
ones  and  old  naked  branches,  not  well  furnished  w-iih  bearing 
"wood.  Cut  off  the  shoots  you  reject  close  to  the  stem,  leaving  the 
one  or  two  you  may  select  to  form  a  regular  continuation  of  the 
branch  of  which  they  form  a  part.  IJetain  shoots  of  moderately 
strong  growth,  which  appear  most  fruitful  and  likely  to  furnish  a 
good  supply  of  blossom-buds,  rejecting  weakly,  slender  shoots, 
and  such  as  are  very  long  jointed,  as  well  as  those  of  a  thick 
spongy  growth,  and  shoots  remarkably  rank  and  luxuriant, — cut 
them  all  clean  out.  Take  out  also  some  part  of  the  bearers  of  the 
last  two  or  three  preceding  years,  prune  them  down  to  some  eligi- 
ble lateral  shoot,  or  to  their  origin,  as  it  may  seem  expedient. 

The  end  or  general  intention  of  pruning  and  training  is  to  bring 
the  tree  to  a  good  and  regular  form ;  to  provide  a  succession  of 
shoots;  to  disencumber  it  of  useless  and  hurtful  branches;  to  in- 
vigorate that  which  is  weak,  and  to  check  that  which  is  too  luxu- 
riant ;  to  prese^e  proper  limits  ;  and  to  produce  a  good  supply  of 
fruit. 

There  are  many  different  modes  of  training  trees  on  walls,  trel- 
lises, and  espalier  rails,  and  that  mode  must  be  adopted  which  is 
most  suitable  for  the  situation,  &c.  The  fan  method  of  training 
is  the  most  recommended  for  the  apricot,  peach,  and  nectarine,  ana 
also  for  plums  and  cherries  which  bear  on  the  last  year's  wood, 


"  'I. 
THE   PRUIT-GARDEN.  87 

and  when  neatly  and  regularly  executed,  no  mode  of  training  looks 
better  to  the  eye.  The  only  objection  to  tliis  method  is,  that  the 
branches  all  proceeding  from  the  root  in  right  lines,  create  so 
rapid  a  flow  of  the  sap  upwards,  that  the  lower  and  horizontal 
branches  have  not  their  due  share,  and  consequently  often  die.  An 
improved  method  of  fan-training  is  sometimes  adopted,  in  which  it 
is  attempted  to  divert  the  too  rapid  current  of  the  sap,  by  turning 
the  principal  branches  into  crooked  channels,  and  thus  to  check  its 
too  hasty  ascent  into  the  upper  branches,  while  the  lower  are  left 
to  starve. 

In  March,  when  the  buds  of  the  apricot,  peach,  and  nectft-ine 
are  swelled  for  bloom,  they  are  liable  to  be  rubbed  off  with  the 
least  touch,  and  great  care  should  be  taken  if  they  are  then  pruned. 
When  the  trees  are  in  blossom,  some  of  the  choice  kinds  should  he 
defended  from  frost  by  being  covered  with  mats  of  a  large  size ;  one 
end  of  each  mat  should  be  tastened,  with  hooks  or  nails,  to  tiie  top 
of  tlie  wall,  and  the  mat  hanging  down  over  the  trees  should  also 
be  made  fast  at  the  bottom,  to  prevent  its  being  blown  backwards 
and  forwards  by  the  wind,  so  as  to  beat  the  blossoms  off.  These 
mats  should  be  removed  whenever  the  weather  becomes  mild,  as  it 
is  only  in  sharp  frost  and  cutting  winds  that  the  trees  require  to  be 
thus  sheltered.  An  excellent  method  to  protect  apricots  is,  just 
before  the  flower-buds  expand,  to  stick  the  trees  with  dried  branches 
of  fern  leaves,  putting  a  net  over  to  prevent  the  wind  blowing  them 
off.  The  fern  should  be  stuck  between  the  branches  in  a  spreading 
manner,  so  as  to  afford  shelter  and  protection  to  the  blossoms. 
This  covering  should  remain  on  till  the  fruit  is  the  size  of  a 
pea;  this  method  does  not  answer  so  well  with  the  peach  or  nec- 
tarine as  with  the  apricot,  as  they  are  more  apt  to  be  attacked  by 
insects,  and  the  breed  of  these  is  promoted  by  the  long  continua- 
tion of  the  covering. 

Copings  of  stone,  or  other  materials,  to  the  fruit  wall  are  found 
to  be  the  best  protection  against  frost,  and  a  little  additional  pro- 
tection in  very  severe  weather  will  save  much  fruit.  In  May, 
when  the  fruit  is  set,  it  will,  as  before  hinted,  be  found  requisite  to 
thin  out  the  superabundant  fruit,  as  the  apricot  in  favourable  sea- 
sons frequently  sets  a  superabundant  crop  of  fruit,  often  in  thick 
clusters,  that  would  neither  have  room  to  grow,  nor  receive  sufii- 
cient  nourishment  to  attain  to  any  thing  like  perfection ;  these 
must  therefore  be  reduced  to  a  moderately  full  crop  on  each  tree. 
This  thinning  should  be  carefully  performed,  looking  over  the 
branches  regularly,  and  singling  out  the  fruit  on  each  branch  that 
is  most  proper  to  leave  from  their  promising  appearance,  size  and 
shape,  and  their  most  favourable  situation  on  the  branches;  three 
or  four  apricots  may  be  left  on  the  strongest  shoots,  two  or  three 
on  the  middling,  but  not  more  than  one  or  two  on  the  weaker 
shoots.    The  fruit  should  never  stand  nearer  than  within  three, 


88  THE   FRVIT-GARDEN. 

four,  or  five  inches  of  each  other,  according  to  their  size  and  the 
strength  of  the  shoot. 

The  following  sorts  of  Apricots  are  those  most  celehrated  :— 

Roman,  Latimer's  Peach, 

Large  Early,  Tranoparent, 

Breda,  Large  Turkey, 

Brussels,  Black-fruited, 

Moor  Park,  Gold  Blotched. 

The  Barbary. — This  is  a  shnib  but  little  cultivated,  though  the 
fruit  is  in  some  sections  much  esteemed  for  preserving,  on  account 
of  nk  agreeable  acidity.  'J'he  Shakers  at  Lebanon,  N.  Y.,  have 
paid  some  attention  to  it,  and  send  the  fruit  to  the  city  of  New 
York  for  sale.  It  is  raised  from  the  seed  or  from  suckers  of  the 
parent  plant;  requires  but  little  cultivation,  and  should  be  planted 
in  the  outer  part  of  the  garden,  under  the  shelter  of  taller  trees,  or 
the  shade  of  a  hedge,  as  the  rays  of  a  hot  sun  prevent  the  fruit 
attaining  a  large  size. 

Cherries. — The  cherry-tree  is  propagated  by  being  either  grafted 
or  budded  on  a  stock  raised  from  the  cherry-stone  ;  the  stones  for 
this  purpose  should  be  sown  either  in  September  or  October ;  a 
dryish  light  mellow  soil  should  be  selected  for  this  purpose,  which 
should  be  dug  and  prepared  by  being  formed  into  a  bed  four  or  five 
feet  wide;  an  inch  or  two  of  earth  must  be  taken  evenly  off  the 
top,  and  then  the  stones  are  to  be  sow'n  regularly  and  moderately 
thick;  press  them  into  the  ground  with  the  back  of  the  spade,  and 
then  cover  them  an  inch  and  a  half  deep  with  fine  soil,  laying  it 
on  in  a  regular  manner.  When  these  stocks  have  been  planted 
out,  and  have  attained  the  proper  size  for  budding  or  grafting,  they 
are  to  be  removed  to  where  they  are  finally  to  stand,  placing  them 
at  least  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  apart. 

If  the  cherry  is  required  for  a  wall  or  espalier,  the  stock  should 
be  raised  from  the  stone  of  a  morello  or  the  may-duke  cherry.  The 
winter  months  is  the  proper  season  for  pruning  the  cherry,  either 
trained  against  a  wall,  or  in  espalier  or  standard  form.  What  are 
called  heart  cherries,  have  been  considered  as  bad  bearers  when 
trained  against  a  wall,  but  pruning  them  as  may-duke  cherries,  that 
is,  leaving  a  great  many  fore-right  shoots  in  summer,  tucking  them 
in  with  some  small  rods  run  across  under  the  adjoining  branches, 
to  keep  them  close  to  the  wall,  and  prevent  their  being  broken  off 
by  the  winds,  or  from  looking  unsightly,  at  the  same  time  pinching 
off  their  extremities  to  swell  the  buds  below.  Never  make  use  of 
the  knife,  if  possible,  in  summer,  as  the  shoots  die  from  the  place 
where  they  are  cut,  leaving  unsightly  dead  ends,  which  will  infal- 
libly bring  on  the  canker.  These  shoots  may  be  cut  in  the  spring 
to  about  a  couple  of  eyes.  W'hen  the  trunks  become  hollow,  cut 
out  all  the  loose  dead  parts,  and  examine  the  roots,  cutting  off  what 
is  rotten,  injured,  or  decayed. 

0 


THE   rRClT-GARDEN.  89 

In  cherry  trees  the  removal  of  the  rough  or  decayed  epidermis 
in  rings  has  been  found  particularly  useful,  both  for  the  fruitfulness 
of  the  tree  and  removal  of  insects. 

If  the  pruning  of  the  cherry  was  neglected  in  the  winter,  it  may 
be  performed  any  time  in  autumn.  In  these  trees  the  same  bearers 
continue  fruitful  many  years,  principally  upon  short  natural  spurs 
on  old  branches,  which  must  be  retained  accordingly,  and  let  only 
any  casual  worn-out  or  unfruitful  wood,  that  supports  little  or  no 
bearing-fruit  spurs,  be  occasionally  cut  out.  In  both  young  and 
old  full-grown  trees,  wiiere  a  supply  of  new  wood  is  wanting  in 
any  part,  leave  some  of  the  strongest  of  the  last  year's  shoots,  and 
retain  well-placed  shoots  in  vacant  places,  between  older  branches, 
to  train  in  by  degrees  to  be  ready  for  a  supply  upon  occasion. 

Those  who  prefer  good  crops  of  fruit  to  the  beauty  of  the  tree, 
allow  almost  all  the  breast  wood  of  the  may-duke  cherry  to  remain 
from  year  to  year,  which  forms  an  ugly  but  a  very  fruitful  bush. 
And  in  pruning  morello  cherry  trees,  always  take  care  to  leave 
every  year  a  plentiful  supply  of  the  last  summer's  shoots  in  every 
part  of  the  tree,  at  the  distance  of  three  or  four  inches,  as  this  kind 
of  cherry  produces  its  fruit  abundantly  upon  the  last  summer's 
shoots,  as  well  as  upon  small  spurs  on  the  two  or  three  years' 
branches. 

Cherry  trees  are  well  adapted  for  espaliers  or  for  standards;  in 
the  former  case,  as  well  as  when  trained  to  a  wall,  they  are  readily 
covered  over  with  a  net,  as  a  protection  against  the  depredations 
of  birds.  The  may-duke  is  the  finest  of  all  the  early  cherries,  and 
is  that  which  is  alone  used  in  European  hot-house  forcing.  When 
suffered  to  hang  till  it  is  quite  ripe,  it  becomes  nearly  black. 
Bis^arreaus  are  very  large  and  fine,  and  they  succeed  against  a 
wall,  or  planted  as  espaliers,  but  they  answer  also  well  for  stand- 
ards, being  very  hardy. 

The  cherry  is  a  robust  tree,  and  in  the  United  States  is  seldom 
trained  against  walls  or  as  espaliers.  The  old  morello  is  subject 
to  canker,  and  on  that  account  is  but  seldom  planted  ;  other  varie- 
ties, especially  the  may-duke,  are  liable  to  be  sun-slruck,  as  it  is 
termed ;  the  body  of  the  tree  nearest  the  sun  becoming  suddenly 
diseased,  the  circulation  impeded,  and  frequently  death  ensues; 
as  a  preventive,  it  is  usual  to  nail  a  board  against  the  body,  to 
screen  it  from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun. 

The  following  varieties  of  cherries  are  esteemed  as  among  th© 
better  kinds : — 

Early  May-Duke,  Large  White  Bigarreau, 

Late  May-Duke,  Downton  Early, 

Bleeding  Heart,  Downton  Late, 

Large  Black  Heart,  Black  Mazzard, 

Ox  Heart,  Black  Eagle, 

Amber  Heart,  Black  Tartarian, 
8* 


60;  THE    FRUIT-GARDEN. 

White  Heart,  Bell  de  Choisy, 

English  Morello,  Montmorency, 

French  Morello,  Downer's  Late  Red, 

Plumstone  Morello,  Carnation, 

Early  Richmond,  Knight's  Early  Black, 

Kentish  Pie,  Yellow  Spanish, 

Napoleon  Bigarreau,  Halifax. 

The  Chesnut  is  more  a  tree  of  the  forest  and  lawn  than  of  the 
fruit-o-arden,  and  when  planted  may  be  left  to  the  care  of  Dame 
Nature. 

The  Spanish  Chesnut  is  a  handsome  round-headed  tree,  of  medium 
size,  and  produces  fruit  comparatively  young.  It  should  be  more 
generally  planted. 

Currants. — These  are  the  favourite  fruits  of  our  cottage  gardens, 
and  are  distinguished  as  white,  red  and  black.  We  shall  speak 
of  them  collectively,  and  afterwards  point  out  any  difference  of 
treatment  that  way  be  required  for  the  black.  The  currant  is 
readily  propagated  by  cuttings  taken  from  the  last  year's  wood  in 
the  months  of  February  and  March  ;  you  should  choose  a  strong 
and  sound  shoot,  and  cut  it  off  with  a  short  piece  of  the  preceding 
year's  wood  at  the  bottom  of  it.  The  cutting  should  have  six 
joints  or  buds  at  the  least,  and  three  of  these  are  to  be  inserted  in 
the  earth,  which  must  be  pressed  closely  round  it,  so  as  to  fix  the 
cutting  firmly  in  the  ground.  Take  these  cuttings  off  with  a  sharp 
knife,  so  as  to  leave  no  jagged  or  ragged  edges  or  bruises  about  the 
bark.  They  should  be  planted  in  a  shady  place.  They  will  re- 
quire a  little  water  when  first  put  in,  and  again  occasionally  when 
the  weather  is  dry,  until  they  have  made  shoots  of  about  two  or 
three  inches  long.  The  cutting  makes  a  root  in  the  first  summer, 
and  may  be  planted  out  in  the  autumn  of  the  following  year  in  the 
spot  where  it  is  designed  finally  to  stand. 

Currants  will  grow  either  in  a  warm  situation  or  in  the  shade. 
Perhaps  it  is  as  well  to  have  some  placed  in  each  of  these  situa- 
tions, as  those  in  the  warm  spot  will  of  course  come  to  maturity 
the  earliest,  but  those  grown  in  the  shade  will  be  the  largest  and 
of  the  finest  flavour,  being  free  from  that  disagreeable  sharpness 
often  found  in  currants  grown  in  a  warm  or  a  too  sunny  spot.  The 
currant  will  thrive  and  bear  fruit  well  under  the  shade  of  other  trees. 

When  the  cutting  is  placed  in  the  spot  it  is  designed  to  occupy, 
it  must  not  be  suffered  to  retain  any  shoots  or  form  any  limbs  within 
five  or  six  inches  of  the  ground,  and  the  same  observation  holds 
good  when  applied  to  gooseberries. 

There  should  not  be  suffered  to  remain  more  than  from  four  to 
six  shoots  to  become  principal  limbs.  These  shoots  should  be 
shortened  at  the  end  of  the  first  year,  and  thus  the  number  of  shoots 
will  be  doubled  ;  these  should  be  constantly  kept  clear  of  side 
shoots,  by  every  winter  cutting  off  the  last  summer's  wood  to 


THE   FRUIT-GARDEN.  9! 

within  one  or  two  buds  of  the  limb.  When  the  limbs  have  at- 
tained the  length  you  design  tliein  to  extend  to,  the  shoot  at  the 
end  of  each  limb  must  be  annually  cut  off. 

A  tree,  when  it  has  thus  received  its  pruning,  appears  like  a 
rugged  stick  with  bunches  of  spurs  sticking  out  of  it,  for  on  these 
spurs  come  the  fruit  in  immense  size  and  quantity. 

When  the  bush  has  formed  a  uniform  head,  the  greater  part  of 
the  young  shoots  must  he  annually  taken  off,  leaving  only  the 
leading  ones,  and  such  as  are  desired  to  make  new  branches,  and 
shortening  these  to  four  or  six  inches,  according  to  their  streno-th, 
always  cutting  them  off  just  above  a  bud  ;  for  if  this  is  not  attended 
to,  the  points  of  the  shoots  will  decay  down  to  the  bud,  and  have 
a  very  slovenly  appearance.  In  pruning  off  the  superfluous  lateral 
shoots,  they  should  not  be  cut  close  to  the  wood,  but  a  short  spur  of 
aboutaquarter  or  halfaninch  long  should  be  left  to  each;  and  here, 
as  before  observed,  is  produced  the  most  abundant  fruit.  All  old 
mossy  or  decayed  wood  must  be  carefully  cut  out,  and  all  the 
shoots  should  stand  open  to  the  light  and  air.  If  you  neglect  your 
pruning,  the  centre  of  the  tree  becomes  crowded  with  wood,  and 
the  fruit  will  be  both  small  in  size,  and  trifling  in  quantity.  A 
successful  method  of  pruning  the  currant  has  been  recently  adopted  ; 
a  single  standard  stem  is  alone  allowed  to  remain,  and  the  lateral 
shoots  are  cut  off  to  about  six  inches  long;  these  becoming  spurs 
produce  the  most  luxurious  bunches  ;  thirteen  bunches  were  gath- 
ered ofl'  a  stem  in  September,  1841,  which  weighed  a  full  pound. 
"What  has  been  said,  applies  equally  to  the  white  and  red  currant; 
the  black  currant  bush  is  to  be  pruned,  as  we  shall  describe,  when 
speaking  of  the  gooseberry. 

The  Fig  Tree. — The  fig  is  raised  either  from  cuttintrs  or  layers, 
and  the  tree  must  stand  against  a  warm  wall.  It  is  seldom  much 
pruned,  as  it  bleeds  a  great  deal,  and  therefore  it  is  mostly  an 
unsightly  tree;  it  requires  a  rich  soil — part  of  the  fruit  on  the  fig 
is  hardly  formed,  when  another  part  is  ripe.  Thus  a  succession 
of  fruit  is  produced,  till  the  frost  sets  in.  In  fine  warm  summers 
the  fruit  is  rich  and  good,  but  generally  it  has  a  mawkish  taste. 
Whatever  pruning  is  given  to  the  fig  should  be  done  in  March,  the 
whole  supply  of  young  shoots  being  left  till  this  time.  They  bear 
only  on  the  young  wood,  that  is,  the  one  year  old ;  and  therefore  a 
good  supply  must  be  left  of  the  last  summer's  shoots,  which  must 
never  be  shortened ;  prune  out  the  superfluous  shoots  and  long- 
extended  old  wood.  Take  care  always  to  retain  some  young 
shoots  near  the  bottom,  to  take  the  place  of  the  old  naked  branches 
that  will  occur.  The  young  branches  of  these  trees  ought  not  to 
be  shortened  or  topped,  but  be  left  at  full  length,  only  cutting  off 
dead  ends.  March  is  the  best  month  for  removing  as  well  as 
pruning  these  trees. 

The  Italians,  when  they  wish  to  forward  the  ripening  of  figs, 
drop  a  little  sweet  oil  from  a  quill  into  the  eye  of  the  fruil ;  but  in 


§2  THE    FRUIT-GARDEN. 

this  operation  care  must  be  taken  not  to  hurt  the  skin,  which  would 
make  the  fig  burst.  It  is  said  that  this  will  make  a  fortnight 
difference  in  the  ripening.  In  November  any  autumnal  fruit 
remaining  on  the  trees  should  be  pulled  off,  as  they  will  not  ripen, 
but  injure  the  next  year's  crop. 

Filberts  are  either  raised  from  suckers  or  layers.  They  may 
occupy  with  advantage  the  border  near  the  outer  edge  of  the  gar- 
den, to  form  a  low  screen,  as  they  should  not  he  allowed  to  attain 
any  great  height.  They  should  be  pruned  annually,  taking  out 
all  the  dead  wood.  The  fruit  should  be  suffered  to  hang  till  it  in 
ready  to  drop  out  of  the  husk,  and  until  the  bud  end  turns  white, 
or  it  will  not  keep  well,  as  the  kernels  shrivel  up  when  gathered. 

Gooseberry. — This  is  a  fruit  which,  like  the  currant,  with 
which  it  is  generally  associated,  will  grow  in  nearly  any  soil,  and 
is  found  in  almost  every  garden;  it  may  be  propagated  either  by 
cuttings  or  from  seed.  The  best  time  for  taking  cuttings  is  in 
November;  they  will,  however,  grow  if  planted  any  time  between 
that  month  and  March  or  April,  but  those  planted  in  November  or 
December  produce  the  best  plants,  and  are  least  liable  to  fail. 
Cuttings  must  not  be  taken  from  the  root-suckers  of  the  same 
year,  but  from  shoots  of  a  medium  size,  taken  off  about  a  foot  or 
more  in  length  ;  the  top  must  be  cut  off,  as  must  all  the  buds  but 
four.  Two  or  three  shallow  notches  are  to  be  made  in  the  bark  at 
the  root  end  ;  these  cause  root-fibres  to  sprout  out.  The  cuttings 
should  be  cut  straight  off,  and  all  the  buds  except  four  or  five,  be 
taken  off.  If  you  cannot  get  longer,  cuttings  of  five  or  six  inches 
long,  having  only  two  or  three  buds,  will  be  found  to  succeed. 
Cuttings  may  at  first  be  planted  out  on  a  piece  of  ground  prepared 
for  them,  at  only  a  few  inches  apart,  and  after  they  are  rooted  to  be 
moved  out  into  the  nursery-bed,  the  soil  of  which  should  be  rich; 
they  are  to  be  planted  out  in  rows  about  two  feet  apart,  and  the 
plants  one  foot  asunder.  In  the  second  year  they  may  be  removed 
into  the  place  they  are  finally  designed  to  occupy.  On  this 
removal  all  superfluous  shoots  should  be  taken  off,  leaving  only 
two  on  each  of  the  four  leading  ones,  and  heading  these  down  to 
six  inches;  there  will  thus  be  formed  eight  shoots  to  make  a  head, 
When  the  trees  are  well  formed,  and  have  the  required  number  of 
branches,  a  very  different  system  of  pruning  is  to  be  pursued. 
Shortening  the  principal  shoots  would  now  be  injudicious,  except 
with  such  as  are  growing  too  vigorously,  inclining  downwards,  or 
pointing  towards  the  centre  of  the  tree  ;  otherwise  the  leading  shoots 
should  never  be  stopped,  for  the  gooseberry  has  a  tendency  to  pro- 
duce too  many  young  and  useless  shoots,  and  heading  them  down, 
would  only  increase  tiiis  tendency.  In  cutiing  out  the  superfluous-, 
shoots,  they  should  be  taken  off  within  an  inch  of  the  stem.  To" 
keep  a  succession  of  young  trees,  which  is  desirable,  as  old  ones 
neither  bear  nor  look  so  well,  it  is  advisable  to  plant  a  few  cuttings 
every  year  to  replace  old  or  decayed  stocks. 


THE   PRUIT-GARDEN.  *  93 

The  gooseberry-tree  admits  of  training-  in  a  variety  of  fanciful 
ways;  it  may  be  trained  in  the  form  of  a  fan,  of  an  espalier  hedge, 
or  somewhat  of  the  form  of  a  funnel,  by  cutting  out  the  centre 
branches  to  admit  light ;  or  they  may  be  trained  as  standards. 
When  the  fruit  is  to  be  gathered  green,  the  bush  should  be  allowed 
to  grow  thick,  as  the  more  numerous  the  branches,  the  more  abun- 
dant the  fruit ;  but  when  the  fruit  is  designed  to  hang  till  it  ripens, 
the  centre  of  the  bush  must  always  be  left  open  to  admit  light  and 
air.  The  best  mode  of  training,  however,  is  to  permit  the  tree  to 
form  a  compact  bush,  and  by  this  method  the  greatest  quantity  of 
fruit  will  be  produced.  The  new  shoots  produced  by  old  trees 
will  be  very  short,  and  when  the  fruit-spurs  have  borne  for  two  or 
three  years,  it  will  be  advisable  to  cut  them  out.  A  few  very 
large  gooseberries  may  be  procured  from  each  tree,  by  gathering 
the  principal  part  of  the  fruit  in  an  early  stage  of  its  growth, 
leaving  only  a  few  on  each  branch ;  for  prize  gooseberries  all  but 
one  berry  on  a  branch  is  removed.  It  is  requisite  to  dig  about  the 
trees  in  autumn  or  early  spring,  and  give  occasionally^ some  well- 
rotted  manure.  There  is  a  particular  kind  of  caterpillar,  which  is 
a  sad  enemy  to  the  gooseberry-tree;  after  devouring  the  leaves 
during  the  summer,  it  goes  into  the  earth,  and  lives  during  the 
winter  in  a  pupa  state.  The  young  leaves  in  the  spring  should  be 
carefully  looked  over,  and  eggs  destroyed;  they  will  be  found 
along  the  under  ribs.  Liquid  manure  from  the  stable  or  chamber, 
it  is  said,  will  destroy  the  grub,  but  if  it  does  not,  it  will  invigorate 
the  bush. 

The  finer  varieties  of  European  gooseberries  do  not  sutjceed  well 
in  the  climate  of  the  United  States,  except  in  local  situations.  In 
the  cities  of  the  middle  and  eastern  states  they  are  produced  in 
high  perfection,  but  in  the  country  immediately  around  they  are, 
like  the  grape,  subject  to  mildew,  and  no  system  of  management 
appears  to  screen  them  from  its  attack.  Perhaps  frequently 
syringing  the  foliage  and  fruit  with  a  solution  of  whale-oil  soap 
would  prove  beneficial. 

Medlars  are  propagated  by  grafting  on  pear  or  crab-stocks. 
They  are  not  held  in  much  estimation,  but  sometimes  occupy  a 
place  in  the  shrubbery ;  they  are  commonly  raised  as  standards, 
but  occasionally  they  are  trained  as  espaliers,  in  which  case  the 
fruit  is  larger.  The  medlar  may  be  treated  as  the  apple  or  the 
pear;  there  are  two  varieties  in  common  cultivation,  the  English 
and  the  German. 

The  Mulberry. — This  tree  is  raised  from  seed-cuttings  or  lay- 
ers, and  then  planted  out  like  an  apple  or  pear-tree :  it  should 
stand  in  the  lawn,  or  at  least  have  a  grass-plat  under  it,  as  the 
fruit  is  never  so  good  as  when  it  hangs  on  the  tree  till  it  is  suffi- 
ciently ripe  to  fall,  and  to  fall  on  mould  would  spoil  the  fruit.  The 
tree  grows  to  a  great  size.  There  is  a  white  mulberry,  common 
in  France,  on  which  the  silk-worm  principally  feeds ;  the  red  or 


94  THE   FRUIT-GARDEN. 

purple  is  that  which  is  best  known  in  this  country.   The  soil  most 
congenial  to  the  mulberry  is  a  rich,  light  and  deep  earth. 

The  Nectarine  is  a  fruit  that  is  closely  allied  to  liie  peach ; 
differing  from  it  principally  in  having  a  smooth  skin  and  being 
more  difficult  to  bring  to  maturity.  The  methods  of  pruning,  train- 
ino",  &c.  have  already  been  detailed  under  the  article  ^pricot^  and 
anything  further  to  be  said  will  be  found  under  the  head  Peach, 

These  trees  are  very  liable  to  be  affected  with  the  blight;  to  pre- 
serve them  from  which,  when  the  trees  come  into  flower,  they 
should  be  washed  with  clear  lime  and  sulphur-water  mixed  with 
tobacco-water.  It  may  be  prepared  by  procuring  three  butts,  of  a 
size  answering  to  the  number  of  trees  to  be  dressed ;  in  one  of 
them  put  about  half  a  bushel  of  unslacked  lime,  and  about  two 
pounds  of  flour  of  sulphur,  and  fill  up  the  vessel  with  clear  water, 
and  stir  it  up.  In  the  other  put  about  four  ounces  of  tobacco,  and 
fill  that  also  with  clear  water.  When  these  two  butts  have  stood 
two  or  three  days,  and  the  water  in  them  has  got  clear,  the  third 
vessel  may  be  filled  out  of  the  other  two,  using  two  gallons  of  the 
lime  and  sulphur-water  for  one  of  the  tobacco-water.  This  mix- 
ture may  also  be  applied  to  peach-trees,  and  the  best  mode  is  with 
the  syringe.  When  the  third  vessel  is  filled  in  the  proportion 
just  stated,  the  other  two  should  be  filled  up  again  with  clear 
water  and  well  stirred  about,  and  when  clear,  may  be  mixed 
again  as  above ;  but  after  three  or  four  times,  some  more  of  the 
ingredients  must  be  added,  or  it  will  get  so  weak  as  to  be  of  no 
effect.  A  solution  of  whale  oil  soap  has  been  used  with  good  results  ; 
when  it  cannot  be  obtained,  syringe  with  a  solution  of  common 
soft  soap  :  much  benefit  will  be  found  to  ensue;  the  foliage  will  be 
cleared  of  insects,  mildew,  &c.  It  is  said  to  restore  trees  when 
attacked  by  the  disease  popularly  termed  the  yelloivs. 

The  varieties  of  nectarine  in  common  cultivation  do  not  exceed 
a  dozen ;  those  most  generally  known,  and  it  is  probable  therefore 
the  better  kinds,  are,  Red  Koman,  White  Roman,  Large  Early, 
Elruge,  Temple,  Vermarsh,  Golden,  and  Fairchild's  Early.  They 
are  frequently  grown  to  great  perfection  in  favourable  situations  in 
city  gardens,  especially  when  trained  against  walls,  but  seldom 
succeed  in  the  country ;  partly  owing  to  their  earl)'  flowering — the 
blossoms  being  injured  by  frost  and  high  winds,  but  principally 
from  the  attack  of  the  curculio^  which  from  some  cause  abounds 
to  a  much  greater  degree  in  the  country  than  in  town. 

Peaches. — The  peach  is,  next  to  the  apple,  the  fruit  of  America ; 
it  succeeds  in  nearly  all  sections  of  our  widely  extended  country, 
and  in  seasons  which  are  termed  fruitful,  or  when  the  blossoms  and 
embryo  fruit  escape  the  frost,  it  is  in  such  profusion  as  to  be  hap- 
pily within  reach  of  all.  The  disease  termed  the  yellows,  to  which 
the  peach  is  subject,  it  is  difficult  to  account  for,  and  still  more 
difficult  to  cure;  various  remedies  have  been  suggested,  among 
others  to  syringe  the  foliage  with  a  solution  of  whale  oil  soap,  but 


THE    FRUIT-GARDEN.  95 

it  is  probable  the  only  truly  effectual  one,  is  the  summary  process 
ot  removal.  'I'he  disease  appears  to  be  infectious,  and  it  is  there- 
fore the  safer  course  to  exterminate  every  tree  thus  eftected.  An- 
other enemy  to  the  peach  is  the  grub,  which  works  its  way  between 
the  bark  and  the  wood  near  the  root,  and  into  the  root.  If  permit- 
ted to  remain  undisturbed,  it  lacerates  the  tree,  and  interrupts  a 
healtliy  action;  to  eradicate  it,  open  the  ground  down  to  the  crown 
of  the  roots,  and  as  much  lower  as  you  can  go  without  injurino" 
them,  and  wherever  gum  has  exuded,  gently  probe  the  worm  path 
with  a  pliant  wire,  when  in  most  cases  you  may  puncture  and 
kill  it.  The  peach  thrives  in  nearly  all  soils,  but  the  fruit  is  of 
liner  flavour  on  light  land  ;  on  very  heavy  land,  and  where  line 
fruit  cannot  readily  be  procured,  it  would  be  well  worth  while  to 
form  a  compost  of  light  soil  for  a  few  trees. 

Tlie  following  directions  for  training  peach-trees  against  walls, 
&c.  may  be  useful  to  some  of  our  readers : 

Peaches  are  so  similar  in  their  nature  and  management  to  the 
apricot  and  nectarine,  that  the  directions  already  given  under 
^pricut  must  be  referred  to,  but  what  follows  will  be^found  more 
particularly  applicable  to  the  peach. 

When  the  buds  of  young  peach-trees,  of  one  year's  growth, 
begin  to  shoot,  you  may  head  them  to  five  or  more  eyes,  according 
to  their  strength  ;  then  rub  on  a  little  cow-dung  and  urine,  observ"^ 
ing  to  make  the  cut  sloping,  and  as  near  the  Top  buds  as  may  be, 
and  also  rub  off  the  fore-right  shoots.  When  the  young  shoots 
have  strength,  nail  them  to  the  wall  to  prevent  their  being  broken 
off  by  the  wind.  U  the  leading  shoot  be  very  strong,  pinch  olf  the 
top,  about  the  beginning  of  June,  which  will  make  it  throw  out 
some  fine  strong  shoots.  None  of  the  shoots  should  be  suffered 
to  grow  unequally  long  during  the  first  and  second  years,  which 
may  always  be  prevented  by  pinching  the  ends  of  them  ;  but  they 
should  never  be  topped  when  the  tree  sends  out  fine  proper  shoots 
till  the  spring  following,  when  you  may  prune  them  accordino-  to 
the  strength  of  the  tree,  and  the  quantity  of  wood  it  has  made 
during  the  preceding  summer,  leaving  the  shoots  from  six  to  twelve 
inches  long,  by  which  means  you  will  be  able  to  fill  the  lower  part 
of  the  wall.  It  is  too  common  a  practice  to  lay  in  the  shoots  at 
full  length,  taking  off  only  the  points  of  the  branches;  this  gene- 
rally, after  a  few  years,  leaves  the  walls  quite  naked,  whereas,  if 
attention  is  paid  to  the  training,  particularly  for  the  first  four  years, 
you  may  always  fill  the  walls  with  fine  bearing  wood  from  top  to 
bottom,  and  the  tree  will  produce  much  more  fruit,  and  of  finer 
quality  than  when  it  is  run  up  after  the  old  method,  for  trees  treated 
in  that  manner  are  generally  so  weak  that  they  have  not  strength 
to  bear  good  fruit.  The  third  year,  if  care  be  taken  in  summer' to 
manage  them  properly,  they  may  be  brought  into  a  bearing  state. 
When  the  ground  is  strong,  they  will  grow  very  vigorously,  and 
in  tliat  case,  all  the  young  shoots  must  be  pinched  off  about  the 


96'  THE    FRUIT-GARDEN. 

middle  of  June;  this  will  make  them  throw  out  side  shoots,  which 
if  not  laid  in  too  thick,  will  make  good  hearing  wood  for  the  next 
year.  Weak  shoots  should  never  be  nailed,  even  though  they  be 
full  of  blossoms,  as  they  never  bear  good  fruit.  Weakly  trees  are 
sometimes  covered  with  blossoms,  but  if  much  fruit  be  suffered  to 
remain  on  them,  they  will  be  weakened  so  much  that  they  may 
never  recover;  when,  therefore,  such  trees  are  too  much  loaded, 
pick  olT  the  greater  part  of  the  fruit  to  allow  the  tree  to  gain 
strength.  When  you  prune  such  weakly  trees,  never  prune  at  a 
single  liower-bud  ;  if  you  do,  it  will  be  sure  to  kill  the  shoot,  or  at 
least  it  will  die  as  far  as  the  next  wood-bud. 

The  following  varieties  of  peaches  will  afford  a  succession  of 
fruit  of  the  best  description.  The  Philadelphia  m.arket  has  long 
been  celebrated  for  the  ])rofusion  and  exquisite  quality  of  the 
peaches,  and  the  kinds  enumerated  are  among  the  most  esteemed  : 

Large  Early  Rare  Ripe,  Teton  de  Venus, 

Early  Newington,  Rodman's  Cling, 

New  York  Rare  Ripe,  Tippecanoe, 

Red  Cheek  Malacoton,  Ward's  Late  Free, 

Yellow  Nutmeg,  Lemon  Cling, 

Morris'  White,  Strawberry, 

Troth's  Early  Red,  Kennedy's  Carolina, 

Oldmixon  Cling,  Late  Heath. 
Washington  Rare  Ripe, 

The  Peau  is  very  similar  to  the  apple  in  its  nature  and  habits; 
it  is  a  delicious  fruit,  by  no  means  sufficiently  cultivated  in  this 
country,  and  it  is  only  in  the  older  settled  sections  of  the  Union  that 
a  tine  pear  can  be  usually  procured.  It  is  true  that  some  of  the  ordi- 
nary varieties  may  be  found  wherever  the  apple  is  grown,  but  those 
improved  sorts,  the  result  of  accident  or  judicious  crossing,  are 
still  ur. known.  The  day  is  however  coming,  when  our  tables  will 
be  supplied  with  an  uninterrupted  succession  of  pears,  as  they  are 
at  present  with  apples,  commencing  in  July,  and  continuing  until 
April  or  May.  The  blight,  that  fatal  enemy  to  the  pear,  unfortu- 
nately still  holds  sway,  but  we  may  indulge  the  hope,  that  the 
investigations  into  vegetable  physiology,  may  one  day  disclose  the 
mystery  of  its  action,  and  point  out  a  remedy.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  that  disease,  if  it  may  be  so  termed,  the  pear  is  healthy  ; 
occasionally  the  fruit  of  certain  kinds,  in  local  situations,  crack,  but 
the  tree  itself  is  of  hardy  habit;  and  the  melting  delicacy  of  a 
high-bred  pear  should  incite  to  enlarged  culture.  The  standard 
form  is  that  most  usual  with  us,  and  where  the  head  is  kept  open 
so  as  to  freely  admit  the  sun  and  air,  the  fruit  is  found  as  perfect 
and  well-flavoured  as  on  espaliers  ;  the  latter,  however,  is  the 
favourite  mode  in  Europe,  and  maybe  pursued  here  with  advantage 
under  certain  circumstances;  the  method  of  treatment  is  herein 
fully  pointed  out.  A  new  and  beautiful  method  of  training  pears  has 


TriE    FRUIT-GARDEN.  97 

been  adopted.  The  main  stem  is  allowed  to  rise  in  the  centre, 
and  branches  opposite  to  each  other  are  suft'ered  to  grow  on  each, 
side,  bending  over  arch-wise.  Thus  there  are  two  sets  of  over- 
hanging branches,  somewhat  espalier  fashion;  these  branches 
being  perfectl;y  exposed  to  the  air  on  each  side,  are  very  fruitful, 
and  the  tree  takes  little  room,  and,  like  the  espalier,  is  adapted  for 
the  sides  of  paths,  &c.  Large  kinds  of  pears  are  sometimes 
trained  against  a  wall,  and  the  branches  turned  over  to  the  other 
side ;  in  this  case  expect  no  fruit  on  the  root  side,  but  abundance 
of  fine  fruit  will  be  produced  on  the  other. 

Many  kind  of  pears  are  natives  of  France,  &c.  and  being  tender, 
deserve  the  protection  of  a  wall,  against  which  they  succeed  much 
better  than  the  apple.  The  proper  stocks  for  pears,  are  pears  raised 
from  the  pip — quinces  raised  from  cuttings  or  layers — or  white- 
thorn raised  from  the  stones.  When  designed  for  walls  or  espa- 
lier trees,  quince  stocks  are  the  best,  because  they  do  not  force  up 
such  large  and  lofly  wood  as  the  pear  stocks.  The  white-thorn  is 
a  very  durable  stock,  and  is  best  when  dwarfs  are  desired,  but  it  is 
apt  to  send  out  suckers,  and  is  not  so  Iruitfui  in  the  early  stages  as 
the  quince  stock. 

Pear-trees  which  are  grafted  in  the  spring  do  not  always  suc- 
ceed. In  May,  if  you  perceive  they  have  not  taken,  cut  them  off 
a  little  below  the  graft  at  a  joint  or  bud.  The  stock  will  then 
throw  out  a  great  number  of  healthy  shoots;  rub  these  all  off 
except  so  many  as  will  be  sufficient  to  fill  the  wall,  nailing  them 
up  to  prevent  the  wind  from  breaking  them.  About  the  latter  end 
of  July  the  shoots  will  be  fit  to  bud,  which  should  be  done  about 
that  time;  for  direction  for  this,  see  the  article  Budding. 

The  pear  against  wails,  or  in  espalier,  should  receive  its  prun- 
ing at  the  latest  in  February.  In  March  any  young  dwarf  pears 
which  have  been  recently  planted  against  walls  or  espaliers,  should 
be  pruned  down  to  a  few  eyes.  If  the  heads  of  these  trees  are  but 
one  3'ear's  growth  from  the  bud  or  graft,  let  them  be  shortened  to 
four  or  five  eyes,  observing  to  do  it  just  as  they  begin  to  form  buds 
for  shooting.  If  they  are  two  years  from  the  bud  or  graft,  and  the 
first  shoots  were  cut  down  last  spring,  let  the  shoots  which  were 
produced  from  them  last  summer  be  also  shortened  to  six,  eight,  or 
ten  inches.  It  is  on  shortening  properly  the  first  and  second  years' 
shoot,  from  the  budding  and  grafting,  that  the  whole  success  of 
these  trees,  as  well  as  the  apricots  and  peaches,  depends.  But  in 
the  common  course  of  pruning,  their  shoots  and  branches  are  not 
to  be  shortened  ;  for  after  the  young  trees  are  furnished  with  a 
proper  supply  of  branches  below,  their  shoots  must  be  trained 
to  the  wall  at  full  length,  only  shortening  particular  shoots  where 
more  wood  may  be  required.  In  these  trees  there  is  not  a  neces- 
sity to  leave  such  a  general  supply  of  young  wood  as  in  peaches, 
&c.,  which  bear  only  on  one-year  old  wood  ;  the  branches  of  the 
pear  are  at  least  three  years  old,  but  are  sometimes  four  or  five 
9 


98  THE    FRUIT-GARDEN. 

before  lliey  begin  to  bear,  and  when  they  have  arrived  at  a  fruitful 
state,  the  same  spur  branches  continue  to  bear  more  and  more  for 
many  years.  The  management  of  the  espalier  has  been  amply 
detailed  under  the  article  Apple  ;  but  it  may  be  proper  to  observe 
that  the  distances  that  are  to  be  allowed  for  general  planting,  must 
be  rather  greater  in  the  pear  than  the  apple,  from  fifteen  to  eighteen 
feet  being  deemed  sufficient  distance  for  these,  though  the  pear, 
particularly  when  grafted  on  a  free-growing  stock,  will  require 
twenty  feet  at  least,  whether  planted  in  espalier,  &c.,  or  against 
a  wall. 

When  the  fruit  has  attained  its  maturity,  the  remaining  care  is 
to  gather  it  in  a  way  that  it  may  be  preserved  for  the  longest  pos- 
sible period.  To  effect  this,  let  the  fruit  be  gathered  on  a  perfectly 
dry  day.  Be  sure  to  let  ihe  fruit  be  quite  dry  before  you  begin  to 
pull  it.  Pears  which  are  designed  for  keeping  should  hang  their 
full  time,  particularly  the  autumnal  sorts,  that  is,  till  at  their  full 
growth,  but  not  dead  ripe.  Those  intended  for  long  keeping  should 
be  gathered  in  a  little  before  they  are  ripe.  W  inter  pears  and 
apples  should  in  general  be  gathered  in  October;  to  know  when 
they  have  attained  their  full  growth,  try  several  of  them  in  different 
parts  of  the  tree  by  turning  them  gently  upward ;  if  they  quit  the 
tree  easily,  they  are  ripe,  and  it  is  time  to  gather  them.  But  none 
of  the  more  delicate  eating  pears  should  be  suffered  to  hang  longer 
than  the  middle  of  October :  for  if  they  are  once  touched  by  the 
frost,  it  will  occasion  them  to  rot  before  they  are  fit  for  the  table. 
They  should  be  carefully  gathered  one  by  one,  laying  them  gently 
in  a  basket  that  they  do  not  bruise  one  another.  Let  the  choice 
fruit  be  wiped  carefully,  and  laid  up  on  shelves,  &c. 

The  following  varieties  of  pears  described  by  Coxe,  embrace 
such  as  ripen  in  succession,  and  are  of  unquestionable  good  quali- 
ty. Very  many  new  kinds  have  been  introduced  within  a  few 
years,  but  they  have  not  in  numerous  instances  equalled  their 
European  character;  some  of  them  have  proved  particularly  liable 
to  the  fire  blight,  and  of  others  the  fruit  cracks.  Our  climate  is 
certainly  not^he  most  favourable  to  the  pear,  but  a  careful  observ- 
ance of  those  kinds  which  succeed  best,  and  the  increase  of  varie- 
ties from  seed,  the  young  trees  being  thus  acclimated,  will,  it  is 
hoped,  in  time  overcome  the  impediments  which  exist. — 

Early  Catharine. — This  is  more  generally  admired  than  any 
summer  pear — it  is  remarkably  fine,  rich,  waxy  and  luscious:  its 
form  is  somewhat  like  a  calabash,  with  a  long  curved  neck,  and  a 
long  fleshy  stem ;  the  skin  is  on  one  side  yellow,  the  other  a  rich 
russet,  or  brownish  red  ;  the  tree  grows  to  a  large  size  before  it 
bears;  it  is  then  very  fruitful.  The  limbs  are  long,  and  when  full 
of  fruit,  hang  like  a  willow;  this  pear  should  be  always  suffered 
to  hang  on  the  tree  till  ripe;  the  growth  of  the  tree  is  very  vigor- 
ous ;  the  size  large ;  the  time  of  the  fruit  ripening  is  about  the 
iniddle  of  July. 


THE   PRUIT-GARDEN*  99 

Madeline. — ^This  is  a  very  fine  early  fruit — the  size  is  small,  not 
much  larger  than  the  Hativeau,  the  skin  green,  the  flesh  juicy; 
butter3^  and  highly  flavoured — the  taste,  when  not  too  ripe,  sugary. 
This  pear  Mr.  Prince  calls  the  early  Chaumontel;  it  is  one  of  the 
finest  fruits  of  the  season. 

Early  Summer  Bergamnt. — This  is  one  of  the  finest  pears  of 
the  season,  when  eaten  before  it  is  too  ripe.  The  skin  is  green, 
full  of  small  russet  spots,  but  when  fully  ripe  it  becomes  yellow; 
it  is  a  highly  flavoured  juicy  fruit  if  gathered  from  the  tree,  but 
when  too  ripe  it  becomes  dry,  and  loses  its  flavour;  the  size  is 
small,  of  a  round  form,  the  tlesh  is  rich  and  sprightly — it  is  the 
least  vigorous  pear  tree  in  our  country — of  moderate  size  and  great 
hardiness  ;  free  from  blight — the  fruit  in  perfection  from  the  mid- 
dle to  the  end  of  July. 

Fin^  or  D^Ete, — This  is  a  very  fine  and  beautiful  pear — the  size 
is  small,  the  form  nearly  round — the  blossom  end  flat,  the  stem 
almost  an  inch  long,  growing  a  little  on  one  side — the  skin  has  a 
small  degree  of  roughness;  of  a  rich  yellow  on  one  side,  and  on 
the  other  a  brilliant  red,  dotted  with  yellow ;  the  flesh  rich  and 
juicy,  breaking,  and  highly  flavoured  ;  the  growth  of  the  tree 
vigorous,  with  long  hanging  limbs — in  perfection  about  the  twen- 
tieth of  July. 

Julienne. — Is  a  pear  of  about  the  common  size  in  good  ground, 
but  smaller  in  a  less  rich  soil,  or  on  old  trees ;  it  is  of  a  round 
form,  a  little  extended,  and  diminishing  towards  the  stalk,  v,  hich 
is  short  and  rather  small — the  skin  is  smooth,  when  fully  ripe,  of 
a  bright  yellow,  sometimes  with  a  faint  blush  towards  the  sun— 
the  flesh  is  sprightly,  rich,  and  juicy  if  gathered  before  fully  ripe, 
and  kept  a  few  days  in  the  house;  it  bears  young  and  most  abun- 
dantly— the  appearance  and  qualities  of  this  pear,  have  obtained 
the  name  of  the  butter  pear  of  summer. 

Musk. — This  excellent  and  popular  pear  is  less  than  the  medium 
size — the  form  is  oval,  a  little  produced  towards  the  stem,  which 
is  short  and  thick,  the  blossom  end  round  and  even;  the  eye  large 
— the  skin  a  greenish  yellow,  with  a  brilliant  cheek  towards  the 
sun,  sometimes  red,  sometimes  brown,  spotted  with  small  dots  in 
every  part ;  the  flesh  is  half  breaking,  fine,  and  of  a  high  and 
very  peculiar  musky  flavour,  whence  it  derives  its  name  in  com- 
mon use.  The  tree  is  remarkably  vigorous,  grows  with  long 
shoots  like  the  Catharine,  from  which  it  is  often  called  the  late 
Catharine,  or  autumn  Catharine;  it  does  not  bear  till  large,  it  is 
then  very  fruitful ;  the  time  of  ripening  in  August  and  September; 
it  is  eaten  in  the  highest  perfection  when  fully  ripe  from  the  tree. 

Seckle  Pear. — So  called  from  Mr.  Seckle  of  Philadelphia,  the 
proprietor  of  the  original  tree  now  growing  on  his  estate  near  that 
city — it  is  in  the  general  estimation  of  amateurs  of  fine  fruit,  both 
natives  and  foreigners,  the  finest  pear  of  this  or  any  other  country ; 


100  THE   FRUIT-GARDEN. 

it  is  believed  to  be  a  native  fruit,  produced  from  the  seed  of  a  fine 
pear  (of  which  the  original  proprietor  owned  many  varieties),  ac- 
cidentally dropped  where  this  tree  now  grows.  The  form  and 
appearance  vary  with  aspect,  age,  and  cultivation — the  size  gene- 
rally is  small,  tiie  form  regular,  round  at  the  ijlossom  end,  diminish- 
ing with  a  gentle  swell  towards  the  stem,  which  is  rather  short 
and  thick;  the  skin  is  sometimes  yellow,  with  a  bright  red  cheek, 
and  smooth;  at  other  times  a  perfect  russet,  without  any  blush; 
the  flesh  is  melting,  juicy,  and  most  exquisitely  and  delicately 
flavoured  ;  the  time  of  ripening  is  from  the  end  of  August  to  the 
middle  of  October.  The  tree  is  singularly  vigorous  and  beautiful, 
of  great  regularit)'  of  growth  and  richness  of  foliage — very  hardy, 
and  possessing  all  the  characteristics  of  a  new  variety. 

Holland.— This  is  rather  a  large  pear,  of  very  irregular  form, 
the  skin  is  green,  with  a  number  of  indistinct  spots,  and  small 
russet  clouds — the  flesh  is  remarkably  juicy,  delicate  and  luscious, 
melting  and  sprightly,  of  a  greenish  white  cast — it  is  very  wide 
at  the  blossom  end,  lessens  suddenly  to  an  obtuse  point  at  the 
stem,  with  an  uneven  though  smooth  skin — the  stalk  is  very  long; 
few  pears  are  more  admired  at  a  season  when  fine  pears  are  com- 
mon— it  ripens  in  September  and  October ;  the  tree  is  of  strong 
and  vigorous  growth,  with  long  branches,  the  foliage  luxuriant. — it 
is  a  great  and  uniform  bearer;  it  was  imported  from  Holland  by 
the  late  William  Clifton  of  Philadelphia. 

Ye/low  Butter. — This  pear,  in  the  opinion  of  many  good  judges, 
is  on  a  par  for  excellence  of  flavour  with  the  Seckle — it  is  large, 
fair,  handsome,  melting,  juicy,  and  delicately  flavoured;  to  have 
it  in  perfection,  it  should  be  gathered  before  fully  ripe,  when  it 
begins  to  turn  yellow,  and  be  kept  some  time  in  the  house,  or 
otherwise  it  will  lose  much  of  its  juicy  and  melting  qualities ;  it  is 
round  and  rather  oblong  in  shape,  somewhat  diminished  towards 
the  stem,  which  is  short  and  thick ;  the  flesh  white  and  singularly 
cold,  the  skin  a  bright  yellow,  sometimes  with  a  blush,  at  other 
times  covered  with  a  bright  russet;  it  is  in  season  from  the  begin- 
ning of  September  to  the  first  part  of  November,  when  carefully 
preserved,  by  gathering  with  the  hand  in  dry  weather ;  it  is  a 
never-failing  and  abundant  bearer,  and  produces  fruit  at  an  early 
age. 

St.  Germaine. — Is  a  fine  winter  pear,  by  many  erroneously  called 
the  green  Chissel,  (which  is  a  summer  pear)  the  size  is  large,  of 
an  irregular  form,  generally  diminished  towards  the  stem,  and 
sometimes  towards  the  crown — the  skin  is  green  till  fully  ripe,  and 
very  thick,  whence  it  is  often  called  the  walnut  pear;  the  stem  is 
short,  and  generally  planted  in  an  oblique  direction,  the  crow^n  is 
large  and  not  much  sunk;  the  flesh  is  very  highly  flavoured,  rich, 
juicy  and  sprightly  beyond  any  other  pear  wlien  the  season  is  fa- 
vourable ;  it  ripens  in  November  in  a  close  warm  situation,  it  ia 


THE   FRUIT-GARDEN.  101 

frequently  kept  till  late  in  the  winter  by  care  and  attention.  It  is 
to  be  regretted  that  the  tree  is  very  subject  to  the  fire  blight,  so 
destructive  of  the  finest  and  most  delicate  pears  in  this  country. 

Muscat. — Is  a  very  fine  winter  pear,  ripening  in  November,  and 
in  good  seasons  continuing  in  perfection  during  the  winter,  when 
it  is  of  much  superior  quality  to  that  of  ordinary  pears ;  the  blos- 
som end  is  wide,  and  very  flat,  so  as  to  appear  almost  triangular  in 
profile,  diminishing  suddenly  at  the  crown,  with  a  very  long  stem; 
the  skin  is  rough  and  green,  with  black  clouds  and  some  russet — 
the  flesh  is  yellow,  rich,  buttery,  and  of  a  sprightly  flavour ;  it 
ranks  among  the  most  estimable  pears  imported  from  France :  the 
tree  is  vigorous,  of  large  growth,  and  very  fruitful  —  there  is  a 
peculiarity  in  this  pear  worthy  of  notice ;  the  eye  is  very  small, 
frequently  naked,  entirely  without  the  flower  leaf. 

UEchasserie. — This  pear  is  of  the  medium  size,  an  oval  form, 
diminished  towards  the  stalk,  the  blossom  end  very  round,  the  eye 
not  sunk,  the  stalk  is  large:  the  flesh  is  melting,  buttery  and  fine, 
the  juice  sweet,  musky  and  very  pleasant — the  skin  is  of  a  light 
yellow,  inclining  to  white ;  its  maturity  is  from  November  to 
Februar}' — and  it  is  an  excellent  pear ;  the  tree  is  very  handsome 
and  fruitful,  and  is  an  early  bearer. 

BenselPs  Winter. — This  pear  takes  its  name  from  the  original 
cultivator,  near  Philadelphia.  It  is  a  large  full  round  pear;  the 
skin  yellow,  the  flesh  firm  and  juicy,  somewhat  astringent — it  is  a 
fine  keeping  fruit,  and  a  great  bearer. 

Crasanne. — This  pear  is  among  the  most  estimable  varieties ;  it 
is  generally  of  the  medium  size,  but  on  young  trees  and  rich 
ground  it  sometimes  grows  large — it  is  of  the  Bergamotte  shape, 
rather  round,  the  skin,  when  ripe,  a  greenish  yellow,  full  of  dis- 
tinct black  dots,  very  thin  and  tender:  the  flesh  is  singularly  melt- 
ing, rich,  juicy  and  sweet,  but  not  sprightly — it  is  sometimes  in 
France  called  the  flat  Beurree;  it  ripens  in  October  after  the  yellow 
Beurree,  and,  with  care  in  gathering  it  from  the  tree  when  dry, 
will  keep  a  month  or  six  weeks  in  the  house ;  it  is  a  great  bearer, 
of  vigorous  growth,  and  hardy ;  I  know  few  pears  more  deserving 
extensive  cultivation. 

Ban  Chretien. — This  is  a  very  large  pear,  of  the  form  of  a  trun- 
cated pyramid — the  blossom  end  is  much  swelled,  the  eye  deeply 
sunk  in  a  furrowed  cavity,  which  forms  angular  ridges,  extendinor 
themselves  to  the  body  of  the  pear;  the  end  towards  the  stalk  is 
much  diminished,  without  being  pointed — it  terminates  obliquely  : 
the  stalk  is  about  an  inch  long,  and  fleshy — this  pear  is  sometimes 
six  inches  in  length  and  four  in  width ;  the  skin  is  a  finely  grained 
clear  yellow,  approaching  to  green  on  the  shady  side,  with  a  bright 
red  towards  the  sun — the  flesh  is  fine  and  tender,  though  breaking, 
very  juicy,  mild  and  sugary — sometimes  odoriferous  and  vinous; 
9* 


102  THE    FRUIT-GARDEN. 

it  19  ripe  in  January,  and  lasts  till  spring ;  the  leaves  are  of  mode- 
rate size,  the  foot  stalks  of  great  lengtii. 

Plums. Plums  are  more  generally  budded  than  grafted;  but 

they  may  be  and  are,  sometimes  grafted  ;  the  stocks  for  budding 
plums  must  be  raised  from  the  stone  of  the  pium.  It  is  in  almost 
all  cases  reared  in  this  country  as  a  aiandard,  or  self-supported 
tree;  of  robust  constitution,  it  seems  to  thrive  on  all  soils,  and  in 
all  situations,  and  vv-ere  it  not  for  the  curculio,  which  df  posites  its 
eggs  in  the  embryo  fruit,  we  should  have  plums  as  plentifully  as 
clierries.  The  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society  some  years 
since  made  a  liberal  otfer  for  the  discovery  of  some  protection 
against  its  attack,  but  though  various  methods  have  been  sug- 
gested, none  it  is  feared  are  fully  eflicient.  In  the  cities  the  plum 
is  less  liable  to  its  attacks,  and  fruit  of  the  most  tempting  charac- 
ter is  there  grown.  The  annual  exhibitions  of  the  society  just  re- 
ferred to  give  evidence  of  what  might  be  within  our  reach  if  it 
were  not  for  that  insect  pest.  The  trained  or  espalier  mode  is  the 
favourite  one  with  the  plum,  as  with  most  other  fruit  trees,  in 
England ;  and  though  we  think  but  little  is  to  be  gained  by  it  here, 
60  far  as  the  plum  is  concerned,  still  it  may  not  be  amiss  to  present 
some  extracts  on  the  subject. 

The  plum  does  not  require  so  much  room  as  other  wall  trees,  nor 
yet  so  much  as  pears  or  apples  in  espalier.  They  seldom  bear  on 
the  last  year's  v/ood,  but  generally  on  spurs.  The  same  treatment 
must  be  observed  in  their  pruning  and  training  as  that  recom- 
mended for  the  apricot.  Plums  are  generally  placed  against  a  wall 
facing  the  east,  west,  or  north,  and  the  greengage  grows  finer 
trained  against  a  north  wall  than  when  it  has  a  southern  aspect. 
It  is,  perhaps,  not  quite  so  sweet,  but  it  grows  larger,  comes  in 
more  by  degrees,  and  is  of  finer  flavour  than  when  exposed  to  a 
hot  sun. 

When  plum  trees  have  become  barren  and  unsightly,  the}^  may 
be  brought  into  good  form  and  fruitfulness  by  being  cut  down. 
When,  after  this  operation,  they  shoot  forth  in  the  spring,  the 
shoots  should  be  regulated  as  regards  their  number  and  position. 
If  any  of  the  shoots  grow  too  long,  which  they  are  very  apt  to  do, 
stop  them  by  pinching  off  their  extremities,  which  will  check  and 
cause  them  to  produce  wood  of  a  more  moderate  growth  and  likely 
to  be  sooner  fruitful.  Much  depends  on  the  earl}'  management  of 
a  tree  in  giving  it  a  good  and  regular  form,  and  by  this  method 
you  will  keep  the  trees  in  a  flourishing  state :  when  the  branches 
are  thus  managed,  they  will  frequently  throw  out  small  spurs  or 
fore-right  shoots  about  an  inch  or  two  long,  which  will  flower  the 
next  year.  They  should  never  be  shortened  till  after  the  fruit  is 
set,  and  become  about  the  size  of  a  large  pea ;  by  that  time  the 
leaves  will  have  grown  large  enough  to  cover  the  fruit,  and  will  be 
able  to  protect  it  from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather.  You  may 
then  shorten  these  shoots  close  to  the  fruit,  which  will  leave  them 


THE    FRUIT-GARDEN.  103 

from  one  to  two  inches  long.  Where  it  is  convenient,  one  wall 
should  be  allotted  for  plums  and  another  for  cherries,  as  they  will 
thrive  best  by  themselves. 

October  is  the  best  month  for  putting  into  the  ground  a  few 
plum-stones  in  order  to  raise  stocks  for  budding.  A  dry,  light, 
mellow  soil  is  the  best;  the  earth  must  be  dug  and  prepared  into 
a  bed  three. or  four  feet  wide :  take  an  inch  or  two  of  earth  evenly 
off  the  top,  then  sow  the  stones  moderately  thick,  press  them  into 
the  surface  with  the  spade,  and  cover  them  in  with  earth  about  an 
inch  and  a  half  deep,  in  a  regular  manner.  Cherry-stones  are  to 
be  sown  in  the  same  \vay.  It  is  a  good  method  also  to  preserve 
some  plum-stones  in  sand  till  spring,  as  a  reserve,  in  case  those 
sown  in  October  should  be  destroyed  by  vermin,  or  severe  frost. 
A  large  garden  pot  will  do  for  this  purpose,  covering  the  bottom 
three  inches  deep  with  dry  sand;  then  scatter  in  a  parcel  of  the 
stones,  and  cover  them  two  inches  deep ;  then  scatter  in  more 
stones,  covering  them  also  with  sand.  You  may  thus  preserve  as 
many  as  j^ou  please,  for  stones  thus  treated  will  keep  securely  till 
the  middle  or  latter  end  of  February,  when  they  must  be  sown  in 
the  nursery  bed  as  directed  above. 

Among  the  more  desirable  kinds  of  plums  grown  in  this  country 
may  be  named  the  following: 

Cowperthwaite's  Reine  Claude,  Green  Gage, 

Holland  Prune,  Magnum  Bonum, 

Keyser  (Ruling's  Superb),  German  Quetzer, 

Imperial  Gage,  Yellow  Etrg, 

Coe's  Golden  Drop,  Bingham's  Yellow  Egg, 

Bolmar's  Washington,  Copper. 

Quinces  are  used  as  a  flavour  with  apples,  and  make  an  elegant 
preserve  or  marmalade.  They  succeed  very  well  as  standards, 
and  are  sometimes  planted  in  espalier  to  form  a  variety  among 
other  fruit  trees ;  they  are  trained  and  managed  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  the  apple  or  pear.  The  grub  at  the  root  is  apt  to  attack  the 
quince,  and  therefore  it  is  prudent  to  examine  them  once  or  twice 
during  the  season,  and  with  a  pliant  wire  probe  the  channel  formed 
by  that  insect — in  doing  which  it  will  generally  be  killed. 

There  are  three  varieties  in  cultivation:  the  Orange,  the  Portu- 
gal, and  the  Pear-shaped. 

The  Raspberry  will  grow  in  almost  any  soil,  but  will  not  bear 
well  unless  planted  in  good  rich  earth,  and  having  a  plentiful  sup- 
ply of  manure  once  in  three  years.  The  ground  should  be  well 
trenched  out  before  planting,  and  October  is  the  best  month  for 
this  operation.  Three,  or  at  the  most  five  off-sets  may  be  planted 
together  in  a  clump,  each  clump  being  five  or  six  feet  from  the 
other,  or  they  may  be  planted  in  rows,  east  and  west,  about  four 
feet  apart.  If  you  are  not  anxious  for  fruit  the  first  year,  cut  the 
plants  down  to  within  six  inches  of  the  ground,  and  much  finer 


104  THE    FRUIT-GARDEN. 

and  stronger  suckers  will  be  formed.  When  taken  up  to  ba 
planted,  the  roots  should  not  be  suffered  to  dry  in  the  sun.  The 
largest  raspberry  is  the  Antwerp.  It  is  distinguished  principally 
as  the  red  and  white,  but  there  is  also  a  very  fine  yellow  kind. 
The  shoot  that  has  borne  dies  down  to  the  ground  in  the  autumn, 
and  its  place  is  supplied  by  off-sets  that  spring  up  during  the  sum- 
mer; these  are  the  bearing  plants  of  the  next  year:  from  three  to 
five  may  be  left,  being  shortened  down  to  about  five  feet;  but  the 
weakly  ones  should  be  removed,  as  also  the  dead  wood  of  the 
last  year.  In  November  and  March,  all  the  ground  round  them 
should  be  carefully  diggi^-d,  and  the  weeds  be  kept  down  all  the 
summer.  The  stems  should  be  slightly  bent  towards  the  centre, 
and  tied  loosely  by  a  piece  of  bass  to  a  stake,  to  prevent  their 
breaking  off  with  the  wind.  They  should  be  shifted  into  new  soil 
once  in  four  or  five  years,  as  they  deteriorate  the  soil  by  an  excre- 
mentitious  slime  which  they  throw  off.  When  loaded  with  leaves 
and  fruit,  the  stems  require  to  be  supported  by  a  stake.  They 
require  a  good  supply  of  water  in  a  dry  season,  from  the  time  the 
blossom  begins  to  fall,  and  they  will  bear  well  if  shaded  from  too 
strong  a  sun^  The  Antwerp  raspberry  does  not  succeed  as  well 
in  this  country  as  in  Europe;  and  though  our  native  varieties  pro- 
duce fruit  of  much  smaller  size,  they  are  more  certainly  to  be 
relied  on. 

Strawberries  are  amongst  the  most  delicious  fruits  produced 
in  this  country  ;  they  are  general  favourites,  and  are  easily  propa- 
gated. There  are  many  kinds,  but  the  mode  of  management  requi- 
site is  the  same  for  all,  except  the  Alpine,  which  is  raised  from 
seed.  The  soil  best  adapted  for  the  strawberry,  is  a  strong  rich 
and  adhesive  loam,  retentive  of  moisture ;  drought  is  a  great  enemy 
to  them  ;  but  any  soil  will  produce  strawberries,  whether  it  be  rich 
or  not,  if  it  be  not  too  dry.  In  preparing  a  bed,  care  should  be  had 
to  trench  it  well  a  foot  and  a  half  deep,  and  to  dig  in  a  good  supply 
of  well-rotted  dung,  with  the  earth  brought  to  the  surface. 

The  off-sets  of  the  first  spring  runners  should  be  planted  out  in 
the  first  week  in  August ;  those  which  are  large  and  healthy  should 
alone  be  selected,  and  there  are  always  enough  produced  to  pre- 
vent the  necessity  of  using  small  ones.  Old  stoles  which  have 
borne  once,  (those  which  have  borne  twice  should  be  thrown 
away),  may  be  replanted  any  time  between  March  and  October. 
Off-sets  may  be  planted  along  the  side  of  the  beds  near  the  edge  of 
the  walks,  and  make  a  pretty  and  useful  edging;  they  should  be 
placed  about  ten  inches  apart,  and  if  two  rows  are  planted,  the 
second  row  must  be  placed  at  fifteen  inches  behind  the  first. 
These  should  be  kept  clear  of  runners,  or  they  will  soon  smother 
up  the  beds;  indeed  all  runners  should  be  cut  from  the  strawberry 
plants  during  the  first  year.  An  excellent  way  is  to  plant  straw- 
berries in  clumps  of  three  or  four  together,  six  inches  between 
each  plant  being  allowed,  and  the  clumps  standing  three  feet 
asunder. 


THE    FRUIT-GARDEN.  105 

Beds  with  four  rows  each,  and  two  feet  allowed  hetween  the 
beds,  for  the  growth  of  cabbages,  is  found  to  answer  well ;  a 
good  situation  for  strawberries  is  where  they  have  the  shelter  of 
dwarf  apple,  pear  or  other  trees,  which  are  planted  along  the  side 
of  a  walk ;  a  bed  of  about  three  or  four  feet  wide  may  be  planted 
beneath  these  trees,  without  either  injuring  or  receiving  injury 
from  them.  They  may  be  planted  in  two  or  three  rows,  and  may 
be  allowed  to  spread  and  extend  themselves  over  the  whole  surface 
of  the  bed,  cutting  off  such  as  are  disposed  to  wander  beyond  the 
prescribed  limits.  These  beds  being  thus  protected  from  drought, 
generally  produce  well,  and  longer  than  in  single  rows. 

When  strawberries  are  planted,  it  is  requisite  to  fix  the  roots  well 
in  the  ground,  or  they  are  liable  to  be  thrown  out  by  the  frost,  or  be 
drawn  out  by  the  earth-worm.  If  it  be  dry,  they  must  be  abundantly 
supplied  with  water,  particularly  just  as  the  blossom  sets,  not  by 
merely  sprinkling  a  little  over  the  surface  of  the  whole  bed,  but  by 
giving  a  copious  supply  to  each  root,  twice  a-day  ;  but  not  wetting 
the  blossoms.  They  must  be  kept  clear  from  weeds,  stirring  the 
earth  with  a  fork,  not  a  spade,  and  not  going  so  near  as  to  disturb 
the  root:  birds,  snails,  and  slugs,  must  be  guarded  against. 
When  the  fruit  lies  too  near  the  earth,  a  piece  of  glass,  tile,  or 
slate,  may  be  laid  under  the  bunch  to  keep  them  from  the  sandy 
particles,  or  a  little  hay-straw,  or  dry  moss  may  be  laid  under  them. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  the  stravi'berry  known  around  Phila- 
delphia, but  the  old  Hudson  is  most  generally  cultivated  ;  the  male 
and  female  flowers  in  this  kind  are  on  separate  plants ;  and  as  the 
former  is  the  most  robust,  care  must  be  taken  to  prevent  its  takino- 
entire  possession  to  the  exclusion  of  the  fruitful  vines  ;  the  want  of 
attention  in  that  particular,  is  the  cause  of  frequent  failure  in  the 
cultivation  of  this  delicious  fruit.  Keen's  seedling,  and  Hovey's 
seedling,  both  produce  berries  of  enormous  size;  we  have  mea- 
sured the  former  five  and  a  half  inches  in  circumference;  they 
(Keen's  and  Hovey's),  have  each  flavour  perfect,  but  advantage 
has  been  found  in  mixing  with  them  the  male  plants  of  the  Hudson. 

The  Grape  Vine  is  propagated  from  cuttings  or  from  layers  :  a 
layer  is  a  shoot  from  the  vine,  laid  into  the  ground,  having  a 
sloping  cut  made  in  the  under-side  of  it  through  a  joint.  When 
the  slit  is  properly  mad^,  and  the  shoot  layed  into  the  ground,  the 
fore  part  of  the  shoot  is  then  to  be  tacked  to  the  wall,  or  to  a  stake 
driven  into  the  ground  for  that  purpose.  This  operation  is  to  be 
performed  in  the  spring,  and  in  the  fall  of  the  year  it  will  have 
become  a  young  vine  with  a  good  root  to  it;  but  as  vines  do  not 
remove  well,  it  is  best,  in  February,  to  lay  the  shoot  down  into 
a  large  garden-pot,  plunged  into  the  border,  and  three  parts  filled 
with  earth  :  put  a  good  straight  stick  down  into  the  flower-pot,  at 
the  same  time  put  a  peg  to  prevent  the  shoot  from  rising  up, 
and  tie  the  top  of  the  shoot  to  the  stick;  then  fill  the  pot  with 
earth,  and  press  it  down  well,  so  as  to  lie  hollow  in  the  middle,  to 


lOQ^  THE    FRUIT-GARDEN. 

retain  the  moisture :  soon  after  this  has  been  done,  cut  off  the  fore- 
part of  the  shoot  to  within  a  joint  or  two  of  the  ground;  tie  it 
firmly  to  the  stick,  and  when  it  makes  shoots  tie  one  of  them  to  the 
stick  and  cut  the  other  way.  At  the  end  of  autumn  cut  the  layer 
from  the  vine  and  take  up  the  pot,  and  the  young  vine  is  ready  to 
place  in  any  situation  required.  You  must  make  a  hole  tor  this 
purpose,  and  turn  the  ball  of  earth  out  with  the  vine,  m  the  same 
manner  that  you  planted  out  the  melons.  The  vine  may  be  thus 
transplanted  any  time  before  the  middle  of  February,  and  when  it 
is  put  into  the  earth  it  should  be  cut  down  to  within  two  or  three 
buds  of  the  ground.  , 

Vines  are  also  propagated  by  cuttings,  which  should  be  taken 
for  this  purpose  before  the  middle  of  February,  and  should  be 
shoots  of  the  last  summer,  with  an  inch  or  two  of  the  last  year  s 
wood  at  the  bottom  of  them,  though  this  is  not  indispensable ;  but 
the  cuttings  must  have  four  or  five  buds  or  joints.  The  ground  to 
receive  the  cuttings  must  be  made  rich  and  fine,  dug  deep  and 
well  prepared.  Then  each  cutting  is  to  be  put  in  with  a  setting- 
stick,  leaving  only  two  buds  or  joints  above  the  ground ;  the  cut- 
ting must  be  planted  firmly  in  the  ground.  ,    ,  ..  • 

There  is  another  method  of  propagating  by  cuttings,  but  it  is  not 
so  commonly  adopted.  At  about  the  same  time  you  would  take  a 
cutting  in  the  manner  last  directed,  take  a  bud  of  the  last  year  s 
wood,  cutting  all  the  wood  away,  except  about  half  an  inch  above 
and  as  much  below  the  bud,  shave  off  the  bark  and  a  little  way 
into  the  wood  at  the  back  of  the  bud  of  this  inch-long  cutting; 
then  bury  it  two  inches  deep  in  a  pot  of  good  earth,  taking  care  to 
keep  the  bud  in  an  upright  position  :  you  need  not  hesitate  to  cover 
the  bud  over,  as  it  will  shoot  through  the  mould,  and  the  place 
where  vou  scraped  off  the  bark  will  send  out  vigorous  roots,  and 
thus  produce  a  healthy  young  vine,  to  be  managed  in  the  manner 
directed  for  cuttings  above.  .  i         •     4. 

The  vine  is  a  creeping  plant,  throwing  out  the  most  luxuriaiit 
shoots  at  the  extremity  of  the  branches,  where  these  are  laid  hori- 
zontally or  perpendicularly.  In  training  it,  it  is  necessary  to  keep 
three  obiects  in  view  :  first,  to  cover  the  space  allotted  with  fruitful 
branches,  leaving  room  for  ripening  the  fruit,  and  for  branches 
that  are  to  bear  the  succeeding  year :  secondly,  to  take  oil  the  top 
of  each  branch  bearing  fruit,  the  third  joint  abore  the  uppermost 
bunch,  except  such  branches  as  are  required  to  bear  fruit  the  next 
year,  which  latter  must  be  exposed,  and  by  no  means  topped ;  for 
if  the  sap  is  checked  in  these,  many  of  their  buds  will  burst  the 
same  season,  and  the  fruit  of  the  next  year  be  destroyed  :  thirdly, 
take  off  all  laterals  as  they  arise,  and  any  shoots  which,  though 
laid  in  for  fruit,  turn  out  unproductive,  that  the  whole  strength  ot 
the  tree  may  be  called  into  operation. 

Vines  may  be  pruned  in  the  fall  of  the  year,  when  the  sap  is 
eompletely  down,  but  not  left  unpruned  beyond  February,  or  the 


THE    FRUIT-GARDEN.  |07 

cap  will  have  begun  to  rise.  When  you  commence  pruning, 
always  make  choice  of  the  strongest  and  longest  shoots,  leavinc^ 
them  as  long  as  you  find  the  eyes  good  and  plump,  and  the  wood 
sound  :  the  shoots  that  have  borne  fruit,  should  be  cut  out  the  fol- 
lowing year,  except  when  you  want  to  fill  the  wall,  and  the  shoots 
are  very  strong:  never  leave  any  but  fine,  strong  wood,  always 
cutting  at  the  second,  third,  or  fourth  eye  ;  rubbing  the  lowest  bud 
off  and  that  which  comes  out  of  the  joint,  between  the  new  and 
last  year  s  wood  :  always  leave  two  or  three  of  the  strongest  shoots 
for  next  year  s  bearing  wood,  and  never  top  them.  Vines  are, 
sometimes,  planted  between  trees  on  north  and  east  aspects,  and 
then  trained  over  the  tops  of  the  south  and  west  walls  to  fill  the 
upper  parts,  till  the  peaches  and  nectarines  cover  them 

VVhen  vines  are  pruned  too  late,  that  is,  after  the  sap  has  risen, 
(which  should  never  be  done  when  it  can  be  avoided),  the  cut 
parts  are  apt  to  bleed  excessively,  which  weakens  the  vine;  in 
this  case,  it  has  been  recommended  to  take  four  parts  of  scraped 
cheese,  and  one  part  of  calcined  oyster-shells,  or  rather  pure  calca- 
reous earth,  which,  being  mixed,  must  be  pressed  into  the  pores  of 
the  wood,  and  it  will  immediately  stop  the  flow  of  the  sap;  ano- 
ther method  is,  to  cover  the  wound  with  white  lead,  in  the  form 
01  paint. 

Vines  require  summer  as  well  as  winter  prunino-,  and  by  the 
latter  end  of  May,  those  against  walls  should  be  lo'oked  over,  as 
by  this  time,  in  a  forward  season,  numerous  sprino-  shoots  will  be 
advancing,  and  the  useless  ones  should  be  remov°ed,  as  the  small 
shoots  from  the  old  wood  seldom  produce  grapes,  and  should 
therefore  be  rubbed  off,  except  in  places  where  a  supply  of  new 
wood  is  required  But  leave,  at  this  time,  all  the  shoots  which 
spring  from  the  last  year's  wood  ;  and  if  the  two  shoots  arise  on 
one  joint,  rub  off  clean,  with  the  finger,  the  smaller  of  the  two. 
Irain  the  remaining  shoots,  as  they  attain  length,  close  to  the 
wall,  regularly,  so  that  they  and  the  fruit  may  enjoy  both  sun 
and  air.  ''      •*  •' 

^By  thus  regulating  the  vines  early  in  the  spring,  the  grapes  will 
advance  more  rapidly  in  their  growth,  become  larger,  and  ripen 
sooner,  a  very  great  advantage  in  our  climate.  As  the  sprino- 
advances,  even  strong  shoots,  that  are  destitute  of  fruit,  and  appear 
too  numerous,  or  rise  in  places  where  they  are  not  wanted,  or  will 
not  train  well  in,  must  be  displaced,  leaving  always,  in  every 
part,  as  many  well-placed  and  strong-growing  shoots  as  can  be 
trained  in  regularly  :  nail  up  all  these  shoots  close  to  the  wall, 
and  generally  at  full  length,  in  the  summer  prunino-,  where  there 
IS  room  to  extend  them;  let  every  shoot  be  laid  in'straicrht,  and 
clear  of  another,  in  a  regular  manner.  All  tendrills  and  side-shoots 
should  be  cleared  off  as  soon  as  they  appear,  which  will  crive  the 
iruit  all  the  nourishment  the  tree  affords.  All  these  summer 
dressings  may  nearly  be  effected  by  the  finger  and  thumb,  while 


106  THE    FKUIT-GARDLN. 

the  shoots  aro  quite  young  and  herbaceous,  as  in  this  stage  all  the 
superfiuous  shoots  may  be  i  xpeditiously  removed  without  a  knife. 

Vines  o-rowing  in  forcing-houses  may  be  much  improved  in  fla- 
vour, as  well  as  be  brought  to  ripen  earlier,  by  taking  away  circles 
of  bark,  when  the  fruit  is  set,  and  the  grapes  appear  about  the  size 
of  small  shot;  the  removed  circles  may  be  made  wider  in  the  hot- 
house than  on  vines  growing  in  the  open  air,  as  the  bark  is  sooner 
renewed  in  forcing-houses;  but  weak  vines  will  not  at  all  admit  of 
this  operation  being  performed.  "Where  the  vine  is  strong  enough 
to  bear  it,  in  the  latter  end  of  July,  you  may  make  inscisions 
through  the  hark  on. the  trunk,  removing  a  circle  of  bark,  leaving 
the  naked  alburnum,  about  one  or  two-eighths  of  an  inch  in  width, 
completely  exposed.  But  all  shoots  which  come  out  from  the  root 
of  the  vine,  or  from  the  front  of  the  trunk,  situated  below  the  inci- 
sion, must  be  removed  as  often  as  they  appear,  unless  bearing 
wood  is  particularly  wanted  to  fill  up  the  lower  part  of  the  wall, 
in  which  case  one  or  two  shoots  may  be  left.  About  ten  days 
after  the  operation  has  been  performed,  look  on  the  part  from 
vvhence  the  bark  has  been  removed,  and  separate  any  small  portion 
which  may  have  escaped  the  knife  the  first  lime,  otherwise  it  will 
adhere  to  the  alburnum,  which  must  be  prevented. 

In  August,  it  is  requisite  again  to  look  over  the  vines,  and  clear 
them  from  useless  branches;  examine,  also,  all  the  bearing  and 
other  proper  shoots,  and  see  that  they  are  well  fastened  to  the  wall, 
and  the  shoots  having  fruit  on  them  may  now  be  topped,  as  must 
others  which  have  advanced  beyond  bounds. 

The  choice  European  varieties  seldom  succeed  in  this  country, 
unless  in  the  dry,  warm  atmosphere  of  cities.  In  such  situations, 
they  are  frequently  grown  to  great  perfection.  In  Philadelphia, 
the  grape  is  a  popular  fruit,  scarcely  a  yard  being  unprovided  with 
a  vine;  and  the  shows  of  fruit,  at  the  annual  exhibitions  of  the 
Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society,  are  of  the  most  gratifying 
character.  For  general  cultivation,  through  ihe  coimtry,  the  Elsen- 
burg,  (blue),  Catawba,  (pale  red),  and  Izabella,  (deep  purple),  are 
much  the  better  kinds;  indeed,  i^iw  others  are  worth  planting.  . 

Walnuts. — 'I'hese  trees  are  more  fit  for  the  park,  than  for  the 
garden  or  orchard,  but  are  by  no  means  unbecoming  appendages  to 
the  pleasure-ground.  They  will  thrive  in  any  common  soil  or 
situation:  the  way  to  raise  them,  is  to  take  the  vialnuts  when 
quite  ripe,  and  preserve  them  in  sand,  as  directed  for  plum-stones, 
&;c.  Sow  til  em  late  in  February,  and  the  tree  will  be  a  foot  high 
by  the  end  of  autumn.  If  it  is  intended  to  stand  where  it  is  sown, 
FiO  more  is  requisite  than  to  keep  the  ground  about  it  clean,  and  to 
prune  off  the  side  shoots  at  the  bottom,  always  leaving  a  tolerable 
head  until  you  have  a  good  trunk  of  a  sufT.cient  height.  But  if 
the  tree  is  to  be  trans})lanted,  you  must  take  it  up  in  the  second 
autumn  after  sowing,  not  later,  as  it  makes  a  long  tap  root,  and 
removes  with  <lifficulty  when  a  -year  oi  two  old.     When  you  take 


THE   FRUIT-GARDEN.  109 

the  young  plant  up,  cut  off  the  tap-root  to  within  six  inches  of  the 
stem,  and  place  it  in  the  nursery  for  about  three  years,  and  then  it 
will  remove  with  a  good  bushy  root.  Keep  the  side-shoots  pruned 
off,  and  the  tree  will  form  a  o-ood  head. 

GRAFTING  AND  BUDDING— Grafting  fruit  trees  is  a 
delicate  and  important  operation,  and  we  will  briefly  describe  the 
process,  only  repeating,  that  for  private  gardens,  it  is  more  expedi- 
tious to  purchase  the  trees  ready  for  planting  out,  than  to  attempt 
it.  Before  any  stock  is  grafted,  it  ought  to  stand  one  sunnner  in 
the  place  which  it  so  occupies  at  the  time  of  the  operation ;  but 
stocks  must  not  stand  two  summers,  or  they  will  have  formed  too 
large  and  long  roots,  which  will  suffer  considerably  in  removing. 

The  operation  of  grafting  consists  in  removing  a  branch  from 
one  tree,  and  inserting  it  on  the  stem  of  another,  in  such  a  way 
that  the  stock,  on  which  the  cutting  is  placed,  sends  up  its  sap 
into  the  cutting,  and  thus  nourishes  and  makes  it  grow  into  a  tree 
occupying  the  place  of  the  natural  head  of  the  stock,  which  has 
been  removed  to  make  way  for  the  graft.  When  a  cutting  is  thus 
applied,  it  is  called  a  scion. 

Grafting  is  generally  performed  sometime  between  the  beginning 
of  February  and  the  end  of  March.  But  the  proper  period  of  graft- 
ing depends  on  the  nature  of  the  season,  whether  it  be  a  late  or 
early  one,  and  must  be  determined  by  the  fulness  and  bursting 
appearance  of  the  buds  on  the  stocks,  and  should  be  regulated  by 
the  mildness  of  the  weather,  which,  with  occasional  showers,  is 
favourable  for  this  operation.  Choose  the  tree  you  mean  to  propa- 
gate or  graft  from,  in  the  early  part  of  February,  and  take  from  it 
as  many  branches  of  the  last  year's  growth  as  will  afford  you  the 
desired  number  of  scions.  If  it  be  a  flourishing  young  tree,  take 
the  branches  from  the  outside  shoots,  as  those  near  the°middle  are 
likely  to  produce  more  wood  than  fruit,  but  do  not  take  them  from 
the  lowest  limbs,  as  these  are  often  weakly.  If  the  tree  is  old, 
take  the  branches  where  they  can  be  found  the  most  vigorous,  of 
the  last  year's  growth.  Bury  these  branches  to  the  middle  in  dry 
mould,  and  when  the  time  for  grafting  has  come,  take  them  up, 
and  cut  them  into  proper  lengths.  The  middle  part  of  each 
branch  will  generally  be  found  the  best.  Each  scion  should  have 
from  three  to  six  buds  on  it,  which  will  be  quite  sufficient,  as  a 
great  length  of  scion  is  prejudicial,  by  overloading  the  head  of  the 
plant  with  young  shoots  and  leaves,  thus  rendering  it  liable  to  acci- 
dent from  high  winds  or  heavy  rain. 

The  principle  of  grafting,  is  bringing  the  under  or  inner  bark  of 
the  scion  in  exact  contact  with  the  bark  of  the  stock,  and  the 
nicety  of  the  operation  consists  in  fixing  these  two  barks  so  closely 
one  to  the  other,  that  the  sap  may  proceed  into  the  scion,  just  as  it 
would  have  flowed  into  the  branch  which  has  been  removed. 

There  are  several  methods  of  grafting,  but  the  two  most  com- 


110  THE    FRUIT-GARDEN. 

monly  practised  are  tongue  grafting  and  cleft  grafting.     The  foiw. 
mer  is  used  in  grafting  on  small-sized  stocks  or  branches,  and  the^" 
latter  on  large  stocks  or  branches.     If  suckers  are  grafted,  which 
is  sometimes  done,  the  tree  will  immediately  throw  up  suckers, 
and  by  no  means  become  profitable.     In  tongue  grafting,  select  a 
strong,  youna  stock,  from  three  to  four  years  old ;  cut  it  off  at 
three  or  four  inches  from  the  ground,  and  with  a  sharp,  straight 
and  narrow-bladed  knife,  cut  a  thin  strip  of  wood  and  bark  up-. 
wards,  from  about  two  inches  below  the  top  of  the  shortened  stock ; 
make  this  cut  by  one  stroke  of  the  knife,  inserting  the  edge  rather 
horizontally,  and  when  it  has  cut  through  the  bark  and'^into  the 
wood,  a  litttle  short  of  the  middle,  pull  straight  upwards;  then,  at 
less  than  half  way  down  this  cut,  and  with  the  blade  of  the  knife 
across  the  cut,  the  edge  downward,  cut  a  very  thin  tongue,  of  not 
more  than  three-eighths  of  an  inch  long. 

Proceed  nearly  in  a  similar  way  with  the  scion :  cut  first  a  nar- 
row strip  of  wood  and  bark  out,  but  do  not  put  the  knife  in  hori- 
zontally, as  you  did  with  the  stock  when  you  brought  it  out  straight 
to  the  end,  making  a  shoulder  or  angle;  make  a  sloping  cut  of 
about  the  same  length  as  the  cut  in  the  stock,  or  a  little  le°ss;  then 
make  a  tongue  to  correspond  with  that  in  the  stock,  cutting  this, 
however,  upwards  instead  of  downwards,  as  in  the  former" case; 
then  place  the  scion  upon  the  stock,  inserting  the  tongue  of  the 
scion  into  the  tongue  of  the  stock;  bring  the  four  edges  of  the 
bark,  that  is,  the  two  edges  of  the  cut  in  the  top  of  the  stock,  and 
the  two  corresponding  edges  of  the  cut  in  the  bottom  of  the  scion,*, 
to  meet  precisely.  When  you  have  fitted  the  tongue  of  the  scion 
into  that  part  of  the  stock,  you  should  not  be  able  to  perceive  the 
least  ray  of  light  penetrating  between  them.  The  two  pieces 
must  be  bound  closely  to  each  other  by  matting  or  bass.  A  single 
piece  should  be  tied  on  to  the  stock  an  inch  or  two  below  the  graft, 
and  then  wound  closely  up  till  it  reaches  the  top  of  the  stock,  and 
if  well  done,  this  is  almost  sure  to  effect  the  junction.  It  is  usual- 
to  place  a  ball  of  well-beaten  clay,  sprinkled  over  with  the  fine* 
siftings  of  cinders,  so  as  to  cover  completely  the  part  grafted,  ex-" 
tending  an  inch  above  and  below  the  parts  operated  upon  :  to  pre- 
vent this  ball  of  clay  from  being  washed  off  by  hea-v^y  rains,  tie 
round  it  a  covering  of  coarse  convass.  In  about  a  month's  time 
^e  scion  will  either  be  bursting  into  leaf,  or  be  irrecoverably  dead ; 
in  the  latter  case  remove  the  whole,  and  leave  the  stock  to  push.* 
forth  fresh  shoots  and  recover  itself.  But  if  the  scion  has  taken,' 
as  soon  as  the  stock  puts  forth  shoots,  cut  or  rub  off  all  shoots 
proceeding  from  it  below  the  graft,  or  they  will  divert  the  sap  from 
the  scion ;  then  carefully  support  the  plant  by  driving  in  a  stake 
about  three  inches  from  the  root,  long  enough  to  reach  above  the 
scion,  and  tie  it  with  a  piece  of  matting  to  prevent  its  breaking  off 
with  the  wind.  When  thus  supported,  the  plant  may  remain  till 
towards  the  end  of  June,  when  the  whole  of  the  clay  and  bandage 


THE   FRUIT-GARDEN.  11  i 

should  be  removed  by  a  careful  hand.  The  best  time  to  perform  it 
in  is  after  a  day  or  two  of  rain,  when  the  clay  is  moist,  and  readily 
separates  from  the  graft.  On  taking  off  the  clay  there  will  be 
found  a  little  sharp  angle  left  at  the  top  of  the  stock;  this  is  to  be 
cut  smoothly  off,  and  the  bark  of  the  stock  and  scion  will  heal 
over  it. 

Cleft  Grafting  is  resorted  to  when  the  stock  has  become  large, 
or  when  it  is  desired  to  graft  a  branch  or  branches  of  a  tree  which 
has  been  headed  down;  in  either  case  the  part  to  be  grafted  must 
be  sawn  cleanly  across  horizontally,  and  the  surface  pared  smooth 
with  a  sharp  long-bladed  knife,  or  else  smoothed  over  with  a  plane. 
Then  prepare  the  scion  by  cutting  it  about  an  inch  and  a  half  from 
the  bottom  into  the  form  of  the  blade  of  a  razor,  by  making  it 
sharp  on  one  side  and  leaving  it  blunt  on  the  other,  taking  care  to 
leave  the  bark  whole  on  the  blunt  side ;  then  make  a  slit  in  the 
side  of  the  crown  of  the  stock  where  it  was  sawn :  this  slit  is  to 
be  carried  downwards  for  about  two  inches,  taking  care  that  both 
sides  of  the  slit  are  perfectly  even;  hold  this  slit  open  with  a 
wedge,  and  insert  the  scion,  placing  the  sharp  edge  inwards,  and 
the  part  with  the  bark  remaining  outward,  so  that  on  taking  out 
the  wedge  the  cleft  may  close  firmly  upon  the  scion, — the  two 
edges  of  bark  formed  by  the  cleft  squeezing  exactly  upon  the  two 
edges  of  the  bark  remaining  on  the  blunt  edge  of  the  scion :  the 
only  nicety  in  this  operation  is  to  make  the  two  barks  meet  exactly, 
which  they  must  do,  as  ihe  slightest  deviation  would  defeat  the 
whole  business. 

Binding  in  this  sort  of  grafting  is  seldom  essential,  as  the  stock 
is  generally  strong  enough  to  hold  the  scion  firm  without,  and  then 
the  binding  is  better  omitted ;  but  to  exclude  the  air  from  the 
wounded  part,  cover  it  with  grafting  clay,  and  secure  the  clay  with 
a  piece  of  coarse  cloth  previously  wetted,  and  bind  it  on  securely. 
If  the  stock  be  a  strong  and  large  one,  you  may  insert  several  dif- 
ferent scions  in  the  same  head,  in  order  that  two  may  succeed ;  if 
several  take,  you  must  select  the  two  most  eligible,  as  more  than 
that  number  ought  not  to  be  encouraged.  This  operation  is  per- 
formed at  the  same  season  as  tongue-grafting,  and  the  choice  and 
treatment  of  the  scion  and  after  management  of  the  tree  are  pre- 
cisely similar. 

The  clay  proper  for  grafting  is  pure  yellow  or  blue  clay  ;  it  must 
be  beat  on  a  clean  stone,  brick  or  boarded  floor,  with  a  stout  stick, 
having  a  little  water  poured  on  it  now  and  then  to  make  it  work. 
This  process  must  be  repeated  for  two  or  three  days,  till  it  is  per- 
fectly pliable  in  the  hand.  If  the  clay  be  hard  when  put  on  the 
graft,  it  may  perhaps  unsettle  the  graft  in  squeezing  it  round  the 

f)art,  or  the  first  hot  day  would  crack  and  render  it  utterly  useless: 
et  it  be  so  loose,  that  it  may  be  readily  flattened  out  like  a  pan- 
cake about  an  inch  thick,  when  it  will  be  ready  to  wrap  round  the 
grafted  tree:  wheii  it  ia  so  placed,  a  little  wood-ashes  should  be 


112  THE    FRUIT-GARDEN. 

sprinkled  over  it  to  dry  it  and  prevent  its  cracking  with  the  heat 
of  the  sun. 

Budding  is  a  species  of  grafting-,  and  is  perfonned  for  the  same 
purpose.  The  method  usually  employed  is  that  called  the  T,  or 
shield  budding.  The  first  designation  being  taken  from  the  form 
of  the  two  cuts  that  are  made  in  the  bark,  the  second  from  the 
form  the  piece  of  hark  assumes  which  is  cut  oft',  containing  the 
bud  when  it  is  ready  to  be  inserted  within  the  stock.  Budding  is 
usually  performed  from  the  latter  end  of  July  to  the  latter  end  of 
August,  the  exact  time  being  determined  by  the  plump  appearance 
of  the  bud  formed  on  the  spring  shoot  of  the  same  year,  and  a 
readiness  in  the  bark  of  the  stock  to  separate  from  the  wood. 

For  performing  this  operation  choose  a  bud  growing  in  the  angle 
of  a  leaf  sealed  at  about  the  middle  of  a  health}^  shoot  of  the  mid- 
summer growth,  as  most  generally  inclined  to  fruitful ness ;  select 
a  cloudy  day,  or  else  perform  the  Work  either  very  early  in  the 
morning  or  in  the  evening.  Begin  b}''  cutting  off  a  branch  con- 
taining buds  proper  for  use ;  hold  the  branch  in  your  left  hand, 
with  the  thickest  end  downwards,  and  make  a  sloping  cut  from 
about  an  inch  and  a  half  below  the  bud,  to  about  an  inch  above, 
passing  the  knife  through  the  bark,  about  half  w-ay  through  the 
wood,  cutting  out  wood  and  all;  retaining  the  wood  prevents  the 
bud  from  dying  vihile  making  preparation.  If  it  is  requisite  to 
carry  buds  to  any  distance,  you  must  place  their  ends  in  water  or 
in  damp  moss,  but  either  in  budding  or  grafting  it  is  well  to  use 
as  much  expedition  as  possible,  and  particularly  so  in  budding. 
Commence  operation  by  cutting  off  the  leaf  under  which  tlse  bud 
is  seated  that  you  intend  to  use ;  leave  the  stalk  on,  and  hold  the 
stalk  between  your  lips,  while  with  the  budding-knife  you  cut  two 
straight  lines  in  the  stock  at  the  place  where  you  intend  to  insert 
the  bud,  which  should  be  on  the  side  turned  from  the  mid-day  sun, 
and  at  a  part  where  the  bark  is  smooth  and  free  from  any  bruises 
or  knots.  Make  the  first  cut  horizontally,  and  the  second  from  the 
centre  of  that  longitudinally  downwards,  thus  forming  the  Roman 
letter  T. 

You  must  now  take  out  the  piece  of  wood  which  remains  on 
the  bark  containing  the  bud ;  this  requires  care  and  a  steady  hand, 
lest  you  endanger  the  root  of  the  bud,  as  it  is  called.  If  you  per- 
form this  operation  in  the  proper  season,  the  piece  of  wood  will  be 
very  easily  detached  from  the  bark.  Hold  the  bud  upon  your  fore- 
finger and  keep  your  thumb  on  the  wood  ojiposite  :  then  with  the 
thumb  and  finger  of  the  other  hand,  bend  backward  and  forward 
the  lower  end  of  tlie  shield,  and  gently  coax  the  wood  to  quit  the 
bark,  and  when  you  find  that  it  is  doing  so,  remove  your  thumb 
from  it,  and  the  whole  piece  of  wood  will  separate,  leaving  the 
shield,  which  should  be  about  two  and  a  half  inches  long,  with  a 
bud  and  the  foot-stalk  of  a  leaf  on  it.  If  the  root  of  the  bud 
should  unfortunately  be  carried  away  with  the  piece  of  wood,  it 


THE    FRUIT-GARDEN.  113 

will  have  left  a  small  cavity  where  it  ought  to  have  been,  and  you 
must  prepare  another.  Then  open  the  two  sides  of  the  longitudi- 
nal bar  of  the  T,  with  the  ivory  haft  of  the  budding-knife,  and  in 
doing  this  raise  the  bark  cleanly  down  to  the  wood,  for  the  inside 
of  the  piece  of  bark  belonging  to  the  bud  must  be  placed  directly 
against  this  :  then  insert  the  longest  end  of  the  bark  nicely,  taking 
great  care  that  its  inner  side  lies  flatly  against  the  wood  of  the 
stock.  Then  cut  the  upper  end  of  the  bark  off  so  that  its  edge 
shall  meet  precisely  the  edge  of  the  horizontal  bar  of  the  T.  Then 
with  your  finger  and  thumb  bring  the  two  sides  of  the  lono-itudinal 
bar  over  the  bark  of  the  shield  containing  the  bud,  and  beginning 
an  inch  below  this  bar,  tie  a  piece  of  well-soaked  matting  firmly, 
and  bind  regularly  all  the  way  up  to  an  inch  above  the  horizontal 
cut,  leaving  the  bud  peeping  out.  Take  care  that  the  binding  is 
laid  on  closely  enough  to  exclude  the  air.  The  binding  should  be 
wound  round  and  round  the  stock  like  a  ribbon,  but  do  not  twist 
the  malting.  Wind  slowly,  and  at  each  circuit  pull  gently  to 
make  all  firm,  then  tie  the  end  tightly,  but  do  not  cut  the  plant. 
In  about  a  fortnight  you  will  see  if  the  bud  has  taken  by  its 
healthy  rounded  look,  and  in  another  fortnight  you  may  loosen  the 
bandage  a  little  to  allow  the  plant  to  swell,  and  in  another  week 
you  may  entirely  remove  it.  Let  the  plant  remain  thus  till  the 
spring,  and  then  when  the  sap  begins  to  rise,  head  down  the  stock 
at  about  half  an  inch  above  the  bud,  beginning  behind  it  and 
making  a  sloping  cut  upwards  to  end  above  its  point.  If  the  tree 
is  exposed  to  high  winds,  a  stick  may  be  tied  on  the  top  part  of 
the  stock,  to  tie  the  first  summer  shoot  to,  in  order  to  prevent  its 
being  broken  off  by  the  wind.  Budding  has  several  advantages 
over  grafting :  it  is  not  only  more  applicable  to  the  whole  race  of 
stoned  fruits,  as  observed  before,  but  it  may  be  performed  in  July, 
when  the  grafting  has  failed  in  March  or  April.  Stone  fruits, 
which  have  been  budded,  are  less  given  to  gum  than  when  grafted, 
and  gumming  is  often  very  detrimental.  You  may  also  put  two 
or  more  branches  upon  a  stock  by  budding,  that  would  be  too  weak 
to  take  more  than  one  by  grafting.  The  only  disadvantage  attend- 
ant on  budding,  is  that  the  trees  are  a  year  longer  in  coming  to 
bear  bj'^  this  process  than  by  grafting. 

Inarching,  or  Grafting  by  approach,  is  used  only  for  particu- 
lar trees  that  do  not  propagate  freely  by  any  other  method.  It  is 
mostly  practised  on  exotic  plants,  and  is  performed  in  various 
ways,  according  to  the  kind  or  condition  of  the  plant  operated 
upon.  It  is  usually  performed  by  cutting  similar  slices  of  bark 
and  wood  off  both  stock  and  graft,  applying  one  to  the  other,  and 
then  bindino-  them  neatly  together.  A  very  simple  method  of  ap- 
proach-grafting has  lately  been  practised  with  much  success  :  the 
scion  to  be  inserted  on  a  stock,  is  cut  entirely  ofl'  the  parent  tree, 
and  is  attached  by  its  middle  to  a  part  of  the  stock  of  similar 
diameter,  and  then  tied  and  clayed ;  the  base  of  the  graft  hanging 
10* 


114  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN. 

below^  is  let  into  a  small  phial  of  water,  whence  the  scion  draws 
nutriment  till  the  junction  is  complete,  which  will  require  about 
two  months ;  the  graft  is  then  to  be  separated  from  the  mother 
plant  with  a  perfectly  sharp  knife,  cutting  off  the  ingrafted  branch 
with  a  slope  downwards  to  the  stock,  and  if  not  done  in  grafting, - 
the  head  of  the  stock  must  now  be  cut  close  to  the  graft.     The' 
old  clay  and  bandage  are  now  to  be  taken  off,  but  at  the  same  time 
it  would  be  advisable  to  tie  them  again,  gently  putting  on  some 
fresh  clay,  which  may  remain  for  a  month  or  five  weeks.     In  this 
method  of  grafting,  the  stocks  may  be  both  in  the  ground  or  in  - 
pots ;  the  latter  is  necessary  when  the  branches  of  the  trees  yoii 
would  inarch  are  not  near  enough  the  ground,  or  for  the  orange" 
and  other  green-house  trees  and  shrubs.     Double  camellias,  and 
such  plants  are  readily  increased  by  inarching ;  the  single  species 
are  used  as  stocks,  and  they  are  placed  round  the  sort  to  be 
worked. 

Root  Grafting  is  only  resorted  to  when  there  is  a  want  of  suit- 
able stocks,  particularly  in  the  propagation  of  rare  plants.     From-*' 
such  an  one  a  root  may  sometimes  be  spared,  to  which  one  of  its 
own  shoots  may  be  united  without  injury  to  the  original,  and  tlius 
two  trees  be  obtained. 


THE    END. 


INDEX. 


A 

Ants,  destruction  of . . . .  64 

Aphides,  destruction  of.  65 

Apple-trees 77 

—  Bellflower . ; .. ',  .y^> .  83 

—  Bough  . ; 81 

—  Carthouse 85 

—  Codling 82 

—  Cumberland  Spice  . .  84 

—  Early  Summer  Pear- 

main  82 

—  Esopus  Spitzemberg.  83 

—  Fall,  or  Holland  Pip-  82 

pin 82 

—  Kaighn's       Spitzem- 

berg    84 

—  Pomme  D'Apis 83 

—  Summer  Queen  ....  61 

—  Summer  Rose 81 

—  Tewksbury     Winter 

Blush 85 

—  Newtown  Pippin  ...  84 

—  Maiden's  Blush 82 

—  White  Sweeting 83 

—  Wine 83 

—  Winesap 84 

Apples,  to  preserve. ...  81 


Apricot 85 

Artichoke 17 

—  Jerusalem 18 

Asparagus 18 

B 

Balm 58 

Barbary 88 

Bazil,  Sweet 58 

Beans 19 

—  Broad  Windsor  ....  19 

—  Carolina 21 

—  Early  Long  Pod 19 

—  Kidney 20 

—  Lima 20 

—  Mazagan 19 

—  Scarlet  Runners ....  20 

Beets 21 

Black  Grub,  destruction 

of 65 

Borage 58 

Borecole 21 

Broccoli 21 

Brussels  Sprouts 22 

Budding 112 

C 

Cabbages  . .  .^^^ 22 

Camomile  .  -. ; 58- 

(115) 


Grafting 


116  INDEX. 

Capsicum 24 

Carrots 24 

Caterpillars,   destruction 

of 65 

Cauliflower 25 

Celery 26 

Cherries 88 

Chestnut 90 

Chives 27 

Cleft  grafting Ill 

Colewort 61 

Corn,  Indian 27 

Corn  Salad 28 

Cress.-,.... 28 

Cucumbers  . ', . « .-, , ,. .  28 

Currants  .....  ^  V'« ',-, . .  90 

D 

Dill 59 

E 

Egg-plant 30 

Endive. 31 

Eschalots 31 

Espalier  training 79 

F 

Fennel 59 

Fig-tree 91 

Filberts 92 

Fly,  Turnip,  destruction 

of 64 

Fruit-garden 77 

G 

Garden,  aspect  of  a  . . .  14 


Garden,  situation  of  a. 
Gooseberry 


—  by  approach, 

—  Root 

Grape-Vine  . . 


H 


Horse-radish 
Hyssop  . . . . 


14 
92 
109 
113 
114 
105 


32 
59 


I 
Inarching 113 

K 
Kitchen  Garden,  month- 
ly operations  in  . . . 

—  January  

—  February 

—  March 

—  April 

—  May 

—  June 

—  July 

—  August 

—  September 

—  October  and  Novem- 
ber   

—  December 


Lavender 
Leeks  . . . 
Lettuce  .  . 
—  lamb's 


67 

67 

67 

67 

69 

70 

71 

7^ 

73 

73 

74 
75 


59 
32 
32 

28 


INDEX. 


117 


Liquorice 59 

Love  Apple 56 

M 

Manures,  variety  and  pro- 
perties of 15 

Marigold 60 

Marjoram 60 

Medlars 93 

Melons 33 

Mice,  destruction  of  . . .  66 

Mint 60 

Mulberry 93 

Mushrooms 42 

Mustard 44 

N 

Nasturtium 45 

Nectarine 94 

O 
Observations,  Prelimina- 
ry    13 

Okra 46 

Onions 45 

Oyster  Plant 53 

P 

Parsley 47 

Parsneps 46 

Peaches 94 

Pears 96 

—  Bensell's  Winter 101 

—  Bon  Chretien 101 

—  Crasanne 101 

—  Early  Catharine. ...  98 


—  Early  Summer  Ber- 

gamot 99 

—  Fin,  or  D'Ete 99 

—  Holland 100 

—  Julienne 99 

—  L'Echasserie 101 

—  Madeline 99 

—  Muscat 101 

—  Musk 99 

—  Seckie 99 

—  Yellow  Butter 100 

Peas 47 

Penny  Royal 61 

Plantingr 80 

Plums 102 

Potatos   50 

Pruning 77 

Pumpkin 51 

Q 

Quinces 103 

R 

Radishes 51 

Rampion 61 

Rape 61 

Raspberry 103 

Rhubarb  .  .  .  ,VvVX  ...  52 
Rookworm,    destruction 

of 67 

Rosemary 61 

Rue 62 


S 


Sage 


02 


318 


INDEX. 


Salsafy 53 

Savory 62 

Sea  Kale 53 

Slugs,  destruction  of. . .  66 

Snails,  destruction  of. .  66 

Sorrel 62 

Spinach 55 

Squash 55 

Strawberries 104 

T 

Tarragon 62 

Thyme 62 

Tomato 66 


Transplanting 80 

Turnips 56 

Turnip  or  Cabbage  Fly, 

destruction  of 64 

V 

Vegetables,  cultivation  of 

Kitchen 17 

Vermin  injurious  to  culi- 
nary crops,  destruc- 
tion of 64 

W 

Walnuts   108 

Wormwood 63 


THE 


COMPLETE  FLORIST: 


A 

MANUAL  OF  GARDENING, 

CONTAINING 

PRACTICAL  INSTRUCTION 

FOR   THE   MANAGEMENT    OP 

GREENHOUSE   PLANTS, 

AND    FOR   THE    CULTIVATION  OP 

THE  SHRUBBERY,  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN, 
AND  THE  LAWN. 

WITH    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    THOSE 

PLANTS  AND  TREES  MOST  WORTHY  OF  CULTURE, 
IN  EACH  DEPARTMENT. 


WITH  ADDITIONS  AND  AMENDMENTS, 

ADAPTED    TO    THE    CLIMATE    OF    THE    UNITED    STATES. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

LEA    AND    BLANCHARD. 

1844. 


Entered,  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1844,  by 

LEA   AND    B  L  A  N  C  H  A  R  D  , 

in  the  cleric's  office  of  the  district  court  of  the  United  States  in  and  for 
the  eastern  district  of  Pennsylvania. 


J.  Fagan,  Stereotyper. 
J.  &  W.  Kite,  Printers. 


PUBLISHERS'  NOTICE. 

The  English  work  from  which  this  has  been 
compiled,  was  placed  in  the  hands  of  one  of 
our  most  experienced  gardeners  for  revision  and 
alteration,  to  suit  the  climate  of  the  United 
States.  It  has,  however,  come  out  of  his  able 
hands  almost  a  new  work ;  and  will,  it  is  pre- 
sumed, from  its  value  and  very  low  price, 
increase  the  growing  taste  for  the  culture  and 
management  of  ornamental  flowers  and  shrubs. 

This  volume  will  be  followed  by  a  work  on 
the  same  plan,  and  by  the  same  competent 
hand,  adapted  to  Fruit  and  Kitchen  Gar- 
dening. 

Philadelphia,  March,  1844. 


(3) 


INTRODUCTION 

TO    THE 

AMERICAN   EDITION. 


It  will  scarcely  be  questioned,  that  whilst  we,  as  a  people, 
have  greatly  advanced  in  most  of  the  pursuits  which  add  to  our 
physical  and  intellectual  enjoyments,  that  a  relish  for  Horticulture 
(of  much  importance  if  considered  with  reference  to  the  gratifi- 
cation of  the  mind)  has  not  increased  in  a  ratio  with  that  for  other 
branches  of  art.  Without  referring  to  music,  painting,  or  more 
particularly  to  many  of  the  sources  of  enjoyment,  which  have 
extended  and  improved  with  the  progress  of  our  country,  let  us 
confine  our  comparison  to  architecture,  with  which  refined  taste 
has  intimately  connected  two  departments  of  gardening,  namely: 
Horticulture  and  Arboriculture. 

In  architecture,  the  improvement  has  become  so  general  and 
extended,  that  as  a  natural  result,  the  desire  for  not  only  conve- 
nient and  comfortable,  but  handsome  habitations,  is  no  longer 
confined  to  the  more  wealthy  classes,  but  enters  into  the  wants 
of  the  great  mass  of  the  community. 

The  plain,  unpretending  tenements,  which  filled  the  entire 
wish,  in  that  particular,  of  former  generations,  are  now  only 
erected  on  the  outskirts  of  our  cities,  or  stand  within  as  monu- 
ments of  the  simplicity  of  by-gone  days.  The  stately  mansion 
now  rears  its  head,  proud  evidence  of  the  result  of  successful 
industry,  but  in  too  many  instances  of  that  alone,  for  paradoxical 
as  it  may  seem,  the  individual  who  will  expend  tens  of  thousands 
on  his  hoiise  and  furniture,  neglects  the  decoration  of  his  garden, 
if  indeed  the  desire  to  build  in  a  fashionable  neighbourhood  has 
not  rendered  that  intellectual  appendage  to  a  residence,  out  of  the 
question.  Have  we  not  seen  houses  of  the  most  costly  character, 
placed  in  such  confined  positions,  from  a  morbid  desire  to  be  con- 
spicuous, that  the  extent  of  garden  ground  scarcely  afforded  rooni 

1-  [,] 


Vi  INTRODUCTION   TO 

for  a  rose-bud  to  expand  its  petals !  These  remarks  are  made 
with  no  disposition,  other  than  to  exhibit  the  fact  stated  in  the 
commencement  of  this  article,  and  to  call  attention  to  a  palpable 
error  in  the  construction  of  city  residences;  for  without  trees, 
shrubbery  and  flowers,  architectural  designs,  however  beautiful, 
are  but  half  developed. 

But,  whilst  we  are  criticising  the  inability  to  enjoy  the  charms 
of  nature,  as  evinced  by  tiiose  who  thus,  of  choice,  live  "cab- 
ined, cribbed,  confined,"  as  if  the  only  use  of  ground  were  to 
cover  with  brick  and  mortar;  when,  frequently  at  less  expense, 
they  could  enjoy  more  ample  space,  with  the  delights  of  a  subur- 
ban garden,  let  us  do  justice  to  those  who  have  exhibited  for  our 
pleasure,  and  as  an  incentive  to  follow  their  example,  the  beau- 
ties which  they  have  contributed  to  create.  And  here  we  will 
take  occasion  to  remark,  that  in  addition  "  to  the  benefits  expe- 
rienced by  breathing  air  unconfined  by  the  close  streets,  and  un- 
contaminated  by  the  smoke  of  chimneys,  the  cheerful  aspect  of 
vegetation,  the  singing  of  birds  in  their  season,  and  the  enliven- 
ing effect  of  finding  ourselves  unpent-up  by  buildings,"  is  a  further 
consideration  of  some  moment,  to  persons  whose  means  admit 
of  the  enjoyment  of  a  suburban  residence  5  to  quote  the  language 
of  Mr.  Loudon,  "the  great  advantages  which  would  result  from 
bringing  up  children  with  a  taste  for  garden  pursuits  and  natural 
history,  and  the  vast  influence  which  this  is  calculated  to  have 
on  their  future  happiness  and  the  welfare  of  society,  by  enabling 
them,  instead  of  passing  their  leisure  hours  in  a  degrading  man- 
ner, to  interest  themselves  in  recreations  both  agreeable  and  use- 
ful. There  is  a  great  deal  of  enjoyment  to  be  derived  from  per- 
forming the  different  operations  of  gardening,  independently 
altogether  of  the  health  resulting  from  this  kind  of  exercise.  To 
labour  for  the  sake  of  arriving  at  a  result,  and  to  be  successful  in 
attaining  it,  are,  as  cause  and  effect,  attended  by  a  certain  degree 
of  satisfaction  to  the  mind,  however  simple  or  rude  the  labour 
may  be,  and  however  unimportant  the  result  obtained.  To  be 
convinced  of  this,  we  have  only  to  imagine  ourselves  employed  in 
any  labour  from  which  no  results  ensue  but  that  of  fatiguing  the 
body  or  wearying  the  mind ;  the  turning  of  a  wheel,  for  example, 
that  is  connected  with  no  machinery,  or,  if  connected,  effects  no 


THE   AMERICAN   EDITION.  Vli 

uiseful  purpose ;  the  carrying  of  a  weight  from  one  point  to  an- 
other and  back  again ;  or  the  taking  of  a  walk  without  any  object 
in  view  but  the  negative  one  of  preserving  health.  Thus,  it  is 
not  only  a  condition  of  our  nature  that,  in  order  to  secure  health 
and  cheerfulness,  we  must  labour,  but  we  must  also  labour  in 
such  a  way  as  to  produce  something  useful  or  agreeable.  Now, 
of  the  different  kinds  of  useful  things  produced  by  labour,  those 
things  surely,  which  are  living  beings,  and  which  grow  and 
undergo  changes  before  our  eyes,  must  be  more  productive  of 
enjoyment  than  such  as  are  mere  brute  matters,  the  kind  of 
labour  and  other  circumstances  being  the  same.  Hence,  a  man 
who  plants  a  hedge  or  sows  a  grass  plot  in  his  garden,  lays  a  more 
certain  foundation  for  enjoyment  than  he  who  builds  a  wall,  or 
lays  down  a  gravel  walk;  and  hence  the  enjoyment  of  a  citizen 
whose  recreation,  at  his  suburban  residence,  consists  in  working 
in  his  garden,  must  be  higher  in  the  scale  than  that  of  him  who 
amuses  himself  in  the  plot  round  his  house,  with  shooting  at  a 
mark  or  playing  at  bowls. 

"One  of  the  greatest  of  all  the  sources  of  enjoyment  resulting 
from  the  possession  of  a  garden,  is  the  endless  variety  it  produces, 
either  by  the  perpetual  progress  of  vegetation,  which  is  going 
forward  in  it  to  maturity,  dormancy  or  decay,  or  by  the  almost 
innumerable  kinds  of  plants  which  may  be  raised  in  even  the 
smallest  garden.  Even  the  same  trees,  grown  in  the  same 
garden,  are  undergoing  perpetual  changes  throughout  the  year; 
and  trees  change,  also,  in  every  succeeding  year,  relatively  to 
that  which  is  past,  because  they  become  larger  and  larger  as  they 
advance  in  age,  and  acquire  more  of  their  characteristic  and 
mature  forms.  The  number  of  plants,  and  especially  of  trees, 
which  can  be  cultivated  in  a  suburban  garden  at  one  time,  is 
necessarily  circumscribed ;  but  if  a  suburban  amateur  chose  to 
limit  the  period,  during  which  he  cultivated  each  tree  or  plant, 
to  the  time  of  its  flowering  with  him  for  the  first  time,  he  might 
in  the  course  of  a  few  years,  more  or  less  in  number  according  to 
the  size  of  his  garden,  have  had  growing  in  it  all  the  plants  in 
cultivation  in  the  open  air  in  Britain,  with  the  exception  of  a 
few  of  the  larger  of  the  forest  trees ;  and  even  these  he  might 
also  have  flowered  by  making  use  of  plants  raised  from  cuttings 


VIU  INTRODUCTION  TO 

or  layers,  or  of  miniature  trees  made  by  ringing  and  rooting  the 
branches  of  old  trees  in  the  Chinese  manner.  (Such  come  early 
to  maturity.) 

"Independently,  however,  of  the  variety  and  change  resulting 
from  the  plants  cultivated,  every  month  throughout  the  year  has 
its  particular  operations  and  its  products;  nay,  it  would  not  be 
too  much  to  say  that  during  six  months  of  the  year,  a  change 
takes  place,  and  is  perceptible  in  the  plants  z\  a  garden,  every 
day ;  and  every  day  has,  in  consequence,  its  operations  and  its 
products.  Even  in  winter  there  is  still  something  to  do  in  a 
garden,  however  small  may  be  its  extent;  the  walks  require  to 
be  kept  in  order,  and  some  plants  must  be  protected  by  litter  or 
matting.  These  are  a  lew  of  the  absolute  enjoyments  to  be 
derived  from  a  suburban  house  and  garden ;  and  we  shall  next 
notice  another  which  flows  from  the  same  source,  but  which  may 
be  called  relative  or  incidental.  The  opportimity  which  a  garden 
affords  to  its  possessor  of  acquiring  a  scientific  and  practical 
knowledge  of  plants  is  a  source  of  great  interest,  not  only  in  his 
own  garden,  but  wherever  else  plants  may  come  in  his  way, 
whether  in  a  wild  state,  in  gardens,  exposed  for  sale  in  the 
markets,  or  delineated  and  described  in  books.  Another  source 
of  incidental  enjoyment  is  that  which  will  arise  from  the  acquire- 
ment of  some  knowledge  of  gardening,  and  of  rural  architec- 
ture, as  an  art  of  design  and  taste." 

The  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society  has  done  much 
in  our  own  vicinity  towards  forming  a  capacity  for  the  enjoy- 
ment of  natural  beauty,  and  to  infuse  into  all  classes  of  our  citi- 
zens, a  just  appreciation  of  one  source  of  pleasure  within  their 
reach;  a  pleasure  which,  unlike  many  others,  costs  so  little  as  to 
be,  in  some  form,  within  the  means  of  ail,  and  whilst  it  does  not 
impair  the  purse,  improves  the  health,  cheers  the  mind,  and,  by 
making  home  agreeable  unites  the  family  circle. 

There  are  few  surer  indexes  to  the  character  of  the  inmates  of 
a  dwelling,  than  the  presence  of  plants,  and  a  few  simple  flowers 
modestly  placed  upon  the  window  ledge,  that  whilst  they  derive 
benefit  from  the  light  and  air,  all  may  participate  in  the  pleasure 
they  impart,  bear  evidence,  in  some  degree,  of  the  contentment, 
not  to  say  refinement,  which  exists  within.     Those  who  can  only 


THE   AMERICAN   EDITION.  JX 

derive  enjoyment  from  excitement,  and  the  glare  of  wealth,  may 
smile  at  this  conceit,  but  to  us  it  is  as  sure  an  evidence  of  a  re- 
fined  mind,  as  the  exquisite  texture  of  the  hangings,  or  the  mir- 
ror-like purity  of  the  glass. 

It  is  gratifying  to  be  able  to  say  that  Philadelphia  leads  in  hor- 
ticultural  taste;  none  can  witness  the  display  of  rare  and  beauti- 
ful  garden  products,  at  the  monthly  and  annual  exhibitions  of  the 
P.  H.  Society,  and  the  thousands  of  delighted  visiters,  without 
conviction  that,  though  much  remains  to  be  done,  much,  very 
much,  has  been  accomplished ;  whether  this  perception  of  floral 
beauty,  which  exists  among  us,  has  been  formed  in  a  measure 
by  the  facility  with  which  it  may  be  gratified,  or  that  that  capa- 
city has  created  the  ample  means  for  its  enjoyment,  admits  of 
question;  perhaps  they  have  mutually  reacted;  certain  however 
it  is  that  the  well-kept  private  gardens,  and  choice  collection  of 
plants,  in  and  around  the  city,  are  very  numerous,  and  on  the 
increase. 

Philadelphia,  may  emphatically  be  termed  the  Plant  Mart  of 
the  Union,  for  within  the  bounds  of  the  county  are  accumulated, 
there*  can  be  no  doubt,  a  greater  number  and  variety  of  plants,' 
for  sale,  than  can  be  found  in  any  other  spot  in  America;  and  it  ig 
the  source  from  which  much  of  the  distant  demand  is  supplied. 
Two  of  the  oldest  Nursery  establishments  in  the  Union,  Bar- 
tram's  Botanic  Garden  and  the  Landreth  Nurseries',  exist 
in  its  vicinity,  and  a  multitude  of  young  and  thriving  establish- 
ments, mainly  devoted  to  the  culture  of  exotics,  have  been  formed 
within  the  last  ten  or  fifteen  years. 

If  this  little  work,  unpretending  as  it  is,  shall  have  the  efl'ect 
to  extend  a  taste  for  horticulture,  or  induce  reflection  on  the 
pleasure  its  pursuit  may  give,  a  leading  object  in  its  republication 
in  this  country,  will  have  been  accomplished. 

Philadelphia,  March,  1844. 


ADVERTISEMENT 

TO 

THE  ENGLISH  EDITION. 


The  cultivation  of  the  Flower  Garden  is  frequently  not 
only  an  expensive  but  a  disappointing  pursuit,  from  the  pos- 
sessor  of  a  garden  not  knowing  any  thing  of  the  nature  or 
habits  of  the  flowers  he  wishes  to  rear.  In  this  little  work, 
all  the  information  necessary  for  the  rearing  any  flower  that 
will  come  to  perfection  in  the  open  ground,  in  this  country, 
is  plainly  and  concisely  given. 

The  mode  of  treatment  of  plants  in  pots,  those  pets  of 
the  parlour-window,  is  particularly  attended  to;  and  those 
flowers  which  are  best  fitted  for  this  mode  of  cultivation  are 
pointed  out,  and  the  method  of  preserving  them  through  the 
winter,  and  of  increasing  or  rearing  them,  is  detailed''  in  a 
manner  so  plain,  that  an  unprofessional  person  need  not 
fear  of  success. 

Plants  requiring  much  or  little  water,  much  or  little  light, 
are  distinguished  ;  what  kind,  if  any,  protection  is  called\r 
m  winter ;  and  when,  or  how,  seeds  are  to  be  sown,  or  other 
means  of  propagation  be  resorted  to,  is  familiarly  detailed. 
Thus  forming,  on  the  whole,  a  work  that  will  enable  any 
one  possessing  a  Flower  Garden,  sucr-essfully  to  become  his 
own  Gardenp" 


[11] 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    I. 

Introductory  Observations 13 

Laying  out  the  Garden 13 

Gravel  Walks  and  Edgings   14 

On  Planting   15 

On  Transplanting  Trees  and  Shrubs 16 

Growth  of  Plants    17 

Manure 18 

Bulbs  in  Water-glasses 19 

CH  APTE  B    II  . 

The  Conservatory 20 

The  Green-house   21 

The  Cold  Pit    21 

The  Plant  Verandah    22 

CHA  PTEK    III  . 

Hardy  Ornamental  Shrubs 43 

CHAPTER    IV. 

Hardy  Deciduous  Trees   59 

CHAPTER    V. 

Hardy  Evergreen  Trees 68 

C  HAPTE  R    VI. 

Hardy  Vines  and  Creepers 73 

CHAPTER    VII. 

Herbaceous  Bulbous  and  Tuberous-rooted  Flowers  . .  76 

CHAPTER    VIII. 

Annual,  Biennial  and  Perennial  Flowers 96 

(xii) 


THE 

MANUAL  OF  GAEDENING. 

CHAPTER  I. 

A  LOVE  of  flowers  is  one  of  the  earliest  of  our  tastes,  and  cer- 
tainly one  of  the  most  innocent.  The  cultivation  of  flowers, 
while  it  forms  an  eleg-ant  amusement,  is  a  most  healthy  and  invi- 
gorating pursuit.  Unlike  hunting",  fishing,  shooting,  or  similar 
rural  amusements,  it  inflicts  no  suffering  on  any  of  the  animal 
creation,  and  merely  aids  nature  in  her  efforts  to  make  the  world 
beautiful  to  the  eye,  as  the  fruits  are  pleasant  to  the  taste.  The 
flowt-r  garden,  while  it  agreeably  occupies  the  time,  does  not 
impose  a  heavy  tax  upon  the  pocket;  and  there  are  very  few 
flowers  but  what  may  be  cultivated  to  as  great  perfection  in  the 
garden  of  the  peasant,  as  of  the  peer.  It  is  a  taste,  too,  which  is 
well  adapted  to  the  female  character,  and  affords  much  rational 
amusement  to  the  recluse,  who  by  choice  or  chance  is  separated 
"from  the  crowded  haunts  of  men,  in  busy  cities  pent."  The 
pleasure  of  the  cultivator  of  flowers  is  not  confined  to  the  gratifi- 
cation of.  beholding  the  expanded  flower,  when  it  spreads  forth 
its  glories  to  the  meridian  sun;  every  stage  of  its  growth  has 
been  a  source  of  delight,  from  the  moment  the  seedling  but  peeped 
above  the  ground,  to  the  period  of  its  perfect  development;  and 
a  flower  which  has  been  reared  by  one's  own  hand,  is  viewed 
with  tenfold  delight,  compared  to  one,  the  growth  of  which  has 
not  been  witnessed  or  provided  for. 

LAYING  OUT  THE  GARDEN.— A  garden  is  an  artificial 
appendage  to  an  artificial  object.  A  flower  is  not  a  production 
of  unaided  nature,  nor  can  a  garden  ever  be  supposed  to  have 
sprung  up  spontaneously  :  therefore  all  that  has  been  said  against 
straight  walks  and  square  beds,  can  only  prove  that  a  garden 
may  be  too  precisely  laid  out,  and  never  demonstrate  that  it 
should  assume  the  appearance  of  a  wood,  or  a  wilderness.  Cir- 
cles, squares,  ovals  and  angles,  are  all  pleasing  figures,  and  are 
all  strictly  appropriate  to  the  flower  garden,  which  is  a  spot 
where  art  and  taste  unite  to  display  to  advantage  the  charms  of 
nature, 

2  (13) 


14  THE   MANUAL   OP  GARDENING. 

The  art  of  gardening,  indeed,  like  painting,  or  any  of  the  fine 
arts,  requires  that  the  imitation  of  nature  should  not  be  too  close ; 
for  a  flower  gardener,  who  should  imitate  nature  so  exactly  as  to 
allow  the  grass  and  weeds  to  spring  up,  in  all  their  pristine  luxu- 
riance, among  his  choice  flowers,  would  not  produce  a  beautiful 
result,  but  would  disgust  by  his  slovenliness,  while  he  meant  to 
charm  by  his  inartificiality.  Mr.  Wyndham,  when  speaking  of 
flower  gardens,  observes,  very  justly,  that  "  places  are  not  to  be 
laid  out  with  a  view  to  their  appearance  in  a  picture,  but  to  their 
use,  and  the  enjoyment  of  them  in  real  life;  and  their  conformity 
to  these  purposes  is  what  constitutes  their  true  beauty.  With 
this  view,  gravel  walks,  neatly-mown  lawns,  and,  in  some  situa- 
tions, straight  alleys,  fountains,  terraces,  and,  for  aught  1  know, 
parterres  and  cut  hedges,  are  in  perfect  good  taste." 

After  all,  the  mode  or  manner  of  laying  out  a  garden  must 
always  remain  a  matter  of  individual  taste:  which  taste  will 
generally  be  more  or  less  modified  by  the  prevailing  fashion  of 
the  day,  and  the  circumstances  connected  with  the  situation  in 
which  the  garden  may  be  placed. 

GRAVEL  WALKS,  and  EDGINGS,  are  the  best,  and  indeed 
only,  proper  divisions  of  the  flower  garden. 

Box  is  perhaps  dear  at  first,  but  it  is  eventually  the  cheapest 
as  well  as  the  best  border  you  can  have,  being  undoubtedly  the 
prettiest  thing  for  the  purpose.  It  may  be  kept  to  any  width  or 
height;  it  has  great  durability,  and  thrives  in  all  sorts  of  soils, 
though  much  the  best  in  dry,  and  under  all  aspects.  This  plant 
is  of  very  easy  propagation. 

The  planting  Box  requires  some  care ;  the  edging  of  Box  ought 
to  be  put  in  immediately  after  the  gravel  walks  are  formed. 
These  walks,  to  be  kept  in  good  order,  should  be  broken  up  once 
a  year,  about  the  middle  of  May :  they  must  be  broken  up  with 
a  pickaxe,  raked,  and  carefully  rolled,  and  then  little  or  no  grass 
will  shoot;  what  does,  must  be  immediately  removed.  The 
comfort  of  dry  walks  will  greatly,  and  in  heavy  land  altogether, 
depend  on  the  foundation  on  which  the  gravel  rests.  Unless 
they  are  so  graded  as  to  discharge  the  water  beyond  the  garden 
bounds,  and  filled  in,  previously  to  putting  on  the  gravel,  with 
twelve  inches,  more  or  less,  of  brick-rubbish,  broken  stones,  or 
similar  substances,  it  will  be  vain  to  expect  dry,  comfortable 
walks.  If  well-constructed,  they  may  be  used  immediately  after 
a  shower,  when  the  garden  is  to  many  persons  the  most  attract- 
ive. Where  gravel  cannot  readily  be  procured,  tanners'  bark, 
laid  on  a  substantial  foundation,  makes  a  soft  and  agreeable 
walk,  easily  kept  clean,  as  weeds  do  not  grow  in  it.  It  cannot 
be  necessary  to  enter  into  detailed  directions  for  the  construction 
of  a  garden  walk,  as  the  judgment  of  most  persons  is  amply  sufii- 
cient,  without  experience,  to  adopt  the  proper  course.     Where 


THE   MANUAL   OF  GARDENING.  15 

the  work  is  to  be  done  on  a  large  scale,  as  in  the  construction  of 
new  gardens,  laying  out  roads  through  pleasure  ground.-',  &.C., 
the  proprietor  will  usually  find  it  his  interest  to  submit  the  direc- 
tion to  a  practical  gardener ;  or,  if  he  choose  to  superintend  the 
work,  from  partiality  for  such  occupations,  will  avail  himself  of 
the  aid  of  those  competent  to  advise. 

Buxus  SEMPERViREXS,  the  common  dwarf  Box,  is  the  variety 
used  for  edging  walks,  and  is  certainly  better  adapted  to  that 
purpose  than  any  other  plant.  When  the  gravel  walk  is  made, 
the  mould  must  be  carefully  dug  away  close  to  the  gravel — leave 
no  mould  between  the  Box  and  the  gravel;  a  trench  must  then 
be  made  nearly  a  foot  deep,  the  roots  of  the  Bix  must  be  parted, 
and  the  redundant  part  cut  off;  the  Box  is  now  to  be  placed 
evenly  against  the  gravel — a  line  must  be  used;  a  thin  edging 
only  is  requisite,  as  Box  increases  very  fast.  The  mould  must 
now  be  trodden  down  close  to  the  Box,  and  the  top  clipped  all  to 
one  height.  If  the  weather  be  dry,  it  must  be  carefully  watered. 
The  edging  should  stand  about  four  inches  high ;  the  earth  in 
the  border  or  beds  must  be  kept  back  from  smothering  it  during 
the  first  year.  The  best  time  to  plant  Box  is  April,  or  mid-sum- 
mer, choosing  showery  weather — if  not  sufficient  moisture  from 
the  clouds,  water  freely.  It  may  be  clipped  early  in  the  spring, 
and  be  replanted  when  it  has  become  overgrown,  or  an  increased 
.supply  is  required  for  edging. 

Thrift,  if  neatly  planted,  makes  pretty  edgings  to  borders  or 
flower  beds,  both  as  an  evergreen  and  flowering  plant,  particu- 
larly the  scarlet,  which  makes  a  beautiful  appearance  in  summer. 
It  should  be  planted  in  the  early  spring  months,  and  kept  wa- 
tered. It  increases  very  fast,  is  cheaper  than  Box,  and  very 
hardy. 

The  edgings  of  Thrift  should  be  trimmed  a  little  in  July  or 
August,  when  it  is  out  of  flower,  cutting  off  all  the  flower  heads; 
where  the  sides  have  grown  uneven,  let  them  be  cut  into  order, 
either  with  the  shears,  or,  if  too  much  overgrown,  with  a  short 
edging-iron. 

Where  utility  is  the  principal  consideration,  the  edgings  may 
be  of  strawberry  vines,  carefully  restrained,  and  renewed  every 
two  or  three  years, thus  yielding  fruit  large  and  of  fine  quality; 
also  of  thyme,  sweet  herbs,  &c. 

ON  PLANTING. — When  the  garden  is  laid  out  according  to 
the  taste  of  its  proprietor,  the  next  thing  to  be  attended  to  is  the 
planting.  In  doing  this,  either  in  beds  or  borders,  it  is  necessary 
carefully  to  attend  to  the  height  and  colour  of  each  particular 
plant,  as  much  of  their  beauty  will  be  lost,  except  care  is  taken 
to  hfiighten  their  effect  by  contrast.  The  smaller  plants  should 
be  disposed  in  clusters  near  the  edge  of  the  bed  or  border,  and 


16  THE   MANDAL    OF   GARDEiJING. 

those  of  increasinnr  size  placed  behind,  in  succession,  till  the  tall 
ones  reach  the  centre  of  the  bed,  or  the  back  of  the  border.  In 
narrow  border?,  which  will  not  admit  of  more  than  one  or  two 
rows  of  plants,  either  singly  or  in  eroup?,  plants  of  different 
heights  may  be  grown  alternately,  taking  care  that  they  do  not 
overB^hadow  or  hide  the  smaller  ones.  Great  care  must  be  had, 
in  selecting  plants,  to  secure  a  succession  of  flowers.  In  small 
gardens,  particularl}'-,  it  is  necessary  to  attend  carefully  to  the 
variety  of  colours,  heights  of  plants,  and  their  time  of  blowing ; 
or,  when  the  plants  come  to  maturity,  they  will  produce  any- 
thing rather  than  a  pleasing  effect:  but  with  due  attention,  there 
is  little  or  no  diffiiculty  in  keeping  a  constant  supply — so  that,  for 
the  greater  part  of  the  year,  something  pretty  or  showy  may  be 
found.  In  our  description  of  shrubs  and  flowers,  the  height,  co- 
lour and  time  of  blowing  are  noted,  in  order  that  attention  may 
be  paid  to  these  particulars. 

ON  TRANSPLANTING  TREES  AND  SHRUBS.— Sue- 
cess  in  transplanting  depends  in  a  great  degree  on  the  skill  and 
care  with  which  that  operation  is  performed;  for,  unless  it  be 
done  in  a  workman-like  manner,  it  had  better  be  left  undone,  as 
in  that  case  we  should  escape  the  pain  and  regret  of  seeing  our 
labour  yield  the  fruit  of  disappointment.  In  many,  very  many, 
cases,  where  trees  and  plants  die  on  being  transplanted,  it  is 
probable,  if  we  could,  Asmodeus  like,  pry  into  all  the  circum- 
stances which  attended  the  removal,  we  should  find  that  the 
plainest  dictates  of  reason,  to  say  nothing  of  the  well  attested 
facts  which  horticultural  experience  has  developed,  as  governing 
rules,  had  been  violated,  and,  that  either  the  plant  had  been 
unduly  shorn  of  its  roots  in  removal,  that  it  had  been  cribbed  and 
confined  in  a  hoi?  better  fitted  for  a  post,  than  "a  thing  of  life  ;'* 
or,  that  its  fl^rtner  habit  had  been  opposed  by  placing  it,  perhaps, 
many  inches  dppper  in  the  ground  than  it  had  formerly  stood. 
Success  in  horticulture  must  mainly  depend  on  studying  the 
operations  of  nature,  by  striving  to  aid  her  efforts,  but  in  no  case 
going  counter  to  them ;  for  though  she  may  at  times  and  for  a 
limited  period  suffer  opposition  to  her  laws,  she  will  ultimately 
exhibit  her  displeasure. 

On  removing  trees  from  the  nursery  or  elsewhere,  let  it  be  done 
Fo  as  to  preserve  as  many  roots  as  possible;  any  which  may  have 
been  mutilated,  and  the  long  and  straggling  ones,  should  be 
pruned,  taking  care  at  the  same  time  to  screen  them  from  the 
sun  and  drying  winds,  whilst  the  preparations  for  planting  are  in 
progress.  If  they  have  been  received  from  a  distance,  imme- 
diately on  their  arrival,  the  bundles  or  boxes,  as  the  case  may  be, 
should  be  unpacked,  the  loots  well  watered  and  "laid  in,"  as  it 
is   technically   termed,   that   is,    placing   them  in   an  "angular 


THE   MANUAL   OP  GARDENING.  17 

position,  and  covering  the  roots  with  earth  until  the  ground  in 
which  they  are  to  be  permanently  planted,  is  ready  to  receive 
them.  The  hole  in  which  it  is  intended  to  plant  an  ordinary 
sized  tree  from  a  nursery,  slionid  be  full  three  feet  in  diameter, 
and  nearly  the  same  in  depth  (for  shrubs  or  quite  small  trees,  so 
much  space  will  not,  of  course,  be  requisite).  The  earth  from 
the  bottom  should  be  cast  aside,  and  the  hole  filled  up  again  with 
compost  or  rich  garden  mould,  a  little  old  stable  manure,  but 
none  that  may  ferment,  may  be  used  in  the  compost,  or  mixed 
with  the  garden  mould.  The  tree  should  be  planted  one  or  two 
inches  deeper  than  it  previously  stood,  the  roots  and  fibres  being 
spread  out  horizontally  or  fan-like,  and  during  the  process  of  filling 
in  the  earth,  shake  the  tree  several  different  times,  so  as  to  admit 
the  soil  between  the  fine  roots,  and  fill  up  cavities  which  might 
otherwise  remain,  also  gently  tramp  the  soil  as  the  hole  is  being 
closed,  and  add  a  little  water  when  the  excavation  is  filled; 
finish  by  forming  a  basin  around  the  trunk  twelve  or  eighteen 
inches  in  diameter,  to  receive  the  rain,  or  water  which  it  may  be 
necessary  to  give  from  time  to  time,  should  the  ensuing  warm 
season  prove  dry.  A  thick  coat  of  long  manure,  grass,  or  litter 
of  any  kind,  placed  immediately  over  the  roots  to  screen  them 
from  the  sun,  and  prevent  rapid  evaporation,  is  more  beneficial 
than  artificial  watering.  To  prevent  the  winds  from  rocking 
the  tree,  and  thus  breaking  the  fibres,  it  should  be  secured  to  a 
stake  by  bands  of  straw. 

The  season  for  transplanting  trees  in  the  latitude  of  Philadel- 
phia, is  from  the  middle  of  October  to  the  first  or  middle  of  May, 
as  vegetation  may  be  early  or  late;  as  a  general  rule  suited  to 
all  latitudes,  transplanting  may  safely  be  done  when  the  sap  is 
not  in  motion,  and  no  impediment  exists  by  reason  of  the  earth 
being  too  wet  or  frosty.  Evergreens,  however,  are  thought  to 
succeed  belter  when  planted  in  the  spring ;  much  nevertheless 
depends  upon  the  nature  of  the  soil ;  and,  if  heavy,  the  spring  is 
generally  preferable,  as  the  frost  acts  with  greater  force  on  wet 
land,  and  sometimes  draws  the  newly  planted  trees. 

GROWTH  OF  PLANTS.— Plants  absorb  their  nutriment  by 
the  roots,  this  nutriment  is  then  conveyed  through  the  stem  into 
the  leaves;  there  it  is  subjected  to  a  process  by  which  a  large 
proportion  of  water  is  discharged,  the  rest  is  submitted  to  the 
action  of  the  atmosphere,  and  carbonic  acid  is  first  generated  and 
then  decomposed  by  the  action  of  light;  carbon  is  now  fixed 
under  the  form  of  a  nutritive  material,  which  is  conveyed  back 
into  the  system  of  the  plant,  for  the  developement  of  all  parts  of 
the  structure;  and  a  proportion  of  the  secreted  matter  is  after- 
wards ejected  from  the  plant.  It  was  Mrs.  Marcet,  in  her  Con- 
versations on  Vegetable  Physiology,  who  first  drew  the  attention 
2* 


18  THE   MANUAL    OF   GAKDENli^G. 

of  practical  gardeners  to  the  fact  of  plants  making  an  excrcmen- 
titious  discharge  from  their  roots  into  the  eoii ;  thus  opening  a 
field  of  speculation  that  leads  to  important 'facts,  as  connected 
with  the  management  of  plants.  This  excrem.entitious  matter 
does  not  appear  to  injure  plants  of  other  species,  to  any  consider- 
able degree;  but  it  eoon  renders  the  soil  unfit  for  the  culture  of 
plants  of  the  same  species,  which  will  considerably  deteriorate 
if  cultivated  for  above  three  or  four  years  on  the  same  spot.  The 
Rose-tree  offers  a  remarkable  instance  of  this :  it  shoots  out  its 
suckers  to  a  considerable  distance,  trying  as  it  were  to  escape 
the  already  saturated  earth,  and  draw  its  nutriment  from  an 
uncontaminated  source.  The  same  may  be  observed  in  many 
plants  that  ripen  seeds  and  shoot  out  suckers;  thus  plainly  indi- 
cating that  they  require  a  fresh  supply  of  uncontaminated  nutri- 
ment, which  should  be  afforded  them  either  by  transplanting  at 
the  proper  time,  or  digging  away  the  earth  as  much  as  possible 
without  injuring  the  roots,  and  giving  a  fresh  supply  of  earth. 
It  is  therefore  particularly  advisable  that  soil,  designed  for  the 
reception  of  flowers,  year  after  year  should  be  sweetened  or 
turned  up  to  the  influence  of  the  frost  and  air:  this  is  advan- 
tageous in  all  kinds  of  garden  culture,  but  is  more  particularly 
attended  to  by  florists,  who  repeatedly  turn  all  their  soils  and 
composts,  exposing  them  as  much  as  possible  to  the  action  of  the 
air  and  sun.  This  points  out  also  the  advantage  of  shifting  the 
situation  of  the  flower  beds  annually:  thus,  where  Tulips  blew 
one  year.  Carnations,  or  some  other  sort  of  flowers  should  be 
grown  the  next — by  no  means  keeping  the  same  spot  or  bed, 
year  after  year,  for  the  same  sort  of  plants. 

MANURE. — Flowers  require  the  utmost  care,  not  only  to 
change  the  soil,  but  to  refresh  it  with  proper  manure.  The  best 
kind  of  manure  is  usually  the  well-rotted  dung  of  the  horse,  or 
other  animal  manure;  this  should  be  well  fermented  and  rotted: 
liquid  manure,  obtained  by  soaking  the  dung  in  water,  may  be 
advantageously  applied ;  but  it  must  not  be  used  too  strong,  or  it 
will  injure  rather  than  invigorate.  Bone-dust,  which  niny  be 
obtained  at  the  button-factories,  has  been  extensively  used  in 
England  and  in  this  country  in  agriculture.  It  would  no  doubt 
answer  well  for  many  plants.  It  is  hasting  in  its  (frtcts,  but  care 
must  be  observed  to  use  it  gradually  and  in  limited  quantities. 
Poudrette  is  a  powerful  stimulant,  without  offensive  odour,  and 
a  sufficient  supply  for  a  small  garden  may  be  alwnys  kt'pt  on 
hand  unseen.  Wood-ashes  is  also  a  strong  and  active  fertilizer; 
and  Guiana,  the  excrement  of  a  particular  eea-fovvl  in  Srmth 
America  (on  the  coa>t  of  Guiana,)  is  said  to  produce  astonishing^ 
efl'ects.  It  is  found  in  vast  masFes,  probably  the  accummolation 
of  ages,  and  has  become  an  article  of  expnrt  to  Europe  for  agri- 


THE    MANUAL    OP   GARDENING.  19 

cultural  purposes ;  we  are  not  aware  that  any  satisfactory  expe- 
riments have  been  made  with  it  in  this  country,  but  its  qualities 
are  about  to  be  fully  tested.  A  great  object  in  the  rearing  of 
flowers  should  ba  not  to  overload  them  with  rich  or  watery 
food,  or  they  will  abound  in  leaves  while  the  number  of  flowers 
will  be  scanty.  They  must  have  plenty  of  light  and  sun  till 
half-blown,  after  which  they  should  be  shaded  to  preserve  their 
colours.  Plants  differ  as  much  in  their  nature  as  animals,  and 
therefore  no  rule  can  be  laid  down  indiscriminately  :  some  flow- 
ering plants  require  a  highly  nutritive  soil,  others  again  succeed 
best  in  a  meagre  one ;  we  shall  point  out  the  proper  soil  for  each 
when  speaking  of  the  individuals.  Many  plants  flourish  best  in 
a  dry  or  sandy  soil,  while  to  others  a  damp,  adhesive,  or  reten- 
tive soil  is  equally  beneficial.  There  are  some  few  flowers 
which  delight  in  a  shaded  situation ;  but  the  great  majority  only 
produce  a  great  abundance  of  fine  flowers  when  fully  exposed 
to  the  sun's  rays.  Many  flower-roots  require  protection  during 
severe  frosts,  others  will  endure  the  utmost  rigour  of  the  winter 
with  impunity  ;  no  general  rule  therefore  can  be  given ;  but  the 
nature  and  wants  of  each  class  will  be  pointed  out  under  their 
general  heads. 

For  more  general  information  concerning  manure,  the  site 
most  advantageous  for  a  garden,  soils,  &c.,  see  what  is  said  in 
our  Kitchen  Garde?!,  where  these  topics  are  fully  gone  into. 
In  the  present  work,  the  method  of  managing  plants  in  pots  is 
particularly  attended  to,  pointing  out  which  sorts  are  best 
adapted  for  that  kind  of  culture.  Pots  form  the  whole  flower 
garden  of  many  individuals,  and  a  very  pretty  show  and  succes- 
sion may  be  produced,  with  common  attention.  It  is  now  usual 
to  buy  each  plant  when  at  its  perfection,  and  then  permit  it  to 
die;  but  by  attending  to  the  rules  laid  down  in  the  succeeding 
pagps,  many  plants  may  be  reared,  at  a  much  less  expense,  and 
kept  from  year  to  year;  and  as  plants  often  become  favourites, 
this  is  not  only  less  expensive  but  more  plsasing. 

BULBS  IN  WATER  GLASSES.— The  kinds  of  Bulbs  best 
adapted  for  water-glasses,  are  all  the  species  of  the  Narcissus, 
the  Hyacinth,  the  early  dwarf  Tulip,  the  Jonquil,  both  large 
Dutch  and  common  Iris,  both  the  Persian  and  the  Dwarf  Scotch 
Crocuses,  and  in  short  any  of  the  similar  sorts.  You  must  com- 
mence by  procuring  glasses  of  the  proper  sort,  of  which  thf,-re 
are  many  forms,  but  the  one  in  general  use  is  the  least  expensive, 
and  periiaps  thebs?t;  certainly  it  is  the  mo?t  convenient.  Those 
with  dark  glasses  are  most  congenial  to  the  roots,  but  the  trans- 
parent glass  exhibits  the  progress  of  growth,  which  is  no  small 
portion  of  the  pleasure  of  the  culture;  and  at  any  time  between 
Octobtr  and  January  (after  which  the  bulbs,  if  kept  out  of  the 


20  THE    MANUAL    OP  GARDENINQ. 

ground,  shrivel  and  lose  vigour ;  if  it  be  desired  to  have  them 
later,  the  better  plan  is  to  keep  a  supply  in  earth  as  a  reserve) 
fill  them  with  water  and  place  your  plants;  the  water  must  be 
soft,  and  just  reach  through  the  neck  to  the' upper  chamber,  so 
that  the  bottom  of  the  Bulb  may  be  a  little  immersed  in  the 
water,  not  covered  ;  then  place  the  g^lasses  in  a  warm  room  where 
they  may  at  once  enjoy  light  and  heat :  it  is  better  they  should 
be  exposed  to  the  sun's  rays  than  not.  By  placing  them  in  the 
glasses  at  proper  intervals  of  time,  a  succession  of  flowers  may 
be  obtained  from  January  to  April,  forming  a  pretty  ornament  for 
the  parlour-window  or  chimney-piece ;  they  require  no  further 
care,  than  to  see  that  the  water  does  not  sink  so  low  as  to  leave 
the  roots  dry :  fresh  water  must  be  given  at  intervals  of  two  or 
three  days,  to  be  judged  of  by  the  appearance  of  the  fluid, 
whether  clear  or  foul ;  when  the  bulbs  are  newly  planted,  the 
change  need  not  be  so  frequent  as  after  the  glasses  are  filled  with 
water.  It  is  essential  that  the  temperature  of  the  water  to  be 
given,  should  be  the  same  as  that  which  it  is  to  replace.  The 
operation  of  changing  is  easily  done  by  one  person,  when  the 
roots  are  only  an  inch  or  two  long,  but  after  the  flower  stems  are 
of  some  length,  and  the  roots  nearly  fill  the  glasses,  two  persons 
become  requisite,  one  to  take  out  the  bulb,  and  hold  it,  and  to  dip 
its  roots  in  clear  water  to  rinse  them,  and  another  to  wash  the 
glass,  and  refill  it  with  water. 


CHAPTER  II. 

THE  CONSERVATORY,  GREEN-HOUSE,  COLD-PIT, 
VERANDAH,  &,c. — The  Conservatory  is  designed  for  the  re- 
ception of  the  most  rare  and  beautiful  exotics,  which  are  here 
planted  in  the  ground,  instead  of  being  placed  in  pots  as  in  a 
green-house,  or  hot-house.  The  conservatory  should  either  be 
attached  to,  or  at  least  never  be  separated  from  the  dwelling- 
house  ;  and  from  its  size,  admits  of  more  architectural  display 
than  other  horticultural  erections.  The  principle  on  which  con- 
servatories are  constructed,  is  to  admit  as  great  a  quantity  of 
light  as  possible,  and  to  obtain  a  facility  of  heating  and  ventilating 
every  part.  The  modes  of  heating  these,  and  hot-houses,  are  as 
various  as  the  judgment  or  fancies  of  their  possessors;  but  the 
last  and  apparently  the  most  favourite  method  is  by  pipes  of  hot 
water. 

Conservatories  are  principally  designed  for  the  reception  of 
the  larger  sorts  of  green-house  plants,  but  stove  plants,  particu- 
larly the  fine  flowering,  or  rarely  fruiting  kinds,  may  be  thus 
cultivated  with  the  greatest  success;   for  though  many  plants 


THE    MANUAL    OP    GARDENING.  21 

may  be  brought  to  flower  in  pots  in  a  hot-house,  yet  numbers,  of 
the  lars^er  sorts  particularly,  never  can  thus  arrive  at  any  thing 
like  perfection  of  size.  Due  attention  must  be  paid  at  all  times 
to  regulate  the  temperature,  and  in  the  winter  months  to  keep 
off  frosts :  ventilation  must  also  be  attended  to,  so  as  to  exclude 
damp ;  the  plants  must  be  duly  watered  with  milk-warm  water, 
keeping  them  free  from  decayed  leaves  or  flowers.  A  supply  of 
flowering  bulbs  and  other  plants  must  be  kept  up  so  as  to  secure 
a  succession.  Climbing  plants  trained  in  festoons  add  greatly  to 
the  beauty  of  the  place  during  the  summer  months. 

The  Green-House  is  similar  in  its  use  to  the  conservatory,  but 
it  is  on  a  smaller  scale,  the  plants  being  kept  in  boxes,  or  pots  of 
various  sizes.  The  old  method  was  to  construct  a  shed-like 
building  with  a  roof  sloping  towards  the  south,  or  south-east,  but 
span  roofs  ranging  north  and  south,  are  now  considered  more  suit- 
able for  the  purpose  of  growing  handsome  plants,  than  the  old 
form. 

Thus  far  we  have  reprinted  from  the  London  edition,  the  re- 
marks on  houses,  and  management  of  plants;  but  the  difference 
in  our  climate,  and  other  considerations,  have  induced  the  rejec- 
tion of  the  remainder  of  that  article,  and  the  substitution  of  ori- 
ginal observations. 

Many  other  plans  have  been  suggested  for  constructing  this 
delightful  appendage  to  both  country  and  city  residences.  Expe- 
rience has  shown  that  a  portion,  at  least,  of  the  expense  hitherto 
incurred  in  their  erection  is  not  actually  necessary,  and  that  a 
simple  building,  properly  constructed,  and  sufficiently  extensive 
for  private  gratification,  may  now  be  erected  at  a  very  moderate 
cost;  and  so  simplified  has  the  form  become  by  successive  modi- 
fications, that  no  difficulLy  exists  in  finding  builders  competent  to 
execute  the  work.  We  could  readily  append  plans,  and  lay  down 
directions  for  the  instruction  of  the  builder;  but  it  must  be  evi- 
dent, that  however  elaborate  they  might  be,  they  would  be  of 
little  value  compared  with  the  inspection  of  such  structures,  in 
company  with  an  intelligent  carpenter.  The  better  plan,  there- 
fore, for  those  who  may  design  putting  up  a  green-house,  is  to 
examine  such  as  may  be  within  their  reach,  and  select  as  a  model, 
some  one  which  has  proved  well  adapted  to  the  purpose.  It  will 
be  very  easy  to  vary  the  size  to  suit  the  position  in  v;hich  it  is  in- 
tended to  build,  or  the  amount  of  expenditure  contemplated. 

In  cases  where  it  is  not  the  wish  of  cultivators  to  incur  the 
expense  of  an  elevated  structure,  one  of  more  humble  pretension, 
but  of  successful  application  may  be  adopted;  we  allude  to  the 
Cold-pit,  a  sort  of  subterranean  green-house,  or  frame,  partially 
under  ground,  to  screen  it  from  the  cold,  and  covered  by  glass, 
and  provided  with  moveable  outside  shutters.  Tiie  pit  should  be 
placed  where  it  would  be  protected  from  northerly  winds,  and  if 


22  THE   MANUAL   OP  GARDENING. 

possible,  with  southerly  exposure.  If  the  soil  be  not  naturally 
dry,  there  should  be  a  drain  laid,  so  as  to  carry  off  the  moisture, 
which  would  otherwise  accumulate,  and  prove  prejudicial  to  the 
health  of  the  plants,  as  well  as  render  an  entrance,  by  persons 
in  delicate  health,  unpleasant,  if  not  dangerous.  In  such  a  struc- 
ture, well  located,  and  managed  with  due  care,  most  hardy 
green-house  plants  may  be  successfully  preserved,  without  the 
aid  of  fire.  But  if  the  slight  additional  expense  of  a  flue,  were 
incurred,  they  could  not  only  be  preserved,  but  kept  in  a  high 
degree  of  perfection,  and  with  actually  less  care  than  in  a  green- 
house, because  it  would  be  less  exposed  to  frost,  than  if  elevated. 

The  Plant  Verandah  is  another  species  of  green-house,  par- 
ticularly adapted  for  cottage  or  villa  residences.  It  consists  of  a 
covered  projection  having  a  glazed  front,  and  the  roof  either 
wholly  or  partially  the  same.  It  may  be  placed  against  the  front 
or  one  of  the  ends  of  the  dwelling,  according  to  the  aspect,  the 
principal  windows  opening  into  it  in  the  French  manner.  But 
if  this  be  not  desirable  on  the  score  of  expense,  an  arrangement 
equally  successful,  may  be  adopted,  viz:  the  erection  of  an  inside 
gash,  receding  two  or  three  feet  (more  or  less,  as  the  size  of  the  apart- 
ment, and  the  wants  of  the  family  may  admit)  into  the  room.  Id 
the  space  thus  formed,  between  the  outside  and  inside  sashes, 
green-house  plants,  of  any  description,  may  be  kept  with  great 
ease;  much  more  so,  than  when  simply  placed  upon  the  window- 
ledge  ;  in  the  latter  case  the  temperature  of  the  room  is  frequently 
much  too  high,  and  fresh  air  so  essential  to  their  health,  and 
consequent  beauty,  cannot  be  given  without  admitting  a  draft 
into  the  apartment.  But  by  the  plan  proposed,  warm  air  from  the 
room,  or  cold  air  from  the  outside,  may  be  given  or  withheld  at 
pleasure,  and  without  the  slightest  inconvenience.  The  gas, 
and  dry  scorching  heat,  emitted  by  anthracite  coal,  now  so  gener- 
ally used  in  our  cities,  is  destructive  to  vegetable  life;  hence  the 
frequently  unhealthy  and  cheerless  aspect  of  plants  kept  in  sitting- 
rooms  where  that  fuel  is  used.  By  the  plan  recommended,  that 
objection  is  obviated ;  as  the  heat  may  be  properly  adjusted,  and  its 
dry  character  corrected,  by  the  gradual  but  constant  evaporation 
of  moisture  which  maybe  in  progress;  whilst  all  the  pleasure 
which  arises  from  having  plants  in  the  room,  is  as  fully  enjoyed 
as  if  the  inside  sash  were  absent. 

Plants  are  frequently  kept  during  winter  in  bath-houses,  as  now 
constructed  in  our  principal  cities;  situated  ten  or  twelve  feet 
above  the  ground,  so  as  to  be  reached  from  the  second  story  of 
the  kitchen-offices,  or  as  is  frequently  the  case,  adjoining  the 
ordinary  family  room,  which  is  so  placed  as  to  overlook  the  gar- 
den. It  is  better  the  room  should  have  a  southerly,  or  easterly 
exposure;  and  if  this  appendage  is  so  placed  as  to  admit  of  a  flue 


THE   MANUAL   OP   GARDENING.  23 

for  heated  air,  from  the  main  furnace  supplying  the  house  (if  it  be 
so  heated,  now  a  very  common  occurrence,)  by  keeping  a  ther- 
mometer in  the  bath-house,  and  providing  for  the  proper  evapo- 
ration of  moisture,  which  will  correct  the  otherwise  injurious 
effect  of  the  heated  air,  plants  may  be  kept  in  fine  health,  and 
without  the  necessity  of  an  additional  fire,  the  removal  of  a  shut- 
ter, or  any  of  the  manual  labour  attending  the  green-house  ;  and 
as  in  such  a  situation  water  is  carried  into  the  room  by  pipes,  the 
whole  management  may  be  conducted  by  the  ladies  of  the  house- 
hold, for  whose  special  gratification  (and  the  management  of 
them  is  an  essential  part  of  the  enjoyment  derived  from  them) 
plants  are  usually  kept.  Birds  in  cages,  goldfish  in  globes,  may 
also  be  kept  here,  and  if  the  room  were  sufficiently  large  to  admit 
a  rustic  seat,  it  would  be  an  agreeable  lounge  for  an  hour  in 
pleasant  weather,  or  a  spot  to  which  a  visiter  might  be  introduced 
with  pleasant  effect.  We  could  scarcely  recommend  this  arrange- 
ment when  the  proper  apparatus  for  heating  does  not  exist.  If 
a  stove,  for  instance,  be  relied  on,  constant  care  would  be  requi- 
site, to  keep  the  temperature  uniform ;  and  even  then,  the  plant3 
immediately  surrounding  the  stove  would  be  almost  certain  to  be 
scorched  and  killed. 

Many  hardy  green-house  plants,  and  those  of  the  most  desira- 
ble kind  too,  may  be  kept  without  difficulty  in  a  light  airy  cellar, 
where  the  soil  is  dry,  and  moisture  consequently  filters,  or  rapidly 
passes  off.  Here,  without  further  attention  than  an  occasional 
watering  and  admission  of  fresh  air,  for  a  few  hours  every  day, 
when  the  weather  is  not  severe,  Roses,  Cape  Jasmines,  Oleari' 
ders,  LagerstroBtniaSj  Myrtles,  Azalias,  the  Citrus  tribe,  with 
many  other  plants  which  contribute  so  greatly  to  the  summer 
ornament  of  the  garden,  may  be  kept  with  success;  certainly 
not  so  well  as  in  more  favourable  locations,  but  where  nothing 
better  is  at  command,  the  cellar  may  be  useful  as  an  aid  to  our 
summer  enjoyment;  indeed  it  would  be  an  easy  matter  in  the 
construction  of  a  dwelling,  so  to  arrange  a  portion  of  the  cellar 
with  open  area,  and  capacious  windows,  as  to  admirably  adapt  it 
to  the  keeping  of  hardy  green-house  plants  (including  Camellias,') 
without  fire  heat;  and  in  city  residences,  where  space  is  an 
object,  and  the  garden  must  be  curtailed  by  any  out-house  struc- 
ture, it  would  be  a  desirable  arrangement ;  and  one  which  would 
cost  but  a  trifle,  if  it  were  a  part  of  the  plan  when  the  house  was 
being  constructed. 

Supposing  the  means  for  protection  to  be  in  readiness,  we  will 
proceed  to  make  some  general  remarks  as  to  the  management 
of  such  plants  as  require  protection. 

About  the  1st  of  October,  or  some  seasons  a  week  earlier,  it 
will  be  prudent  to  prepare  the  plants  for  their  winter  quarters. — 
Those  which  have  not  been  repotted  during  the  summer,  and 
may  appear  to  require  an  extension  of  room,  (of  which  the  culti- 


24  THE   MANUAL    OF    GARDENING. 

vator  must  in  the  main  judge  for  himself,  as  it  is  impracticable 
to  give  the  minute  directions  necessary  to  meet  all  cases)  or 
fresh  soil,  should  now  be  shifted  ;  and  such  as  do  not  seem  to 
need  such  change,  may  have  their  appearance  improved  by  the 
removal  of  an  inch  of  the  soil  from  the  surface,  and  replacing  it 
with  fresh  earth ;  which  will  rid  it,  for  a  time  at  least,  of  the 
moss  which  is  apt  to  accumulate  there.  The  pots  should  be 
scoured,  which  will  likewise  kill  the  green  moss,  or  mould,  which 
grows  on  the  exterior  surface;  and  the  leaves  should  be  carefully 
spunged,  or  vigorously  syringed,  to  clear  them  of  dust. 

The  arrangement  of  plants  in  a  green-house  is  as  various  as 
the  tastes  of  people ;  the  usual  mode  is  to  place  the  small  ones 
in  front  and  those  of  greater  size  behind,  so  as  to  produce  the 
effect  of  an  inclined  plane;  and  this  mode  is  the  best,  for  the 
simple  reason  that  it  gives  all  a  share  of  the  light,  and  also 
brings  the  smaller  plants  more  into  view.  United  with  the  fore- 
going arrangement  some  are  studious  to  mix  all  the  different 
kinds  as  fully  as  possible,  so  that  no  two  of  a  species,  or  of 
similar  appearance,  may  come  together,  to  produce  variety  ;  ihis 
method  has  been  severely  criticised — "  variety  requires  a  certain 
degree  of  distinctness  of  character  or  feature,  on  which  the  eye 
can  repose  itself  before  proceeding  to  another;  but  where  every 
thing  is  indistinctly  mixed  together,  there  can  be  no  features, 
nothing  on  which  the  eye  can  dwell  with  satisfaction,  all  is 
confounded  and  reduced  to  a  mere  chaos  of  forms  and  colours." 
Others  recommend,  that  "  each  genus  and  species  be  kept  by 
itself,  or  where  a  number  bear  a  striking  natural  resemblance, 
as  for  instance  Pelargoniums,  Roses,  Camellia,  &c.,  the  whole 
be  grouped  together,  not  in  a  formal  manner,  but  so  as  to  show  a 
sort  of  relationship,  or  connexion.  By  keeping  plants  together, 
it  is  not  meant  to  keep  them  in  contact,  in  a  compact  clump,  but 
to  place  them  in  visible  connexion,  in  irregular  groups,  which  is 
quite  consistent  with  placing  the  tallest  plants  of  the  group  on 
the  upper  part  of  the  stage,  and  the  lesser  plants  nearer  the 
spectator.  It  is  sufficient  that  the  connexion  of  the  species  be 
recognised  by  the  eye,  and  that  there  appear  in  the  green-house 
what  there  always  is  in  natural  scenery,  something  like  a  natural 
gradation,  and  blending  of  character  in  shrubs,  trees,  and  herbs 
growing  together."  But  after  all  it  is  vain  to  lay  down  arbitrary 
rules  where  so  much  depends  on  circumstances;  as,  for  instance, 
the  extent  of  the  collection,  the  size  of  the  plants,  their  adapta- 
tion to  grouping,  and  a  variety  of  other  things,  which  must  all 
be  considered  by  the  operator. 

Having  arranged  the  plants  to  suit  the  taste,  be  careful  to  give 
them  fresh  air  in  abundance,  more  especially  for  the  first  few 
weeks,  and  during  the  warm  days,  which  usually  occur  at  this 
season.     They  will  also  require  water  in  greater  quantity  than 


THE   MANUAL    OF   GARDENING.  25 

after  the  weather  becomes  cooler,  and  of  consequence  the 
evaporation  less  rapid  ;  those  which  are  in  an  active  state,  will 
require  more  than  tho-e  which  are  dormant;  but  it  may  be 
observed  that  an  accidental  neoflect  to  water,  at  this  season,  will 
not  be  attended  with  as  injurious  results,  as  if  it  were  warm 
weather,  or  the  plant  were  in  free  growth. 

Many  of  the  leaves  which  were  green,  when  the  plants  were 
first  housed,  will  gradually  decay,  and  Fhould  be  removed,  and 
those  plants,  which  may  have  been  placed  in  the  house,  for 
instance,  Crysanfhemum,  and  some  other  herbaceous  plants,  to 
give  an  autumnal  gaiety,  may  be  removed  from  view,  being  no 
lonirer  sightly. 

As  the  v.'eather  becomes  cooler,  and  winter  weather  ap- 
proaches it  may  be  necessary  to  be  more  cautious  as  to  the 
admittance  of  air,  and  ultimately  a  little  fire  at  night  may  be 
required;  but  if  the  house  be  provided  with  close  shutters,' fire 
will  hardly  he  necessary  until  late  in  December;  and  not  then 
if  the  season  be  mild.  Let  it  be  observed  as  a  general  rule,  that 
the  less  artificial  heat  used,  the  better;  provided  the  temperature 
can  be  kept  to  a  proper  height.  If  plants  are  forced  much,  they 
are  liable  to  greater  injury  from  extraordinarily  severe  weather, 
or  any  of  those  accidents  which  will  sometimes  occur  in  the 
♦'best  regulated"  houses.  The  shutters  should  be  removed 
every  day  when  it  is  practicable  ;  for,  though  there  may  be 
no  sunshine,  the  light  is  essenti-il. 

Presuming  the  severity  of  the  weather  to  have  passed  by 
without  the  plants  having  been  affected  by  the  cold,  and  the 
spring  to  be  approaching,  and  with  it  a  warmer  sun,  and  mild 
balmy  air,  it  will  be  necessary  to  give  air  more  freely,  than  of 
late  ;  and  to  attend  more  systematically  to  watering  the  plants, 
especially  such  as  may  be  coming  into  bloom,  or  shooting  freely, 
as  a  neglect  to  water  may  greatly  impair  their  beauty,  and 
shorten  the  season  of  bloom.  Of  course  these  remarks  are  only 
intended  for  those  wbo  keep  a  few  plants  for  personal  amuse- 
ment, and  bestow  a  passing  hour  on  their  culture  ;  not  where 
rpguhir  collectif)ns  are  maintained  under  the  charge  of  a  well 
instructed  gardener.  Such  a  person,  to  be  fitted  for  his  post, 
should  practically  understand  all  these  things,  and  though  he 
will,  if  he  have  any  ambition  to  excel,  look  into  books,  indeed, 
read  all  that  may  be  said  on  the  practice  and  theory  of  his  pro- 
fession, still  these  simple  details  should  be  as  familiar  to  him  as 
his  own  right  hand.  But  to  proceed.  The  temperature  should 
not,  at  this  early  period  of  the  spring,  be  suffered  to  reach  higher 
than  50  to  55  degrees,  as  any  sudden  change  in  the  weather, 
and  such  changes  may  be  expected,  would  be  severely  felt  by 
plants  which  had  been  unduly  forced. 

That  pride  of  the  green-house  at  this  season,  the  Camellia 
3 


26  THE   MANUAL    OP   GARDENING. 

Japonica,  will  probably  be  in  full  bloom,  and  the  expanded 
flowers  may  be  preserved  in  beauty,  by  shielding-  them  from  liie 
direct  rays  of  the  sun ;  indeed,  the  same  may  be  said  of  all  flow- 
ers; and  in  order  to  secure  their  bloom  for  the  greatest  length 
of  time,  and  screen  the  foliage  from  the  full  force  of  the  sun,  act- 
ing through  the  glass,  it  is  usual  to  give  a  thin  coat  of  whiting 
on  the  under  surface  of  the  glass.  A  mode  still  better  would  be 
to  provide  the  sash  with  curtains  of  cheap  muslin,  arranged  on 
rollers,  so  as  to  be  let  down  or  drawn  up  at  pleasure. 

The  warm  weather  may  now  bring  into  action  numerous 
insects,  which  have  lain  dormant  during  the  winter,  or  hatch 
eggs,  which  were  deposited  on  the  plants  during  the  preceding 
summer.  Most  of  these  may  be  destroyed  by  fumigating  tho 
house  with  tobacco  smoke;  or,  what  is  safer  under  certain  cir- 
cumstances, by  syringing  such  as  may  be  affected  with  a  solution 
of  tobacco,  or  very  weak  whale-oil  soap;  which  may  be  rinsed 
off  with  clean  water,  after  a  few  hours  have  elapsed.  For  the 
red  spider,  see  observations,  article  Camellia  Japonica.  Another 
insect,  popularly  termed  the  scale,  (coccvs,)  will  frequently  show 
itself  in  formidable  numbers,  especially  on  the  stems  and  under 
surface  of  Orange  and  Lemon  trees,  the  Acacia^  Oleander,  and 
other  evergreen  plants.  The  best  method  to  exterminate  them 
is  to  take  leaf  by  leaf,  and  rub  on  a  strong  decoction  of  warm 
tobacco  juice,  or  a  solution  of  whale-oil  soap,  judiciously  applied  ; 
this  latter  article  is  powerful  in  its  efi^ects,  and  we  would  advise 
the  operator  to  make  some  experiments  on  a  small  scale,  to  test 
the  strength  with  which  it  may  be  safely  applied,  before  using  it 
generally.  This  is  the  season  when  many  plants,  especially 
those  with  evergreen  or  persistent  leaves,  may  be  shifted,  though 
most  of  them  may  be  done  equally  well  at  mid-summer.  Gera- 
niums,  and  plants  generally  which  have  soft  wood,  as  well  as 
Roses,  shift  better  when  in  a  more  inactive  state,  say  late  in 
autumn ;  but  it  may  be  done  at  any  lime,  by  using  necessary 
caution. — Of  course,  when  a  plant  is  in  full  growth,  and  it  be 
deemed  advisable  to  remove  it  to  a  larger  vessel,  no  person  would 
be  so  destitute  of  reflection  as  to  probe  the  roots  severely,  or  re- 
move any  considerable  portion  of  the  old  soil,  thereby  disturbing 
the  tender  fibres. 

It  has  not  been  deemed  necessary  to  append  to  each  and  every 
plant  described,  a  minute  description  of  the  soil  best  adapted  to 
it ;  and  here  we  would  take  occasion  to  remark,  there  is  a  great 
degree  of  arbitrariness  connected  with  the  modus  operandi  in 
this  branch  of  Floriculture.  To  observe  the  precise  details  laid 
down  by  some  for  the  critical  compounding  of  soils,  is  not  less 
amusing  than  the  prescriptions  of  many  of  our  young  practitioners 
in  medicine — a  more  simple  combination  would  answer  equally 
well ;  but  then  there  would  be  less  display  of  wisdom.     Presura- 


THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDENING.  27 

ing  that  our  readers  have  had  some  little  experience  in  the  cul- 
ture of  plants,  or  at  any  rate  have  a  taste  therefor,  which  will 
insensibly  load  them  to  reflect  on  the  nature  and  habits  of  vege- 
tables, (and  knowledge  thus  gained  is  the  most  to  be  relied  on,) 
we  proceed  to  make  the  following  general  observations  on  soils: 

The  Acacia,  Melaleuca,  Metrosideros,  Banksia,  and  the  great 
body  of  New  Holland  plants,  thrive  in  a  compost  formed  of  almost 
equal  portions  of  light  loam  and  savannah. 

The  Amaryllis,  or  Lily  tribe  in  general,  Agapanthus,  Olean- 
der, Pelargonium  or  Geranium,  Gardenia  or  Cape  Jasmine, 
and  Citrus  or  Orange  tribe,  in  3  parts  loam,  1  decomposed  leaf, 
1  sand,  1  manure.  The  Citrus  may  have  rather  more  manure; 
or,  what  is  perhaps  better,  the  surface  of  the  earth  may  be  co- 
vered with  it,  or  an  occasional  watering  of  fluid  manure  may  be 
given. 

Camellia,  Thea,  Fuchsia,  Passijlora,  Tecoma,  Myrtus,  Big- 
nonia — light  loam  and  decayed  leaf,  in  about  equal  proportions, 
and  a  small  quantity  of  sand. 

Epacris,  Erica,  Kennedia,  Azalia,  Rhododendron  —  three- 
fourths  savannah,  one-fourth  light  loam. 

Loam  formed  by  the  decay  of  soil  from  an  old  pasture  of  natu- 
rally light  land,  is  the  best,  and,  where  plants  are  kept,  a  supply 
of  it  should  always  be  in  readiness.  It  will  usually  require  a 
twelvemonth  to  prepare  it  by  the  decay  of  the  roots,  and  by  fre- 
quent turning  and  exposure  to  the  atmosphere,  to  give  the  seeds 
which  would  otherwise  lie  dormant,  an  opportunity  to  sprout. 

Savannah,  or  peat,  as  it  is  indifferently  termed  by  gardeners, 
is  in  its  natural  state  a  dark  earth,  found  in  certain  localities, 
which  may  have  been  at  some  former  day  submerged.  Its  con- 
stituents are  loam,  sand,  and  decomposed  vegetable  matter,  prin- 
cipally the  latter.  It  may  be  artificially  compounded  by  a  mix- 
ture of  surface  woodland-earth  and  fresh  sand  ;  the  white  sand, 
such  as  is  used  by  glass-blowers,  is  a  good  kind.  It  is,  however, 
unnecessary  to  form  this  compost,  as,  in  all  cases  where  the 
natural  savannah  is  not  attainable,  a  larger  proportion  of  wood- 
land-earth and  sand  may  be  used,  than  is  recommended  above. 

Woodland-earth,  or  leaf  mould,  may  be  obtained  from  the 
forest,  or  its  equivalent  may  be  formed  by  an  accumulation  of 
leaves,  placed  where  they  may  decompose ;  that  from  the  woods 
is,  however,  better,  as  the  fibrous  matter,  collected  with  it  tends 
to  keep  the  particles  distinct,  and  aids  the  growth  of  the  roots. 
Many  cultivators  carefully  sieve  the  earth  with  which  they  pot, 
to  remove  all  fibrous  matter;  but  that  is  an  error:  only  the  large 
lumps  and  coarse  extraneous  matter  should  be  rejected,  as  the 
other  keeps  the  whole  from  cementing,  and  gives  the  small  fibres 
a  chance  to  search  for  food,  and  also  acts  as  a  filter  for  the  water. 


28  THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDENING. 

The  manure  generally  used  in  plant  culture  is  stable  dung, 
thoroughly  aecomposed  by  age,  so  that  when  a  spade  is  passed 
through  it,  it  will  cut  clearly,  and  when  partially  dried,  may  be 
rubbed  into  minute  particles;  there  are  frequently  vast  quantities 
of  grass  and  weed  seeds,  incorporated  with  such  manure,  which 
may  prove  troublesome  if  a  chance  be  not  given  them  to  vegetate 
by  frequently  turning  the  mass,  and  exposing  it  to  the  atmo- 
sphere. 

Acacia. — The  Acacia,  or  Mimosa,  as  they  are  indifferently 
termed  by  amateurs,  embrace  a  great  many  species,  whose  habit 
is  to  blnom  during  winter  and  spring;  a  considerable  number  of 
them  are  very  pretty,  producing  yellow  flowers,  varying  in  shade 
or  tint.  The  following  are  beautiful  kinds:  verticillata,  pulchella, 
Jlorubunda,  linearis,  diffusa,  armata;  some  of  tliese  have  the 
flowers  in  globular  heads,  others  in  cylindrical  spikes.  The  A. 
Julibrissin  is  a  fine  showy  species,  growing  as  large  as  a  full- 
sized  apple  tree,  and  withstands  the  winter  in  the  south.  We 
have  seen  them  in  gardens  in  Alahama  and  Mississippi,  20  to  30 
feet  high.  It  affords  a  dense  shade  on  a  bright  day,  but  when 
it  threatens  rain,  the  leaflets  close  their  lower  surfaces,  till  the 
8un  again  appears. 

Agapanthus  Umbellatus  is  a  showy  plant,  producing  um- 
bels of  sky-blue  flowers.  The  scape  in  vigorous  plants  ascends 
two  feet  or  upwards,  and  when  several  bulbs  are  united  in  a 
group,  the  effect  of  their  combined  umbels  of  cerulean  blue,  is 
charming.  It  thrives  best  in  strong,  rich,  garden  mould,  and 
should  be  kept  in  pots  of  ample  size ;  figured  in  the  Floral  Maga- 
zine. 

Amaryllis. — A  genus  of  bulbous-rooted  plants,  many  of 
which  yield  pretty,  and  some  magnificent  flowers;  among  the 
latter  are  several  hybrids,  produced  by  crossing  the  original 
Fpecies.  A.  Johnsoni,  A.  regina,  A,  aidica,  A.  vitata  and  A, 
purpurea,  (at  this  time  called  Valatta  purpurea)  the  last  figured 
in  the  Floral  Magazine,  are  fine  kinds.  The  Amaryllis  is  easily 
managed,  if  care  be  taken  to  give  plenty  of  water  whilst  it  is  in 
free  growth,  reducing  the  quantity  as  it  declines,  and  keep  the 
bulbs  in  a  dry  state  whilst  they  are  dormant. 

Aster  Argofhyllis,  the  Musk  Plant,  is  desirable  on  account 
of  the  curious  musky  odour,  imparted  by  the  leaves  when  rubbed. 
Its  flowers,  or  the  general  appearance  of  the  plant,  are  by  no 
means  attractive,  but  it  is,  nevertheless,  quite  a  favourite. 

AucuBA  Japonica. — See  page  45. 

Azalea. — There  are  now  many  varieties  of  this  splendid 
plant ;  those  from  China  are  not  sufficiently  hardy  to  withstand 
the  climate  of  the  middle  states,  but  are  easily  kept  in  an  ordi- 
nary sitting  room.    Few  plants  are  more  attractive,  and  no  col- 


THE    MANUAL    OF    GARDENING.  29 

lection  should  be  without  a  well  selected  variety.  Those  which 
are  most  esteemed  are  the  indica,  (the  old  bright  scarlet,')  indi- 
ca-piirpurea,  plicenicia,  alba^  smithii,  gillinghami,  sinensis,  nO' 
va-blanca,  ^'C. 

Auricula. — This  is  one  of  those  called  Florist's  flowers:  it  is 
a  native  of  Switzerland.  The  soil  most  suitable  for  it,  and  most 
easily  procured,  is  equal  proportions  of  fresh  garden-mould,  and 
well  rotted  cow  dung,  to  which  add  a  little  sand;  a  more  com- 
plex kind  is  sometimes  recommended,  composed  of  one  half  of 
well-decayed  dung,  one  fourth  of  turf  loam,  one  eighth  of  peat 
or  heath  soil,  and  the  rest  rotten  leaves  and  river  sand,  the  whole 
having  been  exposed  to  the  frost  in  the  preceding  winter.  They 
may  be  propagated  either  by  seeds  or  off-sets,  the  former  method 
is  seldom  resorted  to  except  by  florists,  who  wish  to  procure 
new  sorts.  Tiie  seed  should  be  sown  in  boxes  in  March,  co- 
vered very  lightly,  and  placed  in  an  eastern  aspect;  they  must 
be  gently  watered,  and  when  the  plants  have  five  or  six  leaves, 
be  planted  out  into  other  boxes,  or  pans,  proceeding  the  same  till 
they  become  strong ;  they  should  then  be  planted  in  the  border 
till  they  flower,  when  the  best  can  be  selected  for  potting.  Off- 
sets should  be  taken  off'  v^hen  the  flowers  have  faded,  and  planted 
separately  in  small  pots  filled  with  the  soil  last  described,  and  the 
old  plants  should  be  also  re-planted  in  fresh  soil.  Auriculas  must 
either  be  protected  during  the  winter  in  a  frame,  or  placed  under 
the  shelter  of  a  wall,  the  pots  turned  down  on  their  sides,  and  a 
slanting  board  placed  over  them :  the  pots  should  be  placed  on 
coal  ashes  to  prevent  the  worms  from  entering;  this  also  prevents 
the  bottom  of  the  pot  from  becoming  clogged  up,  which  would 
hinder  the  circulation  of  the  water.  In  spring,  when  the  frost 
is  over,  well  expose  them  to  light  and  air,  and  remove  the 
earth  from  the  top  of  the  pot,  for  the  depth  of  an  inch,  supply- 
ing the  place  with  fresh  compost.  Liquid  manure  may  also  be 
applied  occasionally.  If  more  than  one  flower-stem  appear  to 
each  plant  they  should  be  removed,  and  not  more  than  eight  or 
ten  flowers  should  be  allowed  to  remain  in  each  bunch,  which 
will  make  the  blossoms  finer.  Auriculas  which  remain  in  the 
open  border,  should  be  taken  up  and  parted  every  three  years,  or 
they  will  deteriorate  and  soon  die.  Those  kept  in  pots  should 
have  an  inch  and  an  half  of  broken  potsherds  or  stones  at  the  bot- 
tom of  each  pot  to  secure  a  good  drainage:  the  soil  must  be  of  a 
medium  quality,  neither  too  clayey  nor  too  sandy  ;  and  at  the 
same  lime  be  rather  rich,  to  supply  abundant  nourishment,  and 
retain  sufficient  moisture  to  support  the  healthy  vegetation  of  the 
plant. 

This  tribe  is  certainly  a  pleasing  one,  and  in  England  its  cul- 
ture is  pursued  with  astonishing  avidity  by  many  of  the  working 


so  THE    MANUAL    OP  GARDENING. 

manufacturers — a  class  of  flora]  amateurs  unknown  in  the  United 
States.  It  is  doubtful  whether  the  Auricula  will  support  tho 
winter  in  the  latitude  of  Philadelphia,  even  in  sheltered  situa- 
tions; and  the  safer  plan  will  be  to  confine  its  culture  to  pots, 
which  may  be  removed,  on  the  approach  of  severe  weather,  to  a 
place  of  safely. 

BiGNONiA. — See  page  73. 

Begonia  Discolor  serves  to  create  a  variety,  the  foliage  being 
strangely  coloured.  The  leaves  are  green  on  the  surface  when 
fully  expanded,  but  when  young,  and  always  on  the  backs  and 
along  the  veins,  they  are  bright  red  ;  the  flowers  which  appear 
in  July,  are  pink  with  a  yellow  tuft  in  the  centre;  they  hang  in 
bunches  very  elegantly,  and  never  fade,  but  drop  oft'  when  at 
maturity  :  water  should  be  gradually  withdrawn  after  blossoming. 
The  plant  is  easily  kept  in  a  dormant  state  throughout  the  win- 
ter; indeed,  after  its  flowering  it  will  fall  to  pieces  down  to  the 
surface,  when  the  pot  should  be  placed  in  a  dry  spot  and  kept 
carefully  from  frost  and  mice;  the  latter  are  very  fond  of  the 
tubers.  In  February  it  will  come  up,  when  it  should  be  repotted 
in  a  rich  loamy  soil.  It  must  now  be  well  watered;  it  should 
daily  have  a  good  supply,  not  from  a  flat  or  saucer,  but  freely 
applied  to  the  surface  of  the  soil.  After  flowering,  small  bulbs 
appear  on  the  joints  of  the  plant,  but  not  where  the  flowers 
appeared  :  they  grow  to  the  size  of  peas  of  a  pear  shape:  these 
as  they  fall  should  be  lightly  covered  with  the  soil ;  they  will 
grow  the  next  spring,  and  form  the  future  tubers;  they  do  not 
blossom  the  first  year,  but  should  be  potted  out  two  or  three  in  a 
pot,  and  when  they  die  ofl^,  set  them  by  as  you  did  the  old  ones ; 
they  will  become  the  blooming  plants  of  the  next  season. 

Bletia  Tankervilli  produces  spikes  of  showy  flowers;  but  to 
have  it  in  high  perfection,  requires  strong  heat. 

Brunsvigia  Josefhina,  a  fine  bulb,  from  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  yields  conspicuous  rose-coloured  flowers  in  umbels. 

Cactus. — This  tribe  is  in  variety  almost  innumerable.  It  has 
been  sub-divided  by  botanists  into  several  genera  ;  many  of  them 
are  desirable  only  as  objects  of  curiosity  ;  for  of  all  the  vegetable 
creation,  they  are  certainly  most  strange.  Those  which  are 
cultivated  for  the  flowers,  are  principally  ranged  under  the  head 
of  Cereus  ;  of  which,  grandijlonts,  or  night-blooming  spcciosufi, 
speciosissimus,  akermanni,  truncatus,  jenkinsonia,  and  riissel- 
lianus,  are  the  most  showy.  They  all  require  strong  heat  to 
bloom  in  perfection,  and  rich  light  soil ;  if  watered  occasionally 
with  liquid  manure,  it  will  promote  their  growth,  and  luxuriance 
of  bloom. 

Mr.  Poinsett,  during  his  mission  to  Mexico,  procured  and  ship- 


THE  MANUAL    OP   GARDENING.  31 

ped  to  the  Bartram  Botanic  Garden,  with  praiseworthy  liberality, 
a  very  splendid  collection  of  Cacti;  but  unfortunately  many  of 
them  fell  into  ill  health,  and  it  is  feared  are  no  loncrer  to  be  found 
in  the  United  States.  The  collection  of  Mr.  J.  B.  Smith  is  now 
unquestionably  the  finest  in  this  country ;  and  great  praise  is  due 
him  for  the  indefatigable  manner  in  which  he  has  pursued  their 
accumulation  from  every  quarter,  solely  impelled  by  the  love  of 
science.  He  has,  however,  the  additional  gratification  of  seeing 
his  exertions  the  source  of  pleasure  to  all  who  have  the  opportu- 
nity to  inspect  his  houses. 

Calceolaria. — This  plant  is  delicate,  suffering  greatly  from 
the  heat  of  summer,  and  seldom  succeeds  weli,  except  in  the 
hands  of  skilful  cultivators.  The  new  hybrid  varieties  are  very 
showy,  perhaps  among  the  most  so,  of  lately  introduced  plants. 

Calla. — This  beautiful  plant,  though  most  commonly  grown 
in  pots,  is  sufficiently  hardy,  with  a  little  protection  from  wet  and 
frost,  to  stand  the  winter  in  our  borders,  where  its  large  glossy 
leaves,  and  noble  white  flower,  with  its  golden  spadix  in  the 
centre,  render  it  very  interesting.  It  may  be  propagated  by 
taking  up  the  roots  in  August  or  September,  and  separating  the 
oftsels,  planting  them  in  small  pots,  with  a  rather  sandy  light 
soil.  If  the  pots  are  taken  within  doors  in  winter,  plenty  of  light 
and  air  must  be  given,  but  not  .much  water,  of  which  it  cannot 
have  too  much  during  the  heat  of  summer.  They  should  have 
air  every  mild  day,  and  be  gradually  hardened  towards  the  mid- 
dle of  April  to  bear  the  open  air,  and  in  May  can  be  plunged,  or 
turned  out  info  the  border.  The  roots  are  thick  and  fleshy,  as  is 
the  whole  plant.  When  left  in  the  border  for  the  winter,  empty 
pots  may  be  turned  over  them  in  very  wet  weather,  or  during 
severe  frosts.  It  is  much  safer,  however,  to  remove  them  to  the 
green-house,  or  cold  pit,  during  winter,  in  which  case  they  will 
come  early  into  bloom. 

Camellia  Japonica. —  This  truly  beautiful  tribe,  which  now 
extends  to  several  hundred  varieties,  was  named  by  Linnaeus  in 
honour  of  Father  Cnmelli,  a  Jesuit,  who  introduced  it  into  Eu- 
rope in  the  year  1739.  They  are  evergreen  shrubs,  growing 
not  only  in  Japan,  but  in  China,  Cochin-China,  and  the  East 
Indies,  generally ;  and  of  all  flowers,  except  the  Rose,  is  probably 
most  admired.  The  plant  attains  an  elevation  of  forty  to  fifty 
feet  in  Indij,  but  appears  of  slower  growth  in  Europe,  and  the 
United  States;  or  else  plants  of  that  size  are  of  great  age;  here 
it  forms  a  shrub  only,  but  of  the  most  superb  appearance,  whose 
per^istent  foliage  of  a  glossy  green,  and  splendid  flowers,  place 
it  without  dispute  in  the  first  rank  among  the  plants  of  our 
green-houses.     The   greater   number  of    the   varieties,    have 


32  THE   MANUAL    OT   GARDE-VING. 

reached  us  by  the  way  of  Europe;  somo  of  those  having*  their 
orin^in  in  China;  but  the  larger  numbrr  beinjr  hybrids,  or  seed- 
linorfs,  produced  in  France  and  Britain.  The  climate  of  the 
United  States  appears  favourable  to  the  Camellia,  and  there  have 
oriofinated  here  several  truly  beautiful  varieties  ;  and  from  the 
zeal  manifested  by  amateurs,  and  professional  cultivators,  others 
niay  be  expected  to  follow.  It  is  a  plant  of  hardy  habit,  and 
will  sustain  a  slight  frost  without  serious  injury;  but  it  ia 
liable  to  disease  and  ultimate  death  in  a  green-house,  or  sitting- 
room,  where  the  temperature  greatly  varies ;  as  is  frequently 
the  case  in  dwelling-rooms,  where  the  heat  is  high  by  day,  and 
low  at  night.  Indeed  there  are  few  plants  more  susceptible  to 
change,  and  the  buds  will  from  such  transitions  frequently  become 
discoloured,  and  fall ;  thus  disappointing  the  hopes  of  the  expec- 
tant cultivator  even  when  the  plant  itself  has  apparently  sus- 
tained no  injury.  To  render  the  inflorescence  certain  and  perfect, 
the  temperature  should  be  even;  varying  as  near  as  may  be, 
within  45  to  55  degrees  of  Fahrenheit ;  a  few  degrees  either  way, 
if  the  variation  be  not  too  sudden,  is  of  no  importance.  Fresh 
air  is  also  indispensable,  and  may  be  admitted,  if  due  care  be 
observed,  even  when  the  out-door  temperature  is  somewhat 
frosty.  Spunging,  or  what  is  better,  sprinkling  the  leaves  with 
a  plant  syringe,  is  of  great  advantage,  not  only  for  appearance 
Bake,  but  to  remove  the  dust  which  would  otherwise  close  the 
pores,  and  impede  the  healthy  inspiration  and  respiration,  which, 
doubtless,  are  constantly  in  action  through  the  foliage. 

The  Camellia  is  liable  to  the  attack  of  insects,  of  which,  for- 
tunately, none  are  formidable  except  that  known  by  gardeners 
as  the  "red  spider;"  it  is  so  minute  as  scarcely  to  be  visible, 
taking  up  its  abode  on  the  under  surface  of  the  leavers  from 
which  it  is  only  to  be  dislodged  by  frequent  syringing  with  soft 
water,  and  the  utmost  care  in  the  management  of  the  plant,  to 
restore  a  healthy,  vigorous  action,  the  surest  way  to  remove  the 
intruder — for  it  only  presumes  to  introduce  itself  on  plants  which 
are  in  impaired  health.  Its  presence  may  be  detected  by  those 
not  acquainted  with  it,  by  observing  the  flaccid  texture  of  the 
leaves,  and  by  the  minute  punctures  of  a  brownish  hue  on  their 
lower  surface.  Camellias  are  repotted  immediately  after  they 
have  ceased  to  bloom,  and  before  the  leaf  buds  expand  ;  a  portion 
of  the  old  earth  should  b'i  carefully  removed  to  loosen  the  fibres 
which  may  have  wound  themselves  around  the  circumference  of 
the  ball,  as  well  as  to  make  room  for  a  larger  quantity  of  active 
soil,  in  the  pot  or  vessel  to  which  the  plant  is  about  to  be  trans- 
ferred, and  which  should  be  swnewhat  larger  than  that  from 
which  it  has  just  been  removed;  but  in  displacing  the  earth  as 
above  directed,  the  greatest  caution  is  necessary,  else  the  tender 


THE    MANUAL    OF    GARDENING,  33 

fibres  may  be  bruised,  and  disease  ensue.  Formerly,  (and  at 
the  present  day  by  some  cultivators,)  they  were  kept  in  small 
vessels,  the  roots  cramped  and  confined,  under  a  mistaken  notion 
that  much  earth  and  "elbow  room"  were  prejudicial;  experience 
has  proved  tiie  error,  and  the  finest  and  most  healthy  plants  are 
in  collections  where  reasonable  space  is  given.  Botbre  filling  in 
the  earth,  the  bottom  of  the  pot  should  be  covered  to  an  inch  or 
more  in  depth,  with  pieces  of  pots  or  very  coarse  gravel  to  act  as 
a  drain,  it  being  of  the  first  importance  that  water  should  never 
stagnate.  Immediately  after  the  plant  has  been  repotted,  it 
should  be  well  watered  and  placed  where  it  will  not  be  exposed 
to  a  current  of  air. 

The  Camellia  is  fond  of  shade  and  moisture,  but  there  is  little 
doubt  that  the  complaint  made  of  difficulty  in  its  managem^mt, 
arisps  from  over  anxiety,  and,  as  one  result,  oft-vepeatnd  and  ex- 
cessive watering.  A  neglect  to  water  is  also  attended  with  dis- 
aster, as  it  likes  constant  humidity,  but  to  a  moderate  extent  only, 
therefore,  we  repeat,  it  should  never  be  surcharged  with  water. 
In  winter  the  morning  has  been  recommended  as  the  more  fa- 
vourable time  to  water,  and  in  summer  the  evening.  During  the 
warm  months  place  them  in  rather  a  damp  situation,  where  they 
will  be  shielded  from  the  sun  during  the  heat,  and  it  may  be  the 
greater  portion  of  the  day;  syringe  them  reofularly,  and  at  inter- 
vals of  two  or  three  days,  which  will  greatly  improve  their  ap- 
pearance and  promote  health.  The  soil  in  which  they  thrive 
well,  is  a  mixture  or  compost  of  light  loam,  (created  by  decom- 
posed sod  or  turf,)  fresh  decayed  leaves  and  fresh-water  sand, 
about  equal  portions  of  loam  and  leaf  mould,  and  a  small  quantum 
of  sand  are  the  preparations.  The  varieties  are  far  too  numerous 
to  describe  in  a  work  of  such  limited  extent  as  this,  but  we  an- 
nex short  descriptions  of  a  few  select  kinds.  In  conclusion  we 
may  observe,  that  the  Camellia  has  been  pronounced  "  the  most 
beautiful  conquest"  (in  allusion  to  the  varieties  produced  by  art) 
*'  which  horticulture  has  achieved  during  the  last  century.  The 
macrnificent  form  and  appearance  of  the  shrub,  the  rare  elegance 
of  its  foliage,  the  beauty  and  size  of  the  flowers,  the  .season  when 
they  appear,  their  variety,  their  abundance,  and  their  duration, 
are  qualities  which  no  other  vegetable  possesses  in  such  an  emi- 
nent degree."  Philadelphia  has  ever  been,  since  the  introduc- 
tion of  this  plant  into  America,  its  centre  of  attraction.  Here, 
it  is  beyond  question,  larger  numbers  exist  than  may  be  found  in 
any  other  spot,  indeed  we  had  nearly  written  in  all  other  portions 
of  the  Union  combined;  independent  of  many  superb  private  col- 
lections; the  green-houses  of  Carr,  Landreth  &  Fulton,  Buist, 
Ritchie  &  Dick,  McKenzie,  Dryburg  and  oihers,  contain  many 
thousands  in  all  stages  of  their  growth,  and  happily,  at  prices 


34  THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDENING. 

which  place  this  universal  favourite  within  the  reach  of  every 
amateur. 

C.  Alba  plena. — Flower  very  large,  full,  regular,  deprived  of 
Btamins,  which  are  replaced  by  numerous  petals,  thick,  imbricated, 
milk  white,  forming  a  very  round  corolla,  four  inches  in  diameter, 
and  of  extremely  elegant  form. 

C.  Candidissima,  a  shrub  of  pretty  appearance,  vigorous,  bud 
oval,  quite  large  before  bursting  into  bloom,  scales  light  green, 
flower  very  large,  four  inches  or  more  in  diameter,  full  of  pure 
white  petals  regularly  imbricated,  and  resemble  very  much  those 
of  the  white  Camellia,  numbering  from  seventy  to  seventy-five, 
broad,  a  little  crenated  at  the  summit  and  diminish  in  width  ia 
proportion  as  they  approach  towards  the  centre. 

C.Jimbriata. — Leaves  exactly  like  those  of  the  C.  alba,  but  a 
less  vigorous  shrub ;  bud  large,  rounded  ;  scales  of  a  dark  yellow ; 
flower  three  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  full,  depressed ;  petals 
gracefully  imbricated,  and  dentated. 

C.  amnbile. — This  is  a  remarkably  fine  flower,  regularly  imbri- 
cated; the  petals  of  a  rose  colour,  shading  to  a  pink,  and  deep- 
ening, towards  the  centre,  to  a  red ;  handsome  foliagp,  flower 
three  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter.  Raised  from  seed  by  Mr. 
J,  B.  Smith  of  this  city,  one  of  the  most  successful  cultivators  of 
the  Camellia. 

C.  sassanqua  rosea,  or  multiflora. — This  is  usually  considered 
a  distinct  species.  Leaves  small,  oval,  acuminate,  of  brownish- 
green;  flowers  small  and  full;  petals  curled,  rose-colour — very 
similar  to  a  small  pompone  rose.     Very  pretty. 

C,  donkelari. — Originally  from  China,  and  a  beautiful  variety; 
of  a  vivid  red,  variegated  and  spotted  with  white;  three  rows  of 
petals,  with  the  centre  fullof  stamins;  flower  usually  four  inches 
in  diameter. 

C.  conchrflora. — Of  a  clear  red;  petals  frequently  marked 
with  while,  and  spirally  arranged  ;  leaves  of  a  pale  green,  oval, 
little  acute,  reclined  and  numerous. 

C.  Landrelhii. — This  most  beautiful  variety  was  reared  from 
seed,  at  the  establishment  of  the  Landreths,  now  conducted  by 
D.  Landreth  &  Fulton.  It  is  of  a  clear  rosy  pink,  fading  slightly 
towards  the  centre;  about  four  inches  in  diameter,  very  double, 
and  finely  imbricated;  blooms  freely;  leaves  acuminate,  ovate; 
a  plant  of  good  habit,  and  much  admired. 

C.  decora. — Leaves  dark  green,  very  glossy  ;  flower  of  a  clear 
red,  double,  four  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter;  pptal?  of  the  ex- 
terior in  three  rows,  festooned,  crenated  at  the  summit;  those  in 
the  interior,  small,  forming  a  large  centre,  containing  some  con- 
cealed Btamins. 


THE   MANUAL    OP  GARDENING.  35 

C.  incarnati,  or  Lady  Hume^s  Blush. — This  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  Camellias  l^uown.  It  is  of  a  delicate  biu?h,  and  of 
an  apparent  waxy  texture ;  the  petals  are  often  arrang-ed  hex- 
angularly,  giving  it  an  artificial  aspect;  the  foliage  easily  dis- 
tinguishable from  double  white;  the  plant  not  so  compact  in  its 
growth. 

C.  dorsetti,  or  Parthoniana. — Leaves  of  a  rich  green;  flowers 
of  a  delicate  red,  sometimes  variegated  with  white;  five  inches 
in  diameter;  the  petals  are  imbricated,  numerous,  large,  and  irre- 
gularly arranged — those  of  the  centre,  smaller. 

C.  variegata  plena. — One  of  the  first  imported  from  China, 
and  has  to  the  present  day  maintained  its  standing.  It  is  of  a 
vigorous  habit;  leaves  of  a  deep  green,  strongly  nerved;  the 
flowers  sometimes  mainly  red,  streaked  with  white — in  other 
cases,  the  white  predominates;  in  all,  numerous  stamins  are 
visible,  giving  a  sprightliness  to  its  appearance. 

C  donkelari. — Cherry  red,  variegated  and  spotted  v/ith  white; 
flowers  formed  of  three  rows  of  petals;  the  centre  filled  with 
stamins,  and  staminiferous  petals.  It  is  esteemed  a  good  va- 
riety. 

C.  PhUadelphica. — This  is  an  American,  raised  by  Mr.  J.  B. 
Smith,  to  whom  we  have  previously  referred.  It  is  variable  in 
its  habit,  sometimes  crimson,  occasionally  rosy,  and  enlivened  by 
white  spots;  the  exterior  petals  are  regular — the  inner  smaller, 
convex.     Quite  a  pleasing  addition  to  the  tribe. 

C.  Hosackia. — So  named  after  Dr.  Hosack,  of  New  York,  by 
Mr.  Floy,  with  whom  it  originated.  The  colour  is  dark  crimson  ; 
the  petals  are  much  smaller  in  the  centre  than  in  the  circumfe- 
rence. Without  the  prominent  arrangement  which  constitutes 
a  first-rate  flower,  it  is  nevertheless  desirable. 

C.  estheri. — Another  of  Mr.  J.  B.  Smith's  seedlings.  The 
flower  is  large,  mainly  white,  and  spotted,  striped  and  dotted  with 
rose.  It  is  of  the  same  class  with  eclipse,  colvillei,  &c.,  and  is 
esteemed  the  best  of  its  variety.  The  foliage  is  fine,  and  adds 
to  the  beauty  of  the  plant. 

C.  nivalis.  —  This  variety  may  not  please  all ;  but  its  pure 
white,  and  the  sprightliness  imparted  by  its  stamins,  give  it, 
we  think,  a  claim  to  be  included  in  a  collection.  We  are  not 
among  those  who  would  reject  a  camellia  because  of  its  want  of 
regularity  or  the  exhibition  of  a  stamin.  The  foliage  is  deep 
green,  the  growth  sufficiently  vigorous,  and  it  may  be  made 
valuable  as  the  producer  of  new  varieties. 

C.  speciosa. — This  is  of  the  Waratah  class;  the  exterior  or 
guard  petals  as  termed   by  gardeners  are  large  and  prominent, 


36  THE   MANDAL   OF   GARDENING. 

crimson,  striped  with  white;  the  inner  petals  irregular,  close, 
rumpled  with  spots  of  white. 

C.  speciosa. — Leaves  rounded,  slightly  acuminated,  of  a  clear 
green,  glossy,  finely  veined ;  flower  large,  beautiful,  full,  of  a 
deep  ciierry-red ;  petals  of  the  interior  in  two  or  three  rows, 
regular,  re-curved  upon  the  calix  ;  tho?e  of  the  centre  irregular, 
numerous,  close,  rumpled,  having  a  small  white  spot  upon  the 
upper  p^rt. 

C.  Elphinstonia. — Leaves  roundish,  oval,  a  little  dentated ; 
flower  large,  cherry-red,  shaded  with  carmine,  sometimes  splashed 
with  white;  heart  arched;  exterior  petals  pretty  large,  well 
arranged  in  a  cup-like  form;  those  of  the  centre,  small,  nume- 
rous, united,  presenting  a  regular  and  pleasing  sphere. 

C.  pomponia  plena. —  Leaves  acute,  recurved  downwards, 
finely  dentated,  of  a  dull  green;  shrub  vigorous;  branches  nu- 
merous, and  disposed  to  shoot  out  irregularly  ;  flower  very  large, 
full,  and  of  a  pure  white;  the  petals  of  the  circumference  are 
flat,  or  undulating ;  ihose  of  the  centre  concave  ;  red  at  the  base  ; 
occasional  shades  of  light  yellow.  This  beautiful  variety  is  not 
uniform  in  the  colour  of  its  flowers;  for,  often,  there  are  seen 
upon  the  same  plant,  red,  rose  and  white. 

C.  Welbankiana,  or  heptangularis. — Leaves  oval,  lanceolated, 
reflexed,  slightly  dentated,  of  a  yellowish-green;  flower  white, 
double,  irregular;  petals  of  the  first  row,  broad,  crenated  at  the 
summit,  grouped  in  the  centre,  as  in  imitation  of  the  union  ot 
several  flowers  contained  in  a  common  calix;  those  of  the  inte- 
rior are  smaller,  eiect,  rumpled,  intermingled  with  stamins. 

We  could  extend  the  description  to  a  great  length,  far  beyond 
the  bounds  which  this  little  book  would  warrant ;  the  young 
amateur  may  safely  order  from  those  we  have  referred  to,  or  if 
the  "  Monography  of  the  Genus  Camdlia,^^  translated  from  the 
French,  by  H.  A.  S.  Dearborn  of  Boston,  be  within  his  reach,  he 
can  have  full  information  on  all  that  relates  to  this  delightful 
tribe  of  plants.  But  so  far  as  a  choice  of  kinds  go,  it  is  better  to 
Eee  them  in  bloom,  taste  is  so  various. 

Cineraria  (the  Cape  Aster). — There  are  many  recent  addi- 
tions to  this  old  genus,  which  form  a  pleasing  variety,  blooming 
during  winter  and  spring. 

CiNNAMOMUM  CAMPHORA  (formerly  Lauras  camphora), —  is  a 
tender  evergreen  shrub  ;  the  leaves  are  strongly  impregnated  by 
a  camphorean  scent,  and  from  its  gum  the  well  known  drug, 
camphor,  is  procured. 

CiSTUs  {Rocli  Rose). — Tt  is  unfortunate  that  this  plant,  which 
is  so  great  an  ornament  to  the  parterre,  in  central  Europe,  should 


TftE    MANtTAL     OF    GARDENING.  87 

not  support  the  winter  in  this  latitude.     Here  it  requires  the 
proteclion  usually  extended  hardy  green-house  plants. 

Citrus.— (The  generic  name  for  the  Orange  tribe.)  Some 
very  petty  dwarf  varieties  exist,  well  calculated  for  parlour- 
window  culture;  they  bear  fruit  when  less  than  a  foot  in  height, 
are  very  easily  managed,  and  quite  ornamental.  The  Mandarin, 
or  Chinese  dwarf  orange,  and  the  Shaddock,  or  forbidden  fruit, 
are  figured  in  the  Floral  Magazine. 

Clematis  (or  Virgiri's  Bower). —  Of  this  plant  there  are 
several  species,  which  rank  with  green-house  plants.  Others 
which  are  hardy  will  be  found  on  page  74. 

Cobea  scandans,  produces  large  bell-shaped  flowers,  of 
changeable  hue.  It  is  wonderfully  rapid  in  growth,  covering  a 
large  surface  in  a  single  season.  It  may  be  reared  from  seed,  or 
by  cuttings. 

CoRONiLLA. — The  C.  glauca  is  on  old  green-house  plant,  and 
esteemed  as  an  early  and  abundantly  blooming  shrub;  producing 
clusters  of  yellow  pea-shaped  flowers. 

Correa;  so  named  in  honour  of  the  Abbe  Correa  de  Serra, 
for  some  years  resident  Portuguese  Minister,  to  this  country. 
There  are  several  species,  of  which,  probably,  the  most  attractive 
is  the  speciosa  figured  in  the  Floral  Magazine. 

Daphne. — The  D.  odora,  is  a  well  known  tenant  of  the  green- 
house ;  its  delicious  odour,  and  constancy  of  bloom  in  winter, 
will  ever  make  it  attractive,  however  much  we  rnay  be  dazzled 
by  flowers  of  more  pretension.  There  are  several  other  species, 
all  deserving  culture. 

Dracana  ferrea. — The  purple  leaved  Dragon  plant,  is  a 
conspicuous  object  in  a  collection ;  and  serves  to  give  variety 
and  relieve  the  eye,  when  resting  on  a  mass  of  green. 

Dianthus,  (Carnation.) — See  page  81. 

Epacis. — This  plant  has  usually  been  considered  somewhat 
difficult  to  manage  ;  it  bears  a  strong  resemblance,  in  habit  and 
appearance,  to  the  Heath ;  is  indigenous  to  New  Holland  from 
whence  we  have  several  species,  producing  beautiful  tubular- 
shaped  flowers,  some  with  high  colours,  others  pure  white. 

Erica  {Heath). — The  catalogues  of  some  European  Nursery- 
men enumerate  nearly  five  hundred  species,  and  varieties  of  the 
Erica,  principally  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  Great 
Britain,  and  the  south  of  Europe,  &c.  At  some  of  the  princely 
establishments  in  England,  ranges  of  houses  are  occupied  by 
this  tribe  alone;  and  an  uninterrupted  succession  of  flowers  is 
maintained.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  peculiar  delicacy,  almost 
retiring  modesty  of  many  of  this  genus ;  but  in  this  country  it 
4 


88  THE   MANUAL   OP   GARDENING. 

is  useless  to  attempt  the  culture  of  any  but  such  as  are  of  robust 
habit ;  the  heat  of  our  summer,  and  sudden  transition  of  tem- 
perature, proving  fatal  to  most  of  them.  The  following  named 
sorts  will  succeed,  with  care ;  the  first  is,  indeed,  quite  easily 
managed :  Mediterranean  australis,  cinerea,  capitata,  conferta, 
rubida,  plunketia,  vulgaris,  arborea,  grandtflora,  tubiJlorOf 
baccans,  cerinthoides. 

Erythrina  cRisTA-GALLi. — Thc  Cocks-comb  or  coral  plants  is 
a  great  acquisition  to  the  open  border;  when  planted  out  in  rich 
light  loam,  its  growth  is  luxuriant,  and  its  racemes  of  brilliant 
coral  papilionaceous  flowers,  are  produced  in  rapid  succession ; 
on  the  approach  of  frost  remove  it  to  some  sheltered  spot,  (a  dry 
airy  cellar  will  answer  every  purpose,)  where  it  may  remain 
dormant  until  the  frost  is  past,  and  it  is  called,  in  the  spring  or 
early  summer,  to  re-occupy  its  former  station.  Figured  in  Floral 
Magazine. 

EuoNGMus. — The  Japonicus  argenteus,  of  this  genus,  is  a 
beautiful  plant,  \\\\h  silver-edged  evergreen  leaves,  and  will  most 
fortunately  withstand  our  winter  on  dry  soil ;  as  a  single  plant, 
standing  on  the  border,  or  the  grass-plot,  it  is  a  pleasing  object, 
and  it  cannot  but  form,  we  think,  a  highly  beautiful  inside  hedge; 
it  will  also,  no  doubt,  make  a  suitable  edging  to  walks,  if  kept  well 
sheared.  It  has  not  yet  been  propagated  in  sufficient  quantity  to 
be  applied  to  these  purposes,  and  has,  until  recently,  been  kept 
wholly  as  a  green-house  plant;  but  it  is  rapidly  increasing,  and 
will  in  a  year  or  two  be  abundant. 

Ficrs. — The  F.  clastica  or  India  Rubber  Tree,  is  an  attrac- 
tive object  in  a  collection  ;  the  leaves  are  large,  coriaceous,  deep 
green,  and  polished  ;  they  are  retained  a  long  while,  the  plant 
biding  evergreen. 

-'Fuchsia. — The  Ladies'  ear-drop,  has  long  been  introduced, 
especially  the  coccinea,  which  still  remains  the  most  attractive 
species.  There  are  a  great  many  hybrid  varieties,  and  very 
beautiful  ones  too.  Among  the  more  conspicuous  are :  globosu^ 
elegans,fulgens,  longijiora-superba.  They  are  easily  managed 
if  kept  screened  from  the  intense  heat  of  summer,  and  regularly 
watered. 
Gelsemium  nitidum. — See  page  74. 

GoRTERiA. — The  ringens  and  pavonia  of  this  genus,  are 
dwarf  plants,  yielding  rather  gaudy  flowers,  which  open  with  the 
sun,  and  close  at  night. 

Heliotropium  Peruvianum  and  Corymbosum  are  highly  odo- 
riferous plants,  heretofore  kept  nearly  exclusively  in  the  hot- 
house, or  half  starved  in  the  green-house.  It  requires  strong 
heat  to  bloom  freely,  but  its  principal  value  is  when  plunged  or 
planted  out  during  summer  as  a  border  flower ;  in  light  rich  soil. 


&f 


THE   MANUAL   OP  GARDENING.  89 

and  sunny  exposure,  it  will  grow  luxuriantly,  and  bloom  uninter- 
ruptedly until  the  approach  of  frost.     It  should  be  welcomed  by 
all  as  a  delightful  inmate  of  the  garden. 
Htdrangia. — See  Hardy  Shrubs,  page  43. 

Illicium. — Anniseed  Tree.  The  several  species  of  this  plant 
are  very  easily  kept,  and  though  not  remarkably  showy,  are 
worth  notice,  on  account  of  the  strong  anniseed-like  fragrance  of 
the  foliage  when  bruised.  I,  Jtoridanum  resembles  the  sweet- 
scented  shrub,  in  flower,  so  much  so  as  to  be  mistaken  tor  it  by  a 
superficial  observer. 

Jamb<«a  vulgaris,  formerly  called  Eugenia  Jambos  or  Rose 
Apple^  produces  fruit  of  fragrance  not  unlike  the  rose;  the  foli- 
age is  evergreen,  and  as  it  is  a  hardy  green-house  plant,  is  de- 
serving notice. 

Kennedia.  a  climbing  plant,  with  evergreen  leaves,  and 
small  pea-shaped  flowers,  of  high  colour ;  some  blue,  others 
crimson,  and  scarlet.  !.:  =  :'" 

Lagerstrcemia  {Crape  Myrtle),  An  exceedingly  beautiful 
plant,  so  hardy  as  almost  to  support  the  winter  of  the  middle 
states.  It  may  be  kept  in  any  dry,  airy  cellar,  under  the  stage 
of  a  green-house,  or  similar  situation;  and  will  generally  bloom 
in  profusion,  and  for  many  successive  weeks,  during  the  summer 
and  early  autumn ;  there  are  several  varieties,  pink,  scarlet,  and 
purple;  the  flowers  are  borne  in  spikes,  which  gradually  expand, 
producing  an  uninterrupted  succession.  In  the  southern  states, 
where  this  plant  attains  the  height  of  fifteen  or  eighteen  feet, 
with  full  round  head,  it  is  a  brilliant  object  when  in  bloom.  3 
^  LiNUM. — There  are  several  pretty  species,  of  this  genus; 
ascyrifolium  wilh  blue  and  white  flowers,  and  tyginum,  with 
large  yellow  flowers,  are  the  finest;  the  latter  is  figured  in  the 
Floral  Magazine. 

Magnolia. — ^Two  species  of  this  plant  require  the  protection 
of  the  house.  M.  pumila,  and  M.  fuscata,  are  both  highly 
odoriferous ;  others,  which  are  hardy,  are  described  at  page  63. 

Manettia  glabra,  (or  cordifolia^  as  it  is  indifferently  called,) 
is  a  climbing  plant,  producing  scarlet  tubular-shaped  flowers,  in 
great  profusion  throughout  the  summer.  Its  beauty  is  more 
fully  developed  when  planted  on  a  rich  border ;  from  whence  it 
may  be  removed,  on  the  approach  of  frost,  to  a  place  of  security. 

Metrosideros. — A  New  Holland  genus,  yielding  scarlet  flow- 
ers, with  protruding  stamins,  which  with  their  peculiar  arrange- 
ment, have  given  this  plant  the  common  name  of  bottle-brush. 
There  are  several  species,  of  which  semperjlorens  is,  perhaps, 
the  best 


0  THE   MAI7UAL   OF   GARDENING. 

MiMULus  MoscHATUS,  Musk  Plant,  is  a  small  species  of  the 
Monkey  Flower,  which  has  rapidly  risen  into  favour  for  ifl 
beauty  and  strong  njusky  fragrance:  it  has  the  great  advantage 
of  not  requiring  much  light,  and  of  thriving  in  pots  in  our  win- 
dows. It  is  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots,  or  by  cuttings, 
which  will  strike  readily  if  taken  off  about  three  inches  long 
below  a  joint,  and  placed  under  a  g^lass,  giving  water  occasion- 
ally. When  they  have  struck,  the  glass  must  be  withdrawn 
gradually.  They  like  shade  and  water:  if  not  sheltered  they 
will  die  down  in  winter,  but  shoot  up  again  in  the  spring. 
There  are  some  larger  varieties  extremely  beautiful. 

Myrtus. — The  Myrtle  has  long  been  a  favourite  evergreen 
in  the  green-house ;  the  flowers  though  plain  are  agreeable,  and 
the  fragrance  of  the  foliage,  when  passed  through  the  hand,  is 
generally  admired.  M.  tomentosa  is  rather  conspicuous  than 
otherwise  from  the  variations  in  shade,  which  the  flowers  assume 
in  their  several  stages. 

Nerium,  {Oleander.') — Of  this  plant  there  are  numerous  spe- 
cies, or  perhaps  more  properly  speaking,  varieties.  N.  Splen- 
danSy  macrophylla,  luted,  striata^  are  each  desirable.  The 
foliage  is  in  itself  ornamental,  and  as  they  are  easily  kept,  quite 
an  acquisition  to  a  collection  of  hardy  green-house  plants. 

Passiflora.  —  The  Passion  Flower  is  an  old  and  widely 
known  plant,  of  which  the  ccerula,  or  common  blue  species,  is 
extensively  cultivated.  There  is  a  hybrid,  princeps-coeruleOf 
with  blue  and  scarlet  flowers  (see  figure  in  Floral  Magazine,) 
beside  several  others,  some  with  small  and  very  neat  flowers, 
others  with  gaudy  ones.  The  P.  ccerulea  if  planted  on  a  rich 
border  and  in  a  warm  situation,  will  run  wildly,  and  cover  a 
large  space.  Before  cold  weather  re-pot  it,  and  place  it  under 
shelter. 

Pelargonium,  (Geranium.) —  These  are  great  and  deserved 
favourites.  Every  one  who  has  the  least  taste  for  flowers  pro- 
cures a  Geranium ;  the  varieties  are  almost  endless.  It  is  said 
the  number  considerably  exceeds  a  thousand,  of  course  many 
must  closely  resemble  others,  so  much  so  as  scarcely  to  be  dis- 
tinguished. Within  a  few  years  a  large  number  of  beautiful 
hybrid  seedlings  have  been  produced,  which  as  far  exceed  the  old 
varieties,  as  can  readily  be  conceived.  The  colours  are  gener- 
ally brilliant;  in  some  a  single  shade  predominates,  others  are 
curiously  blotched,  striped  and  shaded  in  an  unique  manner. 

The  whole  family  are  generally  kept  in  pots  the  year  round  ; 
but  where  it  can  be  avoided  this  is  injudicious,  a  better  method 
at  least  with  the  hardier  sorts  will  be  pointed  out  as  we  pro- 
ceed. The  pots  generally  employed  are  too  small  to  allow  the 
root  sufficient  room  to  expand ;  and  consequently  the  flowers  do 


TtlE    MANUAL    OP   GARDENING.  '^l 

not  attain  that  size  and  beauty,  nor  are  they  so  abundant  as  they 
would  be,  if  the  plants  were  turned  out  during  the  summer 
months  into  an  open  border,  the  earth  of  which  is  light,  contain- 
ing a  mixture  of  loam  and  a  little  well-rotted  manure:  here  they 
will  flower  in  the  greatest  perfection  during  the  summer;  and 
all,  excepting  a  very  few  of  the  most  delicate  kinds,  will  be  pro- 
fited by  this  treatment. 

As  Geraniums  strike  easily  during  the  stimmer,  cuttings 
should  be  potted  early  that  they  may  gain  strength  to  bear  the 
winter;  and  these  will  supply  the  places  of  those  which  have 
grown  too  luxuriantly  to  re-pot  in  the  autumn.  Young  plants 
are  well  known  to  flower  best ;  and  therefore,  to  procure  them, 
cuttings  should  be  taken  at  the  junction  of  the  old  and  new 
wood,  just  below  a  bud,  as  it  is  out  of  this  bud  the  root  will 
strike  :  cut  smoothly,  and  do  not  bruise  or  leave  the  bark  jagged. 
A  rather  warm  situation  is  desirable  to  facilitate  their  growth, 
or  place  over  them  a  hand-glass ;  a  moderate  supply  of  water  ia 
requisite,  too  much  would  rot  them.  The  pots  containing  them 
must  not  be  placed  in  saucers  or  pans,  but  a  good  draining  must 
be  allowed  :  standing  them  on  cinder  ashes  is  good.  Indeed  no 
pots  should  be  placed  in  any  vessel  to  retain  the  water,  which 
should  freely  run  through  to  wash  away  the  slime  and  excremen- 
titious  matter  thrown  off  by  the  root.  If  the  cuttings  are  put  in 
the  open  ground,  they  must  be  shaded  with  a  mat  during  the  heat 
of  the  day;  many  of  the  leaves  (not  all)  should  be  taken  off,  and 
all  flower  buds  carefully  removed.  They  will  speedily  begin  to 
grow,  and  when  they  are  well  struck  they  should  be  placed  ia 
separate  pots,  housed  at  the  first  approach  of  frost,  and  they  will 
be  ready  to  supply  the  place  of  those  which  may  become  over- 
grown. 

Geraniums  may  be  propagated  by  seed,  which  generally  is 
produced  in  July ;  it  should  be  gathered  when  ripe,  and  imme- 
diately sowed  in  a  pot,  and  plunged  in  a  hot-bed  or  placed  under 
a  glass;  and  in  about  three  weeks  after  coming  up,  should  be 
potted  separately,  and  by  autumn  will  be  fine  plants. 

Geraniums  flower  much  more  vigorously  in  young  than  old 
wood,  therefore  the  most  successful  cultivators  "  head"  them,  as 
it  is  termed,  or  shorten  the  shoots  (frequently  cutting  quite  close 
to  the  wood  of  the  previous  year)  in  the  Autumn.     In  Febru- 
ary, shift  them  into  roomy  pots  and  rich  light  loamy  compost; 
when  they  are  growing  freely,  give  water  liberally;  but  when  in 
a  dormant  state  it  should  be  applied  with  care  and  moderation. 
"  '  The  subjoined  catalogue  may  aid  those  who  cannot  make  a 
personal  selection  from  the  collections  kept  for  sale: 
Americana,  white,  dark  spots. 
Countess  of  Munster,  white. 
Admiral  Codrington,  blush. 
4* 


4Si  THE   MANUAL    OF    QARDENINQ. 

Capitatum  superbum,  blush. 

Ada,  white,  spotted. 

Belvidere,  crimson,  with  dark  spots. 

Clarissirnimum,  crimson,  dark  stripes. 

Conqueror,  ro»e,  large. 

Macranthon,  white,  large. 

Duchess  of  Clarence,  white. 

Negro  Boy,  very  dark. 

Dennis'  Perfection,  dark  rose. 

Garth's  Perfection,  rosy. 

Diadematum,  rose. 

Amelia,  blush. 

Celestia,  blush. 

Pictum,  white. 

Lilac  Perfection,  lilac. 

Decora,  pink. 

Incarnatum  superbum,  pink. 

Black  Rover,  dark  crimson. 

Paragon,  red. 

Purple  Perfection,  bright  purple. 

Diversum,  blush  red. 

Queen  of  Whites,  fine  white. 

Grandissinia,  dark  red. 

Gazelle,  rose. 

Memnon,  bright  scarlet. 

JVIicans,  white,  striped. 

Augustissimum,  dark  red. 

Agrippina,  red,  dark  spots. 

SuperLissimum,  crimson. 

Lord  Denman,  purple. 

ti  Plumbago,  Leadwort. — The  P.  capensis  is  a  beautiful  border 
plant,  and  yields  a  profusion  of  its  lead-coloured  flowers  through- 
out the  summer;  when  planted  out  or  plunged  for  the  warm 
BPason  in  a  favourable  situation,  it  is  much  more  pleasing  than 
when  confined.  It  is  readily  kept  during  the  winter,  among  the 
hardy  green-house  plants. 

Rhododendron,  Mountain  Laurel. — The  East  Indian  plant 
of  this  genus,  R.  arhoreum,  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  of 
vegetables.  The  flowers  are  of  a  deep,  brilliant  crimson,  made 
more  distinct  by  dark  spots;  and  those  who  have  only  seen  the 
American  varieties,  can  form  but  a  very  imperfect  idea  of  the 
splendour  of  this  species.  Many  hybrid  varieties  have  been  pro- 
duced from  seed,  some  of  which  almost  divide  our  admiration 
with  the  arboreum,  and  all  are  among  the  more  showy  flowera 
of  the  green-house. 


THE   MANUAL    OP   OARDENINQ.  43 

Tecoma  Capensis,  formerly  Bignonia  CapensiSj  is  a  pleasing 
plant,  and  enlivens  a  collection  by  its  tubular  orange  flowers  da- 
ring winter;  figured  in  the  Floral  Magazine. 

Templetonia  Retusa,  and  glanea,  yield  scarlet  pea-shaped 
flowers,  and  deserve  notice. 

Thea,  the  Tea  of  China. — Of  this  plant  there  are  two  varie- 
ties in  our  green-houses,  said  to  be  the  ones  grown  in  India  for 
the  production  of  tea:  T.  viridis  and  T.  bohea.  They  are  ever- 
green shrubs,  bearing  single  white  flowers,  with  yellow  stamins, 
and  as  an  object  of  curiosity  are  well  placed  in  a  collection. 

Verbena. — Almost  any  person  who  can  boast  a  foot  square  of 
garden  ground,  or  a  window-ledge  on  which  to  stand  a  flower- 
pot, has  a  Verbena ;  and  richly  does  it  deserve  its  popularity. 
Constant  in  bloom,  rich  in  hue,  and  of  divers  colours  and  shades, 
scarcely  one  being  absent,  it  constitutes  in  itself  a  flower  garden ; 
it  is  withal  so  free  in  growth,  that  care  or  culture  is  almost  su- 
perflous. 

Viburnum  Tints,  or  Laurustinus,  is  an  evergreen  shrub,  not 
quite  hardy  enough  to  withstand  the  winter,  but  readily  kept  in 
a  light  airy  cellar,  or  room,  where  severe  frost  does  not  enter. 
The  flowers  are  quite  fragrant  and  agreeable ;  for  nosegays  in 
the  winter  it  is  particularly  adapted,  and  cultivated  by  the  florists 
for  that  purpose. 


CHAPTER  III. 

HARDY  ORNAMENTAL  SHRUBS.— The  shrubbery 
yields  a  larger  return  for  the  expenditure  of  time  and  labour, 
than  any  other  department  of  the  garden.  It  demands  compara- 
tively little  attention,  and  is  prodigal  in  its  acknowledgment  of 
.the  care  bestowed. 

"'"  After  the  grounds  have  been  once  properly  planted,  observing  to 
place  the  shrubs  of  vigorous  growth,  and  stately  haibit,  in  the  rear 
of  the  borders,  and  more  distant  quarters  of  the  srarden,  giving  to 
each  a  liberal  allowance  of  good  garden  mould  (for  further  direc- 
tions on  transplanting,  see  page  16,)  and  carefully  removing  fronn 
the  vicinity  of  its  roots,  the  inert  clayey  loam  thrown  out  of 
cellars,  and  which  is  not  unfrequently  in  the  city,  used  to  fill  up 
the  garden-plot  to  the  desired  level,  for  on  such  soil  it  will  be  in 
vain  to  plant;  little  will  remain  to  be  done,  further  than  to  re- 
strain the  excessive  growth  of  some,  by  shortening  exuberant 
shoots,  thinning  out  superflous  wood,  and  to  encourage  by  kindly 


44  THE   MANUAL   OP  GARDENING. 

treatment,  the  lagging  energy  of  others.  Occasionally,  a  branch 
which  has  become  unsightly,  has  taken  a  wrong  direction,  or  be- 
come exhausted  by  reason  of  successive  bloom,  may  need  removal. 
Those  which  have  a  trailing  habit,  may  require  partial  support, 
which  should,  however,  be  given  as  imperceptibly  as  possible; 
(good  taste  will  indicate  the  propriety  of  keeping  the  stakes  and 
frames  for  this  purpose,  as  subordinate  as  practicable ;)  vines  and 
creepers,  whether  on  arbours,  trellis,  or  trained  against  fences, 
may  need  occasional  aid,  in  the  proper  direction  of  the  branches. 
Some,  as  the  Hydrangea  for  instance,  will  have  the  bloom 
greatly  prolonged,  if  somewhat  shaded,  either  by  a  living  screen, 
or  one  which  may  be  applied  or  removed  at  pleasure. 

The  beauty  of  the  shrubbery  will  be  enhanced  if  every  evi- 
dence of  declining  nature  is  carefully  removed  ;  to  this  end,  all 
decayed  leaves,  and  faded  flowers,  and  all  seed  pods,  when  they 
are  not  in  themselves  handsome,  should  be  plucked.  The  walks 
should  be  kept  scrupulously  clean;  not  a  weed  or  spear  of  grass 
suffered  to  show  its  head,  and  the  edging  as  neatly  trimmed  and 
regulated,  as  if  the  operation  were  but  yesterday  performed. 
The  surface  of  the  earth  should  be  neatly  raked  from  time  to 
time,  and  the  grass,  whether  the  shrubs  stand  on  it  singly  or  in 
groups,  should  be  kept  closely  sheared.  If  the  grasses  are  of 
the  proper  description  (the  native  blue  and  green  grass,  and  white 
clover  mixed,  are  among  the  best  kinds)  they  will  assume  by  this 
treatment,  a  carpet-like  surface,  and  verdant  hue.  In  this  coun- 
try, however,  it  may  be  more  prudent  to  mow  less  frequently, 
during  the  heat  of  summer,  than  is  the  practice  in  England, 
where  the  humid  climate  produces  free  vegetation,  even  at  mid- 
summer. 

There  are  some  shrubs  usually  classed  as  hardy,  which  may  be 
benefited  by  partial  shelter  during  the  winter,  which  is  better 
afforded  by  inverted  kegs,  barrels,  &c.,  containing  a  portion  of 
loose  straw,  than  by  closely  binding  and  matting  the  plant,  a 
method  seldom  attended  with  good  results,  as  the  circulation 
of  the  air  is  impeded,  and  the  immature  wood,  and  decaying 
leaves,  promote  fermentation.  On  the  arrival  of  spring  the  shrul^ 
bery  grounds  should  be  dug,  and  made  mellow  by  the  spade;  if 
the  earth  be  not  sufficiently  rich,  manure  may  be  applied  accord- 
ing to  the  judgment  of  the  cultivator;  there  is  little  danger  of 
doing  mischief  with  it  in  this  department.  If  the  plants  are 
crowded,  so  as  to  preclude  a  developement  of  their  beauty,  use 
the  knife  freely,  and  if  necessary,  entirely  remove  such  as  may 
;be  of  the  least  interest. 

Amygdalis  nana  {Dwarf  Almond). — This  is  a  pretty  early 
flowering  shrub,  of  low  stature,  and  presents  a  pleasing  appear- 
ance when  in  bloom.    The  grub-worm  is  its  especial  enemy,  and 


THE   MANUAL    Or   GARDENmO.  45 

to  prevent  its  depredations  an  examination  of  the  root,  at  the 
junction  of  the  root  and  stem,  from  time  to  time,  is  needful. 

AucuBA  Japonica  {Japan  Gold  Tree),  is  an  evergreen,  the 
foliage  blotched  or  spotted;  it  will  withstand  the  winter  on  dry 
soil  and  in  partial  shade. 

jEsculus  macrostachya  (Dwarf  Horse-Chestnut). — The  long 
spikes  of  white  and  pink  flowers,  borne  by  this  variety  of  the 
horse-chestnut,  recommend  it  for  a  place  on  the  rear  of  borders, 
or  other  situations,  where  room  may  be  found  for  a  bushy  shrub. 
The  flowers  commence  expanding  at  the  base  of  the  spike,  or 
flower  stem,  and,  as  the  progression  is  gradual,  it  is  a  long  while 
in  bloom. 

Azalea.  {Wood  Honeysuckle). — This  is,  unquestionably,  one 
of  the  most  magnificent  of  American  shrubs.  The  varieties  are 
numerous,  and  embrace  almost  every  shade  of  colour,  including 
pure  white,  from  light  yellow  to  brilliant  flame.  It  thrives  best 
partially  screened  from  the  sun's  rays,  and  demands  a  peculiar 
soil,  easily  compounded  by  a  mixture  of  surface  earth  from 
woodland,  and  decomposed  turf,  or  sods,  in  about  equal  propor- 
tions. The  two  earliest  collections  of  this  splendid  shrub,  were 
made  at  the  Bartram  Botanic  Gardens,  and  at  the  Landreth 
Nurseries,  where,  it  is  probable,  the  finest  specimens  in  a  culti- 
vated state  still  exist. 

Berberis  vulgaris  {Berberry). — A  native  shrub  in  England, 
kept  in  the  garden  for  the  sake  of  the  long,  pendent,  bright  red 
berries  which  it  bears,  and  which  are  used  for  tarts  or  pickling: 
it  makes  good  hedges,  requires  no  pruning ;  and  is  adapted  for 
any  soil.  It  is  propagated  either  by  seeds  or  layers ;  the  latter 
should  not  be  separated  from  the  parent  tree  for  three  years. 
The  suckers  will  bear  transplanting. 

B.  aquifolium,  otherwise  Mahonia  aqui,  is  a  low  growing 
American  shrub,  first  discovered  by  Lewis  and  Clark,  on  their 
tour  to  the  Pacific.  The  flowers,  which  are  of  a  bright  orange 
colour,  are  borne  on  upright  spikes,  a  habit  very  distinct  from  the 
common  Berberry. — Altogether  a  desirable  shrub,  and  still  quite 
rare. 

CoLUTEA  ARBORESCENs  {Bladder  Senna). — There  are  four 
species  of  this  shrub.  The  first  {Colutea  Arborescens),  a  rative 
of  Italy,  and  the  Levant,  grows  ten  or  twelve  feet  high,  bearing 
a  yellow  flower  all  the  summer ;  the  seeds  are  contained  in  a 
bladder-like  pod,  and  are  seen  on  the  tree  with  the  flowers.  It 
likes  a  chalky  soil,  and  is  propagated  by  layers  or  by  seeds, 
which  must  be  sown  in  an  old  hot-bed,  or  a  rich  and  rather  shady 
border;  they  must  not  be  planted  out  till  the  following  spring* 
they  require  to  have  their  young  shoots  shortened  to  eight  or 
ten  inches,  or  they  will  soon  grow  too  straggling. 


46  THE   MANUAL   OP   GARDENING. 

The  Cruenta  comes  from  the  Levant,  and  is  similar  to  the 
former:  it  bears  a  yellowish-red  flower  in  June  and  July. 

The  scarlet  flowered  (Frutescens)  blooms  in  July,  growing 
about  four  feet  high. — These  two  are  propagated  in  a  similar 
manner  to  the  first. 

CoRCHORL^s  Japonicus  (Globc-jftower). — This  beautiful  yellow 
shrub,  whose  dandelion-like  flowers  appear  early  in  the  year,  is 
often  trained  to  walls  or  trellises;  it  looks  best  when  inter- 
mingled with  some  oiher  shrub,  such  as  the  China  Rose,  &:c.,  as 
the  branches  are  rather  bare  of  foliage.  It  is  easily  propagated 
by  layers :  cuttings  do  not  strike  readily  unless  under  glass.  |t 
thrives  best  in  a  light  rich  loam.  '  "'^ 

CratjEgl's  oxycantha  (var.  rubro-pleno,  and  albo-pleno).— 
The  double  flowermg  red  and  white  Hawthorn,  are  worth  culture 
for  the  agreeable  perfume,  which  renders  the  thorn  a  universal 
favourite. 

"  The  hawthorn  hush,  with  seats  beneath  the  shade, 
For  talking  age,  and  whispering  lovers  made." — Goldsmith. 

The  multiplex  character  of  the  flowers  of  these  varieties,  con- 
stitute them  objects  of  considerable  beauty. 

Cydonia  Japonica,  or  Pyrvs  Japonica,  as  it  is  more  populatly 
known,  is  a  robust,  hardy  shrub,  which  frequently  expands  its 
flowers,  whilst 

"  Winter  lingers  in  the  lap  of  Spring." 

There  are  two  varieties,  the  scarlet  and  the  blush  or  white* 
Its  precocious  habit  of  flowering,  must  ever  render  it  a  desirable 
fixture  in  the  shrubbery,  or  parterre;  indeed,  there  has  been  no 
out-door  plant  introduced  for  many  years,  which  has  been  so 
generally  sought  by  the  admirers  of  Flora.  Both  varieties  are 
figured  in  the  Floral  Magazine. 

Gytissus  Laburnum.  Golden  Chair. — A  handsome  tree  to 
stand  in  the  front  yard  of  a  house;  the  pendent  yellow  blossoms 
forming  an  interesting  object  as  seen  from  the  windows  during 
May,  when  it  flowers.  It  looks  well  hanging  over  lilacs,  as  it 
blossoms  at  the  same  time:  it  is  very  hardy,  and  requires  no 
pruning  except  to  keep  it  out  of  the  way  of  other  shrubs,  and 
should  never  have  its  shoots  shortened.  It  propagates  itself  by 
seed,  of  which  it  produces  abundance.  Some  persons  allow 
their  children  to  thread  these  beautiful  black  seeds,  as  beads; 
but  this  is  dangerous,  as  they  are  poisonous. 

Calycanthus  Floridus,  Stveet  Scented  Shrub.  —  This  is 
known  to  all  acquainted  in  the  least  with  plants,  and  is  inserted 
here  as  a  remembrancer  to  those  who  may  be  making  a  collec- 


THE   MANUAL    OP   GARDENING.  47 

tion.  Its  fragrant  strawberry-scented  flowers  are  ever  hailed  as 
pleasing  harbingers  of  returning  summer. 

Cercis  Canadensis,  Judas  Tree,  or  Red  Bud,  is  one  of  the 
earliest  ornaments  of  the  American  landscape,  and  gives  tone 
and  sprightliness  to  the  naked  forest,  blooming  as  it  does  before 
a  leaf  is  visible :  on  that  account  it  is  desirable,  and  should  be 
planted  within  sight  of  the  windows,  that  it  may  be  enjoyed  by 
those  who  cannot  support  the  cutting  winds  of  spring. 

Chionanthus  Virginica,  Fringe  Tree. — An  American  shrub, 
or  dwarf  tree,  of  great  beauty ;  the  flowers  are  white,  and  han^ 
like  fringe,  hence  its  popular  name.  It  pro<?jces  a  highly  pic- 
turesque eflfect,  and  is  universally  admired. 

>  Daphne,  cneorum. — A  handsome  little  evergreen;  a  native 
of  Switzerland.  It  is  sometimes  called  the  Garland  Jiower,  and 
is  justly  said  to  be  one  of  the  most  lovely  and  fragrant  plants 
known  in  Britain.  It  is  rather  difficult  to  cultivate,  and  requires 
to  be  planted  in  an  airy  exposed  situation,  in  a  soil  composed  of 
equal  parts  of  light  loam  and  peat.  It  may  be  procured  for  a 
very  trifling  sum.  It  is  quite  a  dwarf,  and  produces  a  number 
of  clusters  of  pretty  pink  or  purple  blossoms,  from  April  to  Sep- 
tember: it  is  applicable  for  rock  work.  D.  Mezereum,  a  very 
pretty  plant,  about  three  feet  high;  it  blossoms  early  in  April, 
sometimes  in  February — the  flowers  are  red,  with  a  purplish 
tint.  The  young  leaves  shoot  just  beyond  the  blossoms;  which, 
being  of  a  fresh  pale  green,  produce  a  striking  contrast  and 
pleasing  effect.  It  is  propagated  by  cuttings,  or  by  the  ^eeds 
which  frequently  sow  themselves,  dropping  from  the  red  berries 
which  succeed  the  flower. 

Deutzia  Scabra. — This  is  a  pretty  shrub,  of  dwarfish  habit, 
producing  white  flowers  in  a  wreath-like  form,  resembling  the 
Mock  Orange.  It  will  succeed  in  any  open  situation,  and  ordi- 
nary garden  ground. 

GoRDONiA  PuBESCENS,  Franklinia. — It  is  a  trite  saying,  that 
"  a  thing  to  be  valued  must  be  far  fetched."  Such  is  especially 
the  case  with  flowers.  Whilst  our  fields  and  forests  abound  with 
the  most  exquisite  productions  of  Flora,  we  pass  them  by  in 
search  of  foreign  favourites ; 

"  And  heedless  by  the  lily  stray, 
That  blossoms  in  our  path." 

The  following  extract  from  Landreth's  Floral  Magazine,  may 
introduce  the  Franklinia,  to  the  readers  of  the  Manual, 

"There  are  few,  if  any,  of  the  larger  shrubs,  indigenous  to  the 
United  States,  that  present  stronger  claims  to  admiration  than 
the  Gordonia  pubescens.    Although  growing  of  choice  under  the 


48  THE   MANUAL   OP  GARDENING. 

Durnin<T  sun  of  Georgia,  it  will  nevertheless  withstand  the  winter 
of  far  higher  latitudes,  blooming  in  its  season  with  untiring  con- 
stancy, and  imparling  a  delicious  perfume. 

•♦  Many  years  have  elapsed  since  its  introduction  to  the  notice 
of  botanists,  by  the  late  venerable  William  Bartram,  who  dis- 
covered it,  we  believe,  on  the  banks  of  the  Altamaha,  and,  with 
truly  patriotic  feelings,  named  it  in  honour  of  his  country's  bene- 
factor, Dr.  Franklin.  It  was  not,  however,  destined  to  retain 
the  appellation,  subsequent  examination  of  its  structure  identifying 
it  as  properly  belonging  to  a  pre-existing  genus. 

"  The  Gordonia,  thus  named  after  James  Gordon,  an  eminent 
British  nurseryman  of  the  last  century,  embraces  but  three  spe- 
cies; one  indigenous  to  the  Island  of  Jama-ica;  that  at  present  in 
our  view;  and  the  Lasianthus,  also  a  native  of  this  country.' 
Both  the  American  species  are  truly  beautiful ;  but  the pubescens 
is  particularly  so,  and  certainly  ranks  among  the  most  desirable 
shrubs,  or  minor  trees,  whether  native  or  exotic.  It  attains  the 
height  of  twenty-eight  to  thirty  feet ;  the  trunk  and  stem  invested 
with  a  smooth,  somewhat  angular  bark ;  the  leaves  alternate, 
broad,  lanceolate-ovate,  slightly  membranaceous,  the  upper  sur- 
faces polished,  and  of  a  lively  green,  the  under  side  covered  with 
a  silvery  pubescence,  or  down,  which  furnishes  its  specific  cog- 
nomen: on  the  arrival  of  frost,  they  assume  a  reddish  hue,  and 
eventually  become  highly  coloured,  presenting  a  pleasing  con- 
trast to  the  sombre  foliage  of  autumn. 

"  The  flowers  are  about  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter;  of  a 
cream-white  colour,  and  agreeable  odour,  supported  on  very  short 
foot-stalks,  giving  them  the  appearance  of  being  nearly  sessile, 
or  resting  immediately  on  the  branches. 

"In  the  latitude  of  Philadelphia,  it  commences  flowering  in 
June  and  July;  each  branch  terminates  with  a  cluster  of  buds; 
and  a  twig  thus  furnished,  presents  the  flowers  in  every  stage  of-' 
their  existence,  expanding  in  regular  succession  .until. Qctpb^r, 
and  frequently  November.  '  ^^  'i  i^-^f, . 

"  It  roots  freely  when  '  layered,'  but  to  insure  success  should 
remain  undisturbed  for  two  seasons;  cuttings  of  ripened  wood,  will 
occasionally  root,  but  layering  is  preferable.  ,  >  ],;  --ift. 

"  The  soil  it  most  delights  in,  is  of  light  loam  or  a  peatty  tex- 
ture ;  but  when  once  established,  it  will  grow  readily  in  any. 
Our  standard  specimen  has  attained  an  elevation  of  twenty  feet, 
and  promises  still  greater  altitude. — Thousands  of  its  chaste  flow- 
ers are  annally  exhibited,  yielding  a  powerful  perfume  for  the 
gratification  of  its  numerous  admirers." 

Ha^esia,  Snowdrop  Tree.  —  The  two  species,  diptera,  two- 
winged,  and  tetraptera,  four-winged,  are  both  highly  ornamental 
American  shrubs;  but,  like  the  preceding  plant, almost  unknown 


THE   MANUAL    OF    GARDENINQ.  49 

in  a  cultivated  form  in  the  United  States.  The  abundance  of 
their  flowers,  and  their  unsullied  purity,  made  more  apparent  by 
the  protruding  golden  anthers,  excite  our  admiration,  and  entitle 
the  Halesia  to  a  prominent  position.  Its  extreme  hardiness, 
and  easy  culture,  is  another  commendation  to  notice. 

Hibiscus  Syriacus,  popularly  termed  Allliea^  is  known  to  all ; 
it  is  referred  to  here,  to  direct  attention  to  certain  varieties  not 
generally  known;  viz.,  double  white,  double  purple,  silver 
stripnd  leaved,  and  variegata-superba,  a  fine  seedling  variety 
of  the  old  variegated,  which  originated,  it  is  understood,  at 
Philadelphia.  For  the  rear  of  borders,  or  screens  to  un- 
sightly objects,  the  Attheas  are  well  adapted  :  hardiness,  quick 
growth,  and  long  continuance  in  bloom,  are  qualities  vforthy  of 
regard. 

Hydrangea  kortensis,  bear  the  open  air  very  well,  tliough 
they  are  olten  kept  in  pot?,  because  highly  ornamental.  The  soil 
most  suited  lor  them  is  maiden  loam,  taken  from  a  field  or  com- 
mon;  add  to  this  well-rotted  manure:  they  require  abundant 
watering.  Cuttings  of  the  young  shoots  will  strike  readily  under 
a  hand-glass  during  the  month  of  May.  Pots  containing  them, 
if  well  exposed  to  the  sun  during  the  autumnal  months,  may  be 
kept  through  the  winter  in  cellars  with  little  or  no  water;  but 
Ihey  must  be  brought  out  early  in  the  spring  and  re-potted,  re- 
moving as  much  of  the  old  earth  as  possible  without  injuring  the 
roots.  The  weaker  shoots  should  be  cleared  away  from  the  old 
plants,  which  will  cause  the  flowers  to  be  larger  and  of  a  finer 
colour.  When  in  bloom  they  should  be  sheltered  from  the  mid- 
day sun,  else  the  flowers  will  flag  and  prematurely  fade.  The 
H.  quercifolia  is  an  American  plant,  and  entitled  to  regard  ; 
though  not  so  shovv'y  as  the  Chinese,  it  is  certainly  very  graceful 
and  picturesque. 

Hyrpeicum.  St.  Johnh  loort. — There  are  numerous  species  of 
this  genus,  several  of  which  are  natives  of  America,  others  of 
the  south  of  Europe,  China,  &c.,  bearing  neat  yellow  flowers. 

Kalmia,  Laurel. — The  angustifolia,  narr 020 -leaved  laurel^ 
and  lalifolia,  broad-leaved  do.,  are  American  shrubs,  of  much 
beauty  ;  the  latter  is  a  great  ornament  to  mountain  scenery,  and 
when  transplanted  to  a  damp  shady  situation  in  the  garden,  never 
fails  to  please;  the  filaments  or  thread-like  portions  of  the 
flower,  are  sensitive,  and  spring  forward  on  being  touched,  cast- 
ing the  pollen  on  the  stigma. 

LiGUSTRUM  EuROPA.     Eurovean  Privet. — This  shrub,  almost 
an  evergreen,  is  used  for  ornamental  hedges,  also  for  screens.    It 
bears  the  shears  tolerably  well,  but  is  injured  by  the  heat  in  thia 
country,  and  assumes  a  brownish  hue  at  mid-summer. 
5 


50  THE    MANUAL    OP   GARDENING. 

Magnolia  obovata. — The  Purple  Magnolia  is  the  only  hardy 
species,  which  may  properly  be  called  a  shrub.  The  following 
extract  is  from  the  Floral  Magazine: 

"Although  the  present  species  of  this  attractive  g^enus  has 
become  known  to  the  scientific,  and  numerous  amateur  cultivators 
of  plants,  yet  its  fine  qualities  demand  a  more  general  introduc- 
tion, and  we  trust  the  graphic  drawing  which  accompanies  this 
notice,  will  tend  to  its  extension  to  the  gardens  of  the  more  re- 
mote sections  of  our  widely  extended  territory,  in  almost  every 
portion  of  which,  the  presumption  is,  it  will  bloom  with  freedom — 
certain  are  we,  that  it  bears  uninjured  an  intensity  of  cold,  and 
in  this  latitude  flowers  freely  among  the  earlier  vegetables  that 
display  their  inflorescence  in  the  spring.  In  April,  when  this 
drawing  was  executed,  some  hundreds  of  flowers  adorned  our 
parent  plant,  which  had  been  exposed  the  preceding,  and  many 
former  winters,  to  all  the  vicissitudes  of  our  restless  climate; 
and,  from  the  profusion  of  buds  then  unexpanded,  it  would  remain 
many  weeks  in  bloom ;  indeed,  it  is  not  unusual  for  a  luxuriant 
specimen,  to  continue  partially  in  flower,  from  early  in  the  spring, 
to  the  close  of  autumn. 

Its  native  soil  is  China,  where  it  probably  attains  a  greater 
elevation  than  in  this  country.  Here  it  is  but  a  shrub,  though 
perhaps  from  that  circumstance  not  the  less  valuable,  as  it  admits 
of  its  insertion  in  gardens  of  limited  extent,  or  it  may  be  kept  in 
pots,  to  ornament  the  parlour  or  the  green-house.  It  is  highly 
probable  that  it  would  thrive  enarched  upon  the  acuminata  or 
some  other  fast-growing  species,  and  in  that  form,  trees  might  be 
procured,  possessing  all  the  character  and  beauty  of  the  shrub. 
A  light  loamy  soil,  well  cultivated,  and  enriched,  is  congenial  to 
it :  much  water  is  not  essential,  either  to  this  or  many  other  spe- 
cies of  Magnolia,  as  the  inexperienced  generally  suppose,  from 
the  fact  of  the  more  common  kind,  the  glauca,  growing  in 
swampy  land.  It  is  readily  increased  by  layers,  or  by  suckers, 
which  spring  up  in  considerable  number. 

For  other  Magnolias,  see  page  63. 

Philadelphus,  Mock  Orange. — The  two  species  most  worthy 
of  notice,  are  the  inodorus,  or  scentless;  producing  the  inflores- 
cence in  a  wreath-like  form,  and  the  grandijlorus,  with  large 
flowers,  and  prominent  yellow  anthera.  They  are  robust,  and 
almost  any  situation  and  soil  will  suit  them.  The  P.  Coronarius 
or  common  Syiinga,  is  very  much  esteemed,  on  account  of  the 
scent  of  its  white  flowers,  which  Mason  calls — 

"  The  sweet  Syringa,  yielding  but  in  scent 
To  the  rich  orange." 

The  leaves  have  very  much  the  smell  of  fresh  cucumbers,  and 


THE   MANUAI.    OF   GARDENINO. 


51 


are  sometimes  used  to  flavour  spring  salads.  It  is  very  hardy, 
and  will  bear  our  hardest  winters;  but  after  it  has  begun  to  shoot 
in  spring,  its  tender  leaves  and  blossom  buds  are  sometimes  in- 
jured by  the  cold,  and  it  should  not  therefore  be  planted  in  any 
very  exposed  situation.  It  will  grow  in  any  close  place,  endure 
any  soil,  and  thrive  under  the  drip  of  trees.  It  may  be  propa- 
gated by  cuttings  planted  in  October,  or  by  the  suckers,  which  it 
sends  up  in  abundance. 

PiNCKNEYA  puBENS,  Georgia-hark  Tree. — Like  too  many 
others  of  our  native  plants,  this  is  almost  unknown.  It  is  rather 
tender  in  the  middle  states,  but  as  an  interesting  American  shrub, 
is  entitled  to  a  position  in  all  grounds  pretending  to  possess  a 
general  collection.  A  light  wood-earth  soil,  is  most  congenial  to 
it ;  and  protection  by  matting,  or  otherwise,  in  winter  is  required. 

Pyrus  Japonica. — See  page  46. 

Rhus  continus. —  Venetian  Sumac  or  Mist  Tree,  frequently 
erroneously  termed  fringe  tree,  which  (see  page  47)  is  a  curious 
shrub;  the  extremities  of  the  branches  being  covered  by  masses 
of  russet  coloured  down.  It  is,  from  its  singularity,  worthy  of 
general  culture,  and  succeeds  in  most  situations. 

RoBiNiA  HispiDA,  Roso-Acacia.—This  may  not  need  descrip- 
tion, being  well  known.  Its  beauty  has  been  made  more  con- 
spicuous, T)y  engrafting  it  on  the  pseudo-acacia,  which  gives  an 
elevated  head,  and  more  graceful  appearance. 

Rosa,  The  Rose.— There  is  an  almost  endless  variety  of  this 
beautiful  flower;  many  of  which,  as  the  Cabbage,  the  China,  and 
Scotch,  require  very  different  treatment.  All  Roses  thrive  best 
in  a  rich  loamy  soil;  but  ov;ing  to  their  throwing  off  a  great 
quantity  of  excrementitious  slime,  they  require  to  be  moved  at 
least  once  in  three  or  four  years,  or  the  plants  will  deteriorate, 
and  not  produce  fine  flowers.  The  Cabbage  or  Province  Roses, 
the  French,  and  Moss, are  all  to  be  treated" in  the  same  manner; 
and  whether  kept  as  dwarfs  or  standards  mu>t  be  annually  pruned. 
To  keep  Roses  long  in  flower,  gather  the  flowers  as  fast  as  they 
fade  close  to  the  stem,  nipping  off  any  hips  that  may  form. 

Standard  Roses  are  now  very  much  cultivated.  In  some  cases 
a  leading  shoot  is  trained  to  a  stake,  (the  plant  being  divested  of 
all  its  brlinches  ;)  at  four  or  five  feet  high  it  is  topped,  and  then 
allowed  to  branch  out  into  a  head,  which  is  kept  closely  pruned. 
Standard  Roses  may  also  be  obtained,  by  budding  the  sort  desired 
on  young  stocks  of  the  Dog  Rose,  or  Sweet  Brier,  which  have 
been  placed  in  the  desired  sHuation  the  year  before,  as  they  will 
by  that  means  be  well  established.  Pruning  must  be  particularly 
attended  to  in  all  Roses  except  the  China ;  for  if  this  is  neglected 


52  THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDENING. 

the  plants  will  speedily  deg-enerate,  the  stems  becoming  bare:  it 
is  a  mistake  to  think  that  by  closely  pruning  the  number  of  flow- 
ers will  be  lessened ;  on  the  contrary,  more  and  finer  flowers 
will  be  produced.  The  shoots,  however,  must  not  be  uniformly 
cut  to  within  a  short  distance  of  the  stem;  but  the  strong  and 
vigorous  shoots  should  be  annually  shortened  to  within  six  inches 
of  the  base,  while  slender  and  weak  shoots  should  be  cut  to  with- 
in three  or  four  inches;  young  suckers,  not  required  for  layering, 
should  be  pruned  down  to  within  six  inches  of  the  soil,  to  supply 
the  place  of  the  old  wood,  which  should  be  cut  out:  when  suck- 
ers are  too  numerous,  they  should  be  eradicated.  Standard  Roses 
require  to  be  very  closely  pruned,  in  order  to  make  them  form  a 
uniform  and  compact  head.  The  young  shoots  should  be  annually 
cut  to  within  two  or  three  inches  of  the  part  they  started  from; 
and  when  the  head  becomes  too  large,  some  of  the  old  wood  must 
be  cut  out,  allowing  the  young  shoots  to  supply  its  place.  Prun- 
ing should  be  performed  in  March.  Standard  Roses,  when  care- 
fully pruned,  are  among  the  most  beautiful  objects  of  the  garden. 
When  they  flower,  each  will  present  the  appearance  of  a  dense 
cluster  of  blossoms,  and  occupy  but  little  room;  they  however 
require  support  by  a  stake,  and  no  suckers  must  be  allowed  to 
remain. 

Several  sorts  of  insects  infest  the  Rose;  the  best  way  to  get 
rid  of  them  is  to  pluck  off  the  leaves  or  flowers  affected,  and  burn 
them.  The  green  fly  must  be  destroyed  by  fumigations  with  to- 
bacco smoke.  [The  Alphis  Rosea,  plant  louse,  is  the  green  fly 
alluded  to  by  the  English  editor.  It  may  readily  be  exterminated 
by  syringing  the  plant  once  or  twice  with  a  solution  of  tobacco, 
or  weak  whale-oil  soap,  afterward  rinsing  with  clear  water.] 

Roses  are  propagated  by  layers.  The  China  by  cuttings,  which 
strike  under  a  hand-glass  ;  this  should  be  done  early  in  the  spring. 

In  layering  Roses,  and  other  shrubby  plants,  it  is  only  neces- 
sary to  run  a  penknife  through  the  shoot  to  be  layered,  at  a  bud 
or  joint;  and,  having  slightly  twisted  the  shoot,  so  as  to  open  the 
bark,  bury  it  about  three  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  soil, 
treading  the  soil  slightly  round  it,  so  as  to  place  it  almost  erect. 

The  Rose  has  become  so  numerous  in  variety,  that  cultivators 
have  arranged  them  into  several  classes,  by  which  means  they 
are  more  easily  recognized,  and  their  quality  understood.-— 
The  following,  which  we  have  extracted  from  the  catalogue  of 
D.  Lardreth,  &  Fulton,  may  enable  amateurs  who  cannot  see 
them  in  bloom,  to  make  a  selection  without  disappointment. 

The  Bengal  ever-blooming  Roses,  comprise  the  old 
Chinese  varieties,  monthly  or  daily,  as  formerly  called,  with  the 
new  varieties  of  similar  character ;  a  little  protection  in  winter 
is  advisable* 


THE  MANUAL    OF  GARDENINO.  IS3 

Animated — rosy  blush,  very  profuse. 
Admiral  Duperre — rosy  pink. 
Arsnie — delicate  rose,  extra  fine. 
Augustine  Hersant — dark  rose,  fine. 
Archduke  Charles — changeable  rose. 
Belle  Isidore — rosy  crimson,  cupped. 

"    de  monza — light  crimson. 
Bengal  triumphant,  superb  large  crimson,  very  double. 

"      Don  Carlos — deep  rose  white  stripe. 

"      Queen  of  Lombardy — rich  cherry  red,  superb, 

"      Eugene  Beauharnois — rich  velvet  crimson, 

"     fabvier — bright  scarlet. 
Bengal  grandida — rich  blush,  tipped  with  pink. 

"      Marjolin  de  Luxembourg — deep  crimson. 
Bison — delicate  rosy  blush, 
Belle  violet — light  rose. 
Clintonia — dark  rose. 
Cramoisie,  superieur —  )  superb  dark  crimson, 

"        Bengal  Agrippina,   ^  very  double. 

Cels,  or  Bengal  Cels — flesh  colour,  extra  fine. 
ChameleonDesprez — changeable  pink,and  rose  chameleon. 
Carmine  D'Yebles — carmine  and  white. 
Fenelon  de  Luxembourg — crimson. 
Grand val — brilliant  crimson. 
Hibbertia — pink,  finely  cupped. 
Hortensia — flesh-coloured,  fine. 
Hamilton — large  dark  pink. 

Indica  albaor — white  daily,  pure  white,  very  profuse. 
Jacksonia — or  hundred  leaved  daily,  bright  red. 
Louis  Philippe — dark  crimson,  superb. 
Lawrencia — delicate  rose,  the  smallest  of  all  roses. 
La  Renomme. 
Miellez — pure  white. 
Mrs.  Bosanquet — large  blush,  superb. 
Queen — changeable  rose. 
Semperflorens — or  sanguinea,  rich  crimson. 
Samson — light  rose. 
Triomphe  de  Grand — rosy  lilac,  fine. 
Vanella— dark  crimson. 

THE   TEA. 

These  are  likewise  ever-blooming,  with  the  addition  of 
the  peculiar  odour  which  has  given  such  celebrity  to  this  division 
of  the  family  ;  the  varieties  have  multiplied  greatly,  and  are 
all  much  sought  after;  with  slight  protection  they  will  stand  the 
winter  if  the  soil  be  dry. — [See  remarks  on  protecting  out-door 
plants,  at  page  71.1 
5* 


54  THE  MANUAL   OF   GARDE^^mO. 

Aurora — rich  straw  colour. 
Alba — pure  white,  profuse. 
Augustine  Margat — bright  rose. 
Aristides — very  double  rose. 
Arkinto — pale  rose. 
Aurora  Nova — large  pale  yellow. 
Belle  Margueritte — large  pale  rose,  fine. 
Bougere — light  creamy  yellow. 
Bon  silene — superb  red,  perfectly  double. 
Bourbon — creanny  white. 
Burette — rosy  crimson. 
Barbot, 

Camellia — large  white. 
Clementine  Duval, 
Charles  Desprez — light  rose. 
Ceterie — hrilliant  rose,  fine. 
Countess  of  Albemarle — long  white,  fin* 
DeVeau — rich  blush. 
Drummond — blush  white. 
Devoniensis — superb  yellow. 
Eliza  Sauvage — pale  yellow. 
Flon — fawn  colour,  large  and  fine. 
Golconda — creamy  blush. 
Gigantesquc  de  Lima — yellow,  fine. 
Goubaut — superb  red. 
Gloria  De  Hardy — light  rose. 
Hymenea — creamy  white. 
3aune  panache — pale  straw  colour. 
Lilicine — shaded  lilac. 
Lyonaise — bright  red. 
•     Lady  Warrender — white. 

La  Pactole — yellow,  very  large. 

Madam  Desprez,orjBen^a/  Madame  Desprez—finQsX.  white. 

iVIirabilis — white. 

Marlait  Laboulais. 

Nipheles — pure  white. 

Odorata — or  common  tea  rose,  blush. 

Odoratissima — rich  blush. 

Princess  Maria — shaded  buff! 

Prince  de  Esterhazy — light  rose. 

Pceoniflora — large  rose. 

Rubens — rosy  red, 

Strombio — blush  white. 

Triomphe  de  Luxemborg — ^rosy  blush — very  fine. 

Victoria  modeste — blush,  large  and  fine. 

The  NoisETTz  or   Clusters,   are  so  named   from   the  old 


i 


THE   MANUAL   OF   GARDENING.  B5 

Noisette  Rose,  and  includes  the  well-known  Champney  ,•  they  of 
this  division  are  all  free  flowers,  and  bloom  in  clusters,  some  of  them 
grow  rapidly,  many  to  the  height  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet,  when 
trained,  as  witnessed  in  the  Champney  and  Monstrous  Noisette  ; 
others  have  a  more  dwarfy  habit — hardy. 

Alba — creamy  white,  fine. 

Amie  Vibert — pure  white,  extra  fine. 

Amie — rose. 

Countess  de  Grillon — blush. 

Euphrasie — yellow. 

Gabriel — blush,  fine. 

Bengal  Lee  monstrosa — creamy  blush,  very  fine, 

Cadot — blush  lilac. 

Charles  X. — purple,  fine, 

Conque  de  Venus — white  rose  centre. 

Charmante — rosy  white. 

Coeur  jaune — white,  yellow  centre. 

Champney  ana — rosy  white,  very  profuse. 

Donna  Maria — superb  pink. 

Fellemrerg — superb  crimson. 

Jaune  de  prez — rosy  yellow,  very  fragrant 

Julienne  le  sourd — dark  rose,  extra  fine. 

Lamarque — large  greenish  white,  superb. 

Garden  Roses.  —  Under  this  head  are  arranged  all  thoso 
which  bloom  but  once  in  the  year;  many  of  them  are  magnifi- 
cent, greatly  excelling  the  varieties  of  former  days. 

Afrlcana — very  dark. 

Aurora — rosy  pink. 

Aurora  Boreal  is — shaded  rose. 

Belle  Crimson — fine  crimson,  cupped. 

Belle  amabile — red,  fine. 

Belle  violet — violet. 

Chancellor — light  red. 

Colour  de  Merri — blush  white. 

Duchess  de  Berri — rose. 

Dark  violet — fine  rosy  violet. 

Dwarf  Proliferus — rose,  profuse. 

Delicatesse — delicate  pink. 

Damask  white — white,  fine. 

"       Red— red. 
Early  ranunculus — pink,  extra. 
Flanders — ro?y  purple. 
George  the  IV.  [Riveras] — superb  pink. 
Harrisonia,  )  bright  yellow,  extra  fine, 

or  Hogg's  Yellow,  \  flowers  freely. 


56  THE  MANUAL   OF  QARDENINa 

Imperial — crimson,  fine. 
"       Red — rich  red. 

•'       Superba — light  pink,  large  and  fine. 
King  of  Reds — bright  red,  neatly  cupped. 
Mirabile — superb  pink,  extra  fine. 
Moss — common  rose  colour. 
"    du  Luxumborg,  or  crimson. 
"    crested,  or  crested  Proving. 
"    crimson — dark  rose,  fine. 
"    white  Bath — pure  white. 
Nonsuch — pink. 
Nigrora — dark  pine,  fine. 
Nigretenne — very  dark  rose. 
Nonpareil — rose  red. 
Normandy — violet  red. 
Ombre  superb — dark  red. 
Pompadore — changeable  purple. 
Provins  cabbage — rosy  pink,  very  double. 

"      crested — blush,  large  and  double,  very  superb. 
"      white  or  unique — large  white. 
"     red — light  red. 
Prolific — blush. 
Primer  noble — rose  red. 
Queen  of  roses — superb  rose. 

Ruschenberg-Cmada.),    |  f^f/Jj^f^^'  very  I.rg,     • 

Rosa  Dingiensis — dark  crimson. 

Rose  Ferrique — violet  crimson. 

Sanspareil — shaded  crimson. 

Striped  nosegay — superb  cherry  red. 

Susannah — cupped  rose,  fine. 

Sweet  briar,  common — single  pink  leaves,  fragrant 

"      double  white — creamy  white,  fine. 

"     double  red — red,  very  fine. 
Tuscany — very  dark  crimson. 
Triumphant — rosy  red. 
Virgin's  blush — rich  blush. 
York  and  Lancaster — red  and  white. 

NOISETTE    ROSES. 

La  Biche — flesh  coloured. 

Lady  Byron — brilliant  pink,  fine. 

Lafayette — fine  pink. 

Lutea  or  Smithii — light  yellow. 

La  Sarmenteus — blush  white. 

Landreth's  Carmine — superb  carmine,  (immense  clusters.^ 

La  Nymphe — pale  rose. 


THE    MANUAL     OP    GARDENING.  57 

Mignon — white. 

Miss  Simpson — superb  blush. 

Orlof — brilliant  pink. 

Princess  de  Orange — creamy  white. 

Pom  pone — rosy  pink. 

Sir  Walter  Scott — rosy  lilac. 

Superba — blush  white,  profuse. 

Susanna — creamy  white. 

Sultana — lisfht  red. 


CLIMBING    ROSES. 

Ayrshire — double  blush,  fine. 
Banksia  lutea — double  yellow. 

"        alba — double  white. 
Boursalt — rose  colour. 

"        purpurea,  purple,  profuse. 

"        blush,  large  blush. 

"        gracilis,  bright  rose. 
Bengalensis  scandens — large  rosy  white. 
Felicit  de  perpetua — blush  white,  fine. 
p       ..,      {  produces  immense  clusters  of  various  colours 
'  \      and  shades  from  white  to  crimson. 
•  Multiflora — pink  perfect. 

"        alba — blush  white. 
Rubifolia — Michigan  or  prairie. — in  variety. 
Russelliana  or  cottige  rose — purple  crimson,  superb. 
Sempervirens  pleno — superb  white. 
Triomphde  Bollwyler — blush  white,  superb  large  clusters. 

Isle  de  Bourbon. 

This  class  is  probably  the  most  delightful  of  them  all ;  it  com- 
prises a  number  which  combine  the  free  blooming  habit  of  the 
Bengal^  with  the  perfume  of  the  old-fashioned  garden  roses ;  and, 
unitmo"  their  properties,  bid  fair  to  supersede  most  others: — they 
are  sufiiciently  hardy  to  withstand  the  winter,  on  dry  soil,  ia  the 
middle  states. 

Augustine  Lelieur — dark  rose. 

Henry  Planter — rosy  red. 

Hermosa — light  rose. 

Jacques — bright  rose. 

La  Brun — rose,  large  and  fine. 

Marschale  de  Villars — rosy  purple. 

Madam  Desprez — dark  rose,  extra  fine. 

Emily  Courtier — purple. 

Faustine — blush. 


68  THE   MANUAL   OF   QARDEKIKO. 

Gloria  de  France — monthly  cabbage. 

"       de  Algiers — light  purple. 
Ida  Percot — lilac. 
Julia  de  Lyons — white. 
Madame  Margat — dark  rose. 

•'  Nerard — blush  colour. 

Ninon  de  L'Enclos — violet  purple. 
Pauline  Plantier — rose. 
Pucella  Genoese — flush  colour. 
Queen — deep  blush. 
Splendens — light  rose. 
Theresita — bright  carmine. 
Thimocle — rosy  shaded  lilac. 

MiCROPIIYLLA. 

These  have  foliage  of  a  very  distinctive  character,  and  much 
admired,  on  that  account,  as  well  as  for  the  flowers;  free  bloom- 
ers, hardy. 

Maria  Leonida — white,  extra  fine. 
Microphylla — rose  colour  superb. 
«'        du  Luxemborg. 
"        Nouveau  rouge. 
"        odorata  alba — creamy  white,  fragrant.  • 

Musk-scented. 

This  class  is  formed  from  those  which  have  the  fragrance  of 
the  old  *' while  cluster,"  or  "  musk-scented,"  a  well-known  va- 
riety, which  has  long  supported  its  popularity  ; — hardy. 
Moschata — white,  semi-double. 

superba — pure  white,  very  double. 
Frazerii — blush  or  pink. 
Pnncess  de  Nassau — white,  double. 

Some  cultivators  of  Roses  have  made  other  subdivisions,  as 
Perpetual,  Hybrid-China,  &-c. ;  but  there  is  so  much  confusion 
on  the  subject  that  we  pass  them  by.  The  increasing  taste  for 
this  charming  flower,  and  the  many  new  varieties  which  are  an- 
nually produced,  will  ultimately  require  a  more  critical  classifi- 
cation. 

Spirea. — There  are  several  beautiful  species  of  this  genus, 
among  which  may  be  specially  named  hyperici/olia,  salicifolia, 
tomentosa,  and  bella:  there  are  others  of  herbaceous  habit:  see 
paoe  76. 

Spartium  Scoparium,  Scotch  Broom. — Common  as  is  this 
plant  in  Europe,  it  is  here  comparatively  little  known,  to  the  dis- 


THE   MANUAL    OF   GARDENlNa  69 

advantage  of  our  gardens.  Its  early  bloom,  and  deep  green  stems 
and  leaflets,  make  it  a  pleasing  object.  In  the  middle  states  it  is 
sometimes  disfigured  by  the  severe  weather.  S.  jiinceum,  the  Spa- 
nish broom,  produces  white  flowers,  and  is  likewise  ornamental. 

Steuartia. — Two  species,  the  malocondendron  and  penta- 
gyna,  both  yield  showy  white  flowers,  one  with  purple  anthers, 
the  other  with  yellow  ;  they  continue  in  bloom  many  weeks,  and 
merit  notice,  but  being  natives  are  but  little  known  !  fine  speci- 
mens are  growing  at  Bartram's  and  Landreth's  nurseries. 

Styrax. — There  are  several  shrubs  of  this  genus,  which  flower 
freely,  and  from  their  moderate  growth,  suited  for  town  gardens. 
S.  grandifolia  and  S.  lavigatum,  are  the  most  prominent.  S. 
officinale  is  a  low  tree,  with  slender  branches,  flowers  in  racemes, 
from  their  sides.  Storax  is  obtained  from  this  tree  in  Asiatic 
Turkey.  They  all  succeed  in  good  garden  soil,  but  flower  more 
fully  in  an  open  airy  situation. 

Symphora  racemosa,  Snowberry. — This  is  one  of  Lewis  & 
Clark's  plants,  and  attracted  much  notice  on  its  first  introduction  ; 
it  is  now  widely  difliised,  and  known  to  all.  The  first  plants 
were  grown  from  seed  by  the  late  Mr.  McMahon,  the  author  of  a 
useful  work  on  gardening. 

Syringa,  Lilac. — The  cut-leaved  Persian,  persica  lacineata^ 
and  the  white  Persian,  jaersica  alba,  yield  pretty  delicate  flowers 
in  pendulous  clusters:  the  perfume  is  also  delicate  and  highly 
agreeable. 

ViRBURNUM  opuLUs  vnv  Toseum. — The  Snowball  is  endeared  to 
many  of  us  by  the  recollections  of  childhood,  and  on  that  account 
will  secure  a  niche,  which  mitjht  be  filled  by  a  more  brilliant 
flower.  All  that  it  requires  is  room  and  air :  its  hardy  habit  will 
be  its  own  protector. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

HARDY  DECIDUOUS  TREES.— The  descriptive  catalogue 
of  Deciduous  Trees,  (that  is  such  as  shed  their  leaves  in  autumn,) 
has  been  drawn  so  as  to  embrace  a  portion  of  nearly  all  the  pro- 
minent genera  ;  and  from  the  character  as  appended  to  each,  it 
may  be  seen  which  are  the  most  suited  to  the  lawn  and  plea- 
sure ground,  and  which  the  street.  Many  of  them  are  fully 
known  to  country  residents;  but  as  this  work,  unpretending  as 
it  is,  will  probably  get  into  the  hands  of  persons  in  every  loca- 
tion, it  has  been  thought  advisable  to  describe  the  native  as  well 
as  foreign  kinds. 

Shrubs  and  flowers,  with  their  varied  hue  and  form,  aflford  us 


60  THE  MANUAL   OF   GARDENING. 

gratification  which  is  to  be  highly  prized  ;  but  it  is  Trees  which 
beautify  the  landscape,  and  give  much  of  the  pictorial  and  physi- 
cal character  to  a  country.  As  Americans  we  may  justly  be 
proud  of  the  diversity  of  our  forest  trees:  among  them  are  those 
most  useful  and  most  magnificent — but  as  A^mericans  we  must 
regret  they  are  not,  except  in  a  mercenary  point  of  view,  more 
fully  valued.  Even  in  the  thickly  settled  portions  of  our  country, 
how  few  comparatively  look  upon  them  with  any  other  eye  than 
to  their  cubic  contents !  the  result  is,  that  frequently  the  most 
beautiful  are  felled,  and  few  for  ornament  are  planted  ;  whilst 
Landscape  gardening  is  scarcely  known  by  name,  much  less  by 
its  effects,  in  the  United  States.  It  is  not  intended  by  these  re- 
marks to  convey  the  idea,  that  the  elegance  of  design,  and  broad 
expanse  of  an  English  noble's  lawn,  should  be  copied  in  this 
country  ;  to  do  that,  something  else  beside  land  and  trees  is  ne- 
cessary ;  but  how  much  may  be  accomplished  by  the  means  at 
our  command,  and  if  our  rural  residents  would  but  follow  the 
Scottish  Laird's  advice  to  his  son,  to  plant  trees  habitually,  we 
should  see  the  country  assume  a  more  cheerful  tone,  and  if  they 
were  placed  judiciously  would,  instead  of  becoming  an  encum- 
brance, ultimately  yield  profit:  not  a  spear  of  grass  the  less  need 
be  the  consequence:  the  eye  would  be  gratified,  the  owner  profit- 
ed, and  his  cattle  find  shelter  from  the  mid-day  heat. 

How  animating  is  the  prospect  of  a  luxuriant  pasture,  studded 
here  and  there  with  noble  trees,  which  have  been  suffered  to 
extend  their  branches  with  the  freedom  of  nature  !  It  will  be 
paid,  that  though  adapted  to  the  meadow,  trees  are  an  encum- 
brance to  the  plough  land  ;  true — if  in  excess,  but  if  in  moderate 
numbers,  prudently  placed,  the  loss  from  shade  of  grain,  would 
be  counterbalanced  by  the  shelter  to  cattle  in  the  succeeding 
grass  crop;  still  were  it  not  so  to  the  exactness  of  a  farthing, 
should  those  "  who  live  under  their  own  vine  and  fig  tree,"  with 
ample  means  for  life's  enjoyment,  measure  every  act  by  the  inex- 
orable rule  of  dollars  and  cents  % 

Acer,  Maple. — The  scientific  name  is  derived  from  a  Latin 
term,  significant  of  sharp,  from  the  wood  havinnf  formerly  been 
made  into  the  heads  of  pikes.  There  are  many  beautiful  trees 
of  this  genus,  of  which  the  American  forests  produce  a  full  share; 
for  instance,  A.  sacchariman,  the  sugar  maple,  with  its  fine  round 
symmetrical  head,  and  deep  green  leaves,  changing  in  the  autumn 
to  every  shade  of  orange.  The  A.  desycarpnm,  or  silver-leaved, 
from  their  surface  having  a  silver  hue.  The  ruhrum,  or  scarlet 
flowering,  the  negundo,  or  ash-leaved,  &c.  Among  the  European 
we  may  notice  the  pseudo-plantanoides,  or  sycamore,  (observe  a 
very  distinct  tree  from  the  buttonwood,  sometimes  so  called,) 
which  abounds  in  the  greater  part  of  Europe.     It  is  remarkably 


THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDENING.  61 

hardy,  and  will  grow  with  an  erect  stem,  exposed  to  the  highest 
winds;  but  the  tb)ias!"e  is,  unfortunately,  liable  to  the  attack  of 
insects.  The  A.  Plalaiioides^  or  Norway  maple,  also  abounds  in 
Poland,  Lithuania,  Switz(?rland  and  Savoy  ;  on  a  tolerable  soil,  it 
attains  a  large  size.  The  leaves  being  smooth,  of  a  shining  green, 
and  seldom  defaced  by  insects,  it  may  be  termed  a  tree  of  great 
beauty.  The  leaves  of  this  species  also  die  of  a  golden  yellow 
colour,  producing  a  charming  effect  in  autumn. 

iEscULUS,  Horse  Chestnut,  is  so  called  because  it  was  once 
used  in  veterinary  medicine.  The  JE.  hippocastana  is  a  magni- 
ficent tree,  at  once  grand  from  its  magnitude  and  massy  form  ; 
and  beautiful  when  in  bloom,  from  being  covered  with  large 
spikes,  of  delicate  white  and  pink  flowers,  protruding  from  among 
its  elegant  digitate  leaves.  There  are  other  species,  as  the 
J?oi?a!,  yellow  flowering;  ^avia,  scarlet  flowering;  and  Ohioensis 
or  true  buck-eye;  the  latter  a  fine  tree,  but  not  equal  in  beauty 
to  the  hippocastana. 

AiLANTHUs  GLANDULosA,  Tree  of  Heaven. — This  is  an  East 
India  tree,  of  rapid  growth,  and  adapted  to  the  poorest  soil.  The 
leaves  are  pinnate,  and  of  great  length.  Many  have  been  planted 
in  the  city  streets,  but  at  present  trees  of  greater  durability  are 
preferred.  It  is  unsuited  to  la^d  where  the  sub-soil  retains  mois- 
ture in  excess;  in  such  soils  they  not  unfrequently  die,  during 
winter. 

Bettjla,  Birch. — The  alba-pendula,  or  white  weeping  birch  ; 
the  papyracea,  or  canoe-birch,  and  the  popidifolia,  or  poplar 
leaved  birch,  are  the  more  prominent  kinds.  They  are  trees  of 
vigorous  constitution,  and  succeed  even  in  unfavourable  situations. 

Catalpa  cordifolia. — This  is  known  to  most  Americans, 
from  its  large  clusters  of  white  purple-spotted  flowers;  succeeded 
by  long  seed-vessels,  which,  from  their  shape  and  grouping,  have 
given  it  the  name  of  Candle  Tree.  It  is  not  well  adapted  to 
street  planting,  but  is  highly  ornamental  on  the  lawn. 

CuPRESsus  {Taxodiiim.)  Deciduous  Cypress. — A  truly  beau- 
tiful tree,  abounding  in  the  low  lands  of  the  South,  but  perfectly 
hardy  in  Pennsylvania,  where  w^cll-grown  specimens  exist; 
the  largest  of  which  is  at  Bartram's  Garden,  planted  by  the 
venerable  founder  of  that  interesting  place.  The  Cypress  loves 
the  deepest  and  most  gloomy  swamp?,  yet  flourishes  w^ell  on  up- 
land soil;  and  from  its  noble  cone-like  form,  greatly  beautifies 
the  landscape.  When  grouped  with  trees  of  globular  form,  it 
produces  an  agreeable  variety. 

Fagus,  Beech. — There  are  several  species  of  this  tree,  but  the 
one  of  principal  interest,  is  the  atro-ruhens,  or  purple-leaved, 
which,  from  its  deep  mahogany-coloured  foliage,  is  remarkable; 
t) 


62  THE   MANUAL   OP  GARDENING. 

and  greatly  aids  the  picturesque  effect  when  mixed  with  other 
trees,  or  in  the  shrubbery.  It  is  propagated  by  engrafting  on  the 
common  Beech,  and  may  be  obtained  at  the  nurseries  around 
Philadelphia.     A  fine  specimen  exists  at  Landreih's. 

Fraxinus,  Ash. — The  F.  americana,  and  F.  excelsior,  the 
European,  are  large  forest  trees,  well  adapted  for  shade  and 
ornament.  The  F.  excelsior -pendula,  or  weeping  ash,  is  a 
curious  tree;  its  branches  incline  downwards,  and  with  training 
may  be  made  to  form  a  living  summer-house,  or  other  fanciful 
structure. 

Gymnocladus  canadensis,  Kentucky  Coffee  Tree,  is  of  pecu- 
liar aspect;  having  but  few  secondary  branches,  the  limbs  show 
conspicuously,  when  the  foliage  has  fallen  ;  and  produce  a  good 
effect. 

LiREODENDRON  TULiPiFERA,  TuUp  Tree. — This  is  one  of  the 
many  grand  productions  of  the  American  forest;  no  less  admired 
for  its  clear  polished  foliage,  than  its  showy  tulip-like  flowers. 
It  were  needless  to  say  one  word  in  its  praise,  so  generally  is  it 
known  and  admired.  For  street  planting  it  perhaps  grows  too 
large,  unless  where  there  is  great  breadth  of  foot-path,  or  the 
buildings  recede  from  the  line  of  the  street.  In  such  situations 
there  can  be  nothing  better:  around  massy  public  buildings,  its 
effect  W'Ould  be  imposing. 

Maclura  aurantiaca,  Osage  Orange.  —  An  indigrenuous 
tree,  first  discovered  by  Hunter  and  Dunbar,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Little  Missouri ;  and  named  by  Nuttall,  in  honour  of  our  towns- 
man, the  late  Wm.  Maclure,  Esq.,  "a  philosopher  whose  devo- 
tion to  Natural  History,  and  particularly  to  the  geology  of  North 
America,  has  scarcely  been  exceeded  by  Ramond  or  Saussure,  in 
Europe."  There  are  several  fruit-bearing  trees  around  Phila- 
delphia, reared  by  the  late  Mr.  McMahon  from  seed,  procured 
by  Lewis  and  Clark  when  on  their  expedition.  It  is  dioecious, 
having  the  male  and  female  flowers  on  different  plants.  A  large 
solitary  tree,  at  the  Landreth  nurseries,  produced  for  several  suc- 
cessive years,  some  bushels  of  fruit,  which  prematurely  fell,  after 
attaining  the  size  of  an  orange.  The  expedient  was  adopted  of 
tying  it  on  the  branches  with  staminiferous  flowers,  obtained  from 
a  distant  tree;  the  result  was  entirely  successful,  and  many 
thousands  of  young  plants  have  been  reared  from  seed  thus  per- 
fected. The  experiment  has  been  repeated  again  and  again,  as 
we  have  been  assured,  and  with  invariably  the  same  effect. 
The  foliage  of  the  Maclura  is  of  a  deep  green,  highly  polished, 
and  from  abounding  in  acrid  juice,  is  seldom  attacked  by  insects. 

The  young  plants  are  armed  with  formidable  spines,  and  from 
the  experiments  made,  seem  admirably  suited  for  hedges:  much 
more  so  than  the  thorn.     A  hedge  of  it  at  Mr.  Maupay's,  but  a 


THE   MANUAL    OP  GARDENINO.  63 

few  years  planted,  already  affords  entire  protection  against 
cattle. 

Magnolia. — This  genus  derives  its  name  from  Pierre  Magnol, 
prefect  of  the  Botanic  Garden,  at  Montpelier.  There  are  many 
species,  of  which  those  indigenuous  to  this  country  are  most 
remarkable.  The  M.  conspicita,  or  chandelier,  in  allusion  to  its 
mode  of  inflorescence,  is  a  native  of  Japan  ;  and  is  as  hardy  as  the 
hardiest  of  our  trees.  Its  blossoms  are  yielded  in  profusion,  and 
among  the  earliest  flowers  of  the  spring :  the  growth  is  free,  and 
when  engrafted  on  the  acuminata,  attains  a  large  size.  The 
largest  specimen  it  is  supposed  in  the  United  States,  is  at  the 
Landreth  nurseries.  It  is  now,  1844,  twenty-five  feet  high,  and 
annually  produces  many  thousands  of  its  creamy-white  Jioioers. 
At  those  grounds,  and  also  at  Bartram's,  may  be  seen  the  finest 
specimens  of  the  native  sorts,  to  be  found  in  this  quarter;  among 
them  the  cordata,  or  heart-shaped  leaved,  auriculata,  macrophylla^ 
tripetala,  acuminata,  and  grandijiora ;  the  latter  is  figured  in  the 
Floral  Magazine,  from  which  the  following  is  extracted. 

*'  Vast  as  is  the  range,  and  numerous  the  variety  in  the  forests 
of  the  United  States,  perhaps  no  single  tree  surpasses  the  Mag' 
nolia  Grandijiora  of  the  south.  Mr.  Nuttall,  ("  Genera  of 
North  American  Plants,^')  styles  it  "  the  most  magnificent  tree 
of  the  southern  states,  whose  trunk  often  presents  a  living  column 
of  eighty  or  ninety  feet  elevation,  almost  unobstructed  by 
branches,  and  terminated  by  a  spreading  top  of  the  deepest 
perennial  verdure."  The  leaves  of  this  "  Prince  of  the  Forest," 
to  use  the  language  of  Pursh,  are  entire,  and  of  a  coriaceous  or 
leather-like  texture ;  the  upper  surface  of  the  darkest  green,  with 
the  brilliant  polish  of  mahogany ;  the  under  surface  varies  in  dif- 
ferent trees  and  situations. — In  some  it  is  of  a  clear,  lijht  green, 
in  others  covered  by  a  rusty  coloured  down;  the  flowers  are 
cream-white,  cup-shaped,  until  fully  expanded,  when  they  assume 
a  saiver  form;  we  have  measured  them  at  our  nurseries  33 
inches  in  circumference,  and  it  is  probable,  that  in  their  native 
region,  they  are  still  more  luxuriant.  The  odour,  which  may 
be  inhaled  at  a  considerable  distance,  is  that  of  the  citron ;  not  so 
powerful  as  in  the  M.  glauca,  but  more  lively  and  exhilarating. 
It  is  a  hardy  tree,  though  when  quite  young,  needs  slisrht  pro- 
tection during  winter,  in  this  latitude.  '  Our  standard  specimen 
has  reached  an  elevation  of  thirty  to  forty  feet,  and  yields  abun- 
dant bloom;  its  beautiful  evergreen  foliage,  unscathed  by  the 
severest  frost."  The  specimen  just  alluded  to  has,  we  believe, 
died  since  that  description  was  written. 

Platanus,  Plane  Tree,  or  Button-wood. — The  common 
American  species,  occidenlalis,  is  a  noble  tree,  fit  emblem  of  our 
forests.  Unfortunately  it  has  fallen  into  ill  health,  but  it  is  to  be 
hoped  the  evil  is  but  temporary.     A  new  species,  the  racemosu^y 


64  THE    MANUAL    OP   GARDENING, 

or  Californian,  has  recently  been  discovered  byNuttolI,  in  Upper 
California.  "At  first  view,"  observes  Mr.  Nuttall  in  his  eupple- 
ment  to  the  North  American  Sylva,  where  a  beautiful  drawing  ia 
given,  "it  would  be  taken  for  the  ordinary  species,  spreading  out 
the  same  serpentine  picturesque  limbs,  occasionally  denuded  of 
their  old  coat  of  bark,  and  producing  the  same  wide  and  gigantic 
trunk,  but  a  glance  at  the  leaves  no  less  than  the  fruit,  would  re- 
mind the  eastern  traveller  that  he  sojourned  in  a  new  region  of 
vegetation,  and  objects  apparently  the  most  familiar  he  met 
around  him,  associate  them  as  he  would,  were  still  wholly  stran- 
gers. 

The  leaves  not  fully  expanded  were  about  4  inches  wide  and 
the  same  in  length,  divided  more  than  half  way  down  into  five 
sharp  pointed,  lanceolate  portions,  of  which  the  two  lower  are 
the  smallest;  all  the  divisions  are  quite  entire,  two  of  them  in 
small  leaves  are  suppressed,  thus  producing  a  leaf  of  only  three 
parts.  Above,  as  usual,  the  surface  is  at  first  clad  with  a  yellow- 
ish copious  down,  formed  of  ramified  hairs,  which  quickly  falls 
off  and  spreads  itself  in  the  atmosphere.  The  under  surfaces  of 
the  leaves  are,  however,  always  copiously  clad  with  a  coat  of 
whitish  wool,  which  remains.  The  young  leaves,  clad  in  their 
brown  pilose  clothing,  have  a  very  uncommon  appearance,  and 
feel  exactly  like  a  piece  of  stout  thick  woollen  cloth. 

The  wood  of  this  species,  as  far  as  I  could  learn  from  the 
American  residents  at  St.  Barbara,  is  far  preferable  to  that  of  the 
common  Bultonwood,  being  much  harder,  more  durable,  less  lia- 
ble to  warp,  and  capable  of  receiving  a  good  polish ;  it  is  of  a 
pale  yellowish  colour,  like  the  young  wood  of  the  Oriental 
Plane,  and  bears  some  resemblance  to  beech  wood  in  its  texture. 
In  the  radiation  of  its  medullary  vessels,  it  resembles  the  wood 
of  the  common  species." 

The  Oriental  Plane,  P.  orientalis,  bears  some  resemblance  to 
the  common  American,  but  on  comparison,  the  difference  is  easily 
observed.  We  have  searched  in  vain  on  this  species  for  the  dis- 
ease so  prevalent  on  the  common  one ;  henceforth,  therefore,  should 
the  disease  continue,  it  will  be  more  prudent  to  plant  the  orien- 
talis;  the  following  description  of  it  is  copied  from  Nuttall: 

"The  Oriental  Plane  (Platanus  Orientalis)  deserves  to  be 
planted  in  the  United  States  as  an  ornamental  tree.  It  grows  to 
the  height  of  from  70  to  90  feet,  with  widely  spreading  branches 
and  a  massive  trunk,  forming  altogether  a  majestic  object.  The 
leaves  are  more  deeply  divided  and  indented  than  in  our  com- 
mon species.  A  native  of  the  East,  where  shady  trees  are  not 
so  abundant  as  in  North  America,  it  was  celebrated  in  the  earli- 
est records  of  Grecian  history.  Xerxes,  it  seems,  (according  to 
Herodotus,)  was  so  fascinated  with  a  beautiful  Plane  tree  which 
he  found  growing  in  Lycia,  that  he  encircled  it  with  a  ring  of 


THE    MANUAL    OP    GARDENING.  65 

grold,  and  confided  the  charge  of  it  to  one  of  the  Ten  Thousand. 
He  passed  an  entire  day  under  its  shade,  encamping  with  his 
whole  army  in  its  vicinity,  and  the  delay  so  occasioned  was  be- 
lieved to  be  one  of  the  causes  of  his  defeat.  Pausanius  (a.  d. 
170)  mentions  a  Plane  tree  of  extraordinary  size  and  beauty  in 
Arcadia,  which  was  said  to  have  been  planted  by  Menelaus,  the 
husband  of  Helen,  and  to  have  been  at  the  time  he  saw  it  1300 
years  old. 

Plane  trees  were  planted  near  all  the  public  schools  in  Athena. 
The  groves  of  Epicurus,  in  which  Aristotle  taught  his  peripatetic 
disciples;  the  shady  walks  planted  near  the  Gymnasia  and  other 
public  buildings  of  Athens;  and  the  groves  of  Academus,  in 
which  Plato  delivered  his  celebrated  discourses,  were  all  tbrmed 
of  this  tree. 

The  remarkable  Plane  tree  at  Buyukdere,  or  the  Great  Val- 
ley, mentioned  by  Olivier,  the  naturalist,  and  after  him  by  Pouc- 
queville,  Hobhouse,  and  various  other  writers,  has  a  trunk  that 
presents  the  appearance  of  7  or  8  trees,  having  a  common  origin, 
which  Olivier  supposes  to  be  the  stool  of  a  decayed  tree,  and 
which  were  all  connected  at  their  base.  Dr.  Walsh,  who  mea 
suredthe  tree  in  1831,  found  the  trunk  141  feet  in  circumference 
at  the  base,  and  its  branches  covered  a  space  of  130  feet  in  di- 
ameter. The  trunk  divides  into  14  branches,  some  of  which 
issue  from  below  the  present  surface  of  the  soil,  and  some  do  not 
divide  till  they  rise  7  or  8  feet  above  it;  one  of  the  largest  is 
hollowed  out  by  fire,  and  affords  a  cabin  to  shelter  a  husbandman. 
The  tree,  if  it  can  be  considered  a  single  plant,  is  certainly  the 
largest  in  the  world.  But  what  renders  it  an  object  of  more  than 
usual  interest,  is  that  M.  Decandolle  conjectures  it  must  be  more 
than  2000  years  old. 

The  wood  of  the  Oriental  Plane  in  the  Levant  and  in  Asia  ig 
used  in  carpentry,  joinery,  and  cabinet-making.  It  is  said  to  make 
beautiful  furniture,  on  account  of  the  smoothness  of  its  grain, 
and  its  susceptibility  of  receiving  a  high  polish." 

Salisburia  adiantifolia  (the  Ginkgo,  or,  Maiden-hair 
Tree). — The  Salisburia  is  a  native  of  Japan  and  China,  and 
forms  a  large  tree  in  its  native  country.  Bunge,  who  accom- 
panied the  Russian  mission  to  China,  states,  that  he  saw  one 
with  a  trunk  nearly  forty  feet  in  circumference.  Mr.  Loudon 
says,  the  tree  grows  with  considerable  rapidity  in  the  climate 
of  London,  and  has  attained  the  height  of  forty  or  fifty  feet,  in 
as  many  years.  The  longevity  of  the  Salisburia  promises  to  be 
great,  as  the  largest  trees  in  England  continue  to  grow  with  as 
much  vigour,  as  when  newly  planted.  The  highest  tree  there, 
planted  in  1767,  was,  in  1838,  above  sixty  feet. 

It  was  introduced  into  the  United  States,  by  Mi   Hamilton,  in 
6* 


b6  THE    MANUAL    OP   GARDENING. 

1764,  and  the  tree  now  growing  at  the  Woodlands,  near  Phila- 
delphia, is,  doubtless,  the  one  then  imported.  A  specimen  at  the 
Landreth  Nurseries,  when  planted  is  unknown,  has  attained  the 
height  of  50  feet  and  continues  in  fine  health.  There  is  also  one 
of  considerable  size  in  the  Mall,  at  Boston. 

In  China  and  Japan,  the  Ginkgo  tree,  is  grown  chiefly  for  its 
fruit.  The  nuts  are  generally  exposed  for  sale  in  the  markets, 
and  are  never  omitted  at  entertainments ;  entering  into  the  com- 
position of  several  dishes.  The  Salisburia,  it  is  said,  will  not 
thrive  where  the  sub-soil  is  wet,  but  the  contrary  has  been 
proved  ;  the  specimen  at  Landreth's  growing  with  remarkable 
vigour  on  soil  resting  on  a  strong  brick  clay.  It  may  be  propa- 
gated from  cuttings,  or  layers. 

SoRBUS  AUcuPARiA  {Pt/rus  aucupario). —  The  European 
Mountain  Ash  forms  an  erect  stemmed  tree,  and,  when  fully 
grown,  assumes  a  roundish  head.  It  grows  rapidly  at  first,  but 
soon  begins  to  form  a  head ;  it  does  not  bear  lopping,  but  grasa 
will  grov/  freely  under  its  shade.  The  Mountain  Ash,  is  found 
in  most  parts  of  Europe,  from  Iceland  to  the  Mediterranean  sea; 
and  is  also  found  in  x'\.sia.  In  various  parts  of  the  north  of 
Europe,  the  berries  are  dried,  and  ground  into  flour,  and  used 
as  a  substitute  for  flour  made  of  wheat,  in  times  of  great 
scarcity.  Infused  in  water,  they  make  an  acid  drink,  somewhat 
resembling  Perry.  It  is  planted  in  all  churchyards,  in  Wales, 
as  the  yew  is  in  those  of  England.  As  an  ornamental  tree,  the 
Mountain  Ash  is  well  adapted  for  small  gardens  ; — in  summer, 
the  light  green  tint  of  the  foliage,  and  in  autumn,  the  glowing 
berries,  contrast  beautifully  with  the  deeper  green  of  other  trees. 
In  suburban  gardens,  in  England,  it  makes  a  great  display,  by 
means  of  its  fruit ; — it  never  requires  pruning,  and  never  grows 
out  of  shape.  They  are  raised  from  seed,  or  more  readily  ob- 
tained from  well  furnished  nurseries.  The  Sorbus  Americanay 
or,  American  Mountain  Ash,  very  closely  resembles  the  species 
just  referred  to,  though  the  berries  are  not  so  bright.  It  is  a 
very  hardy  tree,  and,  in  some  respects,  preferable  to  the  Euro- 
pean, which  is  here  found  liable  to  the  attack  of  a  grub,  at  its 
Toot,  causing  the  decay  of  the  tree.  It  grows  indigenously  in 
Canada,  and  the  Eastern  States,  and  should  be  more  generally 
cultivated.  It  may  be  grown  from  seed,  or  by  engrafting  on  the 
European,  but  most  persons  will  find  it  more  easily  obtained  by 
purchase. 

TiLiA. — The  Linden,  or  Lime  Tree,  of  which  there  are 
several  varieties,  has  long  been  a  favourite  in  Europe,  and  also 
in  this  country,  vvherever  known.  It  is  admirably  adapted  for 
street-planting,  and  many  have  been  set  out  on  the  side-waJka 
of  our  cities.  Unfortunately  for  its  reputation,  and  also  for  our 
comfort,  it  has  latterly  been  the    prey  of    caterpillars,  and 


THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDENING.  67 

"borers,"  which  have  greatly  disfigured  it,  and,  in  some 
inrtancps,  made  it  necessary  to  remove  the  trees  altoijetfier. 
Such,  however,  has  boen  the  result  of  siieer  neglect,  in  aliov^ing 
the  insects  undisputed  sway,  or,  at  least,  until  they  had  got  so 
firmly  lodged,  as  not  to  be  displaced. 

In  the  country  it  still  retains  its  health  and  beauty,  and  it  is 
to  be  hoped  may  ever  do  so;  its  absence  v;ould  be  greatly 
regretted.  These  remarks  apply  to  the  European  variety,  for 
the  American  i'j,  so  far  as  our  information  extends,  free  from 
attack.  The  Linden  has  long  been  a  favourite  tree  for  avenues, 
and  public  walks;  it  is  planted  on  the  streets  of  the  principal 
towns  in  Europe,  and  frequently  forms  avenues  to  country-seats, 
both  on  the  continent  and  in  Great  Britain.  The  Dutch  plant  it 
on  the  sides  of  the  canals,  and  the  whole  country  is  perfumed  by 
its  odour,  when  in  flower. 

The  Russian  peasants  manufacture  shoes  from  its  bark ;  cover 
their  cottages  with  the  same,  and  form  the  mats,  so  generally 
used  by  gardeners,  from  the  inner  bark.  It  is  said  that  so  great 
has  been  the  havoc  for  those  purposes,  that  an  order  has  been 
issued  restricting  the  felling  of  the  trees.  The  Linden  will 
grow  in  any  soil,  but  thrives  most  in  deep  rich  land;  in  dry 
sandy  soil  the  growth  is  slow  and  the  leaves  fall  early.  It  ia 
increased  by  layering — rather  a  slow  process.  The  trees,  both 
native  and  European,  are  obtainable  at  the  nurseries. 

Ulmus,  The  Elm. — This  is  a  well  known  tree,  and  in  England 
has  been  famous  since  the  time  of  the  Romans,  and  of  all  Euro- 
pean trees,  is  that  most  generally  cultivated.  Its  culture  is  easy; 
its  growth  rapid;  and  it  will  thrive  in  almost  any  soil,  or  situa- 
tion. The  wood  of  elms,  that  have  been  frequently  pruned,  be- 
come knobbed,  and  when  polished  is  highly  ornamental ;  to  obtain 
it  the  trees  in  France  are  kept  lopped  and  headed  down.  There 
are  many  varieties  produced  from  seed,  but  the  campestris  or 
English  elm,  is  most  frequently  met  with  in  Parks  and  pleasure 
grounds.  It  is  of  a  tall  upright  habit,  attaining  the  heighth  of 
60  or  70  feet. 

The  Scotch  or  Wych  Elm,  has  not  so  upright  a  trunk  as  the 
English,  and  it  soon  divides  into  long  widely  spreading,  some- 
what drooping,  branches,  forming  a  large  spreading  tree,  and  is 
of  quick  growth. 

The  Dutch  corked  barked  elm  (  JJ.  campestris  major)  was  in- 
introduced  into  England  by  William  III.  from  Holland,  and  oc- 
casionally reaches  the  height  of  70  feet.  The  American  Elm, 
U.  americana,  reaches  to  a  great  heighth,  and  in  favourable  situa- 
tions displays  extraordinary  magnificence.  It  is  found  widely 
spread,  but  in  the  greatest  perfection  in  the  Eastern  States,  anri 
on  the  fertile  bottoms  of  the  western  waters.  In  New  England 
it  is  a  great  favourite,  and  has  been  generally  planted  in  \.\m 


68  THE   MANUAL    OF   GARDENING. 

villao-es  of  that  thriving  section  of  our  country.  Many  finp  8pe- 
cimeiis  exist  on  the  college  square  in  New  Haven;  and  at  Hart- 
ford are  trees  of  surpassing  srrandeur.  *'  Perm's  treaty  wiih  the 
Indians"  on  the  bank  of  the  Delaware,  was  held  under  the  shade 
of  an  Elm,  which  but  a  few  years  since  still  lived. — The  his- 
torical society  has  erected  a  marble  monument  to  commemorate 
the  scite. 

The  Elm  is  subject  to  the  attack  of  insect?,  which  greatly 
mars  its  beauty,  and  until  some  remedy  is  found,  must  retard  its 
culture  in  this  section. 

ViRGiLiA  LUTEA,  or  ypllow  wood. — This  is  a  pretty  American 
tree,  but  very  little  known,  producing  pendulous  racemes  of  pa- 
pilionaceous flowers  of  snowy  whiteness.  Fine  specimens  exist 
at  the  Landrelh  Nurseries,  from  seed  collected  by  that  indefati- 
gable botanist,  the  late  Mr.  Lyon,  who  first  introduced  it  into 
Europe.    It  grows  freely,  but  succeeds  better  on  a  light  dry  soil. 


CHAPTER  V. 

HARDY  EVERGREEN  TREES.  — This  conspicuous  and 
highly  ornamental  class  of  vegetables,  deserves  more  particular 
notice,  than  the  limited  pages  of  this  little  book  admits;  a  vo- 
lume of  ample  size  might  be  occupied  with  them  alone.  We 
have  done  all  that  our  scheme  permitted,  and  described  some  of 
the  more  desirable  ;  it  is  hoped  with  sufficient  accuracy  to  enable 
the  uninformed  to  make  collections  suited  to  their  wants,  and  the 
extent  of  their  grounds. 

The  Pine  tribe  admits  of  cultivation  on  nearly  all  land,  though 
naturally  they  are  found  on  rocky,  gravelly  and  sandy  soils;  in  a 
cultivated  state,  however,  we  may  see  them  on  all  descriptions 
of  land,  from  light  sand  to  that  of  strong  clay,  proving  them  to 
be  of  an  accommodating  habit,  and  consequently  adapted  to  orna- 
ment almost  every  spot  where  we  may  wish  to  plant.  Where 
there  is  room  for  the  larger  growing  kinds,  nothino-  can  be  planted 
which  will  give  so  marked  a  character  to  a  residence,  especially 
in  the  winter,  when  they  contrast  more  strongly  wnth  the  denuded 
forpst.  To  illustrate  this,  let  the  reader  observe  the  effect  pro- 
duced on  the  landscape,  where  the  red  cedar  has  been  permitted 
to  stand,  either  by  the  road  side,  or  in  single  trees,  scattered  over 
the  farm;  a  practice,  by  the  by,  which  it  is  to  be  regretted, 
has  not  been  more  frequently  allowed. 

If  strict  economy  be  a  consideration  with  the  proprietor  of  an 
estate,  there  are  evergreen  trees  which  maybe  obtained  in  many 
eituations  at  the  cost  of  labour  only ;  but  where  the  expenditure 


THE    MANUAL    OP   GARDENING.  69' 

of  a  few  dollars  is  admissible,  evergreens  of  rare  and  desirable 
variety  may  be  procured  at  the  Nurseries ;  and  if  those  of  a  me- 
dium size  are  purchased,  quite  a  number  may  be  obtained  for  a 
very  moderate  sum ;  and  in  a  few  years,  with  proper  attention, 
they  will  hare  become  quite  con?picuous  objects;  a  gratification 
to  himself,  an  ornament  to  his  neighbourhood,  and  in  the  eyes  of 
many,  of  increased  value  to  the  farm  or  residence. 

Several  of  the  pine  family  do  not  succeed  well  in  the  confined 
and  smoky  atmosphere  of  the  city  ;  but  as  room  is  seidom  found 
in  city  irardens  for  large  growing  trees,  it  is  of  the  less  import- 
ance;  many  of  those  of  dwarf  habit  thrive  admirably,  indeed 
most  of  them,  except  those  yielding  turpentine  in  excess. 

Evergreens  are,  by  many,  thought  to  transplant  with  greater 
success  in  the  spring;  and  on  heavy  land,  we  incline  to  that 
opinion  :  but  when  the  soil  is  light,  or  well  drained  by  a  gravelly 
6ub-stratum,«transplanting  in  the  autumn  is  equally  secure.  It 
should  be  observed,  that  as  evergreens  are  violently  acted  on  by 
wind,  they  require  to  be  securely  staked  when  newly  planted. — 
For  full  remarks  on  transplanting,  see  page  16. 

Buxus. — The  Arborescenes,  or  Tree- Box,  both  plain-leaved, 
and  variegated,  are  ornamental,  and  may  be  clipped  to  suit  the 
fancy. 

CupRESsus  THUYoiDEs, — the  white  cedar,  has  been  but  little 
cultivated  as  an  ornamental  tree;  but  where  the  grounds  are 
extensive,  deserves  a  place ;  it  thrives  best  in  damp  situations,  or 
on  heavy  loamy  land. 

Ilex,  Holly. — There  are  several  species  and  varieties  of  the 
holly  :  one  of  which  is  indigenous,  and  forms  a  beautiful  tree, 
clothed  in  winter  with  bright  scarlet  berries,  which  contrast 
cheerfully  with  its  deep  green,  shining  leaves.  The  familiar 
robin,  and  other  birds,  delight  in  the  berries;  and  where  the  trees 
are  planted  in  view,  give  a  cheerful  tone  to  the  winter  scene. 
The  European  varieties,  which  are  handsomer  than  our  own,  do 
not  support  the  winter  of  the  middle  states;  south  of  Virginia 
they  would  no  doubt  thrive,  and  prove  quite  an  acquisition. 

JuNiPERUs  SuECiA,  the  Swedish  Juniper,  is  a  dvv-arf, 
conical,  rather  cylindrical  shaped,  tree,  adapted  to  small 
gardens;  seldom  rising  higher  than  ten  feet,  unless  when  of 
great  age,  when  it  occasionally  reaches  eighteen  feet,  and,  as  it 
supports  the  confined  air  of  the  town,  is,  on  that  account,  also, 
desirable. 

It  is  a  native  of  Sweden,  Denmark,  and  Norway,  but  found  in 
a  cultivated  state  throughout  Europe  ;  and  the  older  portions  of 
the  United  States.  The  berries  are  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
gin;  and  in  France  for  a  kind  of  beer  called  genevreUe. 

The  /.  Virginiana,  or   Red  Cedar,  of  our  country,  is  fully 


70  THE   MANUAL   OF  GARDENING. 

known  to  all  who  know  any  thing-  of  rural  life;  and,  according  to 
Michaux,  the  author  of  the  '*  North  American  Sylva,"  ought  to 
be  known  to  the  citizens  of  Philadelphia,  "  where,"  he  says, 
(with  quite  as  nauch  veracity  as  some  other  travellers,  who 
have  commented  on  our  social,  moral,  and  political  condition,) 
*'  the  barriers  (meaning  the  curbs)  are  made  of  this  wood,  and 
are  sold  at  eighty  cents  each" !  As  an  ornamental  tree,  it  is 
highly  valued  in  England,  and  certainly  greatly  adds  to  the 
beauty  of  the  landscape  wherever  seen.  It  answers  admirably 
for  ornamental  hedges,  or  to  screen  unsightly  objects. 

Magnolia  grandiflora. — See  page  63. 

Mespilus  pyracantha,  the  Evergreen  Thorn,  is  chiefly 
admired  for  the  beauty  of  its  numerous  clusters  of  red  berries, 
which  contrasting  with  its  green  leaves  at  the  most  gloomy 
season  of  the  year,  make  it  extremely  ornamental  in  a  lawn  or 
in  front  of  a  house.  It  is  a  native  of  the  south  of  Europe ;  tiie 
flower  is  white,  slightly  tinged  with  rose  colour.  It  is  propa- 
gated by  seeds,  grafts,  and  layers.  There  are  two  other 
varieties,  the  double,  and  the  rose-coloured,  which  are  more 
rare.  It  is  also  used  for  ornamental  hedges;  the  deep  green 
foliage,  and  scarlet  berries  producing,  during  winter,  a  pleasing 
efl^ect ;  it  is  rather  tender  in  the  climate  of  Philadelphia,  unless 
the  soil  be  dry. 

PiNus. — Under  the  general  head  of  Pine,  as  being  more 
popularly  known,  we  shall  include  the  White,  or  Silver  Pine; 
the  Balm  of  Gilead  Fir;  the  Hemlock  Spruce;  the  Black, 
"White,  and  Red  Spruce ;  Silver  Fir ;  Scotch  Fir ;  and  Norway 
Fir. 

The  White  Pine  (P.  Strobus),  is  both  highly  useful  and 
ornamental,  and  is  found  on  elevated  land  from  Canada  to  Vir- 
ginia. It  sometimes  reaches  the  height  of  180  feet,  and  6  or  7 
feet  in  diameter.  The  wood  is  remarkably  white — hence  called 
white  pine  by  lumber-men. 

W^hen  young,  and  for  the  first  thirty  or  forty  years,  it  is 
pleasing,  but  as  it  advances  in  life  the  branches  become  ridged, 
and  easily  broken  by  sleet  and  snow. 

The  Scotch  Fir  or  Pine,  P.  sylvestris, 

"  That  prince,  of  mountain  race. 
The  fir,  the  Scotch  fir,  never  out  of  place." 

Chukchill. 

is  of  all  pines,  probably  the  one  most  known  in  Europe.  It  has 
been  cultivated  to  a  vast  extent  in  the  mountainous  regions  of 
Scotland,  where  plantations  were  commenced  about  the  end  of 
the  seventeenth  century.  The  Rothiemurchus  Forest,  which 
covered  sixteen  square  miles,  for  many  years  made  large  returns 


THE  MANUAL    OP   GARDENING.  71 

to  its  owner,  the  annual  profit  being,  sometimes,  $100,000  per 
annum. 

The  tree  is  strong,  hardy,  vigorous,  and  though  not  so  orna- 
mental as  some  .other  pines,  fully  merits  a  share  of  notice.  There 
are  some  good  specimens  at  McMahon's  Nursery. 

The  Norway  Fir  {Abies  excelsa),  is  the  loftiest  of  European 
trees.  Its  widely  extended  branches  spread  out  on  every  side, 
so  as  to  form  a  cone-like  or  pyramidal  shape,  terminating  in  an 
arrow-like  leading  shoot.  The  branches,  in  young  trees,  are 
dispersed  in  regular  whorls,  from  the  base  to  the  summit,  and 
are  nearly  horizontal;  but  when  old  droop  gradually  at  the 
extremities.  On  the  whole  it  is  a  most  desirable  evergreen 
tree,  and  no  lawn  of  sufficient  extent  should  be  without  it.  A 
noble  specimen  may  be  seen  at  Bartram's. 

The  black,  red,  and  white,  spruce  firs  (A.  nigra,  rubra,  and 
alba),  are  quite  ornamental,  the  latter  particularly  so. 

The  Hemlock  Spruce,  A.  Canadensis,  is  an  elegant  tree,  from 
the  symmetrical  disposition  of  the  branches,  which  droop  grace- 
fully at  their  extremities,  and  also  from  its  light  and  tufted  foli- 
age. As  it  advances  in  age,  the  limbs  become  brittle,  and  readily 
broken  by  heavy  snows ;  but  it  is  not  liable  to  that  disaster  until 
30  or  40  years  old.  The  Hemlock  Spruce  bears  the  shears  well, 
and  forms  a  handsome  inside  hedge. 

The  Silver  Fir,  Picea  pectinata,  or  comb-like  leaved  silver  fir, 
has  been  termed  the  noblest  tree  of  its  genus,  rising  to  an  eleva- 
tion of  180  feet,  with  an  erect  stem,  regularly  furnished  with 
whorls  of  candelabrum-like  branches.  The  leaves  are  of  a  dark 
green  on  the  upper  surface,  and  silvery  beneath ;  hence  its  com- 
mon name.  The  cones  are  large,  and  have  a  fine  appearance, 
both  before  and  after  they  are  mature.  It  is  indigenous  to  the 
mountains  of  central  Europe,  and  the  west  and  north  of  Asia; 
and  is  found  in  France,  Italy,  Greece,  and  south  of  Germany. 
The  finest  specimens  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Philadelphia  are 
ac  Landreth's,  (south  5lh  street,)  imported  many  years  since,  and 
now  40  feet  high,  and  regularly  formed.  It  likes  a  deep  rich 
loam,  not  too  moist. 

The  Balm  of  Gilead  Fir,  Picea  balsamea,  or  American  silver 
fir,  is  a  pyramidal  tree,  in  general  appearance  resembling  the 
European  silver  fir;  when  standing  alone  it  forms  a  symmetrical 
tree,  abundantly  furnished  with  leaves,  and  is  certainly  a  beauti- 
ful object  when  young;  but  it  declines  in  old  age,  and  from  the 
brittle  nature  of  the  wood  frequently  exhibits  a  branchless,  muti- 
lated trunk.  The  true  silver  fir,  on  the  contrary,  retains  its 
elasticity,  and  is  magnificent  when  old. 

Rhododendroiv — This  is  one  of  the  most  showy  and  beautiful 
shrubs  produced  in  our  gardens,and  as  such  deserve  assiduous  care : 


7^2  THE   MAlfUAL   OF   GARDENING. 

they  require  peculiar  treatment,  in  order  to  have  them  in  any  per- 
fection. They  succeed  best  when  planted  under  a  north  wall ;  for 
if  exposed  to  the  full  blaze  of  a  sprins:  or  summer  sun,  the  leaves 
will  become  brown  and  sickly,  and  in  the  summer  the  plant  will 
perish  from  drought,  no  supply  of  water  beinjr  adequate  to  their 
wants  in  such  a  situation.  They  must  be  planted  in  pure  peat 
or  heath-mould,  for  they  will  not  thrive  in  garden-mould,  or  loam, 
though  a  small  portion  of  the  former  may  be  added  to  the  peat  or 
heath. 

If  planted  in  an  open  or  exposed  situation,  it  will  be  requisite 
to  water  them  frequently,  or  their  flower-buds  will  wither  vvith- 
out  expanding.  They  are  propagated  by  layers,  by  seed,  or  by 
cuttings;  but  most  easily  by  the  two  formf^r.  Great  care  is  re- 
quired to  raise  the  plants  from  seeds,  which  must  be  sown  very 
early  in  the  spring  in  pots,  in  a  sandy  soil,  and  but  sparingly 
watered.  When  six  weeks  old  they  may  be  potted  out  singly, 
but  they  require  all  this  time  artificial  heat.  Cuttings  of  young 
wood  will  strike  under  hand-glasses,  if  the  air  is  excluded  by 
pressing  down  the  glass. 

The  Rhododendron  maximum^  or  Mountain  Laurel,  is  the  or- 
nament of  our  mountain  passes;  it  tiirives  well  in  a  cultivated 
Btate,  when  planted  in  a  damp  shady  spot,  in  soil  composed  of 
light  wood-earth  and  loam  :  and  is,  from  the  fact  of  its  delighting 
in  shade,  particularly  valuable  in  cities,  where  the  sun  does  not 
always  reach  the  gardens. 

Taxus  baccata.  The  Yew,  is  an  invariable  appendage  to  an 
English  church-yard  ;  but  the  custom  for  thus  planting  them  has 
never  been  satisfactorily  explained.  Some  have  supposed  they 
were  placed  there  to  afford  branches  on  Palm  Sunday:  others 
that  they  were  emblematical  of  silence  and  death. 

"  Beneath  those  rugged  elms,  t?iat  yew  tree's  shade, 
Where  heaves  the  turl  in  many  a  mould'ring  heap, 
Each  in  his  narrow  cell  securely  laid, 

The  rude  forefathers  of  the  hamlet  sleep." 

Gray. 

They  now,  however,  form  the  most  ancient  and  venerable  trees 
in  Britain;  some  are  supposed  to  be  upward?  of  1000  years  old. 
One  near  Staines,  known  as  the  Ankerwyke  yew,  tradition  says," 
was  made  by  Henry  VIII.  the  place  of  meeting  Anna  Boleyn, 
wbili?  she  was  living  at  Staines.  The  use  of  the  yew  in  ancient 
gardening,  during  the  17th  century,  was  very  general.  It  was 
the  practice  at  that  time  to  clip  it  into  all  sorts  of  fantastical 
shapes;  in  modern  gardening  it  is  principally  valued  for  single 
trees,  and  small  groups  in  particular  situations.  It  will  grow 
in  any  soil,  and  thrive  under  the  shade  and  drip  of  trees. 

Thuja,   The  Arhorvilce. — The  T.  occidentaiis,  or  American 


THE    MANUAL     OP    GARDENING.  73 

RYborvitsfe,  is  a  slender  tree,  sometimes  rising  in  its  natural  situa- 
tion to  the  heighth  of  40  or  50  feet.  Its  form  is  spiral,  and  when 
in  contrast  with  trees  of  other  habit,  quite  agreeable.  It  bears 
the  shears  v.-ell,  and  if  grown  as  a  hedge  or  screen,  may  be  clipped 
to  the  taste  of  the  cultivator.  A  cool  soil  is  best  suited  to  it, 
though  fine  plants  may  bo  found  in  a  cultivated  state,  on  light 
sandy  land. 

The  Chinese  variety,  T.  orientalls,  is  not  very  unlike  the 
American,  but  may  be  distinguished  from  it  by  the  leaves  or 
scales  being  smaller,  closer  together,  and  of  a  lighter  or  yellow- 
ish green.  This  variety  is  also  adapted  for  hedges,  but  is  not  as 
good-looking  when  old  ;  single  plants,  neatly  sheared,  have  a 
pleasing  appearance. 


CHAPTER    VI. 

HARDY  VINES  AND  CREEPERS.— The  principal  con- 
sideration  in  the  selection  of  vines,  is  to  procure  such  as  are 
adapted  to  the  particular  purpose  the  planter  may  have  in  view; 
if  to  cover  a  wall  of  considerable  height',  it  will  be  necessary  to 
obtain  those  which  adhere  by  m.eans  of  radicals;  but  if  the  space 
to  be  covered  admits  of  support  being  rendered,  there  will  he  a 
larger  number  from  which  *o  choose,  as  it  is  unimportant  whether 
they  have  or  have  not  radicals.  Vines  are  usually  planted  for 
covering  dead  walls,  screening  unsig^htly  objects,  training  on  up- 
right stakes  against  fences,  &c.  The  variety  described  herein, 
may  enable  tiie  amateur  to  make  a  judicious  selection,  or  if  he 
prefer  running  roses  for  certain  spots,  he  will  find  such  under 
their  proper  head.  The  management  of  vines  is  not  unlike  that 
directed  for  shrubs;  the  soil  they  mostly  admire  is  light  rich 
loam.  If  they  are  planted  and  trained  as  ornaments  of  the  gar- 
den, care  should  be  taken  to  remove  all  dead  branches,  and 
shorten  from  time  to  time,  especially  early  in  the  spring,  the  long 
slender  shoots,  v/hich  will  strengthen  the  vine,  and  promote  bloom. 

Ampelopsis  qlinquefoua,  or  Virginia  five-leaved  Ivy,  is  of 
rapid  growth,  adheres  firmly  to  walls,  and  in  autumn  the  foliage 
assumes  a  red  and  purple  hue. 

Aristolochia  sipho  ;  Birthwort,  or  Dutch  Pipe;  so  called 
from  the  peculiar  shape  of  the  flowers.  The  leaves  are  large, 
not  unlike  the  fox  grape ;  and  the  plant  is  of  strong  grov;th;  requires 
training  and  support. 

Bignonia,  Trumpet  Flower. — The  radicans  or  common,  is  an 
extremely  hardy  robust  vine;  clings  to  walls,  trees,  or  any  thing 
that  affords  support;  and  produces  clusters  of  dull  red  flowers. 
7 


4  THE   MANUAL   OF  GARDENING. 

The  B.  grandiflora  resembles  the  former  in  some  particulars, 
but  is  far  more  desirable.  Its  showy  flowers  are  borne  in  large 
racemes,  which  gradually  expand,  and  thus  continue  many 
weeks  in  bloom.  It  is  from  China,  but  quite  hardy  with  a 
southern  exposure,  in  the  climate  of  Philadelphia.  A  fine  spe- 
cimen 30  feet  high,  is  at  Landreth's.  The  B.  crucigera,  is  a 
strong  vine,  and  adheres  to  walls;  flowers  of  a  deep  orange 
colour. 

Celastrus  scandans,  or  Staff-Tree,  is  covered  in  autumn 
with  clusters  of  bright  red  berries — requires  support. 

Clematis,  or  Virgiri's  Bower,  is  a  most  beautiful  climbing 
plant ;  its  fragrance  gains  it  general  favour.  It  is  hardy,  bearing 
a  white  blossom  nearly  all  the  summer.  Another  variety  bears 
a  bluish  purple  flower,  succeeded  by  handsome  red  berries:  this 
is  prettier  than  the  first,  but  wants  its  fragrance.  They  are 
easily  propagated  by  layers,  from  seeds,  or  by  parting  the  roots; — 
requires  support. 

Gelsemium  NiTiDUM,  Carolina  Jasmine,  is  a  native  vine, 
yielding  a  profusion  of  yellow  flowers  of  delicious  perfume.  It 
requires  a  warm  situation  in  the  middle  states.  The  best  posi- 
sition  is  against  a  wall  with  southern  exposure  —  requires 
support. 

Hedera  helix,  Ivy.     See  p.  73. 

Jasminum  officinale,  common  hardy  Jasmine,  is  a  native  of 
Malabar — it  will  grow  in  any  foil,  and  when  trained  against  a 
wall  or  house,  will  attain  a  great  height.  The  blossoms  are 
white  and  pretty  :  the  scent  is  delightful.  Care  must  be  taken 
with  this  and  similar  plants,  such  as  Clematis,  Sic,  to  prevent 
their  running  wild,  or  by  the  other  extreme  of  cutting  them  too 
close  in  the  summer,  which  prevents  their  bearing  many  flowers. 
It  is  recommended  that  they  should  be  freely  pruned  in  the  win- 
ter, but  should  not  be  deprived  of  their  lateral  shoots  in  the  sum- 
mer, as  it  is  from  the  extremities  of  these  that  the  greater  part 
of  the  flowers  are  produced.  Instead  of  cutting  them  ofl",  the 
larger  ones  should  be  fastened  to  the  wall,  and  the  smaller  ones 
allowed  to  protrude  :  thus  the  flowers  will  be  shown  to  advantage. 
The  young  laterals  may  be  pruned  down  to  short  spurs  in  the 
winter,  and  these  will  shoot  out  fresh  laterals  in  the  spring;  thus 
producing  a  good  supply  of  flowers  at  their  points.  This  system 
of  spurring  the  young  shoots  in  winter,  and  allowing  them  to 
take  their  own  course  in  the  summer,  (unless  they  become  too 
Btraggling,)  is  all  the  care  they  require,  as  soil  and  situation  are 
of  but  little  importance.  They  like  protection  from  very  cold 
winds,  and  a  good  share  of  sun  to  bring  forw'ard  their  flowers: 
they  are  propagated  by  suckers.  The  yellow  Jasmine  is  culti- 
vated in  a  similar  manner;  but  it  does  not  grow  so  high  or  rapi.div 
consequently  requires  less  pruning  ; — all  require  support. 


THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDENING.  75 

LoNicERA,  Honeysuckle,  is  a  climbing  shrub,  found  in  all  parts 
of  Europe.  It  grows  well  against  walls  or  the  sides  of  bovvers  : 
It  may  be  trained  up  trellis  work ;  or  if  planted  at  the  foot  of  a 
tree,  may  be  supported  by  it,  and  adds  at  once  grace  and  fra- 
grance  to  the  bower  or  porch.  There  are  five  or  six  kinds  of 
this  plant  besides  the  belgica,  the  one  above.  The  Red-berried 
is  a  native  of  Switzerland,  and  does  not  exceed  four  feet  in 
height.  The  Trumpet,  from  North  America,  is  very  handsome. 
The  L.  flexuosa  is  perhaps  the  most  desirable  variety  of  this 
tribe  ;  its  flowers  and  foliage  are  alike  beautiful,  while  its  inces- 
sant bloom  and  pleasant  perfume  increases  its  value.  The 
Honeysuckle  is  propagated  by  layers,  or  by  cuttings,  put  in 
either  in  the  spring  or  autumn, 

ViNCA,  Periwinkle,  the  large,  a  trailing  plant,  looks  well  at 
the  bottom  of  a  trellis,  up  which  higher  climbers  grow.  It  bears 
a  pretty  blue  flower  during  the  whole  of  summer,  and  propao-ates 
itself  plentifully  by  its  suckers.  It  likes  the  shade,  and"wil] 
therefore  grow  at  the  bottom  of  trees,  and  among  rock-work. 

Wistaria,  Glycine,  named  in  honour  of  the  late  Dr.  Caspar 
Wistar,  of  Philadelphia.  The  common  Glycine,  W.frutescens, 
is  well  known,  and  desirable  on  account  of  its  fine  purple  flowers. 
The  W.  conscquena,  sinensis,  or  chinensis,  by  each  of  which 
names  it  is  occasionally  specified,  is  unquestionably  one  of 
the  most  lovely  and  ornamental  plants  that  can  be  obtained  for 
training  against  a  wall;  but  as  the  flowers  begin  to  expand  very 
early  in  the  spring,  they  require  to  be  slightly  protected,  or  they 
are  liable  to  be  injured  by  the  spring  frosts.  If  it  be  placed 
against  a  south  wall,  not  much  exposed  to  wind,  it  will  stand  the 
winter  perfectly  well. 

^  The  flowers  are  larger  than  those  of  W.fritlescens ;  disposed 
in  longer  and  looser  racemes,  and  are  somewhat  paler  in  colour. 
In  established  plants,  they  are  produced  in  great  abundance.  It 
has  been  pronounced  the  most  magnificent  of  hardy  deciduous 
climbers.  It  may  be  made  to  flower  frequently  during  summer, 
by  stripping  off"  the  leaves,  and  cutting  ofi"  all  young  and  super- 
fluous shoots,  which  have  been  formed  to  within  a  ie\w  eyes  of 
the  stem,  which  causes  it  to  throw  out  fresh  leaves  and  flowers. 
When  the  bloom  thus  induced  is  over,  the  same  process  may  be 
repeated,  and  thus  an  abundant  succession  of  flowers  may  be 
insured  throughout  the  season.  These  remarks  do  not  apply  to 
young  plants. — It  requires  support. 


76  THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDENING. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

HARDY  HERBACEOUS,  BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS- 
ROOTED  PLATnTS.— The  ornaments  of  the  garden  usually 
classed  under  these  heads,  are  multitudinous;  and  when  united 
with  those  termed  annuals,  in  many  cases  where  the  grounds  are 
of  very  limited  extent,  form  the  principal  decoration.  In  all 
gardens,  however  lai^e,  they  are  important,  the  more  so  from 
their  variety,  the  different  periods  of  bloom,  and  their  hardy  nature, 
and  consequently  little  care  demanded  by  them.  Plants  of  this 
character  usually  occupy  (except  it  be  some  of  the  tall  growing 
ones)  the  space  in  front  of  the  shrubbery,  and  next  adjoining  the 
v/alks;  and  if  planted  with  due  regard  to  their  relative  height, 
so  as  to  bring  the  dwarfest  nearest  the  eye,  and  the  tallest  grad- 
ually receding,  a  more  agreeable  effect  is  produced. 

They  should  also  be  planted  with  sufficient  space  between  each 
specimen,  especially  those  in  front,  to  admit  groups  of  annual 
flowers,  many  of  w'hich  are  of  vivid  colour,  and  others  as  the 
mignonetto,  highly  odoriferous;  of  which  a  few  seeds  should  be  scat- 
tered in  every  niche  which  may  be  found  vacant.  Hyacinths^  Tu- 
lips, Narcissus  and  Crocus^  may  also  be  interspersed  in  clumps  with 
good  effect.  In  the  autumn  when  vegetation  has  ceased,  it  will 
be  found  of  advantage  to  place  a  stick  firmly  fixed  in  the  earth, 
beside  each  plant  or  bulb,  to  mark  the  spot  it  occupies,  else  when 
digging  in  the  spring  they  will  be  liable  to  injury.  If  the  soil  is 
heavy,  and  consequently  strongly  acted  on  by  frost,  benefit  will 
be  found  in  spreading  a  coat  of  long  manure  over  the  surface,  to 
protect  the  more  delicate  ones  from  being  drawn;  the  manure 
may  be  dug  in  the  spring,  and  thus  effect  a  double  purpose. 

Aconite,  or  Monkshood, — There  are  several  varieties  of  this 
plant;  the  most  common  is  deep  blue,  and  its  flowers  resemble  a 
hood.  It  is  extremely  poisonous  in  all  its  parts;  even  its  smell 
is  said  to  be  injurious.  It  is  hardy,  and  looks  well  in  borders. 
It  is  propagated  by  parting  the  roots  in  the  autumn. 

The  Winter  Aconite  (Eranthis  hyemalis,)  is  one  of  our 
earliest  flowering  plants,  producing  its  little  yellow  flowers  as 
early  as  February,  or  even  January.  It  is  a  tuberous  root,  and 
'ooks  well  in  small  clumps,  alternating  with  the  snow-drop,  as  it 
blossoms  at  the  same  time.  The  roots  should  be  taken  up  when 
the  leaves  and  flowers  are  faded,  not  sooner,  or  its  tubes  will  be 
injured  ;  but  it  must  not  be  kept  long  out  of  the  ground,  or  the 
tubers  will  perish.  It  is  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots  when 
planted. 

Althe  sinensis,  the  Hollyhock,  likes  good  rich  soil,  and  grows 
to  the  height  of  ten  or  twelve  feet.     The  Chinese  is  a  hardy  pe-j 


THE    MANUAL    OF    GARDENING.  77 

rennial,  from  China ;  both  sorts  are  propagated  by  seeds  sown 
in  the  open  ground,  in  spring  or  autum.  After  they  come  up, 
they  may  be  transplanted  into  a  permanent  situation :  they  flower 
the  second  year.  The  common  may  be  increased  by  dividing 
the  roots. 

The  Anemone,  or  Wind-Jloicer,  a  hardy  tuberous-rooted  plant 
from  the  Levant.  There  are  two  sortr',  the  single  and  double. 
The  tubers  should  be  planted  about  the  month  of  October,  re- 
serving a  fevv'  to  plant  early  in  February,  or  late  in  January,  if  it  be 
mild  and  dry.  By  this  means  a  succession  of  flowers  will  be 
obtained.  A  rich  loamy  soil,  with  a  slight  mixture  of  well-rotted 
dung,  is  best  fitted  for  them.  They  should  be  planted  in  narrow 
beds,  about  three  or  four  feet  wide,  finished  a  little  rounding,  with 
a  smooth  even  surface.  The  beds  should  be  formed  by  trenching, 
and  laying  in,  about  eight  inches  from  the  surface,  a  substratum 
of  strong  loam,  and  on  this  a  surface  layer  of  lighter  earth  to 
receive  the  tubers.  These  beds  may  be  prepared  in  September, 
though  they  do  not  receive  the  roots  till  the  following  month. 
The  tubers  should  be  six  inches  apart  each  way,  a  shallow  drill 
be  drawn  along  the  bed,  and  the  roots  be  pressed  down  into  it, 
and  then  covered  with  about  two  inches  of  soil.  The  tubers  best 
adapted  for  planting  are  those  of  the  middle  size,  as  they  will 
flower  best;  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  the  eye  of  the  root  up- 
permost, to  ensure  their  flowering  well.  If  the  weather  should 
prove  very  severe,  some  slight  protection  may  be  afforded  to  those 
planted  in  the  autumn,  by  laying  a  little  straw  or  litter  on  the 
beds,  always  withdrawing  it  when  the  weather  is  favourable,  and 
fully  exposing  them  to  light  and  air.  When  they  appear  above 
ground,  the  earth  should  be  firmly  pressed  about  each  plant. 
When  the  flowers  expand,  they  will  keep  in  bloom  a  much 
greater  length  of  time,  if  some  thin  light  shade  is  placed  over 
them  during  the  heat  of  the  day.  The  tubers  should  be  taken 
up  as  soon  as  the  leaves  decay,  which  may  be  expedited  by  shel- 
tering them  with  canvass  or  mats  in  very  wet  weather.  When 
the  tubers  are  taken  up,  they  should  be  carefully  dried,  all  the 
soil  removed  from  them  with  great  care,  and  be  stored  in  dry 
bags  or  boxes.  The  y^ung  off*sets  should  not  be  detached  till 
about  a  month  after,  or  they  are  liable  to  shrivel;  if,  on  the  other 
hand,  they  are  left  on  till  the  roots  are  again  planted,  they  are 
apt  to  rot. 

When  the  young  offsets  are  planted  in  October,  they  will  fre- 
quently flower  the  ensuing  year.  If  the  Anemone  be  propagated 
by  seed,  it  must  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  pots  or  boxes,  in  a 
loamy  soil,  covered  very  thinly  with  light  earth.  They  must  be 
slightly  protected  during  the  winter,  and  in  the  spring  the  pots 
be  plunged  their  whole  depth  in  the  soil,  and  the  plants  watered 
when  requisite.  When  the  leaves  begin  to  wither,  gradually 
7* 


/8  THE   MANUAL    OF   GARDENING. 

cease  watering;  and  when  the  leaves  are  decayed,  take  up  the 
tubers  and  treat  them  like  the  old  ones. 

The  single  and  half  double  Anemones  are,  in  some  instancea, 
little  less  prized  than  the  double  ones;  and  even  the  commonesl 
ones,  when  planted  in  groups,  make  a  brilliant  appearance,  more 
paiticularly  when  they  are  brought  to  blow  in  the  winter,  or  early 
in  the  spring,  when  other  flowers  are  scarce. 

A.  Hepatica,  is  a  native  of  the  mountainous  parts  of 
Switzerland  and  Sweden;  consequently  quite  hardy.  It  is 
a  species  of  the  Anemone,  or  wind  flower:  its  beautiful 
pinkish  or  white  blossoms  appear  before  the  leaves,  in  the 
spring,  almost  as  early  as  the  Snow-drop.  They  thrive  best  in 
a  strong  loamy  soil,  with  an  eastern  aspect;  but  above  all  re- 
quire pure  air.  They  are  not  of  very  easy  cultivation  ;  but  they 
may  be  raised  either  from  seed,  or  by  dividing  the  roots.  The 
seed  must  be  sovv'n  in  pots  in  the  beginning  of  August,  and  treated 
as  Auriculas,  which  see.  Plant  out  the  seedlings  in  the  succeed- 
ing August.  There  are  two  sorts,  the  double  and  single ;  the 
former  flowers  a  week  or  two  later  than  the  single  ones,  and 
keeps  longer  in  flower.  They  may  have  their  roots  parted  in 
March,  while  in  fiovv-er,  and  be  immediately  planted  in  clumps, 
and  not  be  disturbed  again  for  three  or  four  years,  otherwise  they 
will  not  flower,  as  their  buds  are  formed  in  spring  before  they 
blow  ;  and  after  being  taken  up  they  are  alv.'ays  weakened,  some- 
times die,  and  seldom  blow  well  till  tiie  third  year. 

Amaryllis,  the  A.  formossissima,  or  Jacobean  lily,  —  pro- 
duces rich  crimson  flowers  of  the  texture  of  silk  velvet.  Plant  in 
April,  in  ^ood  ground,  and  remove  before  frost  to  a  dry,  warm 
place.  A.  longifolia  is  quite  hardy,  requires  strong  soil,  and  an 
airy  exposure.  f. 

Antirrhinum  (or  Snap  Dragon). — A  perennial  plant,  which 
will  grow  on  the  tops  of  old  buildings,  old  walls,  or  on  heaps  of 
old  dry  rubbish.  Some  of  the  varieties,  of  late  introduction,  are 
very  pretty,  and  fully  merit  a  choice  position  in  the  garden. 

Agrostemma  (the  Rose  Campion),  blows  a  red  flower  from 
June  to  September.  It  likes  a  wanv^,.  dryish  soil ;  should  be 
propagated  first,  by  sowing  the  seed,  when  ripe,  in  light  earth, 
and  planting  out  in  the  spring — afterwards,  it  will  sow  itself. 

Aquilegia  (Coiinnbine). — A  perennial  and  indigenous  plant; 
it  grows  two  or  three  feet  higli,  and  is  much  given  to  sport  its 
colours,  as  well  as  to  the  doubling  of  its  flowers;  the  same  seed 
producing  varieties  of  white,  blue,  red,  and  often  mottled.  It  is 
best  rallied  from  seed,  and  where  it  has  been  once  grown  it  will 
abundantly  sow  itself,  and  the  scattered  plants  may  be  taken  up 
end  replanted.     They  will  commonly  blow  the  second  year. 

BejAjIS  {the  Daisy),  is  indigenous  to  England:  it  is  a  pretty, 


THE    MANUAL    OF    GARDENING.  79 

simple  flower,  and  looks  well  in  small  clumps  in  the  front  of  the 
border.  It  is  sometimes  used  for  an  edging;  it  should  be  parted 
every  year  to  prevent  its  degenerating,  which  it  will  do  speedily. 
There  are  more  than  half-a-dozen  varieties  of  this  modest  and 
pleasing  flower.  Seed  may  be  saved  from  the  double  varieties, 
and  sown  in  the  spring  like  other  hardy  perennials;  but  the 
common  method  of  propagation  is  by  dividing  the  plants  in 
autumn,  or  in  spring,  or  both,  which  is  indispensable  ;  for  like 
all  spreading  plants  they  greatly  deteriorate  the  soil,  and  ought 
not  to  stand  more  than  one  year  in  the  same  spot.  Daisies  have 
been  very  properly  recommended  for  rock-work  and  baskets, 
training  Petunia,  &c.,  over  the  handles. 

Campanula  pyramidalis. — A  beautiful  perennial  plant  from 
Savoy.  It  grows  about  four  feet  high,  and  the  top  of  the  stalk 
supports  a  pyramid  of  delicate  blue  flowers.  The  seed  comes 
up  readily,  if  sown  in  the  spring,  under  a  hand-glass,  not  being 
covered  too  deeply  with  earth.  In  the  fall  plant  in  a  nursery 
bed ;  and  in  the  spring  plant  in  the  flower  borders;  but  perhaps 
it  may  not  blow  till  the  following  year.  It  may  be  propagated 
by  parting  the  roots,  but  the  plants  decline  by  this  method.  It 
is  not  particular  as  to  soil ;  but  a  light  sandy  one  suits  it  best. 

The  C.  persicifolia,  or  the  Paper  Bell-flower,  is  perfectly 
hardy,  standing  the  severest  winter.  It  is  grown  both  in  pots 
and  in  the  open  ground.  There  are  varieties,  both  of  a  pale 
delicate  blue,  and  of  a  pure  white  ;  and  both  of  these  occur  double 
as  well  as  single.  They  run  tall,  and  produce  abundance  of 
flowers  from  June  till  September.  The  best  time  to  divide  the 
roots  is  after  it  has  done  flowering  in  autumn,  though,  if  neglected 
then,  it  may  be  done  in  the  spring.  Like  the  other  Campanulas 
it  prefers  a  light  sandy  soil,  and  requires  full  exposure  to  the 
sun's  rays.     A  rich  soil  causes  the  plant  to  rot. 

The  variety  of  Campanula  called  Canterbury  Bell,  is  a  bien 
rial,  and  should  be  sown  every  spring  to  form  a  succession.     It 
may  be  planted  out  till  November. 

Camelina  ccelestus. — This  plant  was  long  cultivated  as  a 
stove  plant  before  it  was  considered  sufficiently  hardy  to  grow  in 
the  open  ground ;  but  it  is  now  found  to  be  equally  hardy  with 
the  Dahlia.  The  root  consists  of  a  bundle  of  from  six  to  ten 
fleshy  long  tubers,  somewhat  similar  to  the  Dahlia  root;  the 
tubers,  however,  not  being  thicker  than  a  goose-quill.  From 
these,  in  the  spring,  there  shoots  up  lanceolate  leaves,  and  a 
flowering  stem,  rising  from  two  or  three  to  twelve  or  eighteen 
inches  high.  The  flowers  are  beautifully  blue,  and  succeed 
each  other  daily  from  the  beginning  of  May  till  the  end  of  Sep- 
tember, producing  abundance  of  seed.  They  are  propagated  by 
dividing  the  roots,  like  Dahlias,  or  by  the  seed,  which  may  be 
sovv^n  on  a  moderate  hot-bed,  with  the  other  annuals,  about  the 


80  THE    MANUAL    OP   GARDENING. 

middle  of  February,  or  in  the  open  ground  in  the  beginning  of 
April.  They  require  a  moderately  rich  and  light  garden 
mould;  the  seed  must  be  covered  about  half  an  inch  with  light 
sandy  earth.  If  the  weather  is  mild  the  plants  will  appear  in 
about  a  fortnight,  and  will  only  require  to  be  watered  when  the 
weather  is  dry.  They  may  be  removed  either  into  pots,  or  be 
put  in  clumps,  or  separately,  in  the  flower  bed  :  by  the  beginning 
of  July  they  will  blossom.  Those  raised  from  the  tubers  will 
flower  earlier.  When  left  in  the  earth  through  the  winter,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  cover  the  roots  with  a  few  inches  of  sand 
or  ashes;  but  they  may  be  taken  up  and  preserved  in  sand,  like 
as  Dahlias:  which  see. 

Cheiranthl's  {Stock-jilhj  flower). — There  are  two  biennial 
kinds,  the  Brompton  and  Queen's,  which  require  to  be  sown  in 
the  spring,  and  will  stand  our  winter,  protected  by  a  cold-frame, 
or  by  an  inverted  box,  or  keg,  partially  filled  with  leaves  or 
straw,  flowering  the  succeedinor  summer;  and  there  are  three 
annuals,  the  Ten  Week,  bearing  double  as  well  as  single  flowers, 
all  the  summer,  generally  forwarded  in  a  frame,  or  may  be  sown 
in  April,  in  a  pot,  and  brought  into  the  house  till  fit  to  plant  out, 
or  in  a  south  border:  it  is  very  fragrant,  and  a  general  favourite, 
of  various  colours,  red,  purple,  and  white.  There  are  also  the 
Wall-flower  leaved,  and  the  Indian,  treated  in  the  same  manner. 

The  Wall-flower. — A  very  sweet-smelling  and  early-flower- 
ing biennial,  both  single  and  double  flowered.  The  former 
grows  well  on  old  walls,  or  any  brick  and  lime  rubbish.  The 
double  is  not  very  hardy,  as  it  requires  protection  during  severe 
frosts,  as  recommended  for  the  stock-jilly ;  it  grows  well  in  pots, 
and  is  propagated  by  cuttings.  The  seed  of  the  single  Wall- 
flower will  grow  readily. 

Chrysanthemum  Sinense,  is  an  interesting  plant,  as  one  of 
the  last  to  blow,  being  in  perfection  in  November  and  December, 
It  is  much  attended  to  at  present,  and  is  found  of  various  colours, 
from  pure  white  to  dark  chocolate;  a  few  of  each,  neatly  trained 
in  pots,  will,  if  removed  to  the  house  in  October,  or  on  the 
approach  of  severe  frost,  continue  to  give  pleasure  after  all  out- 
door flowers  have  ceased  to  bloom.  It  is  easily  propagated, 
either  by  cuttings,  or  by  dividing  the  roots.  There  is  an  annual 
bearing  this  name,  a  variety  of  the  Corn  Marygold,  which  is 
propagated  by  seed. 

CoLCHicuM  AUTUMxVALE,  Autumnal  CrocuSf  produces  flow- 
ers in  autumn,  not  unlike  the  Vernal  Crocus. 

Crocus  vernus,  Spring  Crocus,  one  of  the  most  pleasing, 
because  one  of  the  earliest  flowering  bulbs.  There  are  several 
varieties,  and  when  judiciously  mixed,  and  planted  in  rows,  or 


THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDENING.  81 

clumps,  they  have  a  brilliant  appearance,  especially  when  the 
sun  shines  :  they  make  a  very  pleasing  show  when  planted  in  a 
row  near  the  edge  of  the  border.  They  may  be  taken  up 
annually,  but  not  kept  out  till  they  commence  growing.  When 
they  are  out  of  flower  their  grass  or  leaves  may  be  tied  in  knots, 
but  not  cut  off  till  withered,  or  it  will  injure  the  bulb.  They 
thrive  best  when  they  are  only  taken  up  once  in  three  years, 
when  abundance  of  otf-sets  will  be  found,  and  which  are  the 
means  of  their  propagation.  The  Crocus  should  be  planted 
about  two  inches  deep  in  the  ground.  Their  colours  are  yellow, 
purple,  and  striped :  they  sometimes  blossom  as  early  as  Jan'y. 
The  corms  of  the  various  sorts  of  Crocuses  must  be  planted  with 
a  trowel,  at  the  depth  of  about  two  inches,  allowing  six  inches 
from  plant  to  plant;  or  in  patches,  of  five  or  six  each,  in  fronts  of 
clumps  or  borders,  putting  them  in  late  in  the  autumn.  There 
are  upwards  of  twenty  named  varieties;  the  blue  and  small 
yellow  are  the  least  esteemed :  the  large  yellow,  cloth  of  gold, 
Scotch,  white,  and  purple,  are  next,  and  the  safi'ron  the  next  in 
value. 

CoNVALLARiA,  the  LtUj  of  the  Valley,  is  a  perennial,  of  small 
height,  but  of  great  beauty  and  fragrance.  It  likes  a  shady  spot, 
and  is  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots  early  in  the  spring. 

DiANTiius  {the  Pink). — These  beautiful  flowers  very  much 
resemble  the  Carnation.  They  are  sometimes  raised  from  seed  ; 
the  usual  method  o\  propagation  is  by  pipings.  When  layering 
is  practised,  use  the  method  recommended  under  the  head 
"  Carnation."  Thfj  time  to  pipe  pinks  is  during  the  bloom,  when 
the  new  shoots,  which  must  be  employed,  are  of  sufficient  length 
for  that  purpose.  The  cuttings  to  be  piped  must  be  shoots 
without  flower-buds,  having  two  complete  joints,  being  cut  ofl* 
horizontally  with  a  sharp  knife  close  under  the  second  joint. 
The  leaves  also  must  be  trimmed  off  from  the  joint  which  is  to 
be  inserted  in  the  soil.  When  the  pipings  are  prepared,  throw 
them  into  a  basin  of  soft  water.  The  place  for  their  reception 
ought  to  be  a  slight  hot-bed  ;  but  a  good  border,  having  a  western 
aspect,  and  a  light  mould  finely  sifted,  and  moderately  moistened, 
will  succeed  very  well.  A  hand-glass  to  cover  the  pipings  will 
be  indispensable.  The  dimensions  of  the  glass  having  been 
marked  on  the  spot,  take  the  pipings  one  by  one  out  of  the 
water,  and  in  this  wet  state  press  them,  with  a  steady  hand,  into 
the  earth,  about  half  an  inch  deep,  just  to  cover  the  joint,  and  no 
more.  Plant  them  about  half  an  inch  apart.  If  any  water  is 
given,  it  must  be  very  little,  with  a  very  fine  rose  water-pot,  or 
the  earth  will  be  unsettled  from  the  bottom  of  the  pipings. 
When  the  leaves  are  quite  dry,  place  the  hand-glass  over  them, 
forcing  the  edges  a  little  way  into  the  earth  to  keep  out  the  air. 


82  THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDEKIKG. 

They  must  afterwards  be  kept  regularly  moist,  with  soft  or  well- 
sunned  water,  but  not  made  too  wet,  and  the  leaves  must  be 
allowed  to  dry  before  replacing  the  glass,  or  they  will  rot.  If 
the  sun  is  very  strong,  water  the  outside  of  the  glass  early  in 
the  morning,  and  cover  it  with  matting  during  the  heat  of  the 
day,  leaving  only  a  glimmering  of  light.  The  glasses  should  not 
be  lifted  for  the  first  fortnight,  after  which  it  will  be  proper  to 
take  up  the  glasses  occasionally,  to  admit  air  and  light,  in  the 
morning  for  about  half  an  hour;  and  if  any  of  the  pipings  are 
mouldy,  throw  them  out.  Turn  the  glasses  upside  down  while 
off,  to  dry  them,  but  do  not  expose  the  pipings  to  the  strong 
glare  of  the  sun.  As  soon  as  they  begin  to  grow,  place  the 
glasses  more  lightly  over  them,  and  open  them  more  fre- 
quently, and  for  a  longer  time.  When  they  all  appear  well 
rooted,  the  glass  will  be  no  longer  necessary.  Any  that  may  be 
more  forward  than  the  rest,  may  be  removed  and  potted  out  first, 
leaving  the  others  the  protection  of  the  glass  till  they  are 
sufficiently  advanced.  When  they  have  all  struck  root,  they 
may  be  transplanted  into  a  bed  of  common  garden  mould — rather 
loose  and  sandy  is  better  than  a  heavy  soil.  Pinks  are  very 
hardy,  and  require  little  or  no  protection  during  winter.  Keep 
the  beds  free  from  weeds ;  and  if  the  roots  are  loosened  by  the 
frosts,  press  the  soil  firmly  round  them  in  the  spring.  When 
blooming,  manage  like  Carnation. 

Dahlias  are  at  present  much  esteemed  ;  they  are  tubers,  and 
received  their  name  from  Dahl,  a  Swedish  botanist.  They  are 
natives  of  Mexico,  growing  on  the  high  sandy  plains:  the  soil 
for  their  culture  should,  therefore,  be  rather  light.  It  is  impos- 
sible to  describe  the  general  appearance  of  the  Dahlia,  as  its 
varieties  are  almost  endless,  from  its  extensive  cultivation. 
There  are  said  to  be  upwards  of  a  thousand  named  flowers; 
judges  distinguish  them  by  three  criteria,  form,  colour,  and  size. 
In  the  first  place  the  flower,  on  a  fiont  view,  should  be  perfectly 
circular ;  the  eye  or  disk  of  the  full-blown  flower  should  be  hid 
by  the  central  petals,  arranging  themselves  into  a  fine  crown, 
and  the  side  view  should  present  a  perfect  hemisphere,  or  resem- 
ble the  upper  half  of  an  orange.  The  colour  when  self,  or  of  single 
dhade,  should  be  bright  and  distinct;  when  variegated  the  marking 
should  be  clear  and  regular,  whether  stripes,  shadings,  edgings,  or 
motlings,  without  clouding  or  running.  The  size  is  less  attended 
to  than  the  form,  as  the  best  formed  flower  will  be  more  highly 
estimated  than  the  largest.  Dahlias  also  should  show  a  disposi- 
tion to  bloom  freely,  and  have  shortish  flower-stalks,  on  which 
the  blossom  should  stand  boldly  and  well  exposed  to  view.  They 
are  propagated  either  by  seeds,  cuttings,  or  dividing  the  roots. 
The  former  method  is  resorted  to  only  by  Florists  and  others, 
who  wish  to  produce  new  sorts;  and  we  shall  no  farther  revert  to 


THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDENING.  83 

it  than  to  say,  the  method  is  similar  to  that  pursued  in  raising 
the  seeds  of  other  half-hardy  tuberous  roots.  The  most  simple 
method,  and  that  generally  resorted  to,  is  dividing-  the  roots  at 
the  time  of  their  re-planting  in  the  spring.  Those  who  possess 
the  advantages  of  a  hot-bed  and  frame,  place  the  old  roots  which 
have  been  carefully  preserved  from  damp  or  frost,  into  the  hot- 
bed about  the  middle  of  February,  covering  the  roots  but  not  the 
crown  (that  is  the  part  of  the  root  immediately  round  the  stalk,) 
with  some  light  soil  mixed  with  sand,  and  covering  them  with 
the  frame,  sprinkling  them  occasionally  with  warm  water;  if  the 
frame  steam  too  much,  air  must  be  occasionally  admitted. 
When  the  the  roots  have  made  shoots  of  two  or  three  inches 
high,  these  may  be  separated,  seeing  that  each  shoot  retains  a 
tuber,  or  at  least  part  of  the  crown ;  these  must  be  potted  in 
small  pots,  using  a  compost  of  one-third  sandy  loam,  or  common 
garden  mould,  one-third  leaf  mould,  and  one-third  white  sand  or 
road  scrapings.  These  cuttings  must  still  be  kept  under  the 
frame  till  they  are  re-established,  shitting  the  pots,  if  the  roots 
grow  too  large:  gradually  inure  them  to  the  open  air,  and  by  the 
middle  or  end  of  May  they  may  be  planted  in  the  open  ground. 
Those  who  have  not  a  hot-bed  may  plant  them  in  a  warm  border 
in  the  middle  of  April,  protecting  them  at  night,  should  any  frost 
occur.  They  should  be  planted  in  a  light  loose  soil,  the  crowns 
being  buried  about  an  inch  below  the  surface.  When  the  shoots 
are  about  three  inches  above  the  soil,  the  roots  are  to  be  taken 
up  and  separated,  as  those  we  have  just  described  in  the  hot-bed; 
only  the  pieces  may  be  at  once  planted  in  the  border  where  they 
are  designed  to  stand,  protecting  from  frost  should  any  occur. 
Propagating  by  cuttinsfs  is  the  best  though  not  the  safest  method. 
As  soon  as  the  shoots  have  attained  the  height  of  two  inches 
above  the  ground,  the  soil  should  be  carefully  removed  down  to 
the  crown  of  the  roots,  and  the  young  shoots  taken  off  with  a 
knife,  along  with  a  small  portion  of  the  crown  of  the  plant  when 
possible;  but  they  will  generally  grow  without.  They  should 
then  be  potted  as  before  described,  and  taken  to  the  window  of  a 
dwelling-room,  or  placed  in  the  frame ;  and  when  sufficiently 
established,  removed  to  the  open  border.  Under  all  these  pro- 
cesses the  young  plants  will  require  to  be  protected  from  the 
glare  of  the  sun,  and  to  be  watered  when  first  planted,  and  as 
often  as  requisite  afterwards. 

There  is  an  almost  endless  variety  of  colour  among  these 
plants;  and  their  height  also  varies  from  seven  or  eight  feet  to 
two  or  three :  care  must  therefore  be  taken  in  putting  them  out 
where  a  great  number  is  grown,  to  arrange  them  accordingly. 
When  they  have  attained  a  good  footing  in  the  earth,  they  should 
be  protected  from  the  effects  of  winds  by  firm  stakes:  some  em- 
ploy only  one  large  stake,  which  should  be  as  high  as  the  plant 


84  THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDENI.x'G. 

will  grow,  and  it  will  then  be  requisite  to  prune  off  all  the  side 
branches,  preserving  only  the  main  ?tem,  with  a  bushy  head  ;  by 
which  means  large  and  fine  flowers  are  to  be  expected:  others 
prefer  three  stakes,  placing"  them  in  an  angle,  one  on  the  south- 
east, and  another  on  the  north-west  side,  in  which  direction  the 
strongest  winds  occur.  The  stake  must  be  driven  deep  into  the 
ground,  and  the  branches  of  the  plant  supported  to  or  round  them 
by  pieces  of  bass  :  some  surround  the  plant  by  hoops  made  fast  to 
three  stakes,  and  this  method  looks  neat  and  prett\'.  Whatever 
plan  is  adopted,  one  thing  is  certain,  the  Dahlia'must  be  well 
supported,  or  it  will  be  torn  down  by  the  autumnal  winds,  just 
as  it  promises  to  reward  all  your  care  by  exhibiting  its  beautiful 
flowers.  Tiie  stakes  must  be  placed  in  early,  before  the  new 
tubers  are  formed,  which  would  otherwise  be  liable  to  damage, 
and  they  should  be  placed  as  near  the  main  stem  as  convenient. 
As  the  plants  grow,  the  redundant  shoots  should  be  pruned  away 
before  they  grow  any  size,  the  amount  of  pruning  being  regulated 
by  the  wish  of  the  person,  as  to  whether  he  requires  a  great 
number,  or  prefers  fine  and  large  flowers. 

Immediately  that  the  first  fi"ost  has  touched  the  leaves,  or  the 
flowers  have  ceased  to  be  good,  cut  down  the  stem  of  the  plant 
to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  ground,  cover  the  roots  carefully 
with  straw,  ashes,  pea-straw,  or  any  similar  thing,  and  let  them 
stand  till  near  the  end  of  November,  to  mature  their  tubers  and 
gain  their  strength.  Choose,  if  possible,  dry  weather  to  take  up 
the  roots,  stand  them  separately  in  a  sheltered  place,  and  dry 
them  gradually;  then  keep  them  carefully  from  frost,  damp,  or, 
heat:  the  two  first  would  cause  them  to  rot,  the  latter  to  shrivel 

The  following  are  some  of  the  most  esteemed  varieties. 
Those  marked  *  are  American  seedlings,  raised  by  Mr.  Schinitz 
of  Philadelphia,  one  of  the  most  successful  and  enthusiastic  cul- 
tivators of  this  beautiful  plant. 

Alexander — orange height  5  ft. 

America — fine  purple "  6 

Argo — bright  yellow "  6 

*  Beauty  of  Philadelphia — yellow  tipt  with  rose  "  5 
Beauty  of  England — white  edged  with  crimson  "  4 

Blandina — delicate  white "  5 

Bride — blush  tipped  with  rose "  4 

Cleopatra — fine  white "  4 

Coronation — crimson  shaded  with  purple. ...  "  5 

*  Colombus — rosy  crimson "  5 

Duke  of  Richmond — bronzy  pink "  5 

Duchess  of  Richmond — orange  and  pink. ...  '*  5 

Elizabeth — white  with  purple  edges •'  4 


THE    MANUAL    OP    GARDENING,  85 

Kmppror  of  China — rich  purple height  6  ft. 

Fishpfton  Champion — crimson,  fine "  6 

Gem — 'vhite  edged  vvilh  crimson "  5 

Grace  Darling — rosy  salmon "  5 

Lady  Glentworth — claret "  4 

Maria— dark  rose,  fine  form "  5 

*  I\Iary  Ann — white,  large  perfect  flower "  5 

JMarshal  Sonlt — red  and  lilac "  4 

Madam  de  Schauenfield — brigfht  vermilion. .  .  "  5 

Miss  Percival — pure   white "  5 

Mrs.  Rii?hton — white  edged  with  lilac "  6 

*  Philadelphia — white  spotted  with  purple. .. .  "  5 
Princess  Royal — pale  amber  edged  with  pink  "  4 

President  ot  the  West — dark  crimson "  5 

Rainbow — yellow  edged  with  purple "  5 

Scarlet  Defiance — fine  bright  scarlet "  5 

Sufi\»lk  Hero — dark  maroon "  5 

*  T.  C.  Percival — dark  crimson,  fine  flower. . .  "  4 
Unique — yellow  edged  with  red "  4 

*  Washington  Irving — light  purple "  5 

*  Yellow  Victory — brimstone  yellow "  4 

York  and  Lancaster — rose  pink "  5 

Digitalis,  Foxglove. — The  common  is  an  English  plant,  grow- 
ing nearly  three  teet  high,  bearing  a  variegated  peach-coloured 
blossom  from  June  to  September;  another  kind  blossoms  white. 
The  yellow,  Lutea,  is  a  native  of  Italy,  propagated  by  seed, 
which  sows  itself,  and  blows  in  June  and  July:  the  large  yellow 
blossoms  at  the  same  time,  and  has  a  hue  of  purple  in  the  blos- 
soms. It  will  attain  to  the  height  of  three  feet.  Ail  these  re- 
(jiiire  the  same  treatment  as  the  Campanula,  which  they  resem- 
ble in  their  habits. 

Fritellaria  imperialis,  or  Crown  Imperial. — A  large  bul- 
bous root  of  a  mo?t  nauseous  smell.  It  is  a  native  of  Persia, 
and  rises  to  the  height  of  nearly  three  feet,  bearing  a  bunch  of 
yellowi-h  red  flowers,  turning  downwards,  and  part  of  the  foliage 
rising  above  them.  One  variety  is  a  pure  light  yellow  ;  it  is  of 
a  very  graceful  shape,  and  blossoms  early  in  May,  or  sometimes 
in  April :  it  is  propagated  by  parting  the  oft-sets  when  the  leaves 
have  faded  off  in  July.  This  may  be  done  once  in  three  years, 
and  the  bulb  be  put  in  again  in  August,  as  it  must  not  be  kept 
out  too  long,  it  not  being  protected  by  a  skin  like  the  Tulip,  tfcc. 
The  bulb  must  be  planted  about  the  depth  of  four  inches  in  a 
sandy  loamy  soil,  or  at  least  a  garden  mould  which  is  not  too  stiff 
or  too  rich,  to  remedy  which  a  little  sand  may  be  mixed  wiih  the 
mould. 

Ferraria  uxdulata — A  bulbous  rofit^  hearing  :^  singular  par- 

8  LIBRARY.     " 

Dioision  of  Horticulture, 

¥.  C.  Dep't  of  ACTicultUPB. 


86  THE   MANUAL    OP   GARDENING. 

ty-coloured  flower,  with  waved  edges,  somewhat  resembling  the 
Ticker  Lily;  the  flowers  expand  in  the  morning  and  close  in  the 
afternoon.  It  is  propagated  by  off'-sets,  separated  when  the  plant 
is  withered,  and  rc-planted  immediately. 

Fraxinella,  or  White  Ditany — is  a  native  of  the  south  of 
France.  It  grows  about  two  feet  high,  producing  in  June  or  July 
a  white  or  purple  flower.  It  likes  a  rich  soil,  but  does  not  flower 
well  till  the  fifth  year  after  its  sowing;  after  which  its  flowers 
are  abundant  and  handsome,  with  a  most  delightful  perfume.  The 
whole  plant  is  very  elegant,  its  flowers  abundant,  and  its  leaves 
rich  in  colour  and  odour.  It  is  an  old  favourite  border  flower. 
^Vhen  propagated  by  seed  it  must  be  sown  in  September,  either 
in  the  open  ground,  or  in  pans  or  boxes,  in  a  rich,  light,  and  well- 
pulverized  soil,  and  covered  to  the  depth  of  an  inch.  When  the 
young  plants  come  up  they  must  be  covered  with  long  dung,  or 
dry  litter,  during  inclement  weather,  uncovering  them  during  the 
day,  when  the  weather  is  favourable.  When  they  are  uncovered 
in  the  spring,  keep  them  clear  of  weeds,  and  water  them  as  re- 
quired ;  by  the  end  of  March  let  them  be  removed  to  where  they 
are  intend*  d  to  flower,  keeping  the  roots  well  earthed  up  and 
watered  when  needful.  They  may  be  propagated  by  dividing  the 
roots  when  strong  enough,  but  it  must  be  done  carefully.  When 
the  plant  dies  down  in  winter,  it  must  be  covered  with  leaves, 
dry  litter,  or  straw,  for  protection. 

FuMARiA,  Fumalory. — There  are  two  kinds  of  plant  bearing" 
this  name;  the  bulbous,  growing  five  or  six  inches  high,  produc- 
insT  a  purplish  flower  in  the  spring,  which  is  propagated  either  by 
separating  the  roots  in  autumn,  or  by  sowing  the  seed  in  a  warm 
situation  ;  and  the  yellow  idigenous,  from  the  mountainous  parts 
of  England,  which  produces  its  yellow  flowers  both  in  April  and 
November,  and  is  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots. 

Galanthus,  Snow  Drop. — A  pretty  native  bulbous  plant, 
blowing  in  the  earliest  spring :  it  is  a  delicate  while,  and  often  is 
seen  peeping  above  the  snow. 

Gladiolus,  or  Corn  Flag. — It  is  a  bulbous  root,  propagated 
by  off-sets.  It  may  be  left  in  the  ground  for  two  or  three  years, 
when  it  should  be  taken  up  and  replanted.  It  is  a  native  of  the 
south  of  France,  growing  to  the  height  of  two  feet.  It  flowers 
in  June  and  July,  bearing  a  red  flower  inclining  to  purple.  There 
is  a  larger,  called  the  superb,  the  flowers  of  which  are  of  a  bright 
scarlet,  with  large  white  spots  on  its  lower  petals;  it  will  attain 
to  three  feet  in  height,  and  flowers  in  July  and  August.  There 
is  another  handsome  variety,  called  ihe  psittacina  which  is  very 
handsome,  and  an  abundant  flowerer. — It  is  planted  on  the  open 
border  in  April  or  May,  and  removed  to  a  dry  warm  place  in 
October. 

Hesperis,  the  Rocket. — A  pretty  fragrant  plant,  nearly  two 

,snu)!u3iJioH  Ic  notsiotG 


THE   MANUAL    OP   GARDENING.  87 

feet  high.    It  blooms  all  the  summer,  either  red,  purple,  or  white, 
and  is  propagated  by  partinn-  the  roots  in  autumn. 

Hedysarum,  or  French  Honeysuckle. — A  native  of  Spain  and 
the  south  (if  France,  is  a  biennial,  rising  about  two  feet  high, 
bearing  a  very  pretty  red  flower  in  July  and  August.  It  is  pro- 
pagated by  sowing  the  seeds  in  the  spring,  and  transplanting 
them  where  they  are  to  grow  in  the  autumn.  They  blossom  the 
second  year. 

Hyacinth, — is  a  native  of  the  East.  The  varieties  amount 
to  some  thousands;  and  fine  ones  have  been  sold  as  high  as  two 
or  three  hundred  guineas  for  a  single  bulb.  It  is  a  florist's  flower, 
one  of  our  earliest  flowering  bulbs,  and  makes  a  very  pretty  ap- 
pearance in  the  parlour  window,  when  blown,  in  flower-glasses: 
for  the  method  of  doing  this,  see  bulbs  in  glasses,  p.  19.  New  varie- 
ties are  raised  from  seed.  The  best  time  of  sowing  is  in  the  autumn, 
but  not  later  than  the  first  week  in  October  :  it  may  be  sown  in 
the  open  border  if  the  soil  is  rich,  light,  and  dry ;  but  i-t  is  better 
to  sow  in  pans  or  boxes,  which  can  be  conveniently  shifted  ac- 
cording to  circumstances.  The  vessels  in  which  they  are  sown 
must  have  a  good  drainage  of  broken  potsherds  at  the  bottom, 
and  be  filled  rather  above  the  brim  with  rich  light  soil,  laid  very 
smoothly.  The  seeds  must  be  scattered  thinly  and  evenly,  and 
covered  lightly  not  more  than  half  an  inch  at  most.  The  boxes 
or  pans  must  be  plunged  up  to  the  brims  in  a  dry  spot  of  ground, 
and  there  remain  till  the  severe  weather  begins,  when  they 
must  be  removed  under  shelter,  or  be  protected  with  dry  litter, 
exposing  them  to  air  and  light  whenever  the  weather  is  mild, 
and  not  too  wet.  When  the  seed-leaves  appear  above  ground,  in 
the  spring,  they  are  very  small:  keep  them  free  from  weeds;  and 
if  any  green  moss  appear  on  the  surface  of  the  earth,  sift  a  little 
fine  mould  or  sand  over  it.  When  the  leaves  die  off  about  mid- 
summer, an  additional  covering  of  this  kind  must  be  given  to  the 
whole.  Precisely  the  same  management  must  be  pursued  during 
the  second  year,  till  the  leaves  die  down,  when  the  young  bulbs 
may  be  taken  up;  but  must  be  re-planted  by  the  end  of  August, 
or  they  may  dry  and  shrivel.  They  should  be  re-set  in  drills  about 
three  or  four  inches  apaft,  and  two  inches  deep,  covered  with  a 
layer  of  sand  of  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Some  of  the 
strongest  bulbs  will  probably  flower  the  third  year;  but  the  whole 
will  not  flower  before  the  fifth  year.  The  bulbs  which  are  four 
or  five  years  old  from  their  first  flowerino",  are  in  their  greatest 
perfection:  after  this  they  gradually  decline.  When  a  good 
bulb  has  been  wounded,  the  part  should  be  pared  with  a  sharp 
knife,  and  then  left  some  days  to  dry  before  planting,  or  the  whole 
root  may  canker  and  die. 

Hyacinths  should  be  planted  in  an  open  and  airy  situation,  but 


88  THE   MANDAL    OF    GARDENING. 

must  at  the  same  time  be  sheltered  from  the  north  and  east  winds. 
The  spot  should  be  warm  and  dry,  and  the  bed  be  about  four  feet 
wide.  In  preparinfj  this  bed  all  the  earth  should  be  first  dugout 
to  the  depth  of  two  feet,  then  the  bottom  should  be  du?  over,  and 
the  earth  rendered  loose  that  it  may  have  a  ready  drainage,  as 
damp  is  fatal  to  the  Hyacinth.  The  space  left  is  to  be  filled  with 
light  sandy  soil,  mixed  with  rich  loamy  turf,  well  rotted,  or 
leaf-mould.  The  Hyacinth  growers  near  Haerlem  are  said  to 
employ  leaf  mould,  fine  sand,  and  well-rotted  cow-dung;  any  sand 
not  contaminated  with  iron  will  do;  when  cow-dunsr  is  used,  it  is 
important  that  it  be  pure,  without  any  mixture  of  horse-dung  or 
litter,  which  injure  the  bulb.  The  compost  must  be  laid  on  the 
bed  to  the  depth  of  three  feet;  but  it  must  not  be  trodden  hard 
down.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted  about  the  beginning  of  No- 
vember, and  the  bed  raised  ten  inches  above  the  path  on  the 
north  side,  and  four  inches  on  the  south  side,  forming  a  regular 
slope  towards  the  sun.  Over  the  whole,  about  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness of  dry  sandy  earth  should  be  spread,  with  the  position  each 
bulb  is  to  occupy  marked  out.  They  should  be  plantpd  in  rows, 
the  line  being  used.  The  bulbs  should  be  pressed  in,  not  dibbled, 
they  should  then  be  covered,  from  three  to  four  inches  deep,  ac- 
cording to  the  size  of  the  bulb.  By  the  beginning  of  April  the 
earlier  sorts  will  show  flower,  and  the  finer,  particularly  the  reds 
and  blues,  will  retain  their  colour  and  last  much  longer  if  shaded, 
which  may  be  done  by  an  awning;  one  that  is  moveable  is  best, 
as  they  should  only  be  covered  during  the  middle  of  the  day,  and 
during  heavy  rain  or  high  winds.  As  the  stems  advance  they 
will  require  support  with  sticks  or  wires,  painted  green,  to  which 
the  stems  must  be  tied  from  time  to  time,  using  green  worsted, 
and  being  careful  not  to  injure  the  plant.  Except  in  very  dry 
seasons,  they  require  no  water. 

Those  which  are  not  to  bear  seed  should  be  taken  up  when 
their  leaves  fade,  on  a  dry  day  :  care  must  be  had  not  to  damage 
the  off-sets.  They  may  lay  close  to  each  other  on  the  bed,. cov- 
ered with  earth  to  an  inch  thick  for  about  a  fortnight,  to  dry; 
and  then  they  may  be  cleaned  from  dirt,  dried  leaves,  and  off-sets, 
and  be  put  by  in  a  dry  airy  place,  to  remain  till  autumn.  It  is 
sometimes  advised  to  let  the  off-sets  remain  on  the  parent  plant 
till  the  time  of  re-planting  the  offsets,  which  must  be  a  month 
earlier  than  the  old  bulbs.  This  is  probably  the  safest  method, 
as  off-sets  sometimes  are  apt  to  shrivel  if  kept  out  of  the  earth. 
OfF-sets  are  to  be  treated  exactly  like  seedlings  of  the  second 
year,  and  should  be  planted  in  rows  six  inches  apart,  and  four 
inches  from  bulb  to  bulb:  and  covered  with  about  two  inches  of 
light  soil.  Small  off-sets  may  remain  out  more  than  one  year 
after  planting,  occasionally  stirring  the  surface,  and  keeping  clear 
of  weeds.     Off-sets  seldom  produce  good  or  strong  bloom  before 


THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDENING.  89 

the  third  or  fourth  year:  they  must,  therefore,  not  be  mixed  with 
full-grown  bulb.5  in  their  beds. 

Iris. — There  are  many  varieties  of  the  Iris,  all  very  pretty, 
and  generally  hardy.  The  xiphioides  is  coming  much  into  cul- 
tivation as  a  florist's  flower.  It  will  grow  in  almost  any  soil,  and 
the  roots  should  remain  two  years  in  the  ground,  when  it  will 
throw  off  off-sets.  The  Persian  Iris  is  a  little  bulbous  plant,  of 
great  delicacy,  about  seven  or  eight  inches  high,  producing  a 
very  sweet-scented  and  regularly-formed  flower  in  March  and 
April.  It  is  generally  raised  in  pots,  into  which  it  should  be  put 
about  October,  the  pots  being  filled  with  a  mixture  of  sand  and 
fine  rich  mould.  There  are  several  other  sorts,  all  hardy,  and 
propagated  by  dividing  the  roots  in  autumn,  but  not  too  frequently. 
The  lusitanica  is  common  in  our  gardens,  flowering  abundantly 
in  June,  having  varieties  of  blue  and  of  white  flowers.  This  is 
the  Fleur  de  lis  of  the  French  arms.  /.  chalcedonica  is  very 
curiously  mottled,  black  and  white.  They  all  like  good  garden 
soil,  and  increase  fast. 

L\THYRUs  LATiFOLius,  the  everlasHug  Pea, — is  a  perennial 
plant,  originally  from  Provence.  It  grows  four  or  five  feet  high, 
and  very  luxuriant,  requires  support.  It  produces  abundance  of 
pinkish  blossoms  in  July  and  August. 

LiLiuM,  the  Lily. — Of  this  well-known  bulb,  there  are  many 
kinds  which  admit  of  out-door  culture;  we  will  only  enumerate 
a  few:  the  Martagon,  or  Turks'  Cap;  Pennsylvanicum,  Phila- 
delphiciim,  double  and  single  white,  tigrinum  and  hulbiferum. 
They  are  easily  managed,  thrive  best  in  light  rich  loam,  and  only 
require  to  be  removed,  from  time  to  time,  when  the  clusters  of 
roots  become  too  large  to  flower  freely. 

Lychnis. — The  chalcedonica,  JloscucuU  and  viscaria  are  pretty 
herbaceous  plants,  and  well  calculated  to  adorn  the  open  border. 
They  do  not  rise  over  twelve  or  eighteen  inches  in  height,  and 
make  a  pretty  show  early  in  the  season;  very  little  care  is  re- 
quired in  their  culture.  To  increase  them,  divide  the  clumps, 
which  will  induce  free  growth  and  abundant  bloom. 

MiRABiLis,  Marvel  of  Peru. — A  tuberous-rooted  plant,  which, 
when  grown  in  a  soil  it  likes,  will  attain  to  three  or  four  feet 
high.  It  produces  a  pretty  single  flower  of  red,  yellow,  purplish- 
white,  and  frequently  striped  with  red  and  yellow,  &c.  It  is 
propagated  by  seed,  or  by  dividing  the  root,  like  the  Dahlia;  its 
management  and  habits  are  similar  to  those  of  the  Dahlia,  which 
see  for  its  cultivation.  The  roots  are  not  so  difficult  to  keep  as 
those  of  the  Dahlia,  and  may  be  laid  by,  in  any  dry  place,  safely  till 
the  early  spring,  when  they  may  be  placed  in  pots  till  frost  is  over. 

Narcissus. — There  are  several  kinds  of  this  flower,  all  bul- 


50  THE   MANUAL    OF   QARDEinNG. 

bous  and  hardy :  the  common  Daffodil  is  one,  which  see.  The 
papor  white  is  admired  for  its  delicately  white  flowers,  and  grows 
to  a  foot  and  a  half  high.  The  Jonquil  is  another  variety,  and  is 
very  sweet  scented ;  it  sends  up  an  elegant  and  slender  stalk,  ten 
or  twelve  inches  high,  bearing  a  bunch  of  bright  yellow  flowers. 
The  Polyanthus  Narcissus,  has  three  varieties:  one  pure  white, 
one  white  with  a  yellow  cup  in  the  middle,  and  another  all  yel- 
low, producing  abundance  of  flowers:  they  are  all  cultivated  in 
a  similar  manner  to  other  hardy  bulbs,  but  should  be  taken  up 
once  in  two  or  three  years  for  dividing  the  off-sets  from  the  roots, 
and  be  re-planted  immediately. 

Onothera,  Evening  Primrose. — Avery  pretty  biennial,  which 
in  the  evening  blows  a  fine  yellow  flower  from  July  to  Septem- 
ber. It  must  be  sown  in  the  spring,  where  it  is  to  blossom  the 
following  year.  Any  soil  will  do;  but  it  prefers  good  garden 
mould. 

PiEONiA. — The  Pioney,  as  it  is  called,  has  been  much  extended 
in  variety  within  a  few  years,  and  European  collections  contain 
many  which  have  not  yet  reached  this  country.  The  tree  or 
hard-wooded  variety,  P.  arborea,  or  Moutan,  its  Chinese  name, 
is  a  beautiful  plant,  and  in  a  favourable  situation  in  dry  soil,  is 
magnificent.  No  plant  can  be  a  more  gorgeous  ornament  of  the 
garden,  than  a  well-grown  specimen  of  this  kind,  abounding  as 
it  does  in  leaves,  striking  from  their  branched  character  and  nu- 
merous segment?,  and  its  very  magnificent  flowers  of  extraordi- 
nary size.  A  specim.en  in  England,  planted  soon  after  its  intro- 
duction from  China,  (they  being  then  worth  ten  guineas  each ; 
around  Philadelphia,  tliey  may  now  be  had  for  a  dollar,)  has  be- 
come a  bush  14  feet  in  diameter,  and  has  in  some  seasons  borne 
one  thousand  flowers.  It  thrives  best  in  moderately  dry  rich 
loam,  is  perfectly  hardy,  but  being  an  early  bloomer,  has  the 
flowers  sometimes  discoloured  by  frost.  It  will  therefore  be  well 
to  have  a  movable  shelter  at  hand,  to  apply  if  necessary,  when 
the  buds  are  expanding.  P.  whitleyii,  fragrans,  and  humeii  are 
herbaceous  varieties  of  merit ;  the  first  is  of  a  rich  creamy  white, 
the  petals  edged  with  blush,  the  fragrans  is  rose-coloured,  and 
yields  a  delightful  perfume.  They  flower  freely,  and  withstand 
the  winter  in  any  soil.  There  are  others  which  may  be  had 
from  most  florists;  as  the  corullina,  cherry-red ;  tcnuifoUa,  Jine- 
teaved ;  albaflora  simplex,  single-white;  kumilis,  dwarf-rose; 
<^c.,  which  are  quite  desirable. 

Primula,  Polyanthus  or  Primrose. — This  is  a  beautiful  flow- 
er, either  for  the  border,  or  to  be  kept  in  a  pot ;  they  are  all 
dv.'arf  Alpine  plants  valuable  in  horticulture.  The  varieties  are 
very  numerous,  varying  in  price,  in  England,  from  a  pound  to  a 
shilling.     It  is  managed  much  in  the  same  way  as  the  Auricula. 


THE    MANUAL     OF    GARDENINQ.  91* 

The  soil  best  adapted  for  this  and  the  primrose,  is  a  loamy  and 
moist  but  not  too  rich  soil.  It  prefers  siiadn,  and  will  grow  in  a 
stiff  clay.  When  raised  by  seed,  the  same  process  will  be 
necessary  as  for  the  Auricula.  It  is  most  commonly  propagated 
by  slips  or  off-sets.  The  plants  are  very  apt  to  dejjenera'te  or 
die,  if  left  too  long  in  the  same  situation.  Therefore  replant 
them  as  directed  for  the  Auricula,  immediately  after  they  have 
done  flowering.  The  polyanthus  will,  however,  thrive  much 
better  when  planted  in  a  shady  border,  than  in  a  pot.  When 
the  slips  are  separated  from  the  old  roots,  an  ivory  paper  knife, 
or  a  thin  piece  of  wood,  is  a  better  tool  than  a  coinmon  knife, 
which  is  apt  to  destroy  the  root.  Each  root  should  be  shaken 
free  from  all  adhesive  mould,  the  off-sets  taken  off,  and  the  roots 
divided  and  replanted  at  five  or  six  inches  distance,  in  a  fresh 
dug  border,  or  be  put  into  pots,  and  well  watered,  being  set  in  a 
shady  place.  They  may  be  protected  in  the  same  manner  as 
Auriculas  during  severe  frosts.  The  Primrose  is  nearly  allied 
to  the  Polyanthus;  and  there  are  several  varieties  of  double 
Primroses,  that  may  be  grown  either  in  the  open  border,  or  in 
pots.  These  kinds  are  to  be  cultivated  like  the  Auricula;  but 
as  the  double  white  does  not  produce  many  off-sets,  it  is  best  to 
slip  them  with  a  knife  into  as  many  parts  as  there  are  crowns  or 
hearts,  with  a  portion  of  fibrous  root,  when  they  have  flowered, 
watering  plentifully.- 

Penstemon,  p.  Murrayanus^  a  hardy  plant,  introduced  into 
this  country  (England)  from  Texas.  It  may  be  raised  from  seeds 
forwarded  on  heat,  and  transplanted  into  a  rich  soil.  It  grows 
four  or  five  feet  high,  and  in  the  summer  and  autumn  produces 
large  bunches  of  rich  glossy  scarlet  blossoms. 

The  narrow-leaved  (P.  Augustifolia)  is  a  hardy  perennial, 
growing  about  two  feet  high.  The  flower  somewhat  resemble* 
the  Foxglove,  but  is  more  beautiful.  It  is  propagated  by  dividing 
the  roots  in  autumn, 

PoTEKTiLLA,  or  C'lnquefoU. — Many  varieties  of  this  plant  have 
been  introduced  into  our  gardens  of  late  years,  such  as  Potentilla 
Napolensis,  and  P.  Russdliana ;  Vv'hich,  with  others  of  the  same 
sort,  are  very  much  admired  as  border  flowers,  as  they  continue 
Jong  in  bloom.  They  are  frequently  grown  in  pots,  and  in  this 
case  it  is  indispensable  to  drain  well,  by  placing  an  inch  or  two 
of  broken  potsherds  in  the  pots,  and  using  turfy  loam  and  peat, 
well  chopped  together.  The  best  time  for  potting  is  early  in  the 
spring,  or  immediatoly  after  the  flowering  season.  When 
planted  in  a  border  the  soil  must  be  li^ht,  and  well  drained,  as 
stagnant  moisture  prevents  the  plant  frotn  thriving.  The  former 
kinds  v.'e  have  mentioned  ;  and  P.  atrosanguinea  will  require  to 
have  their  roots  slightly  protected  through  the  winter.     They 


92  THE   MANUAL    OP    GARDENING. 

are  propa^jated  by  dividing  the  roots  when  done  flowering',  or  in 
the  bejiirininiT  of  April,  or  by  sowing-  th^  scpd  as  soon  as  ripe, 
ch'tuiiio-  it  iVoiii  ttie  pulp  of  the  fruit.  When  the  plants  are  large 
enough,  put  them,  or  place  them  in  open  ground. 

Ranunculus,  or  Crow  Foot,  is  a  tuberous-rooted  plant,  like 
the  Anemone  :  it  is  sufficiently  hardy  to  bear  the  open  air  in  our 
climate.  There  is  a  great  variety  of  colours  among  Ranuncu- 
luses, and  they  may  be  raised  from  seed  which  must  be  treated 
like  that  of  the  Anemone,  or  more  readily  by  dividing  the  roots. 
The  soil  best  suited  for  them  is  a  rich  loam  with  a  slight  mixture 
of  weli-rotted  dung.  A  narrow  bed  should  be  formed,  across  or 
along  which  lines  should  be  drawn  to  mark  the  situation  where 
the  tuber  is  to  be  placed  :  this  should  be  at  about  six  inches  apart 
each  way  ;  the  tubers  are  to  be  pressed  down  into  the  soil  on 
which  a  little  sand  is  laid,  and  not  to  bo  placed  in  vvilh  a  dibble 
or  in  a  drill :  when  they  are  placed,  cover  the  wliole  with  about 
two  inches  of  light  soil.  The  most  common  time  for  planting 
the  Ranunculus  is  October;  but  when  a  succession  of  flowers  is 
desired,  some  may  be  planted  every  fortnight,  from  October  till 
February.  Those  designed  to  bloom  late  will  require  good 
watering.  If  some  tubers  are  placed  under  a  frame  in  Septem- 
ber, they  will  bloom  in  January  or  February,  particularly  if 
tubers  are  selected  which  have  been  kept  out  of  the  ground  at 
the  previous  planting,  as  these  will  grow  the  most  quickly. 
Those  planted  in  autunm,  will  require  occasional  shelter  during 
severe  frosts,  by  placing  a  little  litter  or  a  mat  supported  by 
hoops;  but  all  covering  must  be  removed  both  by  night  and  day 
in  open  wecther.  Those  which  were  planted  late,  and  did  not 
appear  above  ground  till  the  severe  frosts  are  over,  will  require 
no  protection  ;  they  must  be  moderately  watered  in  dry  weather, 
particularly  when  they  are  going  to  blow;  if  the  bed  is  exposed 
to  the  full  blaze  of  the  noon-day  sun,  it  will  be  requisite  to  shade 
it  when  the  flowers  are  in  bloom,  by  hoops  and  matting  or  an 
awning.  The  Ranunculus  being  a  favourite  florist  flower,  it  has 
been  crossed  and  varied  in  every  possible  way,  till  there  are 
upwards  of  eight  hundred  named  varieties,  of  every  colour,  from 
pure  white  to  glossy  black,  and  of  every  intermixture  that  can 
be  thought  of. 

When  they  are  out  of  flower  and  the  leaves  die  down,  the 
tubers  must  be  taken  up,  picked  clean,  and  carefully  dried, 
when  they  must  be  put  away  in  drawers  or  boxes,  kept  out 
of  the  reach  of  damp,  but  not  (>xcluded  from  air,  and  by  no 
means  pack  them  thickly  over  one  another.  For  further  par- 
ticulars in  the  culture  and  management  of  the  Ranunculus,  see 
Anemone. 

TussiLAGO,  The  Sweet  Scented  Coitus  Foot,  is  a  native  of  the 


THE    MANUAL    OP    GARDENING.  93 

north  of  Italy,  and  was  introduced  into  England  in  1806. — 
It  flowers  in  January  and  the  early  sprinor  months;  and  though 
its  pale  lilac  flowers  have  little  beauty,  its  fragrance,  resembling 
that  of  the  Heliotrope,  renders  it  a  deserved  favourite.  It  is 
easily  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots  and  planting  them  in  a 
free  loamy  earth,  though  it  will  grow  in  any  soil.  As  it  sendq 
out  long  under-ground  runners,  care  must  be  takl'n  to  prevent 
its  smothering  other  border  flowers.  It  is  often  grown  in  pots, 
and  it  will  be  necessary  frequently  to  re-pot  the  plant,  takin« 
care  not  to  disturb  the  root,  but  breaking  oft' all  the  runners  which 
shoot  along  the  sides  of  the  pot.  Severe  frost,  though  not  inju- 
rious to  the  plant  in  the  ground,  will  injure  it  in  pots,  unless  ita 
roots  are  protected. 

TuLiPA,  or  Tulip. — This  is  the  most  choice  of  the  florists' 
flowers,  and  its  management  as  such  is  too  expensive  to  fall 
within  the  limits  of  the  means  possessed  by  the  proprietors 
of  private  gardens; — the  price  of  a  prime  bed  of  Tulips  amount- 
ing to  from  d£!500  to  £1000.  There  are  endless  varieties  of 
Tulip?,  but  they  are  all  propagated  in  the  same  way,  either  by 
seeds,  practised  only  by  florists,  or  by  ofF-sets  managed  as  we 
have  already  directed  for  the  Hyacinth.  They  make  a  very 
pretty  show  in  clumps  in  the  border;  but  those  who  wish  for  a 
Tulip  show,  prepare  a  bod  either  long  or  square,  raised  a  little 
in  the  centre,  and  rather  higher  than  the  rest  of  the  garden. 
The  bulbs  are  to  be  put  seven  inches  apart  each  way,  and  the 
bed  should  have  an  awning  to  protect  the  Tulips  from  heavy 
rains,  or  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun.  The  beds  are  prepared  in 
the  same  way  as  those  for  Hyacinths,  only  without  sloping  to  the 
south. 

It  is  not,  however,  necessary  for  the  enjoyment  of  this  flower, 
to  incur  the  expense  indicated;  very  pretty  varieties  may  be 
procured  at  $1  to  .^2  per  dozen  bulbs,  assorted;  and  a  few  thus 
purchased  and  carefully  cultivated,  will  in  a  few  years  produce 
an  ample  stock  for  personal  gratification,  and  presents  to  friends; 
the  latter  no  inconsiderable  source  of  pleasure  derivable  from  the 
culture  of  flowers. 

Veronica  Cham^drys,  and  the  Saxatilis,  may  be  raised  from 
seeds  or  cuttings,  which  require  little  care  to  make  them  root. 
They  send  up  spikes  of  from  ten  to  twenty  bright  blue  flowers, 
and  grow  nearly  a  foot  in  height;  they  flower  from  May  till  the 
end  of  July,  when  planted  in  a  shady  situation;  but  a  hot  sun 
injures  the  beauty  of  the  flowers.  In  taking  up  the  plants  they 
should  have  good  balU",  and  be  planted  in  a  rich  free  soil  com- 
posed of  loam  and  leaf-mould. 

Viola  tricolor,  Heartsease  or  Pansies. — Within  the  last  few 
years  this  simple,  but  strikingly  beautiful  flower,  has  come  into 


94  THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDENING. 

high  estimation  as  a  florists'  flower.     There  are  now  several 
hundred  named  varieties.     The  old  and  common  kinds  are  peren- 
nial, but  many  of  the  new  and  expensive  sorts  are  strictly  annual. 
They  require  great  care  in  their  cultivation,  to  prevent  their 
degenerating  or  sporting  their  colours.     Like  other  plants  which 
shoot  out  runners,  they  very  quickly  deteriorate  the  soil  in  which 
they  grow,  and  require  to  be  frequently  transplanted,  not  taking 
up  balls  of  earth  with  the  roots,  but  washing  all  the  earth  away 
cleansing  the  roots  carefully  of  the  excrementitious  slime  which 
adheres  to  them.     It  likes  a  shaded  situation  ;  not  one,  however, 
on  which  the  sun  never  shines,  but  enjoying  only  the  morning  or 
evening  rays,  while  it  is  protected  from  its  mid-day  splendour. 
It  is  propagated  by  seeds,  by  layers,  or  by  dividing  the  roots. 
The  seeds  are  contained  in  a  capsule  or  pod,  which  must  be 
carefully  watched,   or   it   will  scatter  its   seed   before  you  are 
aware.     When  the  plant  is  to  be  propagated  by  seed,  this  must 
be  sown  between  April  and  September,  soon  after  it  is  ripe,  in  a 
rich  light  loamy  soil,  in  a  shaded  situation,  but  not  under  trees. 
The  seeds  should  be  sown  evenly,  and  as  thinly  as  possible,  in 
pans  or  boxes  placed  in  a  gentle  heat  till  the  seeds  germinate. 
If  heat  cannot  be  applied,  the  seeds  should  not  be  sown  late  in  the 
season,  or  the  seedlings  will  not  acquire  size  enough  for  trans- 
planting.    They  must  be  kept  under  some  kind    of  shelter  at 
night,  and  in  frosty  weather,  or  they  will  be   cut  off.     Those 
sown  in  the  spring  will  be  in  danger  from  drought  unless  care- 
fully watered.     They  must  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  pre- 
served from  the  depredations  of  worms,  snails,  and  slugs.    When 
the  seedlings  are  about  an  inch  high  they  may  be  planted  out, 
about  six  inches  apart,  in  shady  weather;  they  may  afterwards 
be  thinned  to  half  these  distances,  which  will  be  sufficient  space 
till  they  show  flower.     By  this  method,  new  and  very  beautiful 
varieties  are  produced,  when  the  seed  has  been  taken  from  first- 
rate  plants.     Slipping,  or  dividing  the  roots,  may  be  done  at  any 
time;  and  should  be  resorted  to  when  the  plants  straggle  up,  or 
the  colours  run,  or  the  flowers  become  small ;  never  suffering  the 
plants  to  get  more  than  three  inches  high.     Take  up  the  roots 
and  divide  all  tiie  slips  from  them  which  possess   root  fibres; 
these  must  be  washed  clean,  and  planted  out  in  a  shady  border, 
and  be  abundantly  watered.     It  is  best  to  do  this  in  the  spring  or 
summer  months,  to  allow  the  slips  to  form  strong  bushy  plants. 
Any  that  appear  sickly  or  drooping  will  be  assisted  by  having  a 
hand-glass  turned  over  them.     There  are  some  sorts,  such  as 
Sylvia  and  the  Hybrids,  from  the  Windsor  park,  which  cannot 
easily  be   slipped,  and  are   only  propagated  with    certainty  by 
layers,  they  being  annuals,  though  the  perennial  varieties  suc- 
ceed best  by  cuttings  or  slips.     Layering  is  best  performed  from 
the  last  week  in  May  till  the  middle  of  June;  and  again,  and, 


THE   MANUAL   OF  GARDENING.  95 

perhaps,  most  successfully,  in  September.  Layering  Heartsease 
is  best  performed  when  the  earth  is  moist  enousrh  to  have  so:ne 
adhesiveness,  but  is  not  wet  enough  to  soil  the  leaves.  The  earth 
should  be  removed  all  round  the  plant,  whon  the  shoots  should 
be  laid  down  in  the  hollow,  and  covered  with  rich  compost.  If 
the  annual  sorts  are  covered  with  a  small  hand-glass,  it  will 
sometimes  make  them  throw  out  roots  readily  ;  but  the  perennial 
sorts  do  not  require  this.  Cuttings  are  best  struck  in  the  middle 
of  autumn,  if  the  weather  be  moist,  which  it  must  be  if  this  ope- 
ration be  performed  with  success.  The  shoots  chosen  for  cut- 
tings must  be  healthy  and  young;  for  those  which  are  woody  or 
hollow  will  either  not  strike,  or  produce  only  unhealthy  plants. 
The  cuttings  must  not  have  more  than  four  joints,  and  be  cut 
off  close  to  a  joint,  as  all  that  is  left  below  the  joint  is  sure  to 
rot,  and  destroy  the  whole  cutting.  Choose  a  well-shaded  and 
moist  situation,  but  not  under  the  drip  of  trees.  If  the  spot  is 
exposed  to  the  sun,  the  cuttings  must  be  shaded  with  some 
slight  covering.  The  soil  may  advantageously  be  watered  with 
a  fine  rose  watering-pot  some  hours  before  planting.  When  the 
cuttings  are  planted,  not  more  than  an  inch  should  be  left  above 
the  soil,  and  the  earth  must  be  pressed  firmly  round  the  joint  at 
the  bottom  of  the  cutting,  for  on  this  much  of  the  success  of  the 
operation  depends.  A  slight  sprinkling  of  water  may  then  be 
given,  but  not  so  much  as  to  unsettle  the  root.  The  cuttings 
will  require  shading  more  particularly  than  watering;  but  not  so 
as  to  exclude  the  light  and  air,  or  they  will  blanch  and  die  off. 
After  the  first  fortnight  take  off  the  glass,  mat,  or  other  covering 
at  night,  and  replace  it  at  nine  in  the  morning,  or  before  the 
sun  reaches  them  strongly.  When  the  cuttiufrs  begin  to  grow, 
pinch  off  the  tops,  which  will  assist  their  striking,  and  render 
them  bushy.  When  the  plants  are  sufficiently  strong,  all  autho- 
rities agree  in  recommending  frequent  transplanting;  but  it  must 
be  done  in  cloudy  weather,  and  when  rain  may  be  safely  antici- 
pated. Beds  may  be  planted  in  March  and  April  for  summer 
blowing,  with  cuttings  which  were  struck  the  precedingautumn. 
Wash  the  roots,  and  insert  them  two  or  three  inches  deep  into 
the  soil,  watering  them  well  afterwards.  Other  beds  may  be 
planted  out  in  September,  October  and  November,  which  plants 
will  flower  in  the  spring.  The  best  situation  for  a  bed  of 
Heartsease  is  a  spot  which  has  the  morning  sun  till  about  ten 
o'clock,  or  the  afternoon  sun  after  three.  When  Heartsease 
are  kept  in  pots,  as  may  readily  be  done,  if  a  rich  loamy  compost 
is  used,  the  plant  may  be  trained  by  a  single  stem  to  a  small 
trellis,  when  it  will  attain  a  foot  or  more  in  height.  The  tops 
may  be  pinched  off  when  they  rise  too  high,  which  will  make 
them  branch  out.     They  must  be  kept  constantly  watered,  never 


96  THE   MANUAL   OF   GARDENIKG. 

allowing  them  to  become  dry ;  nor,  on  the  other  hand,  must  they 
be  exposed  to  too  much  sun. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

AxNNUAL,  BIENNIAL,  AND  PERENNIAL  FLOWERS. 

The  annexed  list  embraces  a  handsome  assortment  of  border 

flowers,  which  are  reared  from  seed,  and  principally  bloom  the 
same  year  in  which  they  are  sown.  The  following  directions 
for  their  culture,  which  we  have  extracted  from  the  catalogue  of 
Messrs.  D.  Landreth  &  Munns,  Seedsmen,  Philadelphia,  may  be 
of  service  to  the  inexperienced. 

OBSERVATIONS    ON   THE    CULTURE    OF   ANNUAL    AND    BIENNIAL 

FLOWERS. 

JKature  of  the  soil,  and  its  preparation  Jhr  use. — The  soil  best 
adapted  to  the  greater  variety  of  garden  flowers,  is  a  deep  rich 
loam,  by  which  is  to  be  understood,  a  consistence  not  so  much 
abounding  in  sand  as  to  have  the  particles  separate  or  distinct, 
nor  so  tenacious  as  to  require  an  efibrt  to  pulverise  it,  in  the 
operation  of  digging.  But  as  in  most  cases  we  are  unable  to 
select  our  garden  location,  with  reference  to  that  object  alone,  it 
therefore  remains  for  us  to  accommodate  ourselves  to  circum- 
stances, and  obtain  by  artificial  means  that  wliich  is  otherwise 
denied.  Those  whose  residence  is  on  a  soil  in  which  sand  is  the 
chief  component,  may  much  improve  it,  indeed,  mainly  overcome 
the  objection,  by  the  use  of  loamy,  or  if  that  cannot  be  obtained, 
clayey  matter,  well  incorporated  with  it;  not  in  an  excessive 
quantity,  but  in  moderate  dressings  from  time  to  time,  which, 
with  the  free  use  of  decomposed  manures,  (alone  calculated  for 
light  dry  soils,)  may  ultimately  bring  it  to  produce  in  perfection, 
nearly  every  flovvor  which  admits  of  garden  culture — and  the 
task  is  not  an  in)practicab!e  labour,  when  directed  only  to  the 
department  of  the  flower-garden.  On  the  contrary,  those  whose 
location  is  on  stiff,  clayey  soil,  may  correct  the  evil,  by  the  free 
nse  of  sand  of  any  description;  pure  river  sand,  for  instance,  is 
quite  suitable,  the  object  being  not  to  enrich,  but  to  render  less 
adhesive;  the  sand  should  be  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the 
natural  soil,  as  deeply  as  may  well  be  done  with  the  spade,  and 
if  the  texturp  be,  or  approach  the  stift'pst  clay,  it  may  be  neces- 
sary to  trt-nch-dig  it,  so  as  to  get  a  still  deeper  soil  of  the  proper 
kind. — indeed  in  some  cases  ii  may  be  found  nece.-sary  to  under- 
drain,  which  is  done  in  a  variety  of  modes;  the  most  simple  of 
which  is  by  digging  trenches  of  a  few  inches  width,  and  so  deep 


THE    MANUAL    OF    GARDENING.  97 

as  not  to  be  disturbed  by  the  ci^Uure  of  the  crops,  which  trenches, 
after  being  partially  filled  up  with  brick-bats,  shells,  coarse  gravel, 
or  similar  subsitarices,  are  entirely  closed  with  soil — the  drains, 
however,  are  of  little  use  unless  they  have  a  reasonable  descent, 
and  discharge  beyond  the  boundaries  of  the  garden. 

The  laying  out  the  grounds. — Having  obtained  the  proper 
soil,  the  next  step  is  to  lay  out  the  grounds,  which  mast  be 
governed  in  some  degree  by  their  shape  and  location,  but  mainly 
by  the  taste  of  tlie  proprietor.  Some  are  pleased  with  regular 
beds  and  borders — others  can  see  no  beauty  in  straight  lines,  and 
form  their  grounds  into  ovals,  circles,  and  irregular  figures  of 
many  forms.  Perhaps  a  uiiion  of  the  two  modes,  is  the  truer 
taste;  in  either  case  they  should  be  edged  with  neatness,  and  for 
that  purpose  box- wood,  the  vernal  iris,  thrifr,  grass,  &c,,  are  used  ; 
where  it  is  desired  to  combine  utility  and  ornament,  the  straw- 
berry may  be  used  with  advantage.  That  work  performed,  it 
then  becomes  necessary  to  enrich  the  soil,  or  supply  the  exhaus- 
tion of  repeated  cropping  ;  for  this  purpose,  in  the  flower-garden, 
decomposed  manure  and  such  as  is  least  likely  to  contain  the 
seeds  of  weeds,  or  grasses,  only  should  be  used.  It  may  be  ap- 
plied immediately  preceding  the  spring  digging,  or,  which  is  pre- 
ferable, in  the  autumn.  At  the  proper  time,  in  spring,  the  ground 
should  bo  deeply  dug  and  thoroughly  pulverized,  preparatory  to 
receiving  the  seeds. 

Time  and  mode  of  sowing  the  seeds. — There  are  some  few 
hardy  annual  flowers  which  grow  more  vigorously,  and,  of  con- 
sequence, whose  beauties  are  more  fully  developed  when  sown 
in  the  autumn,  so  as  to  vegetate  previous  to  frost.  Among  such 
may  be  enumerated  the  beautiful  double  Larkspur,  all  varieties 
of  Poppies,  G/'llia,  Straxoherry  Spinach,  Sweet  William,  Piiiks 
of  all  kinds,  Evening  Primrose,  Coreopsis  linctorin,  &c.  There 
are  others  which  will  not  endure  the  frost,  but  the  seeds  of  which 
vegetate  much  earlier  in  the  spring,  after  having  passed  the 
winter  in  the  earth,  among  which  are  the  Convolvulus,  the  varie- 
ties whereof  .i^e  very  showy  when  properly  trained  :  Cypress 
Vine,  Marvel  of  Peru,  variegated  Euphorbia,  Double  Balsa- 
mine,  Ceyitam  ea,  Helianlhus,  &c.  These,  when  opportunity  ad- 
mit, should  be  sown  in  autumn,  and  the  places  carefully  marked, 
that  the  earth  may  remain  undisturbed  in  spring,  when  digging 
that  adjacent.  Met  varieties  of  garden  flowers  are,  however, 
sown  in  spring-,  indeed  all  may  be,  with  success.  With  many 
delicate  kinds,  the  best  mode  by  far,  is  to  start  them  in  a  hot-bed 
or  in  a  cold  frame,  under  glass.  Tiie  management  of  these 
frames  requires  seme  little  practical  experience,  and  young  srar- 
deners  would  find  it  more  satisfactory  to  obtain  instruction  from 
6ome  competent  neighbour,  than  to  depend  on  merely  written 
9 


98  THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDENING. 

directions.  In  the  vicinity  of  Philadelphia,  the  time  chosen  for 
Betting  these  beds  is  about  the  first  of  March  ;  of  course  it  should 
be  later  or  earlier,  as  we  reside  north  or  south  of  that  latitude. 
The  beds  do  not  require  to  be  formed  of  ra\ich  manure,  and  great 
care  should  be  used  that  they  are  properly  ventilated,  else  the 
plants  will  grow  weakly,  and  be  unable  to  bear  transplanting. 

As,  in  all  probability,  most  cultivators  of  flowers  may  not  find 
it  convenient  to  form  hot-beds  for  this  purpose,  our  remarks  will 
be  directed  to  their  culture  in  the  open  ground.  About  the  1st 
to  the  15th  of  April,  for  the  latitude  of  Philadelphia,  or  as  a 
general  direction,  when  the  apple  or  pear  is  in  full  bloom,  the 
work  in  the  flower  garden  may  safely  commence.  The  borders 
and  compartments,  intended  to  be  decorated,  should  receive  a 
good  dressing  of  manure,  (if  not  applied  in  autumn,)  and  be 
neatly  dug  and  raked  free  of  clods,  stones  and  inequalities,  in 
which  state  it  will  be  ready  to  receive  the  seeds  of  the  more 
hardy  flowers,  which  may  be  sown,  either  in  patches  in  the  places 
which  they  are  permanently  to  occupy,  or  in  parallel  lines  across 
the  beds, to  be  subsequently  thinned  out,  and  transplanted  toother 
portions  of  the  grounds ;  in  many  cases  the  latter  is  the  better 
plan. — One  advantage  is,  that  a  small  piece  of  ground  only  is  re- 
quired to  raise  the  plants,  and,  as  they  thrive  best  on  freshly  dug 
ground,  the  garden  need  not  be  dug  until  they  are  of  a  suitable 
size  to  transplant ;  they  are  also  more  readily  weeded  in  such 
rows,  or  seed-beds,  and  unless  that  be  attended  to  with  much 
care,  those  which  are  slow  to  vegetate,  or  of  weak  growth,  may 
be  overrun,  and  perhaps  totally  destroyed.  The  rows  should  be 
separated  sufficiently  to  admit  a  small  hoe  between  them,  and 
should  be  plainly  marked  to  facilitate  the  weeding.  Seeds  which 
are  of  small  size,  and  many  flower  seeds  are  exceedingly  minute, 
should,  when  sown,  be  covered  very  delicately,  not  exceeding  a 
small  fraction  of  an  inch ;  the  usual  plan  is  to  draw  the  rows  of 
a  depth  to  correspond  with  the  size  of  the  seeds  to  be  sown,  and 
after  sowing  close  them  by  drawing  a  rake  in  the  direction  of  the 
rows,  or  by  sprinkling  a  little  nicely  prepared  earth  over  them. 

With  all  the  skill  that  may  be  used,  it  not  unfrequently  occurs, 
that  owing  to  unfavourable  circumstances,  such  as  too  much  or 
too  little  moisture,  cold,  chilly  weather,  &,c.,  the  seeds  fail  to 
vegetate ;  therefore  the  best  precaution  is  to  repeat  the  sowings 
of  each  kind,  at  short  intervals.  From  the  1.5th  of  April  to 
the  early  part  of  May,  or  as  a  uniform  rule  for  difl^erent  latitudes, 
when  the  oak  and  other  late  sprouting  trees  put  forth,  the  more 
tender  annuals  may  be  sown,  and  though  they  require  more  care 
than  others,  amply  compensate  by  their  exceeding  beauty. 

Transplantation  and  subsequent  culture — When  the  plantfi 
have  attained  a  sufficient  size,  let  them  be  removed,  in  moist  ana 


THE    MANUAL    OF   GARDENING.  99 

rainy  weather,  to  the  positions  they  are  intended  to  occupy,  or  if 
they  have  been  sown  in  such  position?,  thin  out  tfie  excess.  The 
arrangement  of  them  is  mucii  a  matter  of  taste,  but  in  general 
the  most  agreeable  and  picturesque  effect  is  produced  by  clump- 
ing' them,  and  in  such  a  manner  as  to  contrast  colours.  In  the 
operation  of  transplanting,  use  a  trowel  to  ease  them  up,  and  a 
dibble  to  insert  and  tighten  the  roots.  Most  persons  are  liable  to 
crowd  them,  in  which  state  their  beauties  are  but  partially  de- 
veloped ;  one  vigorous  plant  is  more  pleasing  than  a  dozen  puny 
and  attenuated.  In  view  of  greater  safety  do  not  set  out  all  on 
a  single  day,  lest  the  sun  suddenly  shine  forth  and  destroy  them, 
but  repeat  the  work  from  time  to  time,  in  suitable  weather.  If 
it  should  prove  dry  soon  after  transplanting,  it  may  be  found  ne- 
cessary to  give  water,  and  in  a  U:\v  days  the  surface  of  the 
ground  should  be  stirred,  which  will  invigorate  them.  As  they 
advance  in  growth,  frequent  weeding  and  hoeing  will  be  neces- 
sary as  well  for  the  sake  of  neatness  as  to  stimulate.  Some  will 
require  the  support  of  small  sticks,  others  of  stakes,  which  should 
be  hidden  from  view  as  much  as  possible,  and  those  which  are 
climbers  may  need  assistance  in  their  first  efforts  to  clasp  the 
poles  or  trellis. 

Neatness  in  a  flower  garden  is  of  the  first  importance,  and 
neither  the  variety  or  beauty  of  the  plants,  will  compensate  for 
its  absence.  It  is  in  vain  to  expect  a  pleasing  effect  from  flowers 
if  they  are  overgrown  by  weeds,  or  the  walks  and  general  aspect 
of  the  grounds  evince  disorder. 

It  may  be  worthy  of  remark  that  European  catalogues  contain 
the  names  of  a  multitude  of  flowers  which  are  of  but  little  worth. 
Many  of  them  present  nothing  attractive  —  others  which  are 
beautiful,  are  unsuited  to  our  climate,  and  seldom  reach  per- 
fection. 

c  denotes  climbing  or  running  plants,  a  annual,  b  biennial, 
p  perennial,  t  tender. 

a  Adonis  miniata — Flos  Adonis,  or  Pheasant's  eye. 

a  Amaranthus  caudates — Love  lies  bleeding,  red  and  yellow. 

a hypocondriacus — Prince's  Feather. 

a  var.  giganteus — Monstrous  crimson  Amaranthus. 

a tricolor — Three  coloured  do. 

p  Angallis — Pimpernel. 

b  Argemone  Mexicana — Yellow  Prickly  Poppy. 

b  albiflora — While  flowered  do. 

.  ,       .  i  China  Aster,  fine  double  flowers  of 

a    Aster  smensis —  <        •  , 

(  various  colours. 

a    Avena  sensitiva — Animated  Oats. 

p    Agrostemma  coronaria — Rose  Campion. 


a 


a 


100  TIJE   MANUAL    OP   GARDENING. 

p    .Agrostemma  rosea  alba — Do.,  with  white  centre. 

•  uu         •         •         S  Chinese  Hollyhock,  double,  and 
p    Althea   sinensis — <        •      ,        i        j 
*^  (  variously  coloured. 

p  Antirrhinum  majus — Snap  Dragon,  finely  variegated. 

p  Aquilegia  vulgaris — Double  Columbine,  variously  coloured. 

p  Asclepias  tuberosa — Orange  Swallow-Wort. 

c  Blitum  capitatum — Strawberry  Spinach. 

a  Cacalia  coccinea — Scarlet  Cacalia,  or  tassel  flower. 

tb  Calceolaria  sp.-  \  Calceolaria   or  slipper  wort,  various, 

^         (  very  splendid. 
a    Campanula  speculum — Venus'  Looking-glass. 
a    Centaurea  Americana — American  Centaurea. 

b    benedicta — Blessed  Thistle. 

a    Celosia  cristata — Dwarf  Crimson  Cockscomb. 
a    var.  lutea — do.       Yellow        do. 

r^u  •      ^,  ^  Ten  week  Stock-iilly-flower,  scarlet, 

Cheiranthus   annuus — <  ,  j      ■    •'    -^  v«...^v, 

(  purple,  and  crimson. 

b    var. — Bromplon  t-tock,  various  colours. 

p cheiri — Bloody  Wall-flower. 

riu  tu  •  S  Annual  Chrysanthemum, 

Chrysanthemum  coronanum — <     .  ,        j    -^n         "    '  » 
•^  (  white  and  yellow. 

ta  Clark ia  pulchella — Beautiful  Ciarkia. 

a    elegans — Elegant  do. 

a    Cleome  grandiflora-  ]  Sa'utifbr^'^'^  ^^'''"'^'  "^"^  ^"^ 
a    Collinsia  grandiflora — Great  flowered  Collinsia. 

t  a bicolour — Two  coloured  do. 

a    Convolvulus  minor — Dwarf  Convolvulus,  beautiful. 

a  c major — Large        do.  various  colours. 

p    Coreopsis  tinctorea — Elegant  Coreopsis. 

b    Crepsis  barbata — Golden  Hawkweed. 

tacCucurbita  clavata  —  Club-shaped    Gourd   {fruit  six  feet 

long.) 
p    Campanula  media — Canterbury-Bell,  white  and  blue. 
p    Campanula  var. — Campanula,  double-flowered. 
tpcCobea  scandans — Mexican  climbing  Cobea. 
ta  Calendrina  grandiflora — Great  flowered  Calendrina. 

t  a speciosa — Showy  flowered      do. 

ta discolour — Various  coloured    do. 

a  Delphinum  var.  fl.  rosea-  \  ^^"^'^  '°^'^^',  Larkspur,  various 
'^  I  colours,  mixed — beautiful. 

p  grandiflora — Perennial  Larkspur. 

p  Dianthus  annus — China  Pink. 

p caryophylius — Carnation  Pink. 

p hortensis — Clove  Pink. 

p pluinarius — Pheasant's-eye  Pink. 


THE  MANUAL  OP  GARDENING.  101 

T^•     ,r       t    1   X         S  Sweet  William,  now  and  splendid 
p    Dianthus  barbatus — <        •  ,•  '  ^ 

^  (  varieties, 

p deltoides — London  Pride. 

p    Digitalis  purpurea — Purple  Fox  Glove. 

p iutea — Yellow         do. 

p ferruq-inia — Iron  coloured  do. 

p    grandiflora — Great  flowered  do. 

tacDolichos  lablab — Purple  Hyacinth  Bean. 

-r\  u\-      •       ^        S  Mexican  Dahlia,  the  most  showy  of 
p    Dahlia  pinnata —  <  r,  •  ,  •      i 

^  t-  ^  flowers,  various  colours  mixed. 

a    Euphorbia  variegata — Variegated  Euphorbia. 

p    Eupatorium  coeiestes — Blue,  or  celestial  Eupatorium. 

a    EschoUzia  crocea — Yellow  Escholtzia. 

b    Glaucium  luteum — Horned  Poppy. 

P  ,  ,       ^  Globe  amaranthus,  or  BachelorV 

"         ^*      ^        I  button,  white  and  purple, 
b    Gilia  capitata — Blue  Gilia. 

b    tricolor— Three  coloured  do. 

b    Hespeiis  matronalis — Rocket. 
p    Hemorocallis  coerulea — Blue  day  lily. 
p    Hibiscus  palustrus — Swamp  Hibiscus, 
b manihot — Palmated  yellow  do. 

splendens, 

a    Iberis  var.  speciosa — New  Purple  Candytuft. 

rBalsamine  or   Lady's  Slipper,  fine 
a    Impatiens  balsamina — <  double    flowers,    beautifully    varie- 

C  gated. 

a var. — Carnation  Balsamine,  new,  superbly  mottled. 

a    Ipomea  quamoclit — Crimson  Cypress  vine. 

ac coccinea — Scarlet  Morning-glory. 

ac  Lathyrus  odoratus — Sweet  Pea,  in  variety. 

pc latifolius — Everlasting  Pea. 

a    Leptosiphon  densiflorus — Close-flowered  Leptosiphon. 

Loasa  nitida — Shining  Loasa. 
a    Lupinus  pilosus — L^rge  blue  and  white  Lupin. 

a luteus — Small  yellow  Lupin. 

a Cruikshanki — Fine  new  Lupin. 

nanus — Dwarf  Lupin  new  and  beautiful. 

p    Lychnis  chalcedonica — Scarlet  Lychinis. 

p var. — White  do. 

a    Malope  trifida — Scarlet  Malope. 
tb  Mesembryanthemum  crystalinum — Ice  Plant, 
t  a  Mimosa  sensitiva — Sensitive  Plant. 
a    Mirabilis  jalapa — Marvel  of  Peru,  various  colours, 
tb  Mimulus  ringens — Monkey  Flower. 
a    Nemophila  atomaria — Speckled  Nemophila. 
9* 


102  THE   MANUAL    OF   GARDENING. 

a    Nigella  Damascenn — Damascus  Nigella. 
a    Kolana  prostrata — Trailing  Nolana. 
p    Onolbera  grandiilora — Evening  Primrose. 
a    Papaver  somnifera — Opiunn  Poppy. 

p bracteata — Perennial  Poppy. 

a    ., var. — Poppies,  of  various  kinds. 

Penfclemon  pubescens — Downy  Penstemon. 

rosea — Rose-coloured,  do. 

acPhaseolus  muitifiorus — Scarlet  Running  Bean. 

var. — Painted  Lady  Bean. 

b    Petunia  nyclaginiflora — Large  fl.  Petunia. 


INDEX. 


A 

Acacia 2S 

Acer 60 

Aconite 76 

Winter ib. 

^Esculus 61 

macrostachya 45 

Agapanthus  umbellaus 28 

Acrrostemma 78 

Ailanthus  glandulosa 61 

Almond,  Dwarf 44 

Althea ^. . *  »i  ..i.ji , .  49 

sinensis  . .".  .t . .  v  .Ti '. . .  76 

Atnar3^11is 28 

fbrmosissima 78 

Amyg-dalis  nana v. . .  44 

Anemone 77 

Hepatica 78 

Aniseed  tree 39 

Annual,  biennial  and  perennial 

flowers 95 

Antirrhinum 78 

Ampelopsis  quinquefolia  ....  73 

Arborvitte 72 

Aristolochia  sipho 73 

Ash 62 

Aster  argophyllis 28 

— —  Cape 36 

Aquilegia 78 

Aucaba  Japanica 28, 45 

Auricula  29 

Autumnal  crocus 80 

Azalea 28,  45 

B 

Balm  of  Gilead  fir 71 

Bark  tree,  Georgia 51 

Beech 61 


Beg-onia  discolor 30 

Bellis 78 

Beng-al  ever-blooming  roses  . .  52 

Berberis  vulgaris 45 

aquifolium ib. 

Berberry ib. 

Betula  ". 61 

Bignonia 73 

capensis 43 

grandiflora 74 

Birch   61 

Birthwort 73 

Bladder  senna 45 

Bletia  Tankervilli 30 

Broom,  Scotch 58 

Brunsvigia  Josephina 30 

Bulbs  in  water-glasses 19 

Buxus 69 

sempervirens 15 

C 

Cactus    30 

Calycanthus  Floridus 46 

Camelina  ccelestus 79 

Camellia  Japanica 31 

alba  plena 34 

amabile ib. 

candidissima ib. 

conchiflora ib. 

donkelari ib. 

decora ib. 

dorsetti 35 

estheri   ib. 

Elphinstonia 36 

fimbriata 34 

hcptangularis 36 

Hosackia 35 

incarnati  ib. 

(103) 


104 


INDEX 


Camellia,  Lady  Hume's  blush 

-  '      Landrethii '•  .  • 

• multiflora 

nivalis 


sassanquea  rosea  . . 

speciosa  

• pomponia  plena  .  . 

variegata  plena  . . . 

Wclbankiana  .  . .  . 

Caiiipanula  pyraniidalis 

persicilblia 

Carnation   

Carolina  jasmine 

Catalogue  of  flowers  ... 

C&talpa  cordifolia 

Cedar,  red 

white 


Celastrus  scandrans 

Cercis  Canadensis 

Cheiranthus 

China,  tea  of 

Chionanthus  Virginica 

Chrysanthemura  sinense 

Cineraria   

Cinnamomum  camphora  .... 

Cinquefoil 

Cistus 

Citrus 

Clematis 37, 

Climbing  roses 

Cobea  scandans 

Cockscomb 

Coffee  tree,  Kentucky 

Colchicum  autumnale 

Columbine 

Colutea  arborescens 

Conservatory 

Convallaria 

Corchorus  Japonicus 

Coral  plant 

Corn  flag 

Coronilla 

Correa 

Corymbosum 

Crape  myrtle 

Crataegus  oxycantha 

Creepers,  hardy  vines  and  . . . 

Crocus  vernus 

Crow  foot 


35 

34 
ib. 
35 
34 
35 
36 
35 
36 
79 
ib. 
37 
74 
99 
61 
69 
ib. 
74 
47 
79 
43 
47 
80 
36 
ib. 
91 
36 
37 
74 
57 
37 
38 
62 
80 
78 
45 
20 
81 
46 
38 
86 
37 
ib. 
38 
39 
46 
73 
80 
91 


Crown  imperial 85 

Cruenta 46 

Capressus    61 

thuvoides 69 


Cydonia  Japonica 46 

Cypress,  deeiduoas 61 

Cytissus  laburnum   46 

D 

Dahlia 82 

Daisy 78 

Daphne 37 

Cneorum 47 


Deciduous  cypress y. 

Deutzia  scabra 47 

Dianthus 31,  87 

Digitalis 85 

Dracana  ferrea 37 

Dragon  plant,  purple  leaved  . .  ib. 

Dutch  pipe 73 

Dwarf  almond   44 

horse  chestnut 45 


E 

Eardrop,  ladies' 38 

Edgings 14 

Elm 67 

Epacis 37 

Erica   37 

Erythrina  crista-galli  . .    ....  38 

Euongmus 38 

European  mountain  ash 66 

privet 49 

Evening  primrose 90 

Ever -blooming  Bengal  roses  .  52 

Evergreen  thorn 70 

trees,  hardy 67 

Everlasting  pea 89 


Fagus 61 

Ficus 38 

Fir,  silver 71 


Five-leaved  ivy,  Virginia 

Flag,  corn   

Flower,  passion 

Flowers,  catalogue  of 


73 

86 
40 
99 


INDEX. 


105 


Flower,  globe 46 

Flowers,  annual,  biennial  and 

perennial 

Foxglove 

Franklinia 

Fraxinclla   

Fraxinuf5    

Frencli  honeysuckle 

Fringe  tree 

Fritcllaria  impcrialis 

Frutescens    

Fuchsia 

Fumaria 

Furaatory 

G 

Galantlnis 

Garden,  laying  out  the  ■ 

Gelsemium  nitidum 38, 

Georgia  bark  tree 

Geranium 

Gilead  fir.  Balm  of 

Gingko 

Gladiolus  , 

Glasses,  bulbs  in  water 

Globe  flower 

Glycine 

Golden  tree 

Gold  tree,  Japan 

Gordonia  pubescens 

Gorteria 

Gravel  walks 

Green-bouse  . . . . , 

Growth  of  plants 

Gymnocladus  Canadensis .... 

H 


95 
85 
47 
86 
62 
87 
47 
85 
46 
3s 
86 
ib. 


Halesia 

Hardy  deciduous  trees  . . . 

■ evergreen  trees  .    . . . 

ornamental  shrubs  . . 

vines  and  creepers  .  . 

Hawthorn    

Hearts-ease 

Heath 

Hedera  helix 

Hedysarura 

Heliotronium  Peruvianum 


48 
59 
67 
43 
73 
46 
93 
37 
74 
87 
38 


Hemlock  spruce 71 

Hesperis  ....    86 

Holly 69 

Hollyhock 76 

Honeysuckle    75 

French   87 

Wood    45 

Horse-chestnut,  dwarf ib. 

Hyacinth 87 

Hybiscus  Syriacus 49 

Hydrangea    39 

hortensis 49 

Hyrpeicum ib. 

I  J 

India  rubber  tree 38 

Ilex 69 

Illicium 39 

Iris 89 

Ivy,  Virginia  five-leaved  ....  73 

Jacobean  lily 78 

Japan  gold  tree 45 

Japonicus  argenteus 38 

Jambosa  vulgaris 39 

Jasmine,  Carolina 74 

Jasminura  oflacinale ib. 

Judas  tree 47 

Juniperus,  Suecia 69 

K 

Kalmia 49 

Kennedia 39 

Kentucky  coffee  tree 62 

L 

Laburnum  cytissus 46 

Ladies'  eardrop 38 

LagerstrEemia 39 

Lathyrus  latifolius   89 

Laurel 49 

I ,  mountain 42 

I  Laurustinus 43 

I  Laying  out  the  garden 13 

■  Leadwort 42 

Ligustrum  Em^opa 49 

I  Lilac   ,. .  59 

:  Lily 89 

j Jacobean   78 

I of  the  valley 81 


lUo 


INDEX. 


Linden 66  ' 

Linum     39  i 

Lime  tree 66 

Liriodendron  tulipifera 62 

Lonicera 75  I 

Lychnis   69 

M 

Maclura  aurantica 62 

Magnolia 39,  63 

• obovata 50 

Maiden-hair  tree  . .  f 63 

Manettia  glabra 39 

Manure    \S 

Maple 60 

Marvel  of  Peru 89 

Mespirus  pyracantJia 70 

Mctrosideros 39 

Mimosa   28 

Miniulus  moschatus 40 

Mirabilis    89 

Mist  tree 51 

Mock-orange     50 

Monkshood   76 

Mountain  ash,  European  ....  66 

laurel 42 

Musk  plant   40 

Myrtle ib. 

— — ,  crape 39 

N 

Narcissus 89 

Nerium 40 

Norway  fir 71 

O 

Observations  on  soils 27 

— —  on  the  culture  of  annual 

and  biennial  tlowers 96 

Laying  out  the  grounds  ...  97 
Time  and  mode  of  sowing 

the  seed 97 

Transplantation  and  subse- 
quent culture 98 

Oleander  40 

On  planting 15 

—^   transplanting   trees    and 
shrubs 15 


Orange .37 

,  mock   50 

,  Osage 62 

Oriental  plane 64 

Ornamental  shrubs,  hardy  ...  43 


Paeonia 90 

Pansics 93 

Passiflora 40 

Passion  flower ib. 

Pea,  everlasting 89 

Pelargonium    40 

Penstemon 91 

Perennial,  annual  and  biennial 

flowers 96 

Periwinkle 75 

Peru,  Marvel  of 89 

Philadelphus 50 

Pinckneya  pubens 51 

Pink 81 

Pinus   70 

Pioney   90 

Plane,  oriental 64 

Plane  tree 63 

Planting,  on 15 

Plants,  growth  of 17 

Plant,  coral 38 

,  musk 40 

Plant  verandah   21 

Platanus   63 

Plumbago 42 

Polyanthus 90 

Potentilla 91 

Primrose,  evening ...  90 

Primula ib. 

Privet,  European 66 

Purple  magnolia 50 

leaved  dragon  plant  ....  37 


Pyrus  aucuparia 66 

Japonica 46 

R 

Ranunculus 92 

Red  bud 37 

Red  cedar   69 

Remarks  on  the  cultivation  of 
herbaceous,  bulbous  and 
tuberous-rooted  plants.   .    . .  7& 


INDEX. 


107 


ReUiarks  on  the  construction 

of  the  green-house 21 

— —  on  the  cultivation  of  ever- 
green trees 68 

vines  and  creepers 73 

on  gravel  walks  and  edg- 
ings   14 

— — —  on  manure 18 

on  planting 15 

on     transplanting    trees 

and  shrubs 16 

on  the  formation  of  loam  27 

Rhododendron 42,  71 

maximum 72 

ilhus  continus 51 

Robinia  hispida 51 

Rocket 86 

Rose  apple 39 

ca}npion   78 

Roses. 

Bengal  ever-blooming  . .  5'2 

climbing 57  j 

garden  ;  •  •  • 55 

Isle  de'Bourbon 57  j 

noisette 56 

noisette ^of  clusters 54  ; 

microphylla   58 

niusk-scented ib.  i 

rock 36  i 

tea 53 

Roso-acacia   51 

S 

S  ilisburia  adantifolia 65 

Saxatilis 93 

Scotch  broom 58 

-; fir 70 

Senna,  bladder 45 

Shrubs,  hardy  ornamental  ...  43 

Silver  fir YT 

Snapdragon 78 

Snowball   59 

Snowberry ib. 

Snowdrop 86 

tree   48 

Soils,  observations  on 27 

Sorbus  aucuparia   66 

Spar ti urn  scoparium 58  i 


Spirea 58 

Spring  crocus 80 

Spruce,  hemlock 71 

Staflf  tree 74 

Steuartia 59 

St.  John's  wort   v  *  • '  ^^ 

Stock-jilly  flower   .... .  .-  i  ^l~^ 

Styrax 59 

Sumac,  Venetian 51 

Swedish  juniper 69 

Sweet-scented  colt's-foot  ....  92 

shrub 46 

Sympliora  racemosa 59 

Sy ringa ib. 


Taxodium 61 

Taxus  baccata 72 

Tea 43 

rose 53 

Tecoma  capensis 43 

Templetoniana  retusa 43 

Thea 43 

Thorn,  evergreen 70 

Thrift 15 

Thuji 72 

Tilia , 66 

Tree  box 69 

Tree,  fiyuge  .........  t  .... .  47 

,  Georgia  bark  .^ 51 

,  gold   45 

,  India  rubber 38 

,  Judas 47 

,  Kentucky  coffee 62 

,  lime   66 

,  maiden-hair 63 

,  mist 51 

,  plane 63 

,  snowdrop 48 

Tfee  (ge,Heaven 61 


Tre^  hardy  deciduous 59 

and    shrubs,   on   trans- 
planting   15 

hardy  evergreen 67 


Trumpet  flower 73 

Tulipa 93 

Tulip  tree 62 

Tussilago 92 


108 


INDEX. 


U 


w 


Ulmus 67 


Valley,  lily  of  the 

Venetian  sumac 

Verandali,  plant 

V^erbena    

Veronica  cha8madrys  . . . 
Viburnum  opulus  .;;. .  .^-. 
■ tinns ^■-.'.  • .":' 


Vinca 

Vines  and  creepers,  hardy  .  . . 

Viola  tricolor 

Virgilia  lutea 

Virginia  live-leavcd  ivy   

Virgin's  bower 37, 


81 1 
51  ! 
21 
43 
93 

59; 

43! 
75 
73. 
93  I 

681 
73, 

741 


Walks,  gravel 14 

Wall-flou-er 60 

Water-glasses,  bulbs  in 19 

White  cedar 69 

dittany   66 

pine 70 

Wind-flower 77 

Winter  aconite   76 

Wood  honeysuckle 45 

Wort,  St.  John's 49 

Wych  elm   67 

Wistaria 75 


Yellow  wood 
Yew  


68 
72 


tl. 


MOfOnr  LIBRARY 

!l»  C  StaU  College 


i 


PUBLISHED    BY    LEA   AND    BLANCHARD, 


Now  ready,  in  One  Volume  ^vo.  iviih  Illustrations, 

THE    HORSE, 

BY  WILLIAM  YOU  ATT. 

A  NEW  EDITrON,  WITH  NUMEROUS  ILLUSTRATIONS; 

COxVTAIXIXa   A    FULL  ACCOUNT   OF   THE 

DISEASES    OF    THE    HORSE, 

WITH  THEIR  MODE  OF  TREATMENT; 
HIS    ANATOMY, 

AND  THE  USUAL  OPERATIONS  PERFORMED  ON  HIM; 
HIS  BREEDING,  BREAKING,  AND  MANAGEMENT' 

AND  HINTS  ON  HIS  SOUNDNESS,  AND  THE 
PURCHASE  AND  SALE. 


TOGETHER    WITH    A 

GENERAL  HISTORY  OF  THE  HORSE; 

A     DISSERTATION    ON 

THE  AMERICAN  TROTTING  HORSE, 

HOW  TRAINED  AND  JOCKEYED, 
AN  ACCOUNT  OF  HSS  REMARKABLE  PERFORMANCES; 

A  X  0 

AN  ESSAY  ON  THE  ASS  AND  THE  MULE, 

BY   J.    S.    SKINNER, 

Assistant  Post  liastec  Genei-al,  and  Editor  of  t"he  Turf  Register. 

PHILADELPHIA: 

LEA    AND    BLANCHARD. 

1844. 


REPUBLISHED  FROM  THE    NEW  EDITION  JUST  ISSUED    IN   LONDON, 
BY  THE  SOCIETY  FOR  DIFFUSING  USEFUL  KNOWLEDGE. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


PUBLISHED   BY   LEA   &   BLANCHARD; 


COOPER\S  NAVAL  HISTORY; 

A   NEW   EDITION. 


A    N  AVA  L    H  I  STORY 

OP 

THE    UNITED    STATES, 

BY  J.  FENIMORE  COOPER,  ESQ. 

In  Two  handsome  Volumes,  bound  in  embossed  cloth* 

A  new  Edition,  revised  and  corrected,  with  an  Lidex  to  the  volumes. 


"  If  there  u'as  one  man  before  all  other?,  whom  we  could  have  selected  for  this 
task,  that  man  was  Mr.  Cooper,  In  all  things  relative  to  the  Navy  he  writes  with 
enthusiasm.  The  ocean  is  his  element.  With  the  ijlorious  rarecr  of  the  service  in 
which  iiis  yonth  was  i)assed.  he  takes  a  laniiaiile  pride,  and  he  betrays  in  every  page 
the  earnest  desire  of  his  heart  to  make  its  merits  known  to  the  world.  In  dwelling 
upon  the  achievements  of  our  young  Navy,  the  pure  American  fire  of  ids  genius  once 
more  blazes  out  as  brigluly  as  ever.  la  the  interest  which  he  has  thrown  around 
the  cruises  and  combats  of  our  ships  of  war,  we  trace  the  master  hand  which  drew 
the  Pilot;  nor  will  many  chapters  in  this  work  yield  in  jxiint  of  romantic  interest 
to  any  of  his  aca-Rovuls.  Many  of  the  naval  actions  of  the  RevoJution,  and  especially 
the  cruisings  of  Paul  Jones,  and  the  desperate,  fight  between  the  Ron-lhunnje 
Richard  and  the  l^erapies  have  all  the  richness  of  ron»auce,  with  the  metJiod  and 
accuracy  of  stritl  history." — American  Traveller. 

"The  History  of  the  Navy  of  the  fnited  States  from  the  earliest  period  of  its 
existence,  in  the  dawn  of  the  Revolution,  through  all  its  discourai^eiuents,  reverses, 
trials,  and  glory,  was  a  task  worthy  of  the  author,  \v)io  ha<i  established  a  reputation, 
as  a  describer  of  nautical  events,  superior  to  that  of  any  other  living  writer.  The 
task  has  been  so  performed  as  to  leave  nothing  to  desire.  No  work  of  higher  interest 
has  been  published  in  the  United  States  for  many  years.  The  glories  of  American 
victories  are  fully  portrayed,  whilst,  at  the  same  time,  care  is  taken,  in  every  case, 
to  exhibit  a  fair  and  impartial  estimate  of  the  strength  and  appointments  of  anta- 
gonists' vessels  or  fleets.  In  this  way  the  work  acquires  the  credit  due  to  a  grave 
and  impartial  liistory." — Baltimore  Chronicle. 

•'  We  have  perused  this  history  with  im  little  curiosity  and  with  great  interest. 
Considering  the  brief  existence  of  the  American  marine,  it?  annals  are  more  event- 
ful, more  romantic  and  more  various,  than  any  in  e,\istence.  Nothiug  can  surpass 
the  energy  which  enabled  the  United  Slates  to  form  an  etT.'Ctive  navy,  at  a  time 
when  they  could  hardly  he  said  to  have  had  a  political  existence,  and  when  they 
were  beset  by  greater  difficulties  than  any  which  an  infant  nation  had  ever  yet  to 
encounter.  This  cons  deration  has  animated  thepres*-nt  historian,  whose  enthusiasm 
seems  to  be  kindled  by  his  ofiice  of  chronicler,  even  more  than  when  he  formerly 
sought  inspiration  from  the  same  source  in  constructing  his  famous  stories  of  the 
sea.  Altogether  this  history  is  a  valuable  one,  aiid  cannot  fail  to  pass  into  universal 
circulation.  The  incidents  which  took  place  in  the  naval  war  with  Tripoli,  are 
grander  and  more  heroic  than  any  thing  in  the  circle  of  romance,  and  are  detailed 
with  all  the  vigour  and  animation  of  Mr.  Cooper's  genius."  —  Brilisk  J^Taval  and 
Military  Magazine, 


SOLD   BY   ALL   BOOKSELLERS. 


PUBLISHED   BY    LEA&   BLANCHARD; 


THE   ONLY  COMPLETE  EDITION. 


THE 

LETTERS    OF    HORACE   WALPOLE, 

EARL  OF  ORFORD, 

CONTAINING 
NEARLY   THREE    HUNDRED    LETTERS, 

Now  first  published  from  the  originals,  forming'  an  uninterrupted  series, 
from  the  year  1735  to  1797  ;  containing  his  letters  to  George  Montagu, 
Esq. ;  Sir  Morace  Mann  ;  Rinhard  West,  Esq. ;  Lady  Craven ;  Gray  (the 
poet;)  Hon.  H.  Seymour  Conway;  John  Chute,  Esq.;  Sir  David  Dalrym- 
ple  ;  Rev.  William  Mason  ;  Lady  Hervey ;  the  Earl  of  Hertford  ;  Richard 
Bentley,  Esq. ;  Earl  of  Strafford ;  Mrs.  Hannah  More ;  David  Hume, 
Esq.,  &,c.,  &,c.,  with  a  splendid  Portrait  of  the  Author,  in  Four  beautiful 
Volumes. 


"  Besides  its  unrivalled  beauty  and  brilliancy,  the  collection  has  the  more  important 
merit  of  being  the  liveliest  picture  of  manners,  and  the  best  epitome  of  political  his- 
tory that  not  only  this,  but  any  country  possesses." — Quarterly  Review. 

"  No  general  collection  of  the  letters  of  Horace  Walpole  has  ever  been  made  which 
will  at  all  compare  in  fulness  with  the  present  work."— JVor£/i  j3m.  Review. 

"  Horace  Walpole  may  decidedly  claim  preeminence  for  ease  and  liveliness  of  ex- 
pression, terseness  of  remark,  and  fnlicity  of  narration  above  almost  all  the  epistolary 
writers  of  Great  Britain." — Quarlcrlij  Review. 

"  Walpole's  Letters  are  full  of  wit.  pleasantry,  and  information,  and  written  with 
singular  neatness  and  spriglitliness." — Edinburg  Review. 

"One  of  the  most  useful  and  important  publication  that  has  issued  from  the  press 
for  the  last  quarter  of  a  century.  It  is  illustrated  with  notes,  drawn  up  with  con- 
summate tact.  Such  a  work,  so  enriched  with  all  that  is  necessary  to  render  it  com- 
plete, is  one  of  the  most  valuable  that  any  lover  of  sterling  English  literature  can 
possess." — Sun. 

"  As  a  book  of  reference,  this  edition  of  Walpole's  Letters  must  henceforth  take 
its  place  among  the  memoirs  and  histories  of  the  time.  As  a  book  of  gossip,  it  is 
perhaps  the  completest  work  of  the  kind  in  the  English  language."— TAe  Times. 

"  One  of  the  very  best  works  of  its  class,  if  not  unique,  in  the  English  language ; 
a  work  full  "of  information,  full  of  anecdote,  and  full  of  amusemeiit ;  equally  fit  for 
the  library  of  the  scholar,  the  dilettante,  the  artist,  the  statesman,  and  the  general 
reader." — Literary  Gazette. 

"  Walpole's  Letters  are  unequalled  in  our  language ;  delightful  in  themselves,  and 
a  most  amusin?  and  instructive  commentary  on  the  history  of  parties,  and  of  the 
country,  from  1735  to  1797." — Athenceum. 

"It  is  the  only  complete  edition  of  the  incomparable  letters  of  this  'prince  of 
epistolary  writers,'  as  he  has  been  justly  called;  and  the  letters  themselves  are 
arranged  in  chronological  order." — Dublin  Evening  Mail. 

"Those  who  have  never  yet  read  Horace  Walpole's  letters— and  they  must  be  still 
in  their  teens— have  much  enjoyment  before  them;  those  who  are  familiar  with  his 
style,  including  all  who  deserve  to  read,  will  here  renew  the  pleasure  they  have  so 
often  experienced."— Jl/ornin^  Herald. 


SOLD   BY   ALL   BOOKSELLERS. 


PUBLISHED    BY   LEA    &   BLANCHARD; 


THE    SPEECHES 

HENRY  LORD  BROUGHAM, 

Upon  Questions  relating  to  Public  Rights,  Duties  and  Interests, 

WITH  HISTORICAL  INTRODUCTIONS; 

In  Two  handsome  Volumes,  bound  in  embossed  cloth,  or  law  sheep. 

CONTENTS. 

Military  Flogo:ing — Queen  Caroline — Libel  on  the  Durham  Clerg-y — 
Dissertation  on  the  Law  of  Libel — Commerce  and  Manufactures — Agri- 
cultural and  Manufacturing  Distress — Army  Estimates — Holy  Alliance — 
Slavery — Law  Reform — Parliamentary  Reform — Education — Poor  Laws 
—  Scotch  Parliamentary  and  Burgh  Reform  —  Scotch  Marriage  and 
Divorce  Bill  —  Establishment  of  the  Liverpool  Mechanic's  Institute^ — 
Speech  on  Neutral  Rights  —  Affairs  of  Ireland  —  Speech  at  the  Grey 
Festival  —  Change  of  Ministry  in  1834 —  Business  of  Parliament  —  Mal- 
treatment of  the  North  American  Colonies  —  Speech  on  the  Civil  List  — 
Privilege  of  Parliament. 

"  The  period  embraced  by  these  two  volumes  extends  over  a  space  of  thirty  years, 
from  1810  to  1840,  a  niosl  exciting  period,  during  all  of  which  Mr.  Brougham,  or  Lord 
Brougham,  played  a  most  distinguished  part;  and  upon  the  character  and  events  of 
which  he  exerted  no  mean  influence. 

"In  brief,  the  biographical  ligaments- which  bind  together  the  subjects  so  ably 
handled  in  these  volumes,  impart  compactness,  strength,  and  beauty  to  the  whole, 
and  the  head  of  a  family  who  introduces  such  works  to  his  sons  and  daughters, 
secures  to  thorn  an  inheritance  which  must  endure  to  them  for  the  whole  period  of 
existence."— JVa^iona/  Intelligencer. 

♦'  Who  does  not  desire  to  possess  all  the  speeches  of  this  great  philanthropist  on 
the  subject  of  the  poor  laws,  the  education  of  the  people,  the  law  of  libel,  and  other 
great  topics  of  universal  concernment  ?  In  the  two  large  volumes  before  us,  all  these 
proud  efforts  of  h'tman  learning,  genius,  and  intellect,  are  embodied^ — each  speech 
being  preceded  by  h  historical  introduction  of  the  occasion  and  circumstances  under 
which  it  was  delivered.  No  English  library  will  be  complete  without  these  volumes." 
— J^ew  York  Commercial. 

"These  volumes  contain  a  mine  of  literary  and  political  wealth  strongly  charac- 
teristic, both  i.:  manner  and  matter,  of  this  great  original  genius.  The  independence, 
the  vigonr,  the  manliness  of  thought,  which  is  liere  displayed,  and  the  stores  of 
wisdom  and  learning  with  which  the  volumes  abound,  cannot  fail  to  secure  for  their 
author  a  more  full  appreciation  than  ne  has  in  this  country  especially  enjoyed."— 
Madisonian. 


THE  ECCLESIASTICAL  AND  POLITICAL  HISTORY 

OF     THE 

POPES  OF   ROME, 

DURING  THE  SIXTEENTH  AND  SEVENTEENTH  CENTURIES, 
BY    LEOPOLD    RANKE, 

PROFESSOR    IN    THE    UNIVERSITY    OF    BERLIN; 

Translated  from  the  German  by  Sarah  Austin.     In  Two  Volumes. 

"  To  the  high  qualifications  of  profound  research,  careful  accuracy,  great  fairness 
and  candour,\vith  a  constant  reference  to  the  eenius  and  sjjirit  of  each  successive 
age,  common  tf)  the  historians  of  Germany,  Mr.  Ranke  adds  the  charm  of  a  singularly 
lucid,  terse  and  agreeable  sXy\e."'—Qvarterly  Revieio. 


SOLD   BY    ALL   BOOKSELLERS. 


PUBLISHED   BY   LEA  &   BLANCHARD; 


1 


Murray^s  Encyclopcedia  of  Geography^ 

BROUGHT   UP   TO    1842. 

PUBLISHED    BY    SUBSCRIPTION. 


THE 

ENCYCLOP^.DIx\  OF  GEOGRAPHY: 

COMPRI S INO 

A  COMPLETE  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  EARTH. 

PHYSICAL,    STATISTICAL,    COMMERCIAL,    AND    POLITICAL  ; 

EXHIBITING 

ITS  RELATION  TO  THE  HEAVENLY  BODIES— ITS  PHYSICAL  STRUCTURE 
—THE  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  EACH  COUNTRY; 

AND    THE 

INDUSTRY,  COMMERCE,  POLITICAL  INSTITUTIONS,  AND 
CIVIL  AND  SOCIAL  STATE  OF  ALL  NATIONS; 

BY   HUGH    MURRAY     F.R.S.E. 

ASSISTED    IN 

ASTRONOMY,  &c.  BY  PROF.  WALLACE,  I  BOTANY,  &c.  BY  PROF.  HOOKER, 
&EOLOGY.  &c.  BY  PROF.  JAMESON.        I  ZOOLOGY,  &c.  BY  W.  SWAINSON 

ILLUSTRATED  BY  EIGHTir-T-WTO  IVEAPS, 

Slntr  about  IHlcben  ?i)untrrcti  otjjec  IBnsrabiiifls  on  C2FooTj 

Representing  the  most  remarkable  objects  of  Nature  and  Art  in  every  region  of  the  Globe  ; 

TOGETHER     WITH 

A  MAP   OF   THE   UNITED   STATES, 

Drawn  by  Drayton,  from  Tanner's  Map,  and  Engraved  on  Copper,  in  which  is  embodied  the 
latest  information  relating  to  the  Internal  Improvements  of  this  country. 

REVISED,  CORRECTED, 
AND  BROUGHT  DOWN  TO  THE  PRESENT  PERIOD, 

AND   THE   PORTION    RELATING  TO   THE   UNITED   STATES   WRITTEN    ANEW, 

BY   T.   G.   BRADFORD, 
In  Three  handsome  Royal  Octavo  Volumes,  various  binding^s* 

Persons  can  be  supplied  by  sending  their  names  to  Ihe  Publishers, 
or  the  general  Agent, 

G.  W.  GORTON 


PHILADELPHIA. 


THE  LADY'S  CABINET  SERIES. 


LEA  &■  BLANCHARD  are  publishing,  under  the  above  title,  a  ntimb< 
of  V/orkS;  fitted  for  the  Boudoir,  by  Distinguished  Female  Au- 
thors.    They  are  all  done  up  to  match,  in  neat  lemon- 
colouied  glazed  paper,  large  duodecimo. 

IN    THIS    SERIES    ARE    CONTAINED, 

LIVES  OF  THE  QUEENS  OF  ENGLAND,  FROM  THE  NORMAN  CONQUEST ;  with 
Anecdotes  of  their  Courts,  now  first  published  from  Official  Documents,  and  other  authentic  records, 
private  as  well  as  public.  By  Agnes  Strickland.  First  Series,  from  Matilda  of  Flanders  to  Anne  of 
Warwick.    In  three  volumes,  price  Fifty  Cenis  a  volume. 

Second  Series,  from  Elizabeth  of  York  to  Queen  Elizabeth.  In  three  volumes,  price  Sixty-five  Cents 
each. 

THE  POETICAL  REMAINS  OF  LUCRETIA  M.  DAVIDSON,  collected  by  her  Mother,  with  a 
Biography  by  Miss  Sedgwick.    In  one  volume,  price  Fifty  Cents. 

THE  POETICAL  REMAINS  OF  THE  LATE  MARGARET  MILLER  DAVIDSON,  with  a 
Memoir  by  Washington  Irving.    In  one  volume,  price  Fifty  Cents, 

THE  POETICAL  WORKS  OF  MRS.  HEMANS.  with  a  Memoir  by  her  Sister,  Mrs.  Hughes,  and 
an  Essay  on  her  genius,  by  Mrs.  Sigourney.    To  be  complete  in  7  volumes. 

Vol.  I.,  Poems,  with  a  Memoir  by  Mrs.  Hughes,  and  Essay  by  Mrs.  Sigourney,  is  now  published.  Price 
Fifty  Cents. 

MEMOIRS  OF  THE  LOVES  OF  THE  POETS,  Biographical  Sketches  of  Women  celebrated  in 
Ancient  and  Modern  Poetry.  By  Mrs.  Jamieson,  Author  of  "  Diary  of  an  Ennuy6e,"  &.c.  In  one  large 
volume,  price  Seventy-five  Cents. 

STUDY  OF  THE  LIFE  OF  WOMAN,  Translated  from  the  French  of  Madame  Necker  de  Saus- 
Bure.    In  one  volume,  price  Seventy-five  Cents.  I 

ALSO,  TO  MATCH  THE  ABOVE. 

THE  EDUCATION  OF  MOTHERS;  OR,  THE  CIVILIZATION  OF  MANKIND  BY  WOMAN^v 
Translated  from  the  French  of  L.  .^ime  Martin,  by  Edwin  liCe,  Esq.    Corrected  from  the  Fourth  French 
Edition.    In  one  volume,  price  Seventy-five  Cents. 

PICCIOLA,  THE  PRISONER  OF  FENESTRELLA;  OR,  CAPTIVITY  CAPTIVE.  From  the 
French  of  M.  De  Saintine.    Third  American  Edition.    In  one  volume  12mo.,  price  Thirty-five  Cents. 

••  Perhaps  the  most  beautiful  and  touching  work  of  fiction  ever  written,  with  the  exception  of  Ua-:i 
dine."— ./3tZa5. 

NOW    READY, 
THE  COMPLETE  FLORIST;  Edited  by  a  distinguished  Florist  of  Philadelphia.    Price  Twenty-;; 
five  Cents.  i 

THE  COMPLETE  COOK  ;  Edited  by  Sanderson,  of  the  Franklin  House.    Price  Twenty-five  Cents. 
THE  COMPLETE  CONFECTIONER  ;  Edited  by  Parkinson.    Price  Twenty-five  Cents. 
Also,  will  shortly  be  published,  "THE  COMPLETE  KITCHEN  GARDENER."    Price  Twentjf-]| 
five  Cents.  ,.^^..,.,^~..-.^...^ 

MR.     cooper's     last    NOVEL, 
WYANDOTT^,  OR  THE  HUTTED  KNOLL.    In  two  volumes,  price  Twenty-five  CenU  each. 

NED  MYERS,  OR  A  LIFE  BEFORE  THE  MAST;  Edited  by  J.  Fenimore  Cooper,  Esq.  Ini; 
one  volume,  price  Thirty-seven  and  a  half  Cents. 

MR.  COOPER'S  NOVELS  AND  TALES,  complete,  in  46  volumes,  price  Twenty -five  Cents  each. 
Any  Work  sold  separately. 

BOZ'  WORKS,  cheap  edition.  In  six  volumes,  8vo.,  price  Two  Dollars  and  Fifty  Cents.  Any  work 
sold  separately. 

WHIMS  AND  ODDITIES,  by  Hood  ;  with  numerous  engravings.  In  one  volume  12mo.,  price 
Fifty  Cents. 

THE  HUNCHBACK  OF  NOTRE  DAME,  by  Victor  Hugo.    Price  Twenty-five  Cents. 

SMOLLETT  AND  FIELDING'S  WORKS.    Cheap  edition.    Any  one  sold  separately. 


_i 


